[Pramāṇa](https://indike.org/pramana/) › [Indian literature](https://indike.org/pramana/in) › [Dark Ages](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages) › [Travellers (1500–1858)](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel) › [Histoire de la dernière révolution des États du Grand Mogol](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier) › [Travels in the Mogul Empire (Constable)](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable) › 19 # Travels in the Mogul Empire (Bernier) 19: An accurate description of the Kingdom of Kachemire, the present state of the surrounding Mountains, and replies to five important questions put by a Friend. Travels in the Mogul Empire (Constable) 19 - **Language:** English ## Contents - [19.1](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.1) — 8 parts - [19.2](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.2) — 7 parts - [19.3](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.3) — 7 parts - [19.4](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.4) — 7 parts - [19.5](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.5) — 8 parts - [19.6](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.6) — 9 parts ### An accurate description of the Kingdom of Kachemire, the present state of the surrounding Mountains, and replies to five important questions put by a Friend. ### [19.1.1](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.1.1) MONSIEUR, The histories of the ancient Kings of Kachemire maintain that the whole of this country was in former times one vast lake, and that an outlet for the waters was opened by a certain pire, or aged saint, named Kacheb, who miraculously cut the mountain of Baramoule. This account is to be met with in the abridgment of the above-mentioned histories, made by order of Jehan-Guyre, which I am now translating from the Persian, I am certainly not disposed to deny that this region was once covered with water: the same thing is reported of Thessaly and of other countries; but I cannot easily persuade myself that the opening in question was the work of man, for the mountain is very extensive and very lofty. I rather imagine that the mountain sank into some subterraneous cavern, which was disclosed by a violent earthquake, not uncommon in these countries. If we are to believe the Arabs of those parts, the opening of Bab-el-mandel was effected in the same manner; and it is thus that entire towns and mountains have been engulphed in great lakes. Kachemire, however, is no longer a lake, but a beautiful country, diversified with a great many low hills: about thirty leagues in length, and from ten to twelve in breadth. It is situated at the extremity of Hindoustan, to the north of Lahor; enclosed by the mountains at the foot of Caucasus, those of the Kings of Great Tibet and Little Tibet, and of the Raja Gamon, who are its most immediate neighbours. ### [19.1.2](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.1.2) The first mountains which surround it, I mean those nearest to the plains, are of moderate height, of the freshest verdure, decked with trees and covered with pasture land, on which cows, sheeps, goats, horses, and every kind of cattle is seen to graze. Game of various species is in great plenty, — partridges, hares, antelopes, and those animals which yield musk. Bees are also in vast abundance ; and what may be considered very extraordinary in the Indies, there are, with few or no exceptions, neither serpents, tigers, bears, nor lions. These mountains may indeed be characterised not only as innocuous, but as flowing in rich exuberance with milk and honey. Beyond the mountains just described arise others of very considerable altitude, whose summits, at all times covered with snow, soar above the clouds and ordinary mist, and, like Mount Olympus, are constantly bright and serene. ### [19.1.3](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.1.3) From the sides of all these mountains gush forth innumerable springs and streams of water, which are conducted by means of embanked earthen channels even to the top of the numerous hillocks in the valley ; thereby enabling the inhabitants to irrigate their fields of rice. These waters, after separating into a thousand rivulets and producing a thousand cascades through this charming country, at length collect and form a beautiful river, navigable for vessels as large as are borne on our Seine. It winds gently around the kingdom, and passing through the capital, bends its peaceful course toward Baramoule, where it finds an outlet between two steep rocks, being then joined by several smaller rivers from the mountains, and dashing over precipices it flows in the direction of Atek and joins the Indus. ### [19.1.4](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.1.4) The numberless streams which issue from the mountains maintain the valley and the hillocks in the most delightful verdure. The whole kingdom wears the appearance of a fertile and highly cultivated garden. Villages and hamlets are frequently seen through the luxuriant foliage. Meadows and vineyards, fields of rice, wheat, hemp, saffron, and many sorts of vegetables, among which are intermingled trenches filled with water, rivulets, canals, and several small lakes, vary the enchanting scene. The whole ground is enamelled with our European flowers and plants, and covered with our apple, pear, plum, apricot, and walnut trees, all bearing fruit in great abundance. The private gardens are full of melons, pateques or water melons, water parsnips, red beet, radishes, most of our potherbs, and others with which we are unacquainted. The fruit is certainly inferior to our own, nor is it in such variety; but this I am satisfied is not attributable to the soil, but merely to the comparative ignorance of the gardeners, for they do not understand the culture and the grafting of trees as we do in France. I have eaten, however, a great deal of very excellent fruit during my residence in Kachemire, and should entertain no doubt of its arriving at the same degree of perfection as that of Europe if the people were more attentive to the planting and soil of the trees and introduced grafts from foreign countries. ### [19.1.5](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.1.5) The capital of Kachemire bears the same name as the kingdom. It is without walls and is not less than three quarters of a league in length, and half a league in breadth. It is situated in a plain, distant about two leagues from the mountains, which seem to describe a semicircle, and is built on the banks of a fresh-water lake, whose circumference is from four to five leagues. This lake is formed of live springs and of streams descending from the mountains, and communicates with the river, which runs through the town, by means of a canal sufficiently large to admit boats. In the town there are two wooden bridges thrown over the river; and the houses, although for the most part of wood, are well built and consist of two or three stories. There is, however, plenty of very fine freestone in the country; some old buildings, and a great number of ancient idol-temples in ruins, are of stone; but wood is preferred on account of its cheapness, and the facility with which it is brought from the mountains by means of so many small rivers. Most of the houses along the banks of the river have little gardens, which produce a very pretty effect, especially in the spring and summer, when many parties of pleasure take place on the water. Indeed most houses in the city have also their gardens; and many have a canal, on which the owner keeps a pleasure-boat, thus communicating with the lake. ### [19.1.6](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.1.6) At one end of the town appears an isolated hill, with handsome houses on its declivity, each having a garden. Toward the summit are a Mosque and Hermitage, both good buildings; and the hill is crowned with a large quantity of fine trees. It forms altogether an agreeable object, and from its trees and gardens it is called, in the language of the country, Haryperbet, or the Verdant Mountain. Opposite to this hill is seen another, on which is also erected a small Mosque with a garden and an extremely ancient building, which bears evident marks of having been a temple for idols, although named Taci-Souliman, the Throne of Solomon. The Mahometans pretend it was raised by that celebrated King when he visited Kachemire ; but I doubt whether they could prove that this country was ever honoured with his presence. The lake is full of islands, which are so many pleasure-grounds. They look beautiful and green in the midst of the water, being covered with fruit trees, and laid out with regular trellised walks. In general they are surrounded by the large-leafed aspen, planted at intervals of two feet. The largest of these trees may be clasped in a man's arms, but they are as high as the mast of a ship, and have only a tuft of branches at the top, like the palm-trees. ### [19.1.7](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.1.7) The declivities of the mountains beyond the lake are crowded with houses and flower-gardens. The air is healthful, and the situation considered most desirable : they abound with springs and streams of water, and command a delightful view of the lake, the islands, and the town. The most beautiful of all these gardens is one belonging to the King, called Chah-Limar. The entrance from the lake is through a spacious canal, bordered with green turf, and running between two rows of poplars. Its length is about five hundred paces, and it leads to a large summer-house placed in the middle of the garden. A second canal, still finer than the first, then conducts you to another summer-house, at the end of the garden. This canal is paved with large blocks of freestone, and its sloping sides are covered with the same. In the middle is a long row of fountains, fifteen paces asunder; besides which there are here and there large circular basins, or reservoirs, out of which arise other fountains, formed into a variety of shapes and figures. ### [19.1.8](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.1.8) The summer-houses are placed in the midst of the canal, consequently surrounded by water, and between the two rows of large poplars planted on either side. They are built in the form of a dome, and encircled by a gallery, into which four doors open; two looking up, or down, the canal, and two leading to bridges that connect the buildings with both banks. The houses consist of a large room in the centre, and of four smaller apartments, one at each corner. The whole of the interior is painted and gilt, and on the walls of all the chambers are inscribed certain sentences, written in large and beautiful Persian characters. The four doors are extremely valuable; being composed of large stones, and supported by two beautiful pillars. The doors and pillars were found in some of the idol temples demolished by Chah-Jehan, and it is impossible to estimate their value. I cannot describe the nature of the stone, but it is far superior to porphyry, or any species of marble. ### [19.2.1](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.2.1) You have no doubt discovered before this time that I am charmed with Kachemire. In truth, the kingdom surpasses in beauty all that my warm imagination had anticipated. It is probably unequalled by any country of the same extent, and should be, as in former ages, the seat of sovereign authority, extending its dominion over all the circumjacent mountains, even as far as Tartary and over the whole of Hindoustan, to the island of Ceylon. It is not indeed without reason that the Mogols call Kachemire the terrestrial paradise of the Indies, or that Ekbar was so unremitting in his efforts to wrest the sceptre from the hand of its native Princes. His son Jehan-Guyre became so enamoured of this little kingdom as to make it the place of his favourite abode, and he often declared that he would rather be deprived of every other province of his mighty empire than lose Kachemire. I was quite prepared to witness the emulous contest between the Kachemiry and the Mogol poets. We were no sooner arrived than Aureng-Zebe received from the bards of both nations poems in praise of this favoured land, which he accepted and rewarded with kindness. They were written in a strain of extravagant hyperbole. One of them, I remember, speaking of the surrounding mountains, observed that their extraordinary height had caused the skies to retire into the vaulted form which we see; ### [19.2.2](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.2.2) that Nature had exhausted all her skill in the creation of this country, and rendered it inaccessible to the attack of hostile force; because, being the mistress of the kingdoms of the earth, it was wise to preserve her in perfect peace and security, that she might exercise universal dominion without the possibility of ever being subject to any. The poet went on to say that the summits of the higher and more distant mountains were clothed resplendently in white, and the minor and more contiguous preserved in perpetual verdure and embellished with stately trees, because it was meet that the mistress of the kingdoms of the earth should be crowned with a diadem whose top and rays were diamonds issuing from a base-work of emeralds. 'The poet' (I remarked to my Navaab Danechmend-kan, who wished me to relish these productions) 'might easily have amplified his subject. He could, with a pardonable licence, have included the neighbouring mountainous regions within the kingdom of Kachemire, since it is pretended that they were once tributary to it. I mean Little Tibet, the states of Raja Gamon, Kachguer, and Serenaguer. He might then have gone on to say that the Ganges, the Indus, the Chenau, and the Gemna, issue from the kingdom of Kachemire, rivers which cannot yield in beauty and importance to the Pison, the Gihon or the two other rivers spoken of in Genesis; ### [19.2.3](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.2.3) and that it may therefore be reasonably concluded that the Garden of Eden was planted in Kachemire, and not, according to the received opinion, in Armenia.' The Kachemirys are celebrated for wit, and considered much more intelligent and ingenious than the Indians. In poetry and the sciences they are not inferior to the Persians. They are also very active and industrious. The workmanship and beauty of their palekys, bedsteads, trunks, inkstands, boxes, spoons, and various other things are quite remarkable, and articles of their manufacture are in use in every part of the Indies. They perfectly understand the art of varnishing, and are eminently skilful in closely imitating the beautiful veins of a certain wood, by inlaying with gold threads so delicately wrought that I never saw anything more elegant or perfect. But what may be considered peculiar to Kachemire, and the staple commodity, that which particularly promotes the trade of the country and fills it with wealth, is the prodigious quantity of shawls which they manufacture, and which gives occupation even to the little children. These shawls are about an ell and a half long, and an ell broad, ornamented at both ends with a sort of embroidery, made in the loom, a foot in width. The Mogols and Indians, women as well as men, wear them in winter round their heads, passing them over the left shoulder as a mantle. ### [19.2.4](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.2.4) There are two sorts manufactured: one kind with the wool of the country, finer and more delicate than that of Spain; the other kind with the wool, or rather hair (called touz) found on the breast of a species of wild goat which inhabits Great Tibet. The tous shawls are much more esteemed than those made with the native wool. I have seen some, made purposely for the Omrahs, which cost one hundred and fifty roupies; but I cannot learn that the others have ever sold for more than fifty. They are very apt, however, to be worm-eaten, unless frequently unfolded and aired. The fur of the beaver is not so soft and fine as the hair from these goats. Great pains have been taken to manufacture similar shawls in Patna, Agra, and Lahor; but notwithstanding every possible care, they never have the delicate texture and softness of the Kachemire shawls, whose unrivalled excellence may be owing to certain properties in the water of that country. The superior colours of the Maslipatam chittes or cloths, painted by the hand \[peintes au pinceau\], au\], whose freshness seems to improve by washing, are also ascribed to the water peculiar to that town. The people of Kachemire are proverbial for their clear complexions and fine forms. They are as well made as Europeans, and their faces have neither the Tartar flat nose nor the small pig-eyes that distinguish the natives of Kacheguer, and which generally mark those of Great Tibet. The women especially are very handsome; ### [19.2.5](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.2.5) and it is from this country that nearly every individual, when first admitted to the court of the Great Mogol, selects wives or concubines, that his children may be whiter than the Indians and pass for genuine Mogols. Unquestionably there must be beautiful women among the higher classes, if we may judge by those of the lower orders seen in the streets and in the shops. When at Lahor I had recourse to a little artifice, often practised by the Mogols to obtain a sight of these hidden treasures; the women of that town being the finest brunettes in all the Indies, and justly renowned for their fine and slender shapes. I followed the steps of some elephants, particularly one richly harnessed, and was sure to be gratified with the sight I was in search of, because the ladies no sooner hear the tinkling of the silver bells suspended from both sides of the elephant than they all put their heads to the windows. This is a stratagem with which I often amused myself in Kachemire, until a more satisfactory method of seeing the fair sex was devised by an old pedagogue, well known in the town, with whom I read the Persian poets. I purchased a large quantity of sweetmeats, and accompanied him to more than fifteen houses, to which he had freedom of access. He pretended I was his kinsman lately arrived from Persia, rich and eager to marry. ### [19.2.6](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.2.6) As soon as we entered a house, he distributed my sweetmeats among the children, and then everybody was sure to flock around us, the married women and the single girls, young and old, with the two-fold object of being seen and receiving a share of the present. The indulgence of my curiosity drew many roupies out of my purse ; but it left no doubt on my mind that there are as handsome faces in Kachemire as in any part of Europe. It remains only to speak of my journey through the mountains, from Bember to this place, with which I ought perhaps to have commenced my letter ;— of the little excursions I have made in the country, and finally of all which it has been in my power to collect concerning the other mountainous tracts that encircle this kingdom. ### [19.2.7](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.2.7) In respect then to the route from Bember I was surprised to find myself on the very first night transported on a sudden from a torrid to a temperate zone : for we had no sooner scaled that frightful wall of the world, I mean the lofty, steep, black, and bare mountain of Bember, and begun the descent on the other side, than we breathed a pure, mild, and refreshing air. What surprised me still more was to find myself, as it were, transferred from the Indies to Europe ; the mountains we were traversing being covered with every one of our plants and shrubs, save the hyssop, thyme, marjoram, and rosemary. I almost imagined myself in the mountains of Auvergne, in a forest of fir, oak, elm, and plane trees, and could not avoid feeling strongly the contrast between this scene and the burning fields of Hindoustan, which I had just quitted and where nothing of the kind is seen. My attention was particularly arrested by a mountain, distant between one and two days from Bember, covered on both sides with plants. The side facing the south, that is, looking toward Hindoustan, is full of Indian and European plants, mingled together; but the side exposed to the north is crowded exclusively with the vegetable productions of Europe. It would seem that one side participates equally of the air and temperature of India and Europe, and that the other feels only the milder climate of the latter quarter of the globe. ### [19.3.1](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.3.1) I could not avoid admiring, in the course of our march, the successive generation and decay of trees. I saw hundreds plunged and plunging into abysses, down which man never ventured, piled dead one upon another and mouldering with time; while others were shooting out of the ground, and supplying the places of those that were no more. I observed also trees consumed by fire; but I am unable to say whether they were struck by lightning, or ignited by friction, when hot and impetuous winds agitate the trees against each other, or whether, as the natives pretend, trees when grown old and dry may ignite spontaneously. The magnificent cascades between the rocks increase the beauty of the scene. There is one especially which I conceive has not its parallel. I observed it at a distance from the side of a high mountain. A torrent of water rolling impetuously through a long and gloomy channel, covered with trees, precipitates itself suddenly down a perpendicular rock of prodigious height, and the ear is stunned with the noise occasioned by the falling of these mighty waters. Jehan-Guyre erected on an adjacent rock, which was smoothed for the purpose, a large building from which the court might leisurely contemplate this stupendous work of Nature, which, as well as the trees before mentioned, bears marks of the highest antiquity, and is perhaps coeval with the creation of the world. A strange accident cast a gloom over these scenes and damped all our pleasure. ### [19.3.2](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.3.2) The King was ascending the Pire-penjale mountains, the highest of all the mountains, and from which a distant view of the kingdom of Kachemire is first obtained. He was followed by a long line of elephants, upon which sat the ladies in their mikdembers and embarys. The foremost, appalled, as is supposed, by the great length and acclivity of the path before him, stepped back upon the elephant that was moving on his track, who again pushed against the third elephant, the third against the fourth, and so on until fifteen of them, incapable of turning round or extricating themselves in a road so steep and narrow fell down the precipice. Happily for the women, the place where they fell was of no great height; only three or four were killed; but there were no means of saving any of the elephants. Whenever these animals fall under the tremendous burden usually placed upon their backs, they never rise again even on a good road. Two days afterward we passed that way, and I observed that some of the poor elephants still moved their trunks. The army, which had been marching four days in single file through the mountains, was subjected to serious inconvenience by this disaster. The remainder of the day and the following night, were employed in rescuing the women and in saving other matters, and the troops were under the necessity of halting during the whole of that time. ### [19.3.3](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.3.3) Nearly every man continued pent up in the same spot, for it was impossible, in many places, to advance or recede, and the thieving varlets of porters with the tents and provisions were not within reach. My usual good fortune, however, attended me; I contrived to clamber out of the line of march and find a spot whereon I and my horse slept pretty comfortably. The servant who followed me had a small quantity of bread, which we shared. It was here, I recollect, that in stirring some stones, we found a large black scorpion, which a young Mogol of my acquaintance took up and squeezed in his hand, then in the hand of my servant, and lastly in mine, without any of us being stung. This young cavalier pretended that he had charmed the scorpion, as he had charmed many others, with a passage from the Koran; 'but I will not,' added he, 'teach you that passage, because the occult power would then depart from me and rest with you, in the same manner as it left my teacher the moment he imparted the secret.' ### [19.3.4](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.3.4) While traversing this same mountain of Pire-penjale, where the elephants tumbled down, three things recalled my old philosophical speculations. The first was that we experienced the opposite seasons of summer and winter within the same hour. In ascending we were exposed to the intense heat of the sun, and perspired most profusely; but when we reached the summit, we found ourselves in the midst of frozen snow, through which a passage for the army had been recently cut; a small and congealed rain was falling, and the wind blew piercingly cold. The poor Indians, most of whom had never felt the severity of winter, and saw for the first time ice and snow, were in a state of great suffering and astonishment and fled with precipitation. The second circumstance was, that within two hundred paces the wind blew from two opposite quarters. While climbing toward the summit it blew in my face, that is, from the north; but I no sooner began to descend on the other side than it blew on my back, that is, from the south; as if the vapours escaping from all sides, and rising to the summit of the mountain, had there condensed, and caused the wind; which, equally attracted by the warm exhausted air below, descended into the two opposite valleys. ### [19.3.5](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.3.5) The third extraordinary appearance was an aged hermit, who had resided on the top of this mountain ever since the time of Jehan-Guyre. Of his religion everybody was ignorant; but it was said that he wrought miracles, caused strange thunders, and raised storms of wind, hail, snow, and rain. His white and uncombed beard was extremely long and bushy; he had somewhat of the savage in his aspect, and was haughty in his manner of asking alms. He permitted the people to drink water out of some earthen cups placed in rows on a large stone, making signs with his hand that they should not stop, but hastily leave the summit of the mountain. The old man was also very angry with those who made a noise. After I had entered his cave, and softened his countenance by means of half a roupie, which I humbly put in his hand, he informed me that noise made there stirred up the most furious tempests imaginable. It was wise in Aureng-Zebe, he added, to be guided by his advice, and to order the army to pass with stillness and expedition. His father, Chah-Jehan, always acted with the same prudence; but Jehan-Guyre having upon one occasion derided his counsel, and, notwithstanding his earnest remonstrance, having ordered the cymbals to be beaten and the trumpets to be sounded, narrowly escaped destruction. ### [19.3.6](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.3.6) In regard to my excursions in different parts of this kingdom, I shall begin by informing you that we no sooner arrived in the city of Kachemire than my Navaab, Danechmend-kan, sent me to the further end of the country, three short journeys from the capital, that I might witness the 'wonders,' as they are called, of a certain fountain. I was accompanied by a native, and escorted by one of my Navaab's troopers. The 'wonders' consist in this: in the month of May, when the melting of the snows has just taken place, this fountain, during the space of fifteen days, regularly flows and ebbs three times a day, — when the morning dawns, at noon, and at night. Its flow generally continues three quarters of an hour, and is sufficiently abundant to fill a square reservoir ten or twelve feet deep, and as many in length and breadth. After a lapse of fifteen days, the supply of water becomes less copious and regular, and at the expiration of a month the spring ceases to run, unless in the time of heavy and incessant rains, when it runs with the ebb and flow of other fountains. The Gentiles have a small temple on the side of the reservoir dedicated to Brare, one of their deities; and hence this spring is called Send-brary, or water of Brare. Pilgrims flock from all parts to this temple, for the purpose of bathing and purifying themselves in the sacred and miraculous water. ### [19.3.7](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.3.7) Numberless fables are founded on the origin of this fountain, which, not having a shadow of truth, would be little entertaining in the recital. The five or six days that I remained in the vicinity of Send-brary were employed in endeavours to trace the cause of the 'wonder.' I paid considerable attention to the situation of the mountain, at whose foot is found this supernatural spring. With much labour and difficulty I reached the top, leaving no part unexplored, searching and prying at every step. I remarked that its length extends from north to south, and that though very near to other mountains, yet it is completely detached from any. Its form resembles an ass's back; the summit is of extreme length, but the greatest breadth is scarcely one hundred paces. One side of the mountain, which is covered with nothing but green grass, has an eastern aspect; but the sun, being intercepted by the opposite mountains, does not shine upon it before eight o'clock in the morning. The western side is covered with trees and bushes. ### [19.4.1](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.4.1) Having made these observations, it occurred to me that this pretended wonder might be accounted for by the heat of the sun, combined with the peculiar situation and internal disposition of the mountain. I supposed that the frozen waters, which during the winter, when the whole ground is covered with snow, had penetrated into the inner parts of that portion of the mountain exposed to the morning sun, became partially melted, that these waters running down, little by little, into certain beds of live rock, and being thence conveyed toward the spring, produced the flow at noon; that the sun quitting this part of the mountain (which then becomes cool) darts its vertical beams upon the summit, melting the congealed waters, which descend also by slow degrees, but through different channels, into the same beds of live rock, and are the cause of the flow at night; and finally, that the sun heating the western side of the mountain, similar effects are occasioned, and the morning flow is the consequence. That this last is slower than the others may be accounted for by the remoteness of the western side from the spring, by its being covered with wood, and therefore more sheltered from the sun, or simply by the coldness of the night. ### [19.4.2](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.4.2) My reasoning may derive support from the fact of the water flowing most copiously during the first days, and that having gradually diminished in quantity it ceases to run altogether: as if the waters which had remained frozen in the earth were in greater plenty at the commencement than afterwards. It may be observed too, that even at the beginning the supply of water as to the quantity is very uncertain, and that the flow is sometimes greater at noon than at night or in the morning, or in the morning greater than at noon ; because, as I conceive, some days are hotter than others, and because clouds, sometimes rendering the heat unequal, thus become the cause of inequality in the flow of water. ### [19.4.3](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.4.3) Returning from Send-brary, I turned a little from the high road for the sake of visiting Achiavel, a country house formerly of the Kings of Kachemire and now of the Great Mogol. What principally constitutes the beauty of this place is a fountain, whose waters disperse themselves into a hundred canals round the house, which is no means unseemly, and throughout the gardens. The spring gushes out of the earth with violence, as if it issued from the bottom of some well, and the water is so abundant that it ought rather to be called a river than a fountain. It is excellent water, and cold as ice. The garden is very handsome, laid out in regular walks, and full of fruit-trees, — apple, pear, plum, apricot, and cherry. Jets-d'eau in various forms and fish-ponds are in great number, and there is a lofty cascade which in its fall takes the form and colour of a large sheet, thirty or forty paces in length, producing the finest effect imaginable ; especially at night, when innumerable lamps, fixed in parts of the wall adapted for that purpose, are lighted under this sheet of water. From Achiavel I proceeded to another royal garden, embellished much in the same manner. One of its ponds contains fish so tame that they approach upon being called, or when pieces of bread are thrown into the water. The largest have gold rings, with inscriptions, through the gills, placed there, it is said, by the celebrated Nour-Mehale, the wife of Jehan-Guyre, grandfather to Aureng-Zebe. ### [19.4.4](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.4.4) Danechmend-kan seemed well satisfied with the account I brought of Send-brary, and wished me to undertake another journey, that I might bear my testimony to what he called a real miracle \[miracle assuré\], such a miracle as would induce me to renounce my religion and become a Musulman. 'Hasten to Baramoulay,' said he; 'the distance is not greater than to Send-brary: there you will see a Mosque which contains the tomb of a celebrated Pire, or Holy Derwiche, who though dead yet miraculously cures the sick and infirm. Perhaps you may deny the reality either of the disease or of the cure; but another miracle is wrought by the power of this holy man, which no person can see without acknowledging. There is a large round stone that the strongest man can scarcely raise from the ground, but which eleven men, after a prayer made to the saint, lift up with the tips of their eleven fingers with the same ease as they would move a piece of straw.' I was not sorry for another little excursion, and set out with both my former companions, the trooper and the native of the country. I found Baramoulay a rather pleasant place; the Mosque is a tolerable building and the Saint's tomb is richly adorned. It was surrounded with a great number of people, engaged in acts of devotion, who said they were ill. Adjoining the Mosque is a kitchen, wherein I observed large boilers filled with meat and rice, which I conceived at once to be the magnet that draws the sick, and the miracle that cures them. ### [19.4.5](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.4.5) On the other side of the mosque are the apartments and garden of the Mullahs, who pursue the even tenor of their way under the shadow of the Pires miraculous sanctity. They are sufficiently zealous in celebrating his praises, but as I am always unhappy on similar occasions, he performed no miracle upon the sick while I remained there. As to the round and heavy stone that was to convert me, I noticed that eleven Mullahs formed themselves into a circle round it, but what with their long cabayes or vests, and the studied compactness of the circle, I had great difficulty to see the mode in which they held the stone. I watched narrowly, however, the whole of this cheating process, and although the Mullahs stoutly maintained that each person used only the tip of one finger, and that the stone felt as light as a feather, yet I could clearly discover that it was not raised from the ground without a great effort, and it seemed to me that the Mullahs made use of the thumb as well as of the forefinger. Still I mixed my voice with the cries of these impostors and bystanders, exclaiming Karamet ! Karamet ! — a miracle ! a miracle ! I then presented them with a roupie, and assuming a look of the deepest devotion, entreated that I might have for once the distinguished honour of being among the eleven who lifted the stone. ### [19.4.6](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.4.6) The Mullahs were reluctant to comply with my request, but having presented them with a second roupie, and expressed my belief in the truth of the miracle, one of them gave up his place to me. No doubt they hoped that ten would be able, by an extraordinary effort, to lift the stone, although I contributed no other aid than the tip of my finger, and they expected to manage so adroitly that I should not discover the imposture. But they were much mortified to find that the stone, to which I persevered in applying the end of my finger only, was constantly inclining and falling towards me. I considered it prudent at last to hold it firmly with both my finger and thumb, when we succeeded, but with great difficulty, in raising it to the usual height. Observing that every person looked at me with an evil eye, not knowing what to think of me, and that I incurred the danger of being stoned, I continued to join in the cry of Karamet! and throwing down a third roupie, stole away from the crowd. Though I had taken no refreshment since my arrival, I did not hesitate to mount my horse directly, and to quit for ever the Derviche and his miracles. I availed myself of this opportunity to visit those celebrated rocks that form the outlet of all the waters of the kingdom, and to which I alluded at the commencement of this letter. ### [19.4.7](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.4.7) I was induced to quit the high road for the sake of approaching a large lake that I saw at some distance. It is well stocked with fish, particularly eels, and covered with ducks, wild geese, and many other water-birds. The Governor comes hither in the winter, when these birds are in greatest plenty, to enjoy the sport of fowling. In the centre of the lake is an hermitage, with its little garden, which it is pretended floats miraculously upon the water. The hermit passes the whole of his life there; he never leaves the place. I shall not fill up this letter by recounting the thousand absurd tales reported of this hermitage, except it be the tradition that one of the ancient Kings of Kachemire, out of mere fancy, built it upon a number of thick beams fastened together. The river which runs toward Baramoulay passes through the middle of this lake. ### [19.5.1](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.5.1) Leaving this lake, I went in search of a spring, considered an object of curiosity. It bubbles gently and rises with some force, bringing with it a certain quantity of very fine sand, which returns the way it came; after which the water becomes still a moment or two without ebullition and without bringing up sand, and then bubbles as before. May this edifice be as firm as the foundations of the heavens, May it be the most renowned ornament of the universe, As long as the Monarch Zayn Ibad holds festival therein May it be like the date of his own reign, — 'happy.' The numerical value of the letters in khurram (happy) is 847, which is the year of the Hijra it is intended to record, equivalent to A.D. 1443, 1444, during which Zayn-ul-Abidin (the Zayn Ibad of the inscription, for both have the same meaning, viz., Ornament of the Adorers) ruled in Kashmir. ### [19.5.2](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.5.2) According to tradition, in the vicinity of the Wular Lake once stood a city of which the Raja was Sudrasen. By reason of the enormity of his crimes the waters of the lake rose and drowned him and his subjects. It was said that during the winter months, at low water, the ruins of a submerged idol-temple might be seen rising from the lake. Zayn-ul-Abidin constructed a spacious barge, which he sank in the lake, and upon which he laid a foundation of bricks and stones till it rose high enough to be level with the water. Upon this he erected a mosque and other buildings, and gave the islet the name of Lanka. The expense of the work was defrayed by the fortunate discovery of two idols of solid gold which had been brought up from the lake by divers. On the completion of Lanka the King ordered a great festival to be held, wherein large sums were distributed among the poor. Verses were written by the poets to commemorate this event, and among these the inscription under notice by Ahmad Allamah, Kashmiri, was engraved upon a stone and placed on the mosque. See pp. 54, 55, Proc. As. Soc. Bengal for 1880; also pp. 16-20 Jour. As. Soc. Bengal, Part I. 1880, Notes on an inscription found upon a stone lying near the ruins of a Masjid on Lanka Island, Wular Lake, Kashmir, By Major H. S. Jarrett, B.S.C. ### [19.5.3](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.5.3) Al-Badaoni alludes to the Lanka island in his Muntakhab-ut-Tawarikh as follows: 'Sultan Zain-ul-'Abidin, whose history has been written succinctly in my abridgment of the history of Kashmir' (see p. 393, footnote \*) 'had sijarib of stones thrown into the water' \[of the Lake\], 'and built thereon a stone throne so lofty and grand that the like of it has not been seen in all the provinces of India.'—P. 398, Ed. Bib. Indica As. Soc. Bengal, 1889. and with the same effect ; thus continuing its motion at irregular intervals. But the wonder, they say, consists in this, that the least noise made, either by speaking or knocking the feet against the ground, agitates the water and causes it to run and bubble in the manner described. I discovered, however, that its movements are influenced neither by speaking nor knocking, and that its action is the same whether you make a noise or are silent. As to the real cause of the water rising in this manner, I have not reflected sufficiently upon the subject to give you a satisfactory solution ; unless it be that the sand by returning continues to obstruct the narrow channel of this small and weak spring, until the water thus opposed and closed in makes an effort to raise the sand and open a passage ; or it may rather be, that the wind pent in the channel of the spring rises at intervals, as is the case in artificial springs. ### [19.5.4](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.5.4) When we had sufficiently examined this fountain, we ascended the mountains, for the purpose of seeing an extensive lake, in which there is ice, even in summer, which the winds heap up and disperse, as in a frozen sea. We then passed through a place called Sengsafed, that is to say, Whitestone, remarkable for producing in summer every kind of flower, the same as in a well-stored garden; and for a circumstance said to have been observed from time immemorial, that when many persons visit this spot and make much noise and agitate the air, a heavy shower of rain invariably descends. Whether this be generally the case or not, there can be no doubt that a few years ago, when Sengsafed was visited by Chah-Jehan, the whole party was in danger of perishing in consequence of the violent and extraordinary rains which fell, although he had issued orders that no unnecessary noise should be made. This fact will remind you of the aged hermit's conversation with me on the summit of Pire-penjale. I was pursuing my journey to a grotto full of wonderful congelations, two days' journey from Sengsafed, when I received intelligence that my Navaab felt very impatient and uneasy on account of my long absence. ### [19.5.5](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.5.5) I regret that I can give you only imperfect and scanty information concerning the surrounding mountains. The subject has much occupied my thoughts since my arrival in this country; but I can meet with no congenial mind, with no person of observation and research, who possesses much knowledge of the matters about which I wish to be informed. What I have learnt I shall, however, communicate. ### [19.5.6](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.5.6) The merchants who every year travel from mountain to mountain to collect the fine wool with which shawls are manufactured, all agree in saying that between all the mountains still dependent upon Kachemire there are many fine stretches of country. Among these tracts there is one whose annual tribute is paid in leather and wool, and whose women are proverbial for beauty, chastity, and industry. Beyond this tract is another whose valleys are delightful and plains fertile, abounding in corn, rice, apples, pears, apricots, excellent melons, and even grapes, with which good wine is made. The tribute of this tract is likewise paid in wool and leather, and it sometimes happens that the inhabitants, trusting to the inaccessible nature of the country, refuse payment; but troops always contrive to penetrate, and reduce the people to submission. I learn also from the merchants, that in the more distant mountains, which have ceased to be tributary to Kachemire, there are other beautiful tracts and countries, where the inhabitants are white and well-formed, and remarkable for their attachment to their native land, which they seldom quit. Some of these people have no King, nor even, as far as can be discovered, any religion; though certain tribes abstain from fish, and consider it unclean. ### [19.5.7](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.5.7) I shall add what was related to me a few days ago by a fine old fellow, who married a descendant of the ancient kings of Kachemire. At the period when Jehan-Guyre was making a diligent search after all persons connected with the royal family, this old man effected his escape to the mountains last mentioned, accompanied by three domestics, scarcely knowing whither he was going. Wandering from place to place, he found himself at length in the midst of a small but beautiful district, where he was no sooner known than he experienced a cordial reception. The happy man was laden with presents, and in the evening the handsomest girls were presented by their parents, and he was entreated to make his choice from them, that the country might be honoured with his offspring. My friend proceeded to another district in the vicinity and was received with equal kindness and respect: the evening ceremony was different, however, in one particular; as the husbands brought their wives, not the fathers their daughters; observing that their neighbours were simpletons in having supplied him with the latter, because the children might not continue in their household, but must follow the footsteps of the daughters' future husbands. ### [19.5.8](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.5.8) Some few years since there existed great dissensions in the royal family of Little Tibet, a country bordering on Kachemire. One of the pretenders to the crown having applied secretly to the Governor of this kingdom for assistance, the latter was commanded by Chah-Jehan to afford all the succour he might need. The Governor accordingly invaded Little Tibet, slew or put to flight the other competitors, and left this prince in undisputed possession of the throne, subject to an annual tribute of crystal, musk, and wool. Thus circumstanced, this petty King has not well been able to avoid paying his personal obeisance to Aureng-Zebe, bringing with him some of these articles as presents; but he is come with so wretched a retinue that I should never have taken him for a person of distinguished rank. My Navaab invited this personage to dinner, hoping to obtain some information concerning those mountainous regions. He informed us that his kingdom was bounded on the east by Great Tibet; that it was thirty or forty leagues in breadth; that he was very poor, notwithstanding the crystal, musk, and wool, which he had in small quantities; and that the opinion generally entertained of his possessing gold mines was quite erroneous. ### [19.6.1](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.6.1) 'The country, in certain parts,' he added, 'produces excellent fruit, particularly melons, but the winters are most severe, because of the deep snows.' The inhabitants heretofore were Gentiles, but the great majority have become Mahometan, as well as himself; of the sect of the Chias, which is that of all Persia. He spoke also of the attempt made by Chah-Jehan, seventeen or eighteen years ago, to conquer Great Tibet, a country frequently invaded by the Kings of Kachemire. The army, after a difficult march of sixteen days through the mountains, besieged and took a fortress, which threw the inhabitants into such consternation that the conquest of the kingdom would no doubt have been completed if the army had immediately crossed a certain celebrated and rapid river, and marched boldly to the capital city. The season, however, was advanced, and the governor of Kachemire, who commanded the troops, apprehending he might be overtaken by the snow, determined to retreat. He placed a garrison in the fortress just captured, intending to resume the invasion of the country early in the spring; but that garrison most strangely and unexpectedly evacuated the castle, either through fear of the enemy, or from want of provisions, and Great Tibet escaped the meditated attack that had been deferred to the next spring. That kingdom being threatened with war by Aureng-Zebe, the King despatched an ambassador when informed of the Mogol's arrival in Kachemire. ### [19.6.2](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.6.2) The embassy was accompanied by various presents, the productions of the country; such as crystal, musk, a piece of jade, and those valuable white tails taken from a species of cow peculiar to Great Tibet, which are attached by way of ornament to the ears of elephants. The jade stone presented upon this occasion was of an extraordinary size, and therefore very precious. ### [19.6.3](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.6.3) Jacheti is in great estimation in the court of the Mogol: its colour is greenish, with white veins, and it is so hard as to be wrought only with diamond powder. Cups and vases are made of this stone. I have some of most exquisite workmanship, inlaid with strings of gold, and enriched with precious stones. The ambassador's train consisted of three or four cavaliers, and ten or twelve tall men, dried-up looking and lean, with very scanty beards like the Chinese, and common red caps, such as our seamen wear. The remainder of the apparel was worthy of their head-gear. I rather think that four or five of these gentlemen wore swords, but the others followed the ambassador without staves or sticks. He entered into a negotiation with Aureng-Zebe, and promised on the part of his master that a mosque should be built in the capital, wherein prayers in the Mahometan form should be offered; that the coin should bear on one side the impress of Aureng-Zebe; and that the Mogol should receive an annual tribute. But no person doubts that this treaty will be totally disregarded as soon as Aureng-Zebe has quitted Kachemire, and that the King of Great Tibet will no more fulfil its stipulations than he did those of the treaty concluded between him and Chah-Jehan. There was in the suite of the ambassador a physician, said to be from the kingdom of Lassa, and of the Lamy or Lama tribe; ### [19.6.4](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.6.4) a tribe which is the depositary of the law in Lassa as that of the Brehmens is in the Indies, with this difference, that the Brehmens of the Indies have no Calife or Pontiff, which these people have, who is not only recognised as such in the kingdom of Lassa, but throughout all Tartary, and is honoured and reverenced as a divine personage. The physician had a book of receipts which I could not persuade him to sell; the writing at a distance looked something like ours. We induced him to write down the alphabet, but he did this with so much difficulty, and his writing was so wretchedly bad in comparison with that in his book, that we pronounced him an ignoramus. He was an ardent believer in metempsychosis, and entertained us with wonderful tales. Among others, he mentioned that when his Grand Lama was very old and on the point of death, he assembled the council, and declared to them that his soul was going to pass into the body of an infant recently born. The child was nourished with tender care; and when he had attained his sixth or seventh year, a large quantity of household furniture and wearing apparel was placed before him, mixed up with his own, and he had the sagacity to discern which part was his own property, and which was not; a decisive proof, the physician observed, how true is the doctrine of the transmigration of souls. At first I thought the man was speaking in irony, but I soon discovered that he was perfectly serious. ### [19.6.5](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19.6.5) One day I went to see him at the ambassador's, taking a Kachemirian merchant acquainted with the language of Tibet with me as an interpreter, on the pretence that I desired to purchase certain stuffs which he had for sale, a species of felt about a foot wide; but the real object of the visit was to obtain information concerning those imperfectly known regions. But I learnt little or nothing new; he only said generally that Great Tibet would bear no comparison with his own country; that the latter was covered with snow more than five months in the year, and that it was frequently engaged in war with the Tartars; but which Tartars these were he could not say. At length I found that the time passed with this man was misspent, for he was incapable of answering any one of the numerous questions I intended to ask. _First 42 of 53 passages. [Read on](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19)_ --- Source: [https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.19) · Pramāṇa