[Pramāṇa](https://indike.org/pramana/) › [Indian literature](https://indike.org/pramana/in) › [Dark Ages](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages) › [Travellers (1500–1858)](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel) › [Les six voyages de Jean-Baptiste Tavernier](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier) › [Travels in India (Ball)](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball) › 129 # Travels in India (Tavernier) 129: Concerning the most celebrated Pagodas of the Idolaters of India Travels in India (Ball) 129 - **Language:** English ## Contents - [129.1](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.129.1) — 7 parts - [129.2](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.129.2) — 7 parts ### Concerning the most celebrated Pagodas of the Idolaters of India ### [129.1.1](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.129.1.1) The idolaters of India have, both in the towns and country parts, a great number of temples, large as well as small, which they call pagodas, where they go to pray to their gods and make offerings ; but many of the poor people who dwell in the forests and mountains, far removed from villages, take a stone, and rudely trace a nose and eyes with yellow or red colour upon it, and all the family then worship it. The four most celebrated pagodas are, Jagannath, Benares, Muttra, and Tirupati (Tripatty), of each of which I shall give a separate description. Jagannāth is the name of one of the mouths of the Ganges, upon which the great pagoda is built, where the Great Brahmin, that is to say the High Priest of the idolaters, resides. The form of the choir or interior of this pagoda is as follows ; and it is similar, in proportion, in all the others, which are built upon the same model, in the form of a cross. The great idol on the altar of the choir has two diamonds for his eyes and a pendant from his neck which reaches to the waist, and the smallest of these diamonds weighs about 40 carats; he has bracelets on his arms, some being of pearls and some of rubies, and this magnificent idol is called Kesora. The revenues of this great pagoda are sufficient to feed 15,000 or 20,000 pilgrims daily, and these numbers are often to be found there, the pagoda being the object of the highest devotion by the Indians, who visit it from all quarters. ### [129.1.2](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.129.1.2) It should be remarked that jewellers, who come like others, are not now permitted to enter the pagoda, since one of them, who allowed himself to be shut up during the night, extracted a diamond from one of the eyes of the idol, intending to steal it. As he was about to leave in the morning, when the pagoda was opened, this thief, they say, died at the door, and the idol performed this miracle as a punishment for sacrilege. What makes this pagoda, which is a grand building, the principal one in India, is, that it is situated on the Ganges, the idolaters believing that the waters of that river have a special virtue, which cleanses them from defilement when they bathe in it. That which causes this pagoda to be otherwise so rich (for it supports up to 20,000 cows) is the great amount of the offerings made every day by the incredible multitude of people who arrive from all parts. But these alms are not altogether at the discretion of those who give them, as they are fixed by the High Priest, who before granting permission to the pilgrims to shave themselves, to wash themselves in the Ganges, and to do the other things necessary to fulfil their vows, taxes each one according to his means, of which he is very exactly informed. Thus he receives enormous sums, from which he himself derives no profit, all being expended on the feeding of the poor and the support of the pagoda. ### [129.1.3](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.129.1.3) The Grand Brahmin, then, distributes to the pilgrims whatever food is required, each day, as butter, milk, rice, and flour; but to the poor, who are in want of utensils to cook their food with, it is given ready cooked. It is a surprising thing, and well worthy of notice, to observe how the food is distributed to the poor people who have no pots. In the morning the rice is cooked in earthen pots of different sizes, and when the hour has come when these poor pilgrims arrive to ask for food, if, for example, there are five, the Chief Brahmin orders another Brahmin to take a pot full of cooked rice, which he lets fall, and the pot breaks itself equally into five parts, of which each pilgrim takes one, and likewise in proportion, more or less, according to the number of people who present themselves to whom the rice is to be distributed. The Brahmins never cook twice in the same earthen pot, but use copper pots frequently, and they have for plates certain leaves larger than our walnut leaves, which are stitched together. They have, however, a kind of dish about a foot in diameter, which is used to melt butter, in which they dip the rice with their fingers when eating, and a small ladle for the melted butter, which is drunk as we drink a glass of Spanish wine after a repast. I come now to a more detailed description of the idol on the altar of the pagoda of Jagannath. ### [129.1.4](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.129.1.4) It is covered from the neck to the base with a grand mantle which hangs on the altar, and this mantle is of gold or silver brocade according to the nature of the ceremonies. From the first this idol had neither feet nor hands, and this is how this fact is explained. After one of their prophets was taken up into heaven, when they were all plunged in tears and laments at losing him, God sent to them from heaven an angel who was like the prophet, so they treated him with great honour and respect. But while the angel was afterwards engaged in making the idol, impatience seized upon them, and they removed it to place it in the pagoda, although, as yet, it was unprovided with feet and hands. But as it was too deformed, they made hands for it of the small pearls which we call “pearls by the ounce.” As for the feet, they cannot be seen, being concealed under the mantle. There is nothing left uncovered save the hands and face ; the head and body are made of sandal wood. Around the elevated dome in which the idol is seated, from the base up to the top, there are numerous niches containing other images, the majority of which represent hideous monsters, and they are made of stone of various colours. ### [129.1.5](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.129.1.5) On each side of this great pagoda there are other much smaller ones where the pilgrims make their smallest offerings, and those who, on account of sickness or in their business, have made a vow to some god, take there an image or semblance of the object in memory of the benefit which they believe they have received. This idol is anointed every day with scented oils which make him quite black. He has on his right hand his sister who is called Soiora, who is also represented standing and clothed; and on his left his brother, also clothed, who is called Balbader. In front of the great idol, somewhat to the left, his wife is to be seen, who is called Kemui, she is of massive gold, and represented standing, the three others are made of sandal wood. The two other pagodas are intended for the residence of the chief Brahmin, or High Priest, and the other priests who serve in the great pagoda. All these Brahmins go about with bare heads, and the majority are shaved, having for sole garment a piece of cloth, a part of which wraps round the body, and the remainder is worn like a scarf. Near the pagoda the tomb of one of their prophets, named Cabir, to whom they do great honour, is to be seen. It should be remarked that all these idols are on a kind of altar surrounded by gratings, for no one is allowed to touch them, with the exception of certain Brahmins appointed by the High Priest for that purpose. ### [129.1.6](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.129.1.6) I come to the pagoda of Benares, which, after that of Jagannath, is the most famous in all India, with which it is even, as it were, on a par, being also built on the margin of the Ganges, and in the town of which it bears the name. The most remarkable thing about it is that from the door of the pagoda to the river there is a descent by stone steps, where there are at intervals platforms and small, rather dark, chambers, some of which serve as dwellings for the Brahmins, and others as kitchens where they prepare their food. For after the idolaters have bathed, and have gone to pray and make their offerings in the pagoda, they prepare their food without any one but themselves touching it, through the fear they have lest any one who approached it might be unclean. But above all things, they ardently desire to drink the water of the Ganges, because, as soon as they have drunk it, they believe, as I have said, that they are cleansed from all their sins. Every day large numbers of these Brahmins are to be seen going to the clearest part of the river to fill this water into round, small-mouthed, earthen pots, which hold about a bucketful. When they are full they are taken to the chief priest, who directs the mouth to be covered with a very fine cloth of fire-colour, in three or four folds, upon which he applies his seal. The Brahmins carry this water at the end of a stick, which is flat like a lath, from which hang six small cords, and to each of them one of these pots is attached. ### [129.1.7](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.129.1.7) They rest themselves by changing the shoulder frequently, and they sometimes travel three or four hundred leagues of country with this load, and then sell it, or make a present of it, but only to the richest persons, from whom they expect a liberal reward. There are some of these Idolaters who, when they celebrate any festival — especially when their children are married — drink this water at a cost of 400 or 500 écus. It is only drunk at the end of the repast, as we drink hypocras or muscat in Europe, each (guest) receiving a cup, or two, according to the liberality of the host. The principal reason why this water of the Ganges is so highly esteemed, is, that it never becomes bad, and engenders no vermin ; but I do not know whether we should believe what is said about this, taking into consideration the number of bodies which are constantly being thrown into the Ganges. ### [129.2.1](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.129.2.1) Returning to the pagoda at Benares. The building is in the figure of a cross, like all the other pagodas, having its four arms equal. In the middle a lofty dome rises like a kind of tower with many sides, which terminates in a point, and at the end of each arm of the cross another tower rises, which can be ascended from outside. Before reaching the top you meet several balconies and many niches, which project to intercept the fresh air; and all over the tower there are figures in relief of various kinds of animals, which are rudely executed. Under this great dome, and exactly in the middle of the pagoda, there is an altar like a kind of table, of 7 to 8 feet in length, and 5 to 6 wide, with two steps in front, which serve as a footstool, and this footstool is covered by a beautiful tapestry, sometimes of silk and sometimes of gold and silk, according to the solemnity of the ceremony which is being celebrated. The altar is covered with gold or silver brocade, or some beautiful painted cloth. From outside the pagoda this altar faces you with the idols which are upon it; for the women and girls must salute it from the outside, as they are not allowed to enter the pagoda, save only those of a certain tribe. Among the idols on the great altar there is one standing which is 5 or 6 feet in height; neither the arms, legs, nor trunk are seen, the head and neck only being visible; all the remainder of the body, down to the altar, is covered by a robe which increases in width below. ### [129.2.2](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.129.2.2) Sometimes on its neck there is to be seen a rich chain of gold, rubies, pearls, or emeralds. This idol has been made in honour and after the likeness of Bainmadou, who was formerly a great and holy personage among them, whose name they often have on their lips. On the right side of the altar there is also to be seen the figure of an animal, or rather of a chimera, seeing that it represents in part an elephant, in part a horse, and in part a mule. It is of massive gold, and is called Garou, no person being allowed to approach it but the Brahmins. It is said to be the resemblance of the animal which this holy personage rode upon when he was in the world, and that he made long journeys on it, going about to see if the people were doing their duty and not injuring any one. At the entrance of the pagoda, between the principal door and the great altar, there is to the left a small altar, upon which an idol made of black marble is to be seen, seated, with the legs crossed, and about two feet high. When I was there it had near it, on the left, a small boy, who was son of the chief priest, and all the people who came there threw him pieces of taffeta, or brocaded cloth like handkerchiefs, with which he wiped the idol and then returned them to their owners. Others threw him chains made of beads like small nuts, which have a naturally sweet scent, which these idolaters wear on their necks and use to repeat their prayers over each bead. ### [129.2.3](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.129.2.3) Others also throw chains of coral, others of yellow amber, others fruits and flowers. Finally, with everything which is thrown to the chief Brahmin's child he wipes the idol and makes him kiss it, and afterwards, as I have just said, returns it to the people. This idol is called Morli Ram, that is to say, the God Morli, brother of the idol on the great altar. Under the principal entrance of the pagoda one of the chief Brahmins is to be seen seated, close to whom is a large dish full of yellow pigment mixed with water. ### [129.2.4](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.129.2.4) All the poor idolaters come one after the other to present themselves to him, and he anoints their foreheads with some of this colour, which is continued down between the eyes and on to the end of the nose, then on the arms and in front of the chest ; and it is by these marks that those who have bathed in the Ganges are distinguished. Those who only bathe in their dwellings (for they are all obliged to bathe before eating, and even before cooking), those, I say, who have only bathed in well-water, or in water brought from the river, are not properly purified, and in consequence cannot be anointed with this colour. It may be remarked that the idolaters, according to their castes, are anointed with different colours ; and in the Empire of the Great Mogul, those who are anointed with yellow belong to the most important tribe, and are the least impure. For, when attending to the ordinary necessities of nature, the others content themselves with carrying a pot of water to wash themselves with, but these always use a handful of sand, with which having first rubbed themselves, they afterwards wash. So that they can say their bodies are clean, that no impurity remains, and they may then take their food without fear. ### [129.2.5](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.129.2.5) Adjoining this great pagoda, on the side which faces the setting sun at midsummer, there is a house which serves as a college, which the Raja Jai Singh, the most powerful of the idolatrous princes, who was then in the Empire of the Great Mogul, has founded for the education of the youth of good families. I saw the children of this Prince, who were being educated there, and had as teachers several Brahmins, who taught them to read and write in a language which is reserved to the priests of the idols, and is very different from that spoken by the people. Having entered the court of this college, being curious to see it, and throwing my eyes upwards, I perceived a double gallery which ran all round it, and in the lower one these two Princes were seated, accompanied by many young nobles and numerous Brahmins, who were making different figures, like those of mathematics, on the ground with chalk. As soon as I entered, these Princes sent to inquire who I was, and having learnt that I was a Frenchman they invited me to ascend, when they asked me many things about Europe, and especially about France. One of the Brahmins had two globes, which the Dutch had given him, and I pointed out the position of France upon them. After some conversation of this kind they presented me with betel; and before I took leave I asked the Brahmins at what hour I should be able to see the pagoda open. ### [129.2.6](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.129.2.6) Having told me to come on the following morning a little before sunrise, I did not fail to be at the same house by that time, where the Raja had caused a pagoda to be built on the left of the entrance. In front of the door there is to be seen, as it were, a gallery sustained by pillars, where many people were already assembled—men, women, and children—awaiting the opening of the door. When the gallery and a part of the court are full of people, eight Brahmins approach, four on each side of the door of the pagoda, each carrying a censer; and there are many other Brahmins who make a great noise with drums and other instruments. The two oldest of the Brahmins chant a canticle, and all the people, after they have intoned it, repeat the same while singing and playing instruments, each one waving a peacock’s tail, or other kind of fan, to drive away the flies; so that when the door of the pagoda is opened the idol may not be inconvenienced by them. All this fanning and music lasted a good half-hour, then the two principal Brahmins began to sound two large bells three times, and, with a kind of small mallet, they then knocked at the door. At the same moment it was opened by six Brahmins, who were inside the pagoda, and 7 or 8 paces from the door an altar was to be seen with an idol upon it, which is called Ram Kam, who is the sister of Morli Ram. ### [129.2.7](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.129.2.7) She has on her right a child in the form of Cupid, who is known as the god Lakshmi, and on her left arm she carries a small girl called the goddess Sita. As soon as the door of the pagoda was opened, and after a large curtain had been drawn, and the people present had seen the idol, all threw themselves on the ground, placing their hands upon their heads and prostrating themselves three times; then having risen they threw a quantity of bouquets and chains in form of chaplets, which the Brahmins placed in contact with the idol, and then returned to the people. An old Brahmin who was in front of the altar, held in his hand a lamp with nine lighted wicks, upon which, from time to time, he threw a kind of incense when approaching the lamp towards the idol. All these ceremonies lasted about an hour, after which the people retired, and the pagoda was closed. The people presented the idol with a quantity of rice, flour, butter, oil, and milk, of which the Brahmins let nothing be lost. As this idol has the form of a woman, all the women invoke her, and regard her as their patron; this is the reason why (the temple) is always crowded with women and children. ### [129.3](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.129.3) The Raja, in order to have this idol in the pagoda of his house and to get it from the great pagoda, has expended in gifts to the Brahmins and in alms to the poor more than five lakhs (500,000) of rupees, which make 750,000 livres of our money. On the other side of the street in which this College is situated, there is another pagoda called Riciiourdas, from the name of the idol on the altar inside, and lower down on another small altar is the idol whom they call Goupaldas, brother of this Riciiourdas. Only the faces of these idols, which are made of stone or wood, are exposed to view. They are black as jet, with the exception of the image of Morli Ram, which is in the great pagoda and is uncovered. As for the idol Ram Kam, which is in the pagoda of the Raja, it has two diamonds in the eyes which this Prince has had placed there, together with a large necklace of pearls, and a canopy sustained by four silver pillars over its head. At eight days’ journey from Benares, due northwards, a mountainous country is entered, which in the intervals has beautiful plains sometimes 2 to 3 leagues wide. They are very fertile, producing corn, rice, and vegetables, but that which injures and ruins the people of this country is the abundance of elephants which eat a considerable proportion of the vegetables and grain. If a caravan of travellers passes through this country where there are no caravansarais, as they are compelled to camp in the open fields, they have much trouble in defending themselves during the night from the elephants which often come to carry away the food. In order to prevent them the travellers light fires, fire numerous musket-shots, and from time to time some of them cry with all their might, and make a great noise to frighten these animals. In this country there is another pagoda, well-built and very ancient, and ornamented within and without with many figures, which are representations of girls and women only. Men never go there to worship, and on that account it is called the girls’ pagoda. It has an altar in the middle like the other pagodas, and upon this altar there is an idol of massive gold about 4 feet high, which represents a girl, standing, whom they call Ram Marion. She has on her right a child, standing, made of massive silver, and nearly 2 feet in height, and it is said that this girl living a holy life, the infant was taken to her by the Brahmins to learn her creed and how to live well ; but at the end of three or four years, during which the child had dwelt with the girl, it became so clever and accomplished that all the Rajas and Princes of the country wished for it, and, at last, one of them carried it off one night and it has not since been seen. This idol has on her left, at the base of the altar, another idol representing an old man, whom they say had been the servant of Ram Marion and the child, and the Brahmins pay great reverence to this idol. They come to it but once a year for worship, and it is necessary for them to arrive on a prescribed day, which is the first day of the moon in November, because the pagoda is only opened at full moon. During the fifteen days which intervene all the pilgrims, both men and women, must fast from time to time, wash their bodies three times every day, without leaving a single hair in whatever place it may be, all being easily removed by the use of a certain earth with which they rub themselves. --- Source: [https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.129](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.129) · Pramāṇa