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Travels in India (Tavernier) 43: Return from Surat to Hormuz, and how the author found himself engaged in a very rough and dangerous naval combat, from which he escaped without accident.

Travels in India (Ball) 43

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English

Return from Surat to Hormuz, and how the author found himself engaged in a very rough and dangerous naval combat, from which he escaped without accident.

43.1

While on my return to Surat from my journey to the diamond mine, I learned that war had been declared between the English and Dutch, and that the latter would not send any more vessels to Persia. The English also said the same, because they had sent four which they expected to return every hour, and consequently I found the sea closed as regards my passage to Hormuz. I might have taken the land journey by Agra and Kandahar; but the road was very long, and it was impossible, or at the least very difficult, to travel by it on account of the Kandahar war, and because the armies of Persia and India were in the field. While afraid that I should be obliged to spend a long time in a place where I had no occupation, there arrived at Surat on the 2d of January five large Dutch vessels from Batavia; this rejoiced me exceedingly, being certain to obtain all I wanted from the Dutch Commander, who was a friend of mine. I may say, in passing, that in all my journeys there has never been one of these commanders (it is thus they call the chiefs of these settlements) who has not manifested consideration for me, and who has not been pleased to have an opportunity of showing me kindness.

43.2

I have also sought on all occasions to serve them, and especially when I went to the mine, by purchasing diamonds for them with private money of which they did not wish the Company to know anything, because it is forbidden to them to embark in private trade, and moreover they understood but little about the purchase of precious stones. But although these small services which they asked me to render them had been without profit, that did not save me from being subjected one day, on account of one of them, to some unpleasantness at Batavia, from which I did not escape without trouble, as I shall hereafter describe in the sequel of my history. I have also been very careful in all the places where the Dutch have settlements, and where I made any sojourn, to contribute as far as possible to the amusement of their ladies. As I never came from Persia to India without bringing good wine and fine fruits, and always had some one with me who understood cooking better than the Dutch in India, and knew how to make good soup and to bake, I entertained them often with collations, where pigeons in pyramids, flavoured with pistachios, were not lacking. All the amusements of the country, which I have sufficiently described, followed these small collations; and the ladies gave me to understand that they were much pleased with these parties, to which I invited them with their husbands.

43.3

The Commander of Surat being, as I have said, a friend of mine, offered me a passage upon whichever I pleased of the five vessels which had arrived from Batavia; but, on the other hand, pointed out the risk which I ran of meeting the English, and of being engaged, in that event, in a combat, which would be unavoidable. My friends also begged me to consider the great danger to which I exposed myself. But all that they could say to me was of no avail, and rather than lose the time uselessly at Surat, where I had nothing to do, I was firmly resolved to embark. As the Dutch vessels were men-of-war rather than merchant craft, the Commander ordered three to be unloaded as quickly as possible, and sent them in advance with instructions to seek the four English vessels which he knew ought to be on their return from Persia, laden with goods, and consequently less in a condition to fight than vessels which were not. The two others followed three or four days afterwards, this interval being required by them in order to ship supplies for all five.

43.4

I embarked in one of these two vessels which left last, and having set sail on the 8th of January, we arrived on the 12th before Diu, where we found the three other vessels which had preceded us. Immediately a council of war was held to consider what direction we should take to meet the English, whom we believed had already reached Persia; but they had gone but a short distance, only having left Diu two days before the arrival of the three first Dutch vessels. It was settled that we should go to Sindi, and that, with anchors up, each vessel approaching Diu as near as it could, should fire off all its cannon at the town. As soon as the inhabitants perceived that we were sailing towards the town they took flight, only daring to fire two shots at us. After the discharge of all the guns, we set our course for Sindi, where we arrived on the 20th of the same month, and at once a boat was sent on shore, the English and Dutch each having a house there. Our Admiral was informed that they daily expected the four English vessels, which were to embark about 200 bales of goods then ready on the seashore ; and upon these tidings it was resolved to remain there at anchor till the 10th of February ; but that, if by that time they did not appear, we should put to sea again and seek for them in Persia. On the 2d of February, at break of day, we perceived some sails, but owing to their great distance were unable to make them out, and still less to go to meet them, the wind being contrary.

43.5

Some believed at first that they were fishing-boats, but little by little, according as they approached, having the wind astern, we recognised that they were the English vessels, which advanced to attack us, upon the information which they had received, as we subsequently learned, from some fishermen that the Dutch vessels were simple frigates, of which they expected to make an easy capture. It is true that they had not yet seen such small Dutch vessels, and having been built expressly for fighting, they had not high bulwarks, and so appeared small externally, but were otherwise of great strength. Our “ Admiral ” had forty-eight pieces of cannon, and in case of necessity was able to accommodate up to sixty, and had more than 120 men. Towards nine o’clock — the English, who advanced with all sails set, not being far off — in order not to lose time in raising the anchors, we cut cables and each one set himself to do his duty. But the wind, as I have said, being directly contrary, we were unable to approach them. As they had thereby all the advantage on their side with the aid of the wind, they came in good order, and always stem on; and their Admiral and Vice-Admiral came at length so close to the side of the Dutch Admiral that the English Admiral was caught by an anchor on the side of our Admiral.

43.6

Not to conceal the fact, our Admiral showed but little courage in this encounter, for instead of boarding then and there, the occasion being so favourable, he cut the cable in order to free his vessel. All the ports were so well closed that from outside one could not say how many cannon there were. But after the English had made their first discharge, and our Admiral had returned it, which was much more effective, the English, seeing the number of his guns and the crowd which appeared on the deck, began to lose heart, and the wind proving favourable, drew off. However, the English Vice-Admiral having reloaded his guns, came skilfully to the vessel on which I was. Our Captain reserved his fire until we were nearly alongside one another, notwithstanding the loss of ten men which we had sustained. When we were not more than a pistol-shot off we let him have a discharge from all our guns, which broke his foremast. The two vessels coming in contact, our Captain was the first to board, and, accompanied by many brave men with hatchets, they cut all the ropes. While the two vessels were close to one another the sub-pilot and I fired a cannon-shot so effectively into the cabin of the English Captain that the bullet set fire to some powder cartridges which had been placed there. This unforeseen fire caused the English to fear that the conflagration increasing would envelop all their vessel ;

43.7

and our Captain, who feared the same thing, commanded his crew to return into our vessel, where he ordered the English to follow ten by ten, and then immediately drew off. The courage of the crew being revived, they found means to put out the fire of the English vessel, in which ten or twelve of our sailors were left ; but our Captain, who had acquired much glory in this action, died at the end of two or three days of his wounds. In the meantime another of our vessels vigorously attacked a large English ship of about thirty guns which held aloof, and had already damaged it badly, when the vessel upon which I was went to assist in sending it to the bottom, by giving it a whole broadside, which completely disabled it from further defence. The English Captain seeing himself lost, immediately ran up the white flag and asked for quarter, which was granted him. The carpenters did their best to close up the holes made by the cannon, the vessel having been pierced in many places ; but seeing themselves deserted by the sailors, who rather than aid them preferred to drink the Shiraz wine, of which they had a quantity in the bottom of the hold before being taken by the Dutch, they left their work and went to drink with them.

43.8

The Dutch having descended into their boats to the number of thirty or forty, in order to take possession of the English vessel, and not seeing any one on deck, went below, where they found the sailors, who, not thinking of their death, which was closer than they supposed, drank one another’s health. The Dutch being no wiser, and not knowing the condition of the vessel, which was on the point of foundering, began to drink with them, and some moments afterwards the vessel went to the bottom. All perished miserably together, both the victors and the vanquished, without any one being saved except the English Captain and two French Capuchins, who, seizing the opportunity while these brutes made themselves drunk, descended into a boat, and cutting the rope by which it was attached to the vessel, came to the one in which I was, where they were well received. Our master pilot then took charge, the Captain, as I have said, being badly wounded, and he at once sent these persons to the Admiral, to dispose of them as might seem good to him. The following day the Admiral sent to invite me to his vessel, where all the Captains had to assemble to render their thanks to God for the victory which they had achieved over their enemies. We afterwards dined with him, and the Capuchin Fathers being of the company, he told me that, as they were of my country, they might, if they preferred it, go to the vessel in which I was, and he would issue orders that they should be well treated ;

43.9

this was done, and I took them with me the same evening, giving them, as far as I was able, whatever was necessary for their comfort. The vessels which go from Persia to India are generally laden with wine and money, and that which went to the bottom carried more than the others ; this was the reason why it held aloof, not joining in the fray. This was a great loss, which might have been avoided if the Dutch had had more courage and more prevision ; and the English Admiral, seeing the misfortune which had happened to one of his vessels, joined his own with another, and they took flight together. For indeed, to say the truth, the want of enterprise on the part of the Dutch Admiral and the other Captains caused them to miss the certain capture of these fugitives ; and it would have been an easy victory if they had known how to profit by their opportunities.

43.10

This combat was not finished without my life having been in jeopardy, more particularly from a cannon-shot which struck two Dutchmen who were close to me, and a splinter of the vessel cut open the head of another and carried away a part of my coat, so that I was covered with the blood of these Dutchmen who were slain at my side. The combat being over, we returned to the anchorage at Sindi ; but a strong wind having arisen, and the sea being very high, we were obliged to go to moorings 6 leagues higher on the eastern coast, where we remained till the 20th of the same month ; we occupied this time in the care of the sick, and many of the English died of their wounds there. At length having reached the anchorage at Sindi, both in order to obtain water and some stores, and also for the purpose of raising the anchors which we had left behind, we remained there till the 28th, and after a pleasant cruise landed at Gombroon on the 7th of March. My first cares when I was out of the vessel were to return thanks to God for having delivered me from this danger, and from many others which I had undergone in my previous travels, and I still offer Him my daily thanksgivings for the same.