[Pramāṇa](https://indike.org/pramana/) › [Indian literature](https://indike.org/pramana/in) › [Dark Ages](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages) › [Travellers (1500–1858)](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel) › [Les six voyages de Jean-Baptiste Tavernier](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier) › [Travels in India (Ball)](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball) › 39.2 # Travels in India (Tavernier) 39.2 Travels in India (Ball) 39.2 - **Language:** English ### [39.2.1](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.2.1) The first day of August, after a march of seven hours, we arrived at Condevir, a large town with a double ditch, and the bottom of the trench lined with cut stone. It is entered by a road which is enclosed on both sides by strong walls, where at intervals there are round towers which afford but small defence. This town touches on the east a mountain which is about a league in circuit, and is surrounded above by high walls. At every 150 paces there is, as it were, a half moon; and within, in the walled enclosure, there are three fortresses, which they have neglected to keep in repair. On the 2d \[August\] we travelled only 6 leagues, and halted at a village called Copenour. On the 3d \[August\], after having made 8 leagues, we reached Adanquige, a fairly good village, where there is a very grand pagoda, with numerous chambers which were made for the priests of the Banians, but to-day it is all in ruins. There are still some idols in the pagoda, but all mutilated, and these poor people do not cease to adore them. On the 4th \[August\] we made 8 leagues, and slept at the village of Nosdrepar. Half a league on this side there is a large river, which then contained but little water — the rains not having commenced. On the 5th \[August\], after 8 leagues of road, we slept at the village of Condecour. On the 6th \[August\] we marched seven hours and halted at another village called Dakijé. ### [39.2.2](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.2.2) On the 7th \[August\], after having travelled 3 leagues, we came to a town called Nelour, where there are many pagodas, and having crossed a great river a quarter of a league farther on, we marched for 6 leagues and came to a village called Gandaron. On the 8th \[August\], after a march of eight hours, we slept at Serepelé, which is only a small village. On the 9th \[August\] we travelled 9 leagues, and slept at a good village called Ponter. On the 10th \[August\] we marched eleven hours and halted at Senepgond, another good village. On the 11th \[August\] we only went as far as Palicate, which is but 4 leagues from Senepgond, and of these 4 leagues we marched more than one in the sea, our horses in many places having the water nearly to the saddle. There is also another road, but it is longer by 2 or 3 leagues. Pulicat is a fort belonging to the Dutch, who occupy the whole length of the coast of Coromandel; and it is where they have their factory, and where the Chief of all those living in the territory of the King of Golconda resides. There are generally about 200 soldiers in garrison in this fort, besides many merchants who reside there for trade, and other persons who, after having served the Company for their full term, are in retirement in this place. There are also some natives of the country, who by degrees have congregated here, so that Pulicat is to-day like a small town. ### [39.2.3](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.2.3) Between the town and the fort a large open space is left, so that the fort is not inconvenienced by the town. The bastions are furnished with good guns, and the sea washes at the foot, but there is no port, it being only a roadstead. We remained in the town till the evening of the following day, and the Governor would not allow us to eat elsewhere but at his table. He was the Sieur Pite, a German of the town of Bremen. We received all kinds of attention from him, and he took us three times round the fort on the walls, where one could easily walk. The manner in which the inhabitants procure the water which they drink is somewhat remarkable. When the tide is out they go on the sand as near to the sea as possible, and they make holes there, where they find sweet water, which is excellent. On the 12th \[August\] at sunset we left Pulicat, and on the following day, at 10 o’clock a.m., we arrived at Madras, otherwise called Fort St. George, which belongs to the English, and of which I have elsewhere spoken — having travelled only 7 or 8 leagues this day. We went to stay at the Convent of the Capuchins, where the Rev. Father Ephraim of Nevers and the Rev. Father Zenon of Bangé were, of whom I have also spoken in preceding chapters. On the 14th \[August\] we went to the fort to visit the English President, and we dined with him. ### [39.2.4](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.2.4) On the 15th \[August\] M. du Jardin and I left in the morning to go to St. Thomé, which, as I have said, is only a good half league from Madras. We first went to see the Governor, who received us with much civility and kept us to dinner. The time after dinner was employed in going to see the Church of the Augustine Fathers and that of the Jesuit Fathers, in the first of which there is the head of a lance, which they regard as being that with which St. Thomas was martyred; and we also went to visit some Portuguese, who received us very well. In the cool of the evening we returned to Madras. On the 16th \[August\] the Governor of St. Thomé and the Portuguese whom we had been to see sent us a quantity of presents, such as hams, ox tongues, sausages, fish, water melons, and other fruits of the country. There were nine or ten men to carry these presents, and as we lodged with the Capuchins it was always believed that M. du Jardin was a bishop, and that, not wishing to make himself known, he had come to see the country in disguise. What confirmed them in this belief was that they knew that the Governor of Pulicat had treated us with great civility, and that he of Madras had done no less. Moreover, six months after our departure, it was impossible for any one to remove this belief, so strongly was it engrafted. ### [39.2.5](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.2.5) On the 17th and 18th \[August\] we went again to dine with the English President, and we passed the time with all the amusements which he was able to devise to remove from our bodies and minds the pains and fatigues which we had incurred during so troublesome a journey. On the 19th \[August\] we went to visit some native Christians who dwell at Madras and live in tolerable comfort. They received us very well, and we heard that they are very generous to the Reverend Capuchin Fathers. On the 20th \[August\] the Christians whom we went to see also sent presents of some fruits of the country. On the 21st \[August\] we went to take leave of the English President and the chiefs of the nation, who had regaled us so well. On the 22d \[August\], in the morning, we left Madras, and, after having travelled 6 leagues, arrived at a large village called Serravaron. On the 23d \[August\], having travelled 7 leagues, we came to Oudecot. This is a day’s march through a flat and somewhat sandy country. On both sides there is nothing but groves of bamboo. It is a kind of cane which is very tall, sometimes equalling in height our loftiest forest trees. There are some of these forests so thick that it is impossible for a man to enter them, and there are an enormous number of monkeys in them. Those on one side of the road are so hostile to those on the other, that none can venture to pass from one side to the other without running the risk of being at once strangled. ### [39.2.6](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.2.6) While at Pulicat, the Governor told us that when we passed through these woods we should enjoy the opportunity, as he had done, of making the monkeys fight, and this is the way which is employed to bring it about. Throughout all this country at every league the road is closed by gates and barricades, where a strict watch is kept, and all passers by are questioned as to whence they come and whither they go, so that a traveller is able without danger and in all safety to carry his gold in his hand. In all these places you find rice to buy, and those who wish to enjoy the amusement of making the monkeys fight, place five or six baskets of rice in the road at forty or fifty paces distant the one from the other, and close to each five or six sticks, two feet long and an inch thick. The baskets being thus placed and uncovered, every one withdraws a short distance, and immediately the monkeys are to be seen on both sides descending from the bamboos and leaving the woods to approach the baskets which are full of rice. They spend half an hour showing their teeth to one another before approaching the baskets, and sometimes they advance, sometimes they retire, all fearing to come to close quarters. ### [39.2.7](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.2.7) At length the females, which are bolder than the males, particularly those having young ones, which they carry in their arms as a woman carries her child, approach the baskets, and when about to stretch forward their heads to eat, immediately the males of the other side of the wood advance to prevent them and to bite them. Those of the other side advance then, and both the one and the other becoming furious take the sticks which they find near the baskets, upon which a fierce combat ensues. The weakest being compelled to give way, withdraw into the wood, some with broken heads, others maimed in some member, while those who remain masters of the field eat their fill of rice. It is true, however, that when they begin to be replete they allow some of the females of the opposition to come to eat with them. --- Source: [https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.2](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.2) · Pramāṇa