[Pramāṇa](https://indike.org/pramana/) › [Indian literature](https://indike.org/pramana/in) › [Dark Ages](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages) › [Mughals (1526–1857)](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.mughal) › [Jahāngīr (1605–1627)](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.mughal.jahangir) › [Tūzuk-i Jahāngīrī](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.mughal.jahangir.tuzuk-i-jahangiri) › [Dwazda-Sala-i Jahangiri; Waki’at Jahangiri, of the Emperor Jahangir (Elliot & Dowson, extracts)](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.mughal.jahangir.tuzuk-i-jahangiri~en-elliot-2) › 65 # The Memoirs of Jahāngīr (Jahāngīrnāma) 65: Journey to Kashmir. Dwázda-Sála-i Jahángírí; Wáki’át Jahángírí, of the Emperor Jahángír (Elliot & Dowson, extracts) 65 - **Language:** English ### Journey to Kashmir. ### [65.1](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.mughal.jahangir.tuzuk-i-jahangiri~en-elliot-2.65.1) On Tuesday, the the royal camp halted at Hasan Abdal. As an account of this road and a description of the stages have been already given in the narrative of my expedition to Kabul, I will not repeat them here; but from this place to Kashmir I will record all occurrences, stage by stage, please God! From the time of my disembarking from boats at Akbarpur up to reaching Hasan Abdal, I have travelled 178 kos during sixty-nine days, in fifty-eight marches and one halt. As there are at this place a fountain, a small cascade, and a basin filled with water of the most translucent clearness, I remained here two days. On Thursday, the 16th, I celebrated the lunar anniversary, and the fifty-second lunar year of my age commenced, in all gratitude to my Maker, and with every prospect of happiness. As the road I was going to take was full of hills and passes, ravines and ascents, and the royal party would have found it difficult to march all together, it was determined that the lady Maryamu-z Zamani, and the other begams should remain behind a few days, and come on at their ease afterwards; and the Prime Minister, I'timadu-d daula al-Khakani, Sadik Khan Bakhshi, and Sa’adat Khan Mir Saman, should also come on subsequently with the household and establishments. For the same reason Mirza Safawi and Khan-i ’Azam were sent on with a party of my attendants by way of Punch, and I myself went accompanied by only a few of my personal friends, and the servants who were absolutely necessary. ### [65.2](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.mughal.jahangir.tuzuk-i-jahangiri~en-elliot-2.65.2) On Friday I marched three kos and a half to Sultanpur. Here intelligence was received of Rana Amar Singh having died a natural death. Jagat Singh, his grandson, and Bhim, his son, who were in attendance upon me, were honoured with khil'ats, and it was ordered that Raja Kishan Das should convey to Kunwar Karan a farman conferring the title of Rana, with a khil'at and a horse from my own stables, and so do him honour, and congratulate him upon his succession. I heard from the people of this country that a noise like that of thunder fell upon the ear from a hill in the neighbourhood, though there might be at the time no sign of rain, or cloud, or lightning. They therefore call this hill Garaj. This sound is now to be heard every year, or certainly every two years. I have also heard this matter frequently mentioned in my father’s presence. As the story is a very strange one, I have recorded it, but God knows whether it is true. On Saturday, the 18th, I marched four kos and a half to Sahi. During this stage we entered the pargana of Hazara Farigh. On Sunday, the 19th, we encamped at Naushehra, after travelling three kos and three-quarters, where we entered Dhamtaur. As far as the eye could reach, the blossoms of the thal kamval and other flowers were glowing between the green foliage. It was a beautiful scene. ### [65.3](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.mughal.jahangir.tuzuk-i-jahangiri~en-elliot-2.65.3) On Monday, the 20th, after a march of three kos and a half, I arrived at Salhar, where Mahabat Khan presented jewels and inlaid arms to the value of 60,000 rupees. In this tract I saw a flower red and fiery, in the form of a gul khitmi (marsh-mallow), but smaller. So many flowers were blooming near one another, that it appeared to be all one flower. The tree is like that of the apricot. On the slope of this hill there were many wild violets, of exceeding fragrance, but their colour was paler than that of the usual variety. On Tuesday, the 21st, we travelled three kos, and encamped at Malgalli. On this day Mahabat Khan was despatched to his government at Bangash, and I gave him a khil'at, a postin, and an elephant from my private stables. During the whole march there was drizzling rain, and it rained also at night. Snow fell in the morning, and as the whole road was muddy and very slippery, the beasts which happened to be at all weak fell in every direction, and were not able to rise again. Twenty-five elephants belonging to the illustrious Government were lost upon the occasion. As the weather was very cloudy, I halted here for two days. On Thursday, the 23rd, Sultan Husain, the zamindar of Pakli (or Pakhali), obtained the honour of kissing the earth, for here we had entered Pakli. It is an extraordinary thing that, when my father was here, snow also fell as it did on this occasion; whereas for several years past there had been no fall, and rain also had been very scanty. ### [65.4](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.mughal.jahangir.tuzuk-i-jahangiri~en-elliot-2.65.4) On Friday, the 24th, I marched four kos to Tawadkar. There was much mud on this road also, and the whole way the plum and guava trees were in blossom, and the pine-trees also were ravishing to the sight. On Saturday, the 25th, I travelled over nearly three kos and a half to the neighbourhood of Pakli. On Sunday, the 26th, I mounted and rode down some partridges. Towards evening, at the request of Sultan Husain, I went to his residence, and honoured him much in the eyes of his compeers and friends. My father also visited him. He presented some horses, swords, hawks, and falcons. I accepted some of the birds, and returned the other things. ### [65.5](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.mughal.jahangir.tuzuk-i-jahangiri~en-elliot-2.65.5) Sarkar Pakli is thirty-five kos in length, by twenty-five in breadth. On the east it has the mountains of Kashmir, on the west Attock Benares, on the north Kator, on the south the country of the Ghakkars. It is said that when Timur was returning to Turan from the conquest of Hindustan, he left some of his followers here. The people themselves say they are by origin Farsis (?), but they cannot tell what was the name of their leader. They are now called Lahori, and their speech is that of the Jats. The same may be said of the people of Dhamtaur. In the time of my father Shah Rukh was the zamindar of Dhamtaur. His son Bahadur is now zamindar. Although the people of Pakli and Dhamtaur intermarry and communicate freely, yet they are always quarrelling, like other zamindars, about boundaries. These people have always been well affected towards our family. Sultan Mahmud, the father of Sultan Husain of Pakli, and Shah Rukh, both came to visit me before my accession. Notwithstanding that Sultan Husain is seventy years old, he is to all appearance strong; he can ride and take exercise. ### [65.6](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.mughal.jahangir.tuzuk-i-jahangiri~en-elliot-2.65.6) In this country bozah is prepared from bread and rice, which liquor the people call sir, but it is very much stronger than bozah. They drink nothing but sir with their food, and the oldest is considered to be the best; and when the ingredients are mixed, the people keep it tied up in jars for two or three years in their houses. They then take off the scum, and the liquor is called achi, which can be kept for ten years. If it is kept for a longer period, so much the better; but it should never be less than one year old. Sultan Mahmud used to take a cup of sir, and yet a mouthful is sufficient to create intoxication. Sultan Husain does the same. They brought the very first quality for my use. I took some by way of trial. I had taken some before. It is harsh and bitter to the taste; and it seems that they mix a little bhang in it. If you get drunk with it, it occasions drowsiness. If there were no such thing as wine, this might be used as a substitute. The fruits are apricots, peaches, and pears, but they are all sour and ill-flavoured. ### [65.7](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.mughal.jahangir.tuzuk-i-jahangiri~en-elliot-2.65.7) They make their houses and dwellings all of wood, after the manner of Kashmir. There is plenty of game here, as well as horses, mules, and horned cattle. Goats and fowls are abundant. The mules are rendered weak and useless, in consequence of the heavy loads which they have been made to carry. As it was reported that a few marches ahead the country was not sufficiently populous to supply food for my retinue, orders were issued to take only the few tents and establishments which were absolutely necessary, to diminish the number of elephants, and to take supplies sufficient for three or four days. A few attendants were selected to accompany me, and the rest were placed under the orders of Khwaja Abu-l Hasan Nakhshabi, to follow a few stages after me. Notwithstanding all my precautions and injunctions, it was found necessary to take with me 700 elephants even for the reduced tents and establishments. The mansab of Sultan Husain, which was 400 personal and 300 horse, was raised to 600 personal and 350 horse, and I gave him a khil'at, an ornamented dagger, and an elephant. Bahadur Dhamtauri, who stands appointed to Bangash, was raised to a mansab of 200 personal and 100 horse. ### [65.8](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.mughal.jahangir.tuzuk-i-jahangiri~en-elliot-2.65.8) On Sunday, the 29th, I marched five kos and a quarter, crossing the bridge and stream of Nain Sukh. This Nain Sukh flows from the north to the south, rising in the hills below the country of Badakhshan and Tibet. As in this place the river is divided into two branches, I ordered two wooden bridges to be made; one was eighteen yards long, and the other fourteen, and the breadth of each was five yards. The following is the mode of making a bridge in this country. Trees of sál are thrown over the river, and their two ends are lashed firmly to the rock; and across these thick planks are riveted strongly with nails and ropes. A bridge so made lasts for several years, with occasional repairs. The elephants were made to ford the stream, but horse and foot crossed over the bridge. It was Sultán Mahmúd who named this river Nain Sukh, which means “the eye’s repose.” ### [65.9](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.mughal.jahangir.tuzuk-i-jahangiri~en-elliot-2.65.9) On Thursday, the 3rd, after travelling nearly three kos and a half, we encamped on the bank of the Kishenganga. On this march we crossed an exceedingly high hill; the ascent was one kos, and the descent one and a half. They call it Pham Dirang, because in the Kashmírí tongue cotton is called pham, and as there were agents here, on account of the Kings of Kashmír, who levied duties on each load of cotton, and as delay or dirang occurred on this account, the place became known as Pham Dirang. After passing the bridge, we saw a cascade, of which the water was beautifully clear. Sitting down near it, I drank my usual cups of wine, and arrived in camp at eventide. There was an old bridge over this river fifty-four yards long, and one and a half broad, by which those on foot crossed. I ordered another bridge to be made near it, fifty-three yards long and three broad. As the stream was deep and rapid, I made the elephants pass over without their loads, but horse and foot crossed by the bridges. By orders of my father, a very strong saráí was built here of stone and mortar, on the top of a hill to the east of the river. ### [65.10](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.mughal.jahangir.tuzuk-i-jahangiri~en-elliot-2.65.10) As only one day remained before the Sun would enter a new sign, I sent on Mu’tamad Khán to select a high and conspicuous spot on which to erect my throne, and make preparations for the festival of the New Year. It so happened that a little beyond the bridge, on the eastern bank of the river, there was an eminence—a charming green spot, on the top of which there was a level surface of fifty yards, just as if the executors of the decrees of God had designed it for such an occasion. It was there that Mu’tamad Khán set up the decorations for the festival, and managed all so admirably as to call forth my praises and acknowledgments. The river Kishenganga flows from the north towards the south. The river Behat, flowing from the east, falls into the Kishenganga, taking a northerly course. --- Source: [https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.mughal.jahangir.tuzuk-i-jahangiri~en-elliot-2.65](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.mughal.jahangir.tuzuk-i-jahangiri~en-elliot-2.65) · Pramāṇa