[Pramāṇa](https://indike.org/pramana/) › [Indian literature](https://indike.org/pramana/in) › [Dark Ages](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages) › [Travellers (1500–1858)](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel) › [Histoire de la dernière révolution des États du Grand Mogol](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier) › [Travels in the Mogul Empire (Constable)](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable) › 9.3 # Travels in the Mogul Empire (Bernier) 9.3 Travels in the Mogul Empire (Constable) 9.3 - **Language:** English ### [9.3.1](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.9.3.1) But the greatest annoyance is perhaps in the evening when business calls you to any distance. This is the time when the common people cook their victuals with a fire made of cow and camel dung and green wood. The smoke of so many fires of this kind, when there is little wind, is highly offensive, and involves the atmosphere in total darkness. It was my fate to be overtaken three or four times by this wide-spreading vapour. I inquired, but could not find my way : I turned and roamed about, ignorant whither I went. Once I was obliged to stop until the smoke dispersed, and the moon arose; and at another time I with difficulty reached the aguacy-die, at the foot of which I passed the night with my horse and servant. The aguacy-dié resembles a lofty mast of a ship, but is very slender, and takes down in three pieces. It is fixed toward the King's quarters, near the tent called nagar-kané, and during the night has a lighted lantern suspended from the top. This light is very useful, for it may be seen when every object is enveloped in impenetrable darkness. To this spot persons who lose their way resort, either to pass the night secure from all danger of robbers, or to resume their search after their own lodgings. The name aguacy-dié may be translated Light of Heaven, the lantern when at a distance appearing like a star. ### [9.3.2](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.9.3.2) To prevent robberies every Omrah provides watchmen, who continually perambulate his particular quarters during the night, crying out Kaber-dar! or, Have a care! and there are guards posted round the whole army at every five hundred paces, who kindle fires, and also cry out Kaber-dar! Besides these precautions, the Cotoual, or Grand Provost, sends soldiers in every direction, who especially pervade the bazars, crying out and sounding a trumpet. Notwithstanding all these measures, robberies are often committed, and it is prudent to be always on the alert; not to rely too much on the vigilance of servants; and to repose at an early hour, so as to watch during the remainder of the night. I will now proceed to describe the different modes of travelling adopted by the Great Mogol on these occasions. ### [9.3.3](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.9.3.3) Most commonly he is carried on men's shoulders in a tact-ravan, or field throne, wherein he sits. This tact is a species of magnificent tabernacle, with painted and gilt pillars and glass windows, that are kept shut when the weather is bad. The four poles of this litter are covered either with scarlet or brocade, and decorated with deep fringes of silk and gold. At the end of each pole are stationed two strong and handsomely dressed men, who are relieved by eight other men constantly in attendance. Sometimes the King rides on horseback, especially when the weather is favourable for hunting ; and at other times he is carried by an elephant in a mikdember, or in a hauze, which is by far the most striking and splendid style of travelling, as nothing can surpass the richness and magnificence of the harness and trappings. The mikdember is a small house, or square wooden tower, gilt and painted ; and the hauze, an oval chair with a canopy on pillars, also superbly decorated with colours and gold. ### [9.3.4](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.9.3.4) In every march the King is accompanied by a great number of Omrahs and Rajas, who follow him closely on horseback, placing themselves promiscuously in a body, without much method or regularity. On the morning of a journey, they assemble at break of day in the Am-kas, with the exception of those who may be exempted by age or the nature of their office. They find these marches very fatiguing, especially on hunting-days, being exposed like a private soldier to the sun and dust, frequently until three o'clock in the afternoon. These luxurious lords move along very differently when not in the train of the King : neither dust nor sun then annoys them, but they are stretched, as on a bed, in a paleky, closed and covered or not as may be found more agreeable; sleeping at ease until they reach their tent, where they are sure to find an excellent dinner, the kitchen and every necessary article having been sent forward the preceding night, immediately after supper. The Omrahs are always surrounded by a number of well-mounted cavaliers, called gourze-berdars, because they carry a kind of club, or silver mace. The King is also attended by many of them, who go before him, both on the right and on the left, together with a multitude of footmen. The gourze-berdars are picked, good-looking men, of fine figures, and are employed to convey orders and despatches. With great sticks in their hands they drive everybody before them, and keep the way clear for the King. ### [9.3.5](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.9.3.5) The Cours follow the Rajahs surrounded by a large number of players on cymbals and trumpets. The Cours, as I before observed, consists of figures in silver, representing strange animals, hands, balances, fishes and other mystical objects, borne at the end of large silver poles. A numerous body of Mansebdars or inferior Omrahs comes next, well mounted, and equipped with sword, quiver, and arrows. This body is much more numerous than that of Omrahs, which follows the King ; because not only the Mansebdars who are on duty are obliged to assemble at break of day near the royal tent, for the purpose of accompanying the King, but there are many who join the train in the hope of attracting notice and obtaining preferment. ### [9.3.6](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.9.3.6) The Princesses and great ladies of the Seraglio have also different modes of travelling. Some prefer tchaudoules, which are borne on men's shoulders, and are not unlike the tact-ravans. They are gilt and painted and covered with magnificent silk nets of many colours, enriched with embroidery, fringes, and beautiful tassels. Others travel in a stately and close paleky, gilt and covered, over which are also expanded similar silk nets. Some again use capacious litters, suspended between two powerful camels, or between two small elephants. It is in this style I have sometimes seen Rauchenara-Begum pursuing her journey, and have observed more than once in front of the litter, which was open, a young, well-dressed female slave, with a peacock's tail in her hand, brushing away the dust, and keeping off the flies from the Princess. The ladies are not unfrequently carried on the backs of elephants, which upon these occasions wear massive bells of silver, and are decked with costly trappings, curiously embroidered. These lovely and distinguished females, seated in Mikdembers, are thus elevated above the earth, like so many superior beings borne along through the middle region of the air. Each Mikdember contains eight women, four on a side: it is latticed and covered with a silken net, and yields not in richness and splendour to the tchaudmle or the tact-ravan, ### [9.3.7](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.9.3.7) I cannot avoid dwelling on this pompous procession of the Seraglio, It strongly arrested my attention during the late march, and I feel delight in recalling it to my memory. Stretch imagination to its utmost limits, and you can conceive no exhibition more grand and imposing than when Rauchenara-Begum, mounted on a stupendous Pegu elephant, and seated in a Mikdember, blazing with gold and azure, is followed by five or six other elephants with Mikdembers nearly as resplendent as her own, and filled with ladies attached to her household. Close to the Princess are the chief eunuchs, richly adorned and finely mounted, each with a wand of office in his hand ; and surrounding her elephant, a troop of female servants, Tartars and Kachmerys, fantastically attired and riding handsome pad-horses. Besides these attendants are several eunuchs on horseback, accompanied by a multitude of Pagys, or lackeys on foot, with large canes, who advance a great way before the Princess, both to the right and to the left, for the purpose of clearing the road and driving before them every intruder. Immediately behind Rauchenara-Begum's retinue appears a principal lady of the court, mounted and attended much in the same manner as the Princess. This lady is followed by a third, she by a fourth, and so on, until fifteen or sixteen females of quality pass with a grandeur of appearance, equipage, and retinue more or less proportionate to their rank, pay, and office. ### [9.3.8](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.9.3.8) There is something very impressive of state and royalty in the march of these sixty or more elephants ; in their solemn and, as it were, measured steps ; in the splendour of the Mikdembers, and the brilliant and innumerable followers in attendance : and if I had not regarded this display of magnificence with a sort of philosophical indifference, I should have been apt to be carried away by such flights of imagination as inspire most of the Indian poets, when they represent the elephants as conveying so many goddesses concealed from the vulgar gaze. Truly, it is with difficulty that these ladies can be approached, and they are almost inaccessible to the sight of man. Woe to any unlucky cavalier, however exalted in rank, who, meeting the procession, is found too near. Nothing can exceed the insolence of the tribes of eunuchs and footmen which he has to encounter, and they eagerly avail themselves of any such opportunity to beat a man in the most unmerciful manner. I shall not easily forget being once surprised in a similar situation, and how narrowly I escaped the cruel treatment that many cavaliers have experienced : but determined not to suffer myself to be beaten and perhaps maimed without a struggle, I drew my sword, and having fortunately a strong and spirited horse. --- Source: [https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.9.3](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.bernier~en-constable.9.3) · Pramāṇa