[Pramāṇa](https://indike.org/pramana/) › [Indian literature](https://indike.org/pramana/in) › [Dark Ages](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages) › [Travellers (1500–1858)](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel) › [Les six voyages de Jean-Baptiste Tavernier](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier) › [Travels in India (Ball)](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball) › 41 # Travels in India (Tavernier) 41: Route from Gandikot to Golconda Travels in India (Ball) 41 - **Language:** English ## Contents - [41.1](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.41.1) — 7 parts - [41.2](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.41.2) — 7 parts - [41.3](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.41.3) — 4 parts ### Route from Gandikot to Golconda ### [41.1.1](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.41.1.1) On the morning of the 16th \[September 1652\] we left Gandikot, accompanied by the majority of the gunners, who came with us to the first halt, carrying plenty of food with them ; and this day we only made 7 leagues, and slept at Cotepali. ### [41.1.2](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.41.1.2) On the 17th, after having breakfasted with the gunners, who then returned to Gandikot, we pursued our way with the sixteen horsemen of the Nawab, and having travelled 6 leagues we slept at a village named Coteen, beyond the river, which was then very full. As soon as we had crossed it the sixteen horsemen took leave of us ; and having offered their chief some rupees to buy tobacco and betel , we could not induce him to accept anything. The boats employed in crossing this river are like large baskets, covered outside with ox hides, at the bottom of which some faggots are placed, upon which carpets are spread to put the baggage and goods on, for fear they should get wet. As for the coaches and carts, they are tied by the pole and wheels between two of these baskets, but the horses are made to swim across, a man driving his horse from behind with a whip, and another in the basket holding it by the halter. As for the oxen, which, according to the custom of the country, carry the baggage, as soon as they reach the bank of the river and have been unloaded, they are driven in, and they cross the water without assistance. There are four men to each basket, one at each corner, who stand and row with paddles. Should one of them fail to keep equal stroke with the others, or that they do not all keep time, the basket turns three or four times round, and the current carrying it down, it descends much lower than the spot where it was intended to land. ### [41.1.3](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.41.1.3) On the 18th \[September\], after a march of five hours, we arrived at Morimol. On the 19th we made 9 leagues, and halted at Santesela. On the 20th we made 9 leagues more, and slept at Goremeda (Goodymetta). On the 21st, after six hours of marching, we passed the night at Kaman. It was a frontier town of the kingdom of Golconda, before the conquest of that of Carnatic by the army of Mir Jumla, of which I have spoken in the preceding chapter. On the 22d we travelled 7 leagues, and slept at Emelipata. At about half way we met more than 4000 persons, both men and women, and more than twenty pallankeens, each of which contained an idol. They were ornamented with gold, brocade of gold and velvet, with fringes of gold and silver, and some of these pallankeens were carried by four men, others by eight, and others by twelve, according to the size and weight of the idols. On each side of the pallankeens was a man with a large round fan of about 5 feet in diameter, made of beautiful ostrich and peacock feathers of different colours. The handles of these fans were 5 or 6 feet long, and covered with gold and silver nearly of the thickness of a French crown (écu). Each one strove to carry these fans in order to serve the idol by fanning it, to prevent the flies alighting on the face. Another fan, which is somewhat larger, and which had no handle, was carried like a shield. It was ornamented with feathers of different colours, ranged round little gold and silver bells. ### [41.1.4](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.41.1.4) The person carrying it walked close to the pallankeen, on the sunny side, in order to shade the idol, for to close the curtains of the pallankeen would have made it too hot. From time to time the bearer of the shield shook it in order to ring the bells, so that the idol might be amused. All these people with their idols came from Burhanpur and the neighbourhood, and were going to visit their great Ram Ram, i.e. their great god, who is in a pagoda in the territory of King of Carnatic. They had been fully thirty days on the road, and had to march fourteen or fifteen more before reaching the pagoda. One of my attendants who was from Burhanpur, and of the tribe of these very people, asked me to give him a holiday to go with them to accompany his gods, saying that a long time ago he had vowed to make this pilgrimage. I was obliged to give it, well knowing that if I did not give him the holiday he would himself take it, as he had many relatives in the troop. About two months later he rejoined me at Surat, and as he had served M. du Jardin and myself faithfully, I made no difficulty about re-employing him. On asking him some questions about the pilgrimage which he had just made, he related to me a thing difficult to believe, but which happened, as he said, in this manner. Six days after having left me, all the pilgrims had contemplated sleeping at a village; ### [41.1.5](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.41.1.5) and before reaching it they had to cross a river, which during the summer contains but little water and may be forded anywhere. But when it rains in India the water falls in such quantity that it appears like a deluge, and in less than an hour or two, small streams rise 2 or 3 feet in depth. The rain having surprised these pilgrims, this river increased so quickly that it was impossible to cross it that day. It is not necessary that those who travel in India should provide themselves with food beforehand, — especially is this the case with the idolaters, who do not eat anything which has had life — because even in the smallest villages they always find in abundance rice, flour, butter, milk, beans, and other vegetables, sugar and other sweetmeats, dry and liquid. This multitude of people, who had no food with them, were much astonished on arrival at the bank of this river to see it so high and swollen, and at not being able to cross in order to go to the village, which was on the other side, where they intended to make their halt. They had nothing to give their children to eat, and nothing was to be heard save lamentations among this crowd. In this extremity the chief of their priests sat down in the middle of them, and causing himself to be covered with a large sheet began to call those who wished for food to approach him. He asked each what he wanted, whether rice or flour, and for how many persons; ### [41.1.6](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.41.1.6) and with a large ladle which he held, lifting the corner of the sheet, he gave to all whatever they had asked for; so that this large number of people of 4000 souls was satisfied. It was not only my servant who related this history, but having subsequently made many journeys to Burhánpur, where I was known to the principal persons of the town, I made inquiry of many who had been on this pilgrimage, and all have sworn to me by their Ram Ram that it was true, which I nevertheless could not believe. On the 23d \[September\] we arrived at Doupar, after having travelled 8 leagues, and crossed many torrents. On the 24th we made but 4 leagues, and came to Tripanté, where there is a grand pagoda on a hill, the whole circuit of which forms a staircase and is faced with cut stone. The smallest stone of this staircase is 10 feet long and 3 feet wide, and in the pagoda there are many figures of demons. There is one, among others, which resembles a Venus standing upright, with many demons who surround her in lascivious attitudes, and this Venus and demons are made of a single piece of marble, but the carving is very coarse. On the 25th we travelled 8 leagues, and halted at Mamli (Murrayvamla). On the 26th we also travelled 8 leagues, and slept at Macheli (Maciiurla). ### [41.1.7](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.41.1.7) On the 27th we made only 3 leagues, because we had to cross a large river in baskets ; this generally occupies half a day. For when we reached the margin of the water we saw neither basket nor any other means of crossing. A man came, with whom we bargained for our passage ; and to prove if the money which we gave was good he made a large fire, and threw it into it. He did the same with that of all persons whom he took across. If amongst the money which he received he found a rupee which became somewhat black, one had to give him another, which he also heated ; then after he had proved that the money was good he called out to his comrades to bring the basket, which is generally concealed in some spot on the opposite side of the river. For these people are cunning, and seeing from afar off on which side the travellers are coming they send the basket to the other bank so as not to be compelled to take across any one without being paid. The money being counted, and the man who had received it having called his comrades, you see them carrying the basket on their shoulders to the edge of the water, and having launched it they come across to fetch those waiting on the other side. ### [41.2.1](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.41.2.1) On the 28th, having made 5 leagues, we halted at a place called Dabir-pinta. On the 29th, after a march of 12 hours, we slept at Holcora. On the 30th we made 8 leagues, and passed the night at Peridera. On Monday, the 1st day of October, after having made 10 leagues, we slept at Atenara. It is one of the houses of pleasure built by the Queen, mother of the King who reigns at present. It has many rooms, opening on a grand square which is in front of the house, for the accommodation of travellers. It should be remarked that in all the countries which we have just passed through, both in the Kingdom of Carnatic and the Kingdoms of Golconda and of Bijapur, there are hardly any physicians except for the Kings and Princes. As for the commonality, when the rains have fallen and it is the season to collect plants, in the mornings you see mothers of families going out from the towns and villages to collect the simples which they know to be proper for the diseases which occur in a family. It is true that in good towns there are generally one or two men who have some knowledge of medicine, who seat themselves each morning in the market-place or at a corner of the street in order to administer remedies, either potions or plasters, to those who come to ask for them. They first feel the pulse, and when giving the medicine, for which they take only the value of two farthings, they mumble some words between their teeth. ### [41.2.2](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.41.2.2) On the 2d of October we had only 4 leagues to make to Golconda. We went to stop at the house of a young Dutch surgeon of the King, named Pitre de Lan, whom M. Cheteur, the Batavian Envoy, had left at Golconda — the King having asked for him from him very earnestly. This Prince always suffered from a pain in the head, and the physicians had ordered him to be bled under the tongue in four places; but he was unable to find any one willing to undertake it — for, regarding surgery, the people of the country understand nothing about it. Before De Lan entered the service of the King he was asked if he could bleed well, to which he replied that it was the least difficult part of surgery. It was with great reluctance that the Batavian Envoy consented to leave him. But he did not wish to disoblige the King, and De Lan received 800 pagodas as salary. Some days after the Envoy’s departure the King summoned this surgeon and told him that he wished him to bleed him on the following day in four places under the tongue, as his physicians had directed, but that he should take care not to draw more than eight ounces. De Lan returning to the Court on the following day, was conducted into a room by two or three eunuchs, and four old women came to conduct him to a bath where, having undressed and washed him well, especially his hands, they anointed him with drugs and aromatics ; ### [41.2.3](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.41.2.3) and in place of his own clothes, which were of European make, they gave him a garment made according to the fashion of the country. They then took him to the King, where they brought basins of gold which the physicians who were present weighed ; these were to receive the blood. He then bled the King under the tongue in four places, and he did it so skilfully that, on weighing the blood with the basins, he found that he had drawn eight ounces exactly. The King was so satisfied with this operation that he gave him 300 pagodas , which are equal to nearly 700 écus. The young Queen and the Queen-dowager having heard of it, desired that he would come to bleed them, but I believe it was more from the curiosity they had to see him than for any need they had to be bled, for he was a young and well-made man, and probably in their lives they had not seen a stranger close — for from a distance the thing is not impossible, since from the place where they stay they are able to see without being themselves seen. De Lan was then brought into a chamber, where the same women who had taken him to the bath before he had bled the King uncovered his arms, which they washed well, and especially his hands, after which they anointed him with scented oil, as they had done when he went to bleed the King. That being done, they drew a curtain, and the young Queen putting out an arm through a hole, the surgeon bled her, and he afterwards did the same for the Queen mother. ### [41.2.4](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.41.2.4) The first bestowed on him 50, and the other 30 pagodas with some pieces of gold brocade. Two days after our arrival we went to salute the son of the Nawab, and were told that we could not speak to him on that day. The following day we returned, and as the same thing was repeated, some one told us that we might amuse ourselves in that manner for a long time, and that he was a young noble who scarcely ever left the presence of the King, and that on leaving the palace he shut himself up in his harem with his women. The surgeon, De Lan, seeing that our business might become protracted, offered to speak of it to the first physician of the King, who was also in his confidence, who, having shown much friendship for the Batavian Envoy and for De Lan himself could easily find an opportunity for obliging us. In short, as soon as De Lan had spoken to him he sent for us, in order to inquire what service he could render us. After he had saluted us, he caressed us a thousand times, and, having invited us to be seated, ordered some fruits of the country to be brought. He then inquired whence we had come, and upon what subject we desired to speak to the King; and having told him that we had some choice pearls which we wished to show to his Majesty, he asked us to show them to him the following day — this we did. ### [41.2.5](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.41.2.5) After he had seen them, he told us to replace them in their little bags, desiring us to close them with our seal, because all things presented to the King should be sealed with the seal of the merchant, and when the King has seen it he places his, in order that there may be no fraud. Thus we left the whole sealed packet in his hands, and he promised to show it to the King, and render us a good account of the service which he had undertaken in order to oblige us. ### [41.2.6](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.41.2.6) The following morning, very early, we went to hunt with De Lan, and on returning, at eight or nine o’clock a.m., we went to the river’s bank to see how the elephants of the King and the great nobles are washed. The elephant enters the water up to the belly, and lying down on one side takes water from time to time in its trunk and throws it upon the uncovered portion of its body in order to wash it well. The keeper then takes a kind of pumicestone, and rubbing the skin cleans it of all the dirt which has accumulated, upon it. Some believe that when this animal lies on the ground it cannot get up by itself; this is quite contrary to what I have seen, for as soon as the keeper has rubbed it well on one side he orders it to turn on the other, which the elephant does promptly, and after it is well washed on both sides it leaves the river and remains for some time on the bank in order to dry itself. Then the keeper brings a pot full of red or yellow paint, and paints lines on its forehead, around the eyes, on the chest, and on the back, rubbing it then with cocoanut oil to strengthen the nerves, some keepers finally adding false tinsel on the forehead. ### [41.2.7](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.41.2.7) On the 15th \[October\] the chief physician sent for us at two o’clock p.m., and returned us our pearls, carefully sealed with the King’s seal, which his Majesty had ordered to be placed upon them after he had seen them. He asked us the price of each, this we told him, and, as he had a eunuch with him who noted all down, the latter, being astonished at seeing pearls of such a price, remarked that we took the people of the court of the King of Golconda for persons without judgment or knowledge, and that he saw daily other precious things which were brought to the King. I replied sharply to the eunuch that I could well believe that he knew the price of a female slave better than that of a jewel, and so saying we shut up our pearls, and taking leave of the physician, returned to our lodging. We had no sooner arrived there than we sent to hire two coaches, each of us having already a bridle horse, and, on the following day, in the morning, we left Golconda, and were not able to travel more than a league and a half that day, because the Portuguese, English, and Dutch gunners of the King escorted us, and we spent our time in enjoying ourselves. ### [41.3.1](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.41.3.1) There is no need to repeat here what I have said at the beginning of this volume, and as we returned from Golconda to Surat by the same route as I took from Surat to Golconda, there being no other, — I have nothing to say except that, having left Golconda immediately after the reply which I made to the eunuch, the King, who did not hear of it for two days after our departure, sent four or five horsemen after us with orders to bring us back to court if they found us. We had already made five marches from Golconda, one of them being in the territories of the Great Mogul, when one of these horsemen came to us at sunset, his companions having remained on the frontier of the two kingdoms, rightly believing that as we had passed the boundary we would not be willing to return. This horseman showed us the order to make us return which he had received from the King, his master, who had told him that he would buy our pearls, and that he thought it very strange that we had left without saying anything. As we were no longer in the territory of Golconda the horseman could only urge us to return with him, giving us all possible assurances that we should be satisfied, and M. du Jardin had almost yielded; but I, knowing the atmosphere of the country better, told the horseman frankly that it was impossible, and after he had left I made my companion comprehend my reasons for being unwilling to return to Golconda. Having arrived at Surat, where a few days afterwards M. ### [41.3.2](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.41.3.2) du Jardin died of an effusion of bile, as I have related in my account of Persia, I made arrangements to go to Agra to see Shah Jahan, who was then on the throne. But the Nawab Shaista Khan, brother-in-law of the King, and Governor of the Province of Gujarat, of whom I have elsewhere spoken, sent to me from Ahmadabad, where he resided, one of the principal officers of his household, in order to tell me that having heard I had some beautiful jewels to sell he would be much pleased if I went to him, assuring me that he would pay for them as liberally as the King. I received this message during the illness of M. du Jardin, who died on the ninth day; and after we had rendered him our last duties at Surat, I went to Ahmadabad, where I at once transacted some business with the Nawab. As he understood all kinds of jewels perfectly well, we were at once agreed, and there was no difference between us save as to the nature of the payment. He gave me a choice of coins, and only stipulated that I should take golden or silver rupees, but this Prince giving me to understand that he did not wish that so large a sum should be seen leaving his house, suggested that I should take my payment in golden rupees, which would appear less. I agreed to what he advised, and he showed me some very fine gold, namely, old rupees which apparently had not seen the light for a long time. ### [41.3.3](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.41.3.3) But as the current price of the golden rupee is only 14 silver rupees, and he wished to pass his for 14½, or at the least for 14¼, this almost ended the transaction, as I made him understand that upon so large a sum I could not consent to lose a quarter upon every golden rupee. Finally, in order to satisfy him, I was obliged to take them at 14⅚ rupees of silver; for this Prince, who was otherwise magnificent and generous, showed himself a stern economist in matters of purchase. During my residence at Ahmadābād he sent me every day, to the house of the Dutch where I lodged, four silver dishes from his table containing pillau and choice meats, and one day when the King sent him ten or twelve men bearing apples, which had been received from Persia by way of Kandahar, he presented me with two dishes of them, which would have been worth at Ahmadābād, on account of their scarcity, 300 or 400 rupees. I gave a part of these fine fruits to the Dutch and to the ladies, and we amused ourselves well during my sojourn there. Moreover, Shāistā Khān gave me a khil'at complete, with sword and khanjar; this was worth more than 1000 rupees; and desiring to make me a further present of a horse, he asked me what kind I wished for. I replied that since he was pleased to give me my choice, I preferred a fresh and lively horse rather than an aged one. ### [41.3.4](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.41.3.4) He gave me one from his stud, which I mounted forthwith and took to the house of the Dutch, but not without difficulty, for it only went by jumps, and was so fiery, that on my allowing a young Dutchman to mount it, he, who thought he could ride it better than I, found himself promptly out of the saddle, being unable to manage the horse. Having communicated to Shaista Khan that an older one would be more suitable for me, he ordered his master of the horse to give me one which, although it had belonged to his father, was still fit for service, and had cost formerly more than 3000 écus. As I did not require it for my journeys I sold it for 400 rupees to a Frenchman, whom I was at the same time able to place in the service of this Prince, where he might have saved much money if he had not squandered it in debauchery. From Ahmadabad I returned to Surat, and from Surat I travelled to Golconda, and from thence to the mine to make my purchase of diamonds. On returning to Surat I arranged to go to Persia, but experienced great difficulties, which were followed by a voyage where I was exposed to dangers which I might have foreseen, and which I did little to avoid, never having feared dangers which travellers have to run both on sea and land, when it has been actually necessary for me to proceed forward. --- Source: [https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.41](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.41) · Pramāṇa