[Pramāṇa](https://indike.org/pramana/) › [Indian literature](https://indike.org/pramana/in) › [Dark Ages](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages) › [Travellers (1500–1858)](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel) › [Les six voyages de Jean-Baptiste Tavernier](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier) › [Travels in India (Ball)](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball) › 39 # Travels in India (Tavernier) 39 Travels in India (Ball) 39 - **Language:** English ## Contents - [39.1](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.1) — 7 parts - [39.2](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.2) — 7 parts - [39.3](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.3) — 7 parts - [39.4](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.4) — 8 parts - [39.5](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.5) — 11 parts ### [39.1.1](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.1.1) Route from Masulipatam to Gandikot, a town and fortress in the Province of Carnatic; and the Author's transactions with Mir Jumla, who commanded the Army of the King of Golconda; in which also there is a full description of Elephants. We left Masulipatam on the 20th of June at 5 p.m., and slept at a garden — which is, as I have said, only half a league from the town, and belongs to the Dutch, the chief of whom accompanied us, and we amused ourselves pretty well during a good part of the night. The following day being the 21st, after having taken leave of the Dutch we travelled 3 leagues, and slept at a place called Nilmol. On the 22d \[July\] we travelled 6 leagues to-Woupiir, another village, and before arriving there we crossed a river on a raft. On the 23d \[July\], after a march of six hours, we halted at Patemet, which is but a poor village, and on account of the rains we were obliged to remain there on the 24th, 25th, and 26th. ### [39.1.2](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.1.2) On the 27th \[July\] we arrived at a large village called Bezwada, not having been able to accomplish this day more than a league and a half, on account of the quantity of water which flooded all the roads. We were obliged to halt till the 31st, as the rains had so much flooded the river that the boat could not hold its own against the swift current of the water, and they had not the intelligence to stretch ropes across the river. Besides which it required some time to enable the horses which the King of Persia was sending to the King of Golconda to cross over; they were then reduced to fifty, because five had died at sea. They were being taken to Mīr Jumlā, who was the Nawāb or Grand Vizir, because anything that he has not seen, or which has not been approved by him, is not shown to the King, who buys nothing and receives no present except with the advice of his Prime Minister, who consequently must have the first view; and this, as I have said, was the reason which compelled us to go to the Nawāb at Gandikot. During the sojourn which we made at Bezwada we went to see many pagodas, the country being full of them, and there are more there than in any other part of India, because, with the exception of the Governors of the place and some of their servants, who are Muhammadans, all the people are idolaters. The pagoda of the town of Bezwada is very fine, and is not enclosed by walls. ### [39.1.3](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.1.3) You see fifty-two columns of 20 feet in height or thereabouts, which support a flat floor of large cut stones. They are ornamented by many figures in relief, which represent fearful demons and numerous animals — some of them being figures of demons having four horns, others with many legs and many tails, others which protrude their tongues, and others in more ridiculous attitudes. There are similar figures carved in the stones of the floor, and in the intervals between each pair of columns the statues of the gods are elevated on pedestals. The pagoda is in the middle of a large court, longer than it is wide, and the court is surrounded by walls which are enriched, inside and out, with the same figures as the pagoda. A gallery supported by sixty-six pillars, like a sort of cloister, runs all round the wall inside. You enter this court by a great gate, above which there are two large niches, one over the other, the first of which is supported by twelve pillars, and the second by eight. At the base of the columns of the pagoda there are old Indian inscriptions, which the priests of these idolaters have much difficulty in deciphering. We went to see another pagoda, built on an elevation, and it is ascended by a staircase with 193 steps, each being 1 foot high. The pagoda is square, with a dome on top ; there are figures in relief around the wall like those in the Bezwada pagoda. ### [39.1.4](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.1.4) There is an idol seated in the middle, after the manner of the country, with crossed legs, and in this position it is about 4 feet in height. Its head is covered by a triple crown, from whence proceed four horns, and it has the face of a man turned towards the east. The pilgrims who come for devotion to these pagodas, when entering, join their hands together and carry them to their foreheads, then they approach the idol waving them and repeating many times (the words) Ram, Ram, i.e. God, God. When they are close they sound a bell thrice, which is suspended from the idol itself, of which they have previously smeared different parts of the face and body with various colours. Some carry bottles of oil, with which they anoint the idol, and they offer it sugar, oil, and other articles of food — the richest adding money. There are sixty priests who attend this pagoda, and live with their wives and children on the offerings which are brought to the idol. But in order that the pilgrims may believe that the god takes them, the priests leave them before the image for two days, and on the evening of the third they appropriate them. When a pilgrim goes to the pagoda in order to be cured of some malady, he takes, according to his means, a representation in gold, silver, or copper, of the diseased member, which he presents to his god; he then begins to sing, this all the others do also after their offerings. ### [39.1.5](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.1.5) Before the door of the pagoda there is a flat roof supported by sixteen pillars, and opposite is to be seen another supported by four, where food is cooked for the priests of the pagoda. Towards the south a great platform has been cut in the mountain, where there is shade afforded by numerous beautiful trees, and you see also a very fine well. The pilgrims come there from great distances, and if there are any poor among them the priests feed them with the alms which they receive from the rich who come there out of devotion. The principal festival of this pagoda is in the month of October, at which time there is a great assemblage of people from all quarters. When we were there there was a woman who had been three days in the temple without once leaving it, asking the idol from time to time, since she had lost her husband, what she should do to bring up her children and feed them. Having inquired from one of the priests wherefore this woman had received no reply, and if she would receive one, he said that it was necessary that she should await the will of their god, and that he would then answer what she asked. I immediately suspected some deception, and, in order to discover what it was, resolved to enter the pagoda, especially as all the priests were absent, having gone to dinner, there being but one only at the door, of whom I freed myself by asking him to go to fetch me some water at a fountain, which was two or three musket shots away from the place. ### [39.1.6](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.1.6) During this time I entered the temple, when the woman, on catching a glimpse of me, redoubled her cries, for, as no light entered the pagoda except by the door, it was very dark. I entered, feeling my way in order to ascertain what took place behind the statue, where I found there was a hole through which a man could enter, and where, without doubt, the priest concealed himself and made the idol speak by his mouth. I was not able to accomplish this so quickly but that the priest whom I had begged to go to obtain water for me returned and found me still in the pagoda. He cursed me because I had profaned, as he said, his temple, but we soon became friends by means of two rupees which I placed in his hands, and he at the same time offered me betel. ### [39.1.7](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.1.7) On the 31st we left Bezwada and crossed the river, which goes to the mine of Gani or Kollur. It was then nearly half a league in width, on account of the heavy rains which had lasted during eight or nine days. After having travelled 3 leagues on the other side of the river, we found a great pagoda built on a platform to which one ascended by fifteen or twenty steps. There was an image there of a cow in black marble, and numerous idols of 4 or 5 feet in height, which were all deformed, one having many heads, another many arms and many legs, another many horns, and the most hideous are the most adored and receive most offerings. At a quarter of a league from this pagoda there is a large village. On this day we marched 3 leagues farther, and slept at another village called Kah Kali, near which there is a small pagoda where there are five or six idols of marble fairly well made. ### [39.2.1](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.2.1) The first day of August, after a march of seven hours, we arrived at Condevir, a large town with a double ditch, and the bottom of the trench lined with cut stone. It is entered by a road which is enclosed on both sides by strong walls, where at intervals there are round towers which afford but small defence. This town touches on the east a mountain which is about a league in circuit, and is surrounded above by high walls. At every 150 paces there is, as it were, a half moon; and within, in the walled enclosure, there are three fortresses, which they have neglected to keep in repair. On the 2d \[August\] we travelled only 6 leagues, and halted at a village called Copenour. On the 3d \[August\], after having made 8 leagues, we reached Adanquige, a fairly good village, where there is a very grand pagoda, with numerous chambers which were made for the priests of the Banians, but to-day it is all in ruins. There are still some idols in the pagoda, but all mutilated, and these poor people do not cease to adore them. On the 4th \[August\] we made 8 leagues, and slept at the village of Nosdrepar. Half a league on this side there is a large river, which then contained but little water — the rains not having commenced. On the 5th \[August\], after 8 leagues of road, we slept at the village of Condecour. On the 6th \[August\] we marched seven hours and halted at another village called Dakijé. ### [39.2.2](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.2.2) On the 7th \[August\], after having travelled 3 leagues, we came to a town called Nelour, where there are many pagodas, and having crossed a great river a quarter of a league farther on, we marched for 6 leagues and came to a village called Gandaron. On the 8th \[August\], after a march of eight hours, we slept at Serepelé, which is only a small village. On the 9th \[August\] we travelled 9 leagues, and slept at a good village called Ponter. On the 10th \[August\] we marched eleven hours and halted at Senepgond, another good village. On the 11th \[August\] we only went as far as Palicate, which is but 4 leagues from Senepgond, and of these 4 leagues we marched more than one in the sea, our horses in many places having the water nearly to the saddle. There is also another road, but it is longer by 2 or 3 leagues. Pulicat is a fort belonging to the Dutch, who occupy the whole length of the coast of Coromandel; and it is where they have their factory, and where the Chief of all those living in the territory of the King of Golconda resides. There are generally about 200 soldiers in garrison in this fort, besides many merchants who reside there for trade, and other persons who, after having served the Company for their full term, are in retirement in this place. There are also some natives of the country, who by degrees have congregated here, so that Pulicat is to-day like a small town. ### [39.2.3](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.2.3) Between the town and the fort a large open space is left, so that the fort is not inconvenienced by the town. The bastions are furnished with good guns, and the sea washes at the foot, but there is no port, it being only a roadstead. We remained in the town till the evening of the following day, and the Governor would not allow us to eat elsewhere but at his table. He was the Sieur Pite, a German of the town of Bremen. We received all kinds of attention from him, and he took us three times round the fort on the walls, where one could easily walk. The manner in which the inhabitants procure the water which they drink is somewhat remarkable. When the tide is out they go on the sand as near to the sea as possible, and they make holes there, where they find sweet water, which is excellent. On the 12th \[August\] at sunset we left Pulicat, and on the following day, at 10 o’clock a.m., we arrived at Madras, otherwise called Fort St. George, which belongs to the English, and of which I have elsewhere spoken — having travelled only 7 or 8 leagues this day. We went to stay at the Convent of the Capuchins, where the Rev. Father Ephraim of Nevers and the Rev. Father Zenon of Bangé were, of whom I have also spoken in preceding chapters. On the 14th \[August\] we went to the fort to visit the English President, and we dined with him. ### [39.2.4](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.2.4) On the 15th \[August\] M. du Jardin and I left in the morning to go to St. Thomé, which, as I have said, is only a good half league from Madras. We first went to see the Governor, who received us with much civility and kept us to dinner. The time after dinner was employed in going to see the Church of the Augustine Fathers and that of the Jesuit Fathers, in the first of which there is the head of a lance, which they regard as being that with which St. Thomas was martyred; and we also went to visit some Portuguese, who received us very well. In the cool of the evening we returned to Madras. On the 16th \[August\] the Governor of St. Thomé and the Portuguese whom we had been to see sent us a quantity of presents, such as hams, ox tongues, sausages, fish, water melons, and other fruits of the country. There were nine or ten men to carry these presents, and as we lodged with the Capuchins it was always believed that M. du Jardin was a bishop, and that, not wishing to make himself known, he had come to see the country in disguise. What confirmed them in this belief was that they knew that the Governor of Pulicat had treated us with great civility, and that he of Madras had done no less. Moreover, six months after our departure, it was impossible for any one to remove this belief, so strongly was it engrafted. ### [39.2.5](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.2.5) On the 17th and 18th \[August\] we went again to dine with the English President, and we passed the time with all the amusements which he was able to devise to remove from our bodies and minds the pains and fatigues which we had incurred during so troublesome a journey. On the 19th \[August\] we went to visit some native Christians who dwell at Madras and live in tolerable comfort. They received us very well, and we heard that they are very generous to the Reverend Capuchin Fathers. On the 20th \[August\] the Christians whom we went to see also sent presents of some fruits of the country. On the 21st \[August\] we went to take leave of the English President and the chiefs of the nation, who had regaled us so well. On the 22d \[August\], in the morning, we left Madras, and, after having travelled 6 leagues, arrived at a large village called Serravaron. On the 23d \[August\], having travelled 7 leagues, we came to Oudecot. This is a day’s march through a flat and somewhat sandy country. On both sides there is nothing but groves of bamboo. It is a kind of cane which is very tall, sometimes equalling in height our loftiest forest trees. There are some of these forests so thick that it is impossible for a man to enter them, and there are an enormous number of monkeys in them. Those on one side of the road are so hostile to those on the other, that none can venture to pass from one side to the other without running the risk of being at once strangled. ### [39.2.6](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.2.6) While at Pulicat, the Governor told us that when we passed through these woods we should enjoy the opportunity, as he had done, of making the monkeys fight, and this is the way which is employed to bring it about. Throughout all this country at every league the road is closed by gates and barricades, where a strict watch is kept, and all passers by are questioned as to whence they come and whither they go, so that a traveller is able without danger and in all safety to carry his gold in his hand. In all these places you find rice to buy, and those who wish to enjoy the amusement of making the monkeys fight, place five or six baskets of rice in the road at forty or fifty paces distant the one from the other, and close to each five or six sticks, two feet long and an inch thick. The baskets being thus placed and uncovered, every one withdraws a short distance, and immediately the monkeys are to be seen on both sides descending from the bamboos and leaving the woods to approach the baskets which are full of rice. They spend half an hour showing their teeth to one another before approaching the baskets, and sometimes they advance, sometimes they retire, all fearing to come to close quarters. ### [39.2.7](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.2.7) At length the females, which are bolder than the males, particularly those having young ones, which they carry in their arms as a woman carries her child, approach the baskets, and when about to stretch forward their heads to eat, immediately the males of the other side of the wood advance to prevent them and to bite them. Those of the other side advance then, and both the one and the other becoming furious take the sticks which they find near the baskets, upon which a fierce combat ensues. The weakest being compelled to give way, withdraw into the wood, some with broken heads, others maimed in some member, while those who remain masters of the field eat their fill of rice. It is true, however, that when they begin to be replete they allow some of the females of the opposition to come to eat with them. ### [39.3.1](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.3.1) On the 24th \[August\], after having accomplished 9 leagues by a road similar to that of the preceding day, we arrived at Naraveron. On the 25th \[August\], after a march of eight hours in a country of the same kind, finding gates at every two leagues, we arrived in the evening at Gazel. On the 26th \[August\] we travelled 9 leagues, and halted at Courua, and found nothing, neither for the men nor the mounts, whether oxen or horses, and ours had to content themselves with a little grass which was cut for them. Courua is a somewhat renowned pagoda, and having arrived there we saw several companies of military passing, some with handpikes, others with guns, and others with sticks, who were going to join one of the principal captains of Mir Jumla’s army, on a hill near Courua, where he had pitched his tent. The place is very pleasant, and derives its coolness from numerous trees and fountains. As soon as we learnt that this captain was so near at hand, we set out in order to go to salute him, and we found him in his tent with many nobles who were chiefs of the country, all being idolaters. After we had saluted him and made a present of a pair of pocket pistols decorated with silver, and two yards of Dutch flame-coloured cloth, he asked why we had come into the country, and we replied that we came to see Mir Jumla, Commander-in-Chief of the King of Golconda, on account of some business which we had with him. ### [39.3.2](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.3.2) At this reply he treated us kindly, and having observed that he regarded us as Dutchmen, we said we were not of their country, but were Frenchmen. The captain not having any previous knowledge of our nation, detained us a long time in order to acquaint himself with our forms of government, and the greatness of our King. While he kept us in this way the sufra was spread, and then all the idolatrous nobles withdrew, as they do not eat anything cooked by Muhammadans. Having ascertained that we had not the same scruples, he invited us to supper, but we declined, because it was late, and we wished to rejoin our people. But we had scarcely arrived at our tent when we saw three men, each with a large dish of pilláu on his head, which the captain had sent us. Before we left him he begged us to remain for the following day to enjoy elephant-hunting, but as we did not wish to lose time we excused ourselves, and told him that our business compelled us to proceed. Six or seven days previously they had captured five elephants, three of which had escaped, and it was these which they were pursuing, and ten or twelve of the poor peasants who assisted in capturing them had been killed. We informed ourselves of the manner in which they hunt, and this is what we then ascertained. Certain passages are cut in the woods, which are hollowed out into holes, and covered with branches with a little earth on top. ### [39.3.3](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.3.3) The hunters, by means of shouts and the noise of drums, to which they add fire-darts, drive the elephant into these passages, when meeting with the holes it falls into them and is unable to get out again. They then place ropes and chains on it, which they pass under the belly, and bind the trunk and the legs, afterwards they employ special machines to hoist it up. Nevertheless, out of five which they had taken three escaped, as I have said, although they had still some chains and cords about their bodies, and even on their legs. These people told us an astonishing thing, which is wonderful if one could only believe it. It is, that elephants which have once been caught and have escaped, if driven into the woods are always on their guard, and tear off a large branch of a tree with their trunks, with which they go along sounding everywhere before putting down their feet, to see if there are any holes, so as not to be caught a second time. It was this which made the hunters, who gave us this description, despair of being able to recapture the three elephants which had escaped from them. If we had been certain of being witnesses of this wonderful precaution of the elephant, no matter how pressing our business, we should have willingly waited for two or three days. This captain who had received us so well was a sort of Brigadier, and commanded 3000 or 4000 men who were stationed half a league off. ### [39.3.4](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.3.4) On the 27th \[August\], after having marched two hours, we came to a large village, where we saw the two elephants which had been captured. Each of these wild elephants was between two tame ones, and around the wild ones there were six men with fire-darts, who spoke to the animals when feeding them, saying in their language, “Take that and eat it.” They were small wisps of hay, pieces of black sugar, of rice cooked in water, and pounded peppercorns. When the wild elephant would not do what was ordered, the men told the tame elephants to beat him ; this they immediately did, one striking him on the forehead and head with his trunk, and if he made as though to revenge himself, the other struck him from his side, so that the poor elephant knew not where to turn ; this educated him to obey. ### [39.3.5](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.3.5) As I have insensibly drifted into a history of elephants, I shall add here some other remarks which I have made on the nature of these animals. Although the elephant does not approach the female after having been captured, it happens nevertheless that he becomes in season sometimes. One day when Shah Jahan was out hunting upon his elephant with one of his sons, who sat with him in order to fan him, the elephant became so much in heat that the driver, not being able to control it any longer, told the King that in order to arrest the rage of the elephant, which might crush them among the trees, it was necessary that one of the three who was on the elephant should offer himself up, and that with all his heart he sacrificed his life for the King and for his son, begging his majesty to take care of the three children whom he was leaving. Having said so, he threw himself under the elephant, and immediately the animal took him with his trunk, and having crushed him under his feet, became mild and tractable as before. The King, for this wonderful escape, gave 200,000 rupees to the poor, and promoted at court each of the sons of the man who had so generously given his life for the safety of his Prince. I have to remark still that, although the skin of the elephant is very hard during life, when dead it feels like bird-lime in the hands. Elephants come from many places in Asia — from the island of Ceylon, where they are the smallest, but the most courageous of all; ### [39.3.6](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.3.6) from the island of Sumatra, the Kingdom of Cochin, the Kingdom of Siam, and the frontiers of the Kingdom of Bhutan towards Great Tartary. They come also from the coast of Melinda, on the East coast of Africa, where they must be very abundant, according to a report which was made to me at Goa by a Portuguese captain who came from that region to make some complaint against the Governor of Mozambique. He told me that throughout that coast there are many enclosures fenced with elephants’ tusks only, and that some of them are more than a league in circuit. He added that the blacks of the country hunt the elephants, and that they eat the flesh, but for each elephant which they slay they have to give one of the tusks to their Chief. I have described how elephants are captured in the territory of the King of Golconda ; the following is the method employed in the island of Ceylon in the capture of these animals. A long passage, enclosed on both sides, is prepared, so that when an elephant has entered he cannot turn either to the right or to the left. This passage is wide to begin with, but narrows gradually to the end, where there is only room for a female elephant, which is in season, to lie down. ### [39.3.7](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.3.7) Although tame she is nevertheless bound with chains and strong cords, and by her cries she attracts the male, who comes to her along the passage up to where it becomes narrow, which, when he has passed, the men who are concealed close that portion of the passage by a strong barricade which they have in readiness ; and when the elephant is advanced a short distance farther, and is not far from the female, another barricade closes the passage in that direction. It is then that, with chains and ropes, which they have thrown on the elephant, they bind his trunk and legs, and enclose him in the trap so that he is unable to escape from it. A nearly identical method is followed in the Kingdoms of Siam and Pegu, the only difference being that the peasants mount the female and go to the forests in search of the male. When they have found him, they tie up the female in the most convenient place which they can find, after which they lay snares for the elephant, who approaches slowly on hearing her cries. ### [39.4.1](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.4.1) It is especially remarkable of the female elephant that at certain seasons she collects all kinds of leaves and grass, with which she makes for herself a bed with a kind of bolster, elevated 4 or 5 feet from the ground, where, contrary to the nature of all other beasts, she lies to await the male, whom she calls by her cries. It is, moreover, peculiar to the elephants of Ceylon that it is only the first male produced by the female which has tusks. It is to be remarked also that the ivory which comes from the islands of Ceylon and Acheen has the peculiarity when it is worked that it never becomes yellow like that which comes from the Peninsula and the West (sic) Indies; this causes it to be more esteemed and dearer than the other. ### [39.4.2](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.4.2) When merchants are taking elephants anywhere to sell, it is amusing to see them pass. As there are generally both old and young, when the former have passed the children run after the little ones which follow behind, playing with them and giving them something to eat. Whilst these young elephants, which are then alone, are occupied in taking what is given, the children jump upon them, and it is then that the fun begins. For the young elephants which have remained to eat, since their mothers have been all the time marching, being then some distance off, double their pace, and by flourishing the trunk throw on the ground the children who are upon them, without all the time doing them any harm. This does not in the least repel this little crowd, which continues to follow them for some time, offering them food as before. Notwithstanding all the researches which I have made with much care, I have never been able to ascertain very exactly how long an elephant lives, and this is all the information one can obtain from those who tend these animals. They cannot say more than that such an elephant has been in the charge of their father, grandfather, and great-grandfather, and by estimating the time that these people may have lived, it is found that an elephant’s age sometimes amounts to 120 or 130 years. I observe that the majority of those who have written accounts of India say boldly that the Great Mogul keeps 3000 or 4000 elephants. ### [39.4.3](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.4.3) When at Jahānābād, where the King at present resides, I often inquired from the person who has charge of them, and who shows much friendship for the Franks, in order to know what the number of elephants was which he feeds for the service of the King, and he assured me that he had but 500, which are called elephants of the household, because they are only employed to carry the women and the tents with all the rest of the baggage, and for war only 80 or at most 90. The most courageous of these last has to be supported by the eldest son of the King, and is allotted, both for food and for all other necessary expenses, 500 rupees a month, which amount to 750 livres. There are some that have only 50, others but 40, others 30, others 20 rupees; but the elephants which have 100 or 200 or 300 or 400 rupees a month have under them their horsemen to support, who live on this pay, and also two, three, and up to six young elephants, who have to fan them during the great heat of the day. All these elephants do not remain in the town, as the majority go every morning to the country, where those who tend them take them into the jungles, where they eat branches of trees, sugar-canes, and millet, by which the poor peasants suffer much loss. This is profitable to those who tend these animals, because the more they eat in the country, the less food they consume in the town — the saving goes into the purse of these persons. ### [39.4.4](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.4.4) This same day, the 27th of August, we travelled 6 leagues farther, and slept at a large town called Ragiapeta. On the 28th, after having made 8 leagues, we came to Oudecour. On the 29th, after a march of nine hours, we arrived at Outemeda, where there is one of the grandest pagodas in the whole of India. It is all built of large cut stones, and it has three towers where there are many deformed figures cut in relief. It is surrounded by many small chambers for the dwelling of the priests of the pagoda, and 500 paces off there is a great tank, upon the borders of which there are many small pagodas of 8 or 10 feet square, and in each an idol in the form of a demon, with a Brahmin, who takes care that any stranger who is not of their faith does not come to wash or take water from the tank. If a stranger wishes for water they carry him some in earthen pots, and if by chance their pot touches the vessel of the stranger they break the pot. I am told, also, as I have elsewhere remarked, that if any one not being of their faith washes in the tank it becomes necessary for them to let out all the water which is then in it. As for charity, they are very liberal, for no one passes who is in want and who asks, to whom they do not give to eat and drink of whatever they may happen to have. You meet many women on these roads, some of whom always keep fire to light the tobacco of passers, and even to those who have not tobacco they give a pipe. ### [39.4.5](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.4.5) The others go there to cook rice with quicheri, which is a grain like our hemp-seed; others, too, cook beans, because the water in which they are cooked never causes pleurisy to those who are overheated. There are among these women some who have vowed to perform this charity for travellers during seven or eight years; others for more or less time according to their convenience, and they give each traveller bean water and rice water to drink, and two or three handsful of this cooked rice to eat. Other women are to be seen on the highroads and in the fields following horses, oxen, and cows; these have vowed to eat nothing but what they find undigested in these animals’ droppings. As neither barley nor oats are to be had in this country, the cattle are fed on certain large and hard peas, which are first crushed between two grindstones and then allowed to steep for half an hour, for they are very hard and consequently difficult of digestion. The horses are given some of these peas every evening, and in the morning they receive about two pounds of coarse black sugar, which is almost like wax, kneaded with an equal weight of flour and a pound of butter, of which mixture the grooms make pellets or small balls, which are forced down the horses’ throats, otherwise they would not eat them. Afterwards their mouths are washed, especially the teeth, which are covered with the paste, this gives them a dislike to this kind of food. ### [39.4.6](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.4.6) During the day the horses are given some grass which is torn up in the fields, roots and all, and is most carefully washed so that no earth remains. On the 30th \[August\] we made 8 leagues, and halted at Goulapali. On the 31st, after a march of nine hours, we stopped at Gogeron. On the first day of September we made only 6 leagues, and we came to a halt at Gandikot. It was only eight days since the Nawáb had taken this town after a three months’ siege, and he would not have taken it but for the aid of some Frenchmen who had quitted the Dutch service on account of the treatment which they had received. He also had as gunners many English and Dutch, with two or three Italians, who gave him great aid in the capture of the place. Gandikot is one of the fortified towns which are in the Kingdom of Carnatic. It is built on the summit of a high mountain, and the sole means of access to it is by a very difficult road, which is only 20 or 25 feet wide, and in certain parts only 7 or 8 ; the Nawáb was then commencing to improve it. On the right of the road, which is cut in the mountain, there is a fearful precipice, at the base of which runs a large river. When on the mountain you see a small plain about a quarter of a league wide and half a league long. It is sown with rice and millet, and is watered by many small springs. At the level of the plain to the south, where the town is built on a point, the limits are formed by precipices, with two rivers which bound the point at the base ; ### [39.4.7](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.4.7) so that, in order to enter the town, there is but one gate on the plain side, and it is fortified in this direction with three good walls of cut stone, with the ditches at their bases faced with the same stone. Consequently, during the siege, the inhabitants had only to guard a space of 400 or 500 paces wide. They had only two iron guns — one being a 12-pounder, the other 7 to 8; the first was placed on the gate, and the other on the point of a kind of bastion. Until the Nawáb found a means to mount guns above he lost many men from the frequent sorties made by the besieged. The Rájá who was in the town was considered to be one of the best and bravest commanders among the idolaters, and the Nawáb, seeing at length that the place could not be taken unless guns were carried up to the heights, ordered all the Franks who were in the service of the King as gunners to come to him, and promised to each four months’ wages more than their ordinary pay if they could find some means of conveying guns to the heights. In this they were successful. They mounted four guns, with which they bombarded the place, and they were so fortunate as to direct them against the gun which was on the gate, which they rendered useless. When they had battered down half the gate of the town the besieged capitulated; they evacuated the place under honourable conditions. ### [39.4.8](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.4.8) On the day upon which we arrived the whole army was encamped at the base of the mountain in a plain, where there is a very fine river, and the Nawáb was just ending the review of the cavalry, which were very smart. An English gunner, with his comrade, an Italian, seeing M. du Jardin and myself pass, and recognising us to be Franks, as it was late politely came to meet us, and invited us to spend the night with them. It was from them that we heard that there was a French gunner then in the town, named Claude Maillé of Bourges, and that he was engaged in casting some cannon which the Nawáb wished to leave in the place. ### [39.5.1](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.5.1) On the following day, being the 2d of the month, we ascended to the town and stopped at the house of Maillé, whom I had known at Batavia, where he was in the service of the Dutch, serving them as gardener to the General. He received us with much joy, and having at first notified the Nawáb of our arrival, he ordered them to provide us lodging and necessary food immediately, not only for ourselves, but also for our horses and oxen, during the stay that we were going to make at Gandikot. ### [39.5.2](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.5.2) On the 3d \[September\] we went to see the Nawáb, who had caused his tents to be pitched on the summit of the mountains, in the quarter bordering the road cut in the rock. He received us well, asking us if we were comfortably housed, and if we had been given the food which he had ordered for ourselves and horses. Subsequently he inquired the cause which had brought us thither, and we replied that we had brought some goods sufficiently choice for the King, but that we had not wished to go to his majesty before showing them to him — well knowing that the King bought nothing of high price without his advice, and that, in any case, we considered such deference to be due to him. The Nawáb assured us that our compliment had not displeased him, and after he had caused betle to be presented to us we took our leave and returned to the town. We found all the gunners awaiting us, and we all assembled at Maille’s house for supper, where the Nawab sent us two bottles of wine — one Spanish, the other of Shiraz — which is rare in this country. As for brandy, they have no lack of it, for they make it of rice and also of sugar, of which there is an abundance in all these parts of India. ### [39.5.3](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.5.3) On the 4th we again visited the Nawab, and showed him the jewels which we hoped to sell to the King. They consisted of some pear-shaped pearls of a weight, beauty, and size which were unusual — the least exceeding 24 carats. After having examined them well, and shown them to a number of nobles who were with him, he asked us the price; which having heard, he returned them to us, and at the same time said he would consider it. He made us dine with him, and after the repast we withdrew to the town, where we remained till the 10th without seeing the Nawab. ### [39.5.4](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.5.4) On the morning of the 10th \[September\] he sent to summon us, and as soon as we were seated in his tent, close to him, the attendants brought him five small bags full of diamonds, and each bag contained about as many as one could hold in the hand. They were all lasques, but of very dark water and very small, and for the most part were only 1 carat or half a carat in weight, but otherwise very clear. There were very few which amounted to 2 carats. The Nawab, when showing us these stones, asked if such goods were saleable in our country. We replied that one might sell them provided the water was white, because in Europe we do not esteem diamonds if they are not clear and white, and that we made no account of other kinds of water. When he first began to contemplate the conquest of this Kingdom for the King of Golconda, he was told that it had diamond mines, and he sent 12,000 men to work them, who in the space of a year only found those which he had in the five bags. The Nawab, seeing that they only found stones of very brown water, tending much more to black than white, rightly considered that it was loss of trouble, and forbidding further mining, sent all these poor people back to tillage. After the Nawab had closed up his diamonds again, and we had dined with him, he mounted his horse, accompanied by many nobles, to go hunting, and desired to take us with him; but we begged him to excuse us, and we left without his speaking to us of our pearls. ### [39.5.5](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.5.5) On the 11th \[September\] all the Frank gunners went to the Nawab's tent, crying out that they had not been paid the four months' wages which had been promised, and that if they were not paid they would go to take service elsewhere, upon which the Nawab put them off till the following day. On the 12th, the gunners not having omitted to repair to the tent of the Nawab, he ordered them to be paid for three months, and promised them at the close of the current month to pay the fourth. They had no sooner received this money than they treated one another, and the baladines carried off more than half of it. On the 13th the Nawab went to the town to see the foundry which Maille had erected by his orders. Maille, as I have said, was from Bourges, and enlisted at Amsterdam for India. Having reached Batavia, the General, perceiving that he was skilful and very intelligent, kept him in his personal service to make some grottoes and fountains in his garden. But Maille, being neither satisfied with this employment nor with the rough treatment of the General, found means to place himself in the suite of M. Cheteur, who was sent from Batavia to the Nawab, then engaged in the siege of Gandikot. ### [39.5.6](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.5.6) This Envoy having accomplished his business with the Nawab, and Maille knowing that he would be leaving on the following day, took possession of the case and box of ointments belonging to the Ambassador’s surgeon, and concealed himself till such time as the Envoy departed, without being able to find Maille, in spite of all the search he could make, which had obliged him to delay his departure for some days. As soon as Maille heard that the Envoy was gone, he was appointed to the service of the Nawab as surgeon; and some time after, having informed him that he was a good gunner and founder, he entered his service in that capacity. The Nawab having taken Gandikot, and desiring to have some cannon inside the fort, where it was very difficult to carry them, proposed to Maille to cast twenty pieces—ten of 48 pounds, and ten others of 24 pounds; this Maille undertook to do. He was supplied with copper for this purpose from all quarters, and the Nawab collected a quantity of idols which had been removed from the pagodas which his army had visited. There is in Gandikot a pagoda which is considered to be one of the principal in India, where there are many idols, some being of gold and others of silver. Among these idols there were six of copper, three of which were seated on their heels, and the three others were about 10 feet high. ### [39.5.7](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.5.7) After Maille had made all preparations to melt these metals and the idols which had been brought from different places, he accomplished the melting of all except the six large idols of the famous pagoda of Gandikot. It was impossible for him to melt them, no matter how much the Nawab expended; and he even threatened the priests of the pagoda, whom he accused of having bewitched the idols. In short, Maille never accomplished making a single cannon, one being split, another incomplete; and so he relinquished all the work he had undertaken, and sometime afterwards quitted the service of the Nawab. ### [39.5.8](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.5.8) On the 14th we went to the tent of the Nawab to take leave of him, and to hear what he had to say regarding the goods which we had shown him. But we were told that he was engaged examining a number of criminals, who had been brought to him for immediate punishment. It is the custom in this country not to keep a man in prison; but immediately the accused is taken he is examined and sentence is pronounced on him, which is then executed without any delay. If the person whom they have seized is found to be innocent he is released at once ; and whatever the nature of the case may be, it is promptly concluded. Moreover, we were told that it would be difficult for us to see the Nawab on that day, because he intended to descend to the plain to review the greater part of his army. We did not omit, however, to meet him at the door of his tent in the evening, where, having dismounted, and M. du Jardin and I having saluted him, he invited us to come to see him early on the following day. On the 15th, at seven o’clock in the morning, we went to the Nawab, and immediately we were announced he asked us to enter his tent, where he was seated with two of his secretaries by him. ### [39.5.9](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.5.9) According to the custom of the country — where one goes with naked feet in slippers, without stockings, because wherever you enter you walk on a carpet, and sit in this country as in Turkey, and as our tailors do here, — the Nawab had the intervals between his toes full of letters, and he also had many between the fingers of the left hand. He drew them sometimes from his feet, sometimes from his hand, and sent his replies through his two secretaries, writing some also himself. After the secretaries had finished the letters, he made them read them ; and he then took them and himself affixed his seal, giving some to footmen, others to horsemen. For it should be remarked that in India all the letters which the Kings, Generals of Armies, and the Governors of Provinces send by footmen go much faster than by horsemen. The reason is that at every two leagues there are small huts, where two or three men employed for running live, and immediately when the carrier of a letter has arrived at one of these huts he throws it to the others at the entrance, and one of them takes it up and at once sets off to run. It is considered unlucky to give a letter into the hand of the messenger; it is therefore thrown at his feet, and he must lift it up. ### [39.5.10](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.5.10) It is still to be remarked that throughout India the greater part of the roads are like avenues of trees, and those which have not trees planted, have at every 500 paces small pieces of stone which the inhabitants of the nearest villages are bound to whiten from time to time, so that the letter carriers can distinguish the road on dark and rainy nights. While we were with the Nawáb he was informed that four prisoners, who were then at the door of the tent, had arrived. He remained more than half an hour without replying, writing continually and making his secretaries write, but at length he suddenly ordered the criminals to be brought in; and after having questioned them, and made them confess with their own mouths the crime of which they were accused, he remained nearly an hour without saying anything, continuing to write and to make his secretaries write. Then there entered into his tent many officers of the army who came to pay their respects with great humility, and to whose salute he replied only by an inclination of the head. ### [39.5.11](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39.5.11) Among these four prisoners who were brought into his presence there was one who had entered a house and had slain a mother and her three infants. He was condemned forthwith to have his feet and hands cut off, and to be thrown into a field near the high road to end his days. Another had stolen on the high road, and the Nawab ordered him to have his stomach slit open and to be flung in a drain. I could not ascertain what the others had done, but both their heads were cut off. While all this passed the dinner was served, for the Nawab generally eats at ten o’clock, and he made us dine with him. The sufra being removed, we took leave of the majority of the nobles who had also eaten with the Nawab; and when only two or three persons remained with him, we inquired through his interpreter if he had any commands for us, and whether he thought that our goods should be shown to the King. He replied that we might go to Golconda, where he would communicate with his son, to whom he would write on our behalf, and that his letter would arrive before us. He ordered sixteen horsemen to conduct us, and provide for us on the road whatever we required, up to a river 13 leagues from Gandikot, where no one is allowed to cross without having the Nawab's passport, so that the soldiers may not be able to desert. --- Source: [https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.39) · Pramāṇa