[Pramāṇa](https://indike.org/pramana/) › [Indian literature](https://indike.org/pramana/in) › [Dark Ages](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages) › [Travellers (1500–1858)](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel) › [Storia do Mogor](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.manucci) › [Storia do Mogor (Irvine)](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.manucci~en-irvine) › 43 # Storia do Mogor 43: SURAT. Storia do Mogor (Irvine) 43 - **Language:** English ### SURAT. ### [43.1](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.manucci~en-irvine.43.1) Three times have I visited the port of Surat. It lies on the banks of a large river at a distance of nine leagues from the sea. The first time I was there Surat was very populous, but not encircled by walls, its only defence being then a fort on the bank of the river. On the second and third occasions that I visited the port the town had a good wall, made by Orangzeb (Aurangzeb) on the occasion of the war with Xevagi (Shiva Ji), as I shall state in its proper place. On my first arrival I was much pleased to see such a large river of sweet water full of ships. These latter were not very large, for such only as were of moderate size could come up it unless unloaded ; therefore, they send the cargo in boats as far as the sea and load there, and from the sea they also send the cargo inland by boats. It is a great delight to take a seat on the bank of the river and behold the numerous boats which shoot to and fro like arrows. It is the largest port in India and the best river. Thus, it is resorted to by a great number of ships from different parts of Europe, Persia, Arabia, Mecca, Bassora, the coasts of Malabar and Choramandal, Massulapatao (Masulipatam or Machhlipatanam), Bengal, Siam, Acheen, Queddah, the Maldives, Malacca, Batavia, Manilla, China, and many other parts of the world. ### [43.2](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.manucci~en-irvine.43.2) Whenever a loaded vessel arrives, the Hindu traders go aboard, and ask if the captain wishes to sell the whole cargo of the ship. If so, they pay for it in money, or furnish goods for the return cargo, whichever is preferred. This is all done without delays, and merchants can thus acquire whatever merchandise they are in search of, and for which they have left home. On this river are built very fine lofty ships in a very short time, everything necessary being found, principally excellent timber; for which reason these ships last much longer than those made in Europe. On my first visit to the port I found there no more than two factories, one English and one Dutch, and a little church belonging to the French Capuchin fathers, whose superior was the famous priest Brother Ambrozio. Afterwards the French came and built a handsome factory. Thus Sūrat, which was inhabited by rich traders, Mahomedan, Hindu, English, Dutch, became still more populous by the arrival of the French. Upon the sea-shore, on the other side of the river, the Europeans have their gardens, to which they can retire \[39\] should at any time the Mahomedans attempt to attack them. For there, with the assistance of the ships, they would be able to defend themselves. ### [43.3](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.manucci~en-irvine.43.3) I was much amused when I landed to see the greater number of the inhabitants dressed in white clothes, also the many different kinds of people, as well men as women. The latter, mostly Hindus, do not conceal the face as in Persia and Turkey, where women go about with their faces hidden. It is true that the Mahomedan women do not allow their faces to be seen by anyone, it being contrary to their law to allow themselves to be seen with an uncovered face. But among other things I was much surprised to see that almost everybody was spitting something red as blood. I imagined it must be due to some complaint of the country, or that their teeth had become broken. I asked an English lady what was the matter, and whether it was the practice in this country for the inhabitants to have their teeth extracted. When she understood my question, she answered that it was not any disease, but \[due to\] a certain aromatic leaf called in the language of the country pan, or in Portuguese betele. She ordered some leaves to be brought, ate some herself, and gave me some to eat. Having taken them, my head swam to such an extent that I feared I was dying. It caused me to fall down; I lost my colour, and endured agonies; but she poured into my mouth a little salt, and brought me to my senses. The lady assured me that everyone who ate it for the first time felt the same effects. ### [43.4](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.manucci~en-irvine.43.4) Betel, or pan, is a leaf similar to the ivy-leaf, but the betel leaf is longer ; it is very medicinal, and eaten by everybody in India. They chew it along with ' arrecas ' (areca), which physicians call Avelans Indicas (Indian filberts), and a little catto (kath or katthd), which is the dried juice of a certain plant that grows in India. Smearing the betel leaf with a little of the kath, they chew them together, which makes the lips scarlet and gives a pleasant scent. It happens with the eaters of betel, as to those accustomed to take tobacco, that they are unable to refrain from taking it many times a day. Thus the women of India, whose principal business it is to tell stories and eat betel, are unable to remain many minutes without having it in their mouths. It is an exceedingly common practice in India to offer betel leaf by way of politeness, chiefly among the great men, who, when anyone pays them a visit, offer betel at the time of leaving as a mark of goodwill, and of the estimation in which they hold the person who is visiting them. It would be a great piece of rudeness to refuse it. --- Source: [https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.manucci~en-irvine.43](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.manucci~en-irvine.43) · Pramāṇa