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Travels in India (Tavernier) 26: Route from Golconda to Masulipatam

Travels in India (Ball) 26

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English

Route from Golconda to Masulipatam

26.1

From Golconda to Masulipatam it is counted to be 100 coss by the straight road ; but when you wish to go by way of the diamond mine called Coulour in Persian, and Gani in the Indian language, it is 112 coss, and this is the route which I have ordinarily taken. From Golconda to Tenara, 4 coss. Tenara is a fine place, where there are four very beautiful houses, each having a large garden. That one of the four which is on the left of the high road is incomparably more beautiful that the three others. It is all built of cut stone and in two storeys, containing large galleries, beautiful halls, and fine rooms. In front of the house there is a large courtyard, somewhat like the Place Royale in Paris. On each of the three other sides there is a large entrance, and from one side to the other a fine veranda, elevated about 4 or 5 feet above the ground and well arched over, and here travellers of the superior classes are accustomed to lodge. Above each entrance there is a grand balustrade, and a small chamber for ladies. When persons of position do not wish to occupy these dwellings, they can have their tents pitched in the gardens; and it should be remarked that only three of these houses may be occupied,—for the grandest and most beautiful one is reserved for the Queen. When she is not there one may see it and walk through it, for the garden is very beautiful and contains many fine pieces of water. The whole area is laid out in this manner.

26.2

There are small chambers destined for poor travellers, and every day towards evening they receive a dole of bread, rice, or vegetables already cooked; and to the idolaters, who eat nothing which has been prepared by others, they give flour to make bread and a little butter, for, as soon as their bread is baked like a cake, they cover it on both sides with melted butter. From Tenara to Jatenagar (Hyatnagar) . 12 coss. ,, Jatenagar to Patengy (Puntangi) . 12 ,, ,, Patengy to Pengeul (Pungul) . 14 ,, ,, Pengeul to Nagelpar (Nagulpad) . 12 ,, ,, Nagelpar to Lakabaron (Lakkawurrum) 11 ,, ,, Lakabaron to Coulour or Gani (Kollur) (of which I shall speak in the account of the mines) . . . 11 ,, The greater part of the road from Lakkawurrum to Kollur, especially as you approach Kollur, is rocky, and in two or three places I was obliged to take my carriage to pieces ; this can be quickly done. Wherever there is a small quantity of good soil between the rocks you see cassia trees, (the cassia produced by them) being the best and most laxative in all India, this I know from the effect produced on my servants, who ate it as they walked along. There passes along the whole length of the town of Kollur a great river which flows into the Bay of Bengal near Masulipatam. From Coulour or Gani to Kah Kaly (Kakani) 12 coss. ,, Kah Kaly to Bezouar (Bezwada) . 6 „ Close to Bezouar you recross the river. From Bezouar to Vouchir (Weeyur) . . 4 ,, ,, Vouchir to Nilimor (?) . . . 4 ,,

26.3

Between Weeyur and Nilimor, about halfway, you cross a great river upon a raft, there being no boat there. From Nilimor to Milmol (Nedumulu) . 6 coss. ,, Milmol to Maslipatan (Masulipatam) 4 ,, Masulipatam is a straggling town (village), in which the houses are built of wood, and are detached from one another. This place, which is on the seashore, is only renowned on account of its anchorage, which is the best in the Bay of Bengal, and it is the only place from which vessels sail for Pegu, Siam, Arakan, Bengal, Cochinchina, Mecca, and Hormuz, as also for the islands of Madagascar, Sumatra, and the Manillas. It should be remarked that wheel carriages do not travel between Golconda and Masulipatam, the roads being too much interrupted by high mountains, tanks, and rivers, and there being many narrow and difficult passes. It is with the greatest trouble that one takes a small cart. This I have done to the diamond mines, and I was obliged to take mine to pieces frequently in order to pass bad places. It is the same between Golconda and Cape Comorin. There are no waggons in all these territories, and you only see oxen and pack-horses for the conveyance of men, and for the transport of goods and merchandise. But, in default of chariots, you have the convenience of much larger pallankeens than in the rest of India; for one is carried much more easily, more quickly, and at less cost.