[Pramāṇa](https://indike.org/pramana/) › [Indian literature](https://indike.org/pramana/in) › [Dark Ages](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages) › [Travellers (1500–1858)](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel) › [Les six voyages de Jean-Baptiste Tavernier](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier) › [Travels in India (Ball)](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball) › 87 # Travels in India (Tavernier) 87: Concerning diamonds, and the mines and rivers where they are found; and especially of the Author's Journey to the Mine of Ramulkota. Travels in India (Ball) 87 - **Language:** English ## Contents - [87.1](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.87.1) — 7 parts - [87.2](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.87.2) — 7 parts - [87.3](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.87.3) — 7 parts ### Concerning diamonds, and the mines and rivers where they are found; and especially of the Author's Journey to the Mine of Ramulkota. ### [87.1.1](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.87.1.1) The diamond is the most precious of all stones, and it is the article of trade to which I am most devoted. In order to acquire a thorough knowledge of it I resolved to visit all the mines, and one of the two rivers where it is found; and as the fear of dangers has never restrained me in any of my journeys, the terrible picture that was drawn of these mines, as being in barbarous countries to which one could not travel except by the most dangerous routes, served neither to terrify me nor to turn me from my intention. I have accordingly been at four mines, of which I am about to give descriptions, and at one of the two rivers whence diamonds are obtained, and I have encountered there neither the difficulties nor the barbarities with which those imperfectly acquainted with the country had sought to terrify me. Thus I am able to claim that I have cleared the way for others, and that I am the first European who has opened the route for the Franks to these mines, which are the only places in the world where the diamond is found. ### [87.1.2](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.87.1.2) The first of the mines which I visited is situated in the territory of the King of Bijapur in the Province of Carnatic, and the locality is called Ramulkota, situated five days’ journey from Golconda, and eight or nine from Bijapur. The fact that the two Kings of Golconda and Bijapur were formerly subject to the Mogul, and were then only Governors of the Provinces which they acquired by their revolt, caused it to be said, and makes it said still by some people, that the diamonds come from the Kingdom of the Great Mogul. It is only about 200 years since this mine of Ramulkota was discovered, at least so far as I have been able to ascertain from the people of the country. All round the place where the diamonds are found the soil is sandy, and full of rocks and jungle, somewhat comparable to the neighbourhood of Fontainebleau. There are in these rocks many veins, some of half a finger in width and some of a whole finger ; and the miners have small irons, crooked at the ends, which they thrust into the veins in order to draw from them the sand or earth, which they place in vessels ; and it is in this earth that they afterwards find the diamonds. But as the veins do not always run straight, and some ascend, while others descend, they are obliged to break the rocks, always following the direction of the veins. ### [87.1.3](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.87.1.3) After they have opened them out, and have removed the earth or sand which may be there, they then commence to wash it two or three times, and search in it for whatever diamonds it may contain. It is in this mine that the cleanest and whitest watered diamonds are found ; but the evil is that in order to extract the sand more easily from the rocks they strike such blows with a heavy iron crowbar that it fractures the diamonds, and gives rise to flaws. It is for this reason that so many thin stones come from this mine, for when the miners see a stone in which the flaw is of some size, they immediately cleave it, that is to say split it, at which they are much more accomplished than we are. These are the stones which we call thin (“foible”), which make a great show. If the stone is clean they do not do more than just touch it with the wheel above and below, and do not venture to give it any form, for fear of reducing the weight. But if it has a small flaw, or any spots, or small black or red grit, they cover the whole of the stone with facettes in order that its defects may not be seen, and if it has a very small flaw they conceal it by the edge of one of the facettes. But it should be remarked that the merchant prefers a black point in a stone to a red one. When there is a red one the stone is roasted, and the point becomes black. ### [87.1.4](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.87.1.4) This trick was at length so well understood by me that when I examined a parcel of stones which came from this mine, and saw that there were facettes on any of them, especially small facettes, I was certain that there was some speck or flaw in the stone. There are at this mine numerous diamond-cutters, and each has only a steel wheel of about the size of our plates. They place but one stone on each wheel, and pour water incessantly on the wheel until they have found the “grain” of the stone. The “grain” being found, they pour on oil and do not spare diamond dust, although it is expensive, in order to make the stone run faster, and they weight it much more heavily than we do. I have known them to weight a stone with 150 livres of lead. It is true that it was a large stone, which still weighed 103 carats after it had been cut, and that the mill was like ours, the large wheel of which was turned by four blacks. The Indians are not of the same opinion as we are, in that they do not believe that weighting them causes flaws in the stones. If theirs do not receive any it is because they always have a small boy who, holding in his hand a very thin wooden spoon, anoints the wheel incessantly with oil and diamond powder. Added to which their wheel does not go so fast as ours, because the wooden wheel which causes the steel one to revolve is seldom more than 3 feet in diameter. ### [87.1.5](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.87.1.5) The Indians are unable to give the stones so lively a polish as we give them in Europe ; and this, I believe, is due to the fact that their wheel does not run so smoothly as ours. For, being made of steel, in order to grind it on the emery, of which it has need every twenty-four hours, it has to be taken off the tree, and it cannot be replaced so as to run as evenly as it should do. If they possessed the iron wheel as we do, for which one does not require emery but the file, it not being necessary to remove it from the tree in order to file it, they could give the stones a better polish than they do. I have stated that it is necessary to rub the wheel with emery or to file it every twenty-four hours, and it is desirable that it should be done every twelve hours if the workman is not lazy. For when the stone has run a certain time the part of the wheel where it has pressed becomes polished like a mirror, and if the place be not roughened by emery or the file, the powder does not stick to it. When it remains one does more work in one hour than in two when there is not any on the wheel. Although a particular diamond may be by nature hard, having, so to speak, a kind of knot, such as is seen in wood, the Indian diamond-cutters would not hesitate to cut such a stone, although our diamond-cutters in Europe would experience great difficulty in doing so, and as a general rule would be unwilling to undertake it; but one pays the Indians something extra for their trouble. ### [87.1.6](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.87.1.6) I come to the government at the mines. Business is conducted with freedom and fidelity. Two per cent on all purchases is paid to the King, who receives also a royalty from the merchants for permission to mine. These merchants having prospected with the aid of the miners, who know the spots where the diamonds are to be found, take an area of about 200 paces in circumference, where they employ fifty miners, and sometimes a hundred if they wish the work to proceed rapidly. From the day that they commence mining till they finish the merchants pay a duty of 2 pagodas per diem for fifty men, and 4 pagodas when they employ a hundred men. These poor people only earn 3 pagodas per annum, although they must be men who thoroughly understand their work. As their wages are so small they do not manifest any scruple, when searching in the sand, about concealing a stone for themselves when they can, and being naked, save for a small cloth which covers their private parts, they adroitly contrive to swallow it. ### [87.1.7](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.87.1.7) The chief of all the merchants who embark in mining one day pointed out to me one of these miners, who had worked for him for many years, and who had stolen a stone from him which weighed a mangelin, i.e. nearly two of our carats. He had concealed it in the corner of his eye, but it was taken from him as soon as the theft was discovered. In order to prevent these knavish tricks there are always twelve to fifteen watchmen employed by the merchants to see that they are not defrauded of anything. ### [87.2.1](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.87.2.1) If by chance a stone is found which weighs above 7 to 8 mangelins, it is taken to the master of the mine, who by way of recompence gives a sarpo, which is a piece of cotton cloth to make a turban, of the value of 25 to 30 sols, and generally with it half a pagoda in silver, or otherwise a pagoda, when rice and a plate of sugar are not given. The merchants who go to the mine to buy, remain in their dwellings, and every morning at from 10 to 11 o’clock the masters of the miners, after they have dined (for the Banians never leave their houses till they have washed and eaten), take their diamonds to show to them. If the parcels are large, and contain many stones of the value of from 2000 up to 15,000 or 16,000 écus, they leave them, confiding them to the foreign merchant for seven or eight days or more in order that he may examine them with care. When the stones have been examined, and are returned by the merchant, if they suit him he should conclude the transaction at once, otherwise the owner of the stones wraps them in a corner of his waistband, his turban, or his shirt, and departs, so that one never sees the same stones again, or at least they are mixed with others, should the miner return in order to bring another parcel. When the transaction is concluded the purchaser gives an order for payment on the Shroff or person who issues and receives bills of exchange. ### [87.2.2](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.87.2.2) If you have agreed to pay in three or four days, and delay longer, you have to pay interest at the rate of per cent per month. Most frequently, when the merchant is known to be solvent, a bill of exchange on Agra, Golconda, or Bijapur is preferred, but more especially one upon Surat, where, as it is the most famous port in India, the dealers desire to purchase the commodities which come in vessels from foreign countries, and which are suitable for their wants. It is very pleasant to see the young children of these merchants and of other people of the country, from the age of ten years up to the age of fifteen or sixteen, assemble every morning under a large tree which is in the square of the town. Each has his diamond weights in a little bag suspended on one side, and on the other a purse attached to his waistband, which contains as much as 500 or 600 gold pagodas. They seat themselves there awaiting the arrival of any one who wishes to sell diamonds, either of the place itself or of some other mine. When any one brings a stone he places it in the hands of the eldest of these children, who is, so to speak, the chief of the band ; he looks at it and places it in the hand of him who sits next. Thus it goes from hand to hand till it returns to the first one without any one saying a word. ### [87.2.3](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.87.2.3) He then asks the price of the article, in order to purchase, if possible; and if by chance he buys at too high a price he is responsible. In the evening these children count up what they have purchased, and after examining the stones separate them according to their water, weight, and cleanness. Next they price each as they expect to dispose of them to strangers, and by this they see how far the value exceeds the cost of purchase. They then carry them to the great merchants who always have a number of parcels to match, and all the profit is divided among the children, save only that their chief receives a quarter per cent more than the others. Young as they are, they know the value of all the stones so well that if one of them has bought a stone and is willing to lose a half per cent, another gives him cash for it. Seldom can you show them a parcel of stones, containing a dozen, where they will not discover among them four or five having some flaw or some point or some defect at the angles. It remains to be said that these Indians have much regard for strangers, and especially for those whom they call Franks. Immediately on my arrival at the mine I went to call upon the Governor of the place, who also rules the Province on behalf of the King of Bijapur. ### [87.2.4](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.87.2.4) He is a Muhammadan, who having embraced me, assured me I was welcome—not doubting that I had brought gold with me (for at all the mines of Gol- CONDA and Bijapur they speak but of new pagodas, which are golden coins), and that I had only to place it in my lodging, where it would be safe, and he would be responsible for all I had. Besides the servants whom I brought with me he allotted me four others, and commanded them to keep a watch on my gold by day and night, and to obey all my orders. Shortly after I had left him he sent to recall me, and on my return : “ I sent to seek you,” he said, “ in order to assure you again that you have nothing to fear — eat, drink, and sleep, and have a care for your health. I have forgotten to tell you to be careful not to defraud the King, to whom 2 per cent is due on all your purchases. Do not attempt,” he continued, “to do as some Muhammadans did who came to the mine, and combined with the merchants and some brokers to withhold the royalties of the King — saying that they had only purchased to the value of 10,000 pagodas, while they had invested more than 50,000.” I then commenced to purchase, and saw that there was a sufficiently large profit to be made, all being 20 per cent cheaper than at Golconda, in addition to which, one sometimes, by chance, met with large stones. ### [87.2.5](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.87.2.5) One day towards evening a Banian, poorly clothed, having indeed only a band round his body and a miserable handkerchief on his head, came towards me politely and seated himself by my side. In this country one pays no attention to dress, and a person who has but a miserable ell of calico about his loins may sometimes have a good parcel of diamonds concealed. I, on my part, treated the Banian with civility, and after he had been for some time seated by me he asked me through my interpreter if I wished to buy some rubies. The interpreter told him to show them to me, upon which he drew a number of small rags from his waistband, in which he had about a score of rings mounted with rubies. After I had examined them I said that they were too small for me and that I sought large stones. Nevertheless, remembering that I had been asked by a lady at Ispahan to bring her a ruby ring of the value of about 100 écus, I bought one of his rings which cost me nearly 400 francs. I knew well that he did not value it at more than 300 francs, but willingly risked the additional 100 francs in the belief that he had not sought me to sell the rubies only, and because I understood from his manner that he desired to be alone with me and my interpreter in order to show me something better. ### [87.2.6](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.87.2.6) As the time of prayer of the Muhammadans approached, three of the servants appointed by the Governor left, and the fourth remaining to wait upon me, I found an excuse for getting rid of him by sending him to buy bread, where he remained a sufficiently long time. For all the people of this country being idolaters, content themselves with rice, not eating bread, and when a person wishes for it it is necessary to have it brought from a distance, from the fortress of the King of Bijapur, where the Muhammadans reside. The Banian, seeing that he was alone with me and the interpreter, after having, with a good deal of mystery, removed his headdress, untwisted his locks, which, according to the usual custom, were bound round his head. Then I observed a small rag appearing amongst these locks, in which there was concealed a diamond, weighing 48 of our carats, of beautiful water and of cabuchon shape, three-quarters of the stone clear, save for a small flaw which was on one side and appeared to penetrate some distance into the stone. The remaining quarter was full of flaws and red spots. ### [87.2.7](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.87.2.7) While I examined the stone, the Banian, seeing the attention which I gave to it, said, “Do not trouble yourself now, you will see it to-morrow morning at your leisure when you are alone. When a fourth of the day has passed,” it is thus that they speak, “you will find me outside the town, and if you wish for the stone you will bring the price of it with you,” and he then stated the amount he wanted for it. For it should be stated en passant that after this fourth of the day the Banians, both male and female, disappear into the city or town where they dwell, both for the purpose of satisfying the ordinary necessities of nature and for the purpose of bathing, as well as for the prayers which their priests require them to repeat. The Banian having named this hour—because he did not wish any one to see us together—I did not fail to go in search of him, and carried with me the price he had asked, less by 200 pagodas, which I kept apart, in reserve. But in the end, after we had bargained for a short time, I gave him 100 pagodas extra. On my return to Surat I sold the stone to a Dutch captain, from which transaction I earned a fair profit. ### [87.3.1](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.87.3.1) Three days after I had bought this stone a messenger arrived from Golconda who had been sent by an Apothecary, named Boete, whom I had left at Golconda to receive and take care of a part of my money, and in the event of the Shroff paying in rupees, he was to change them into golden pagodas. The day following that upon which he had received payment, he was seized by so serious a disorder in the stomach that he died in a few days. By the letter which he wrote to me he informed me of his sickness, and that he had received my money, which was all in my chamber in sealed bags; but, as he did not believe that he would survive two days, he exhorted me to hasten my return, because he did not think that my money would be safe in the hands of the servants whom I had left with him. Immediately on receipt of this letter I waited on the Governor in order to take leave of him, at which he was astonished, and inquired if I had expended all my money. I replied that I had not spent half of it, and that I had still upwards of 20,000 pagodas. He then said that if I wished he would afford me an opportunity of investing it, and that I should certainly not lose upon what he would enable me to buy. He further asked if I was willing to show him my purchases, although he was not ignorant of their extent, since those who sold were obliged to make a return of all to him, on account of the charge of 2 per cent duty which is due to the King by those who buy. ### [87.3.2](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.87.3.2) I showed him then what I had bought, and told him what they had cost me. This agreed with the book of the Banian who received the King’s dues. ### [87.3.3](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.87.3.3) At the same time I paid him the 2 per cent for the King’s dues, having received which he remarked that he perceived that the Franks were persons of good faith. He was the more persuaded of this, however, when, drawing forth the stone of 48½ carats, I said, “Sir, this is not in the Banian’s book, and there is no one in the town who knows that I have bought it, nor would you yourself had I not told you. I do not wish to defraud the King of his rights — here is what is due to him on account of the price paid by me for this stone.” The Governor appeared altogether surprised and much edified by my proceeding; he praised me much, and said that this was an action worthy of an honest man, and that there was not another merchant in the country, whether Muhammadan or Hindu, who would act in the same manner if he believed that no one was aware of what he had purchased. Upon this he summoned the richest merchants of the place, and having told them the facts, ordered them to bring with them the best stones they possessed. This was done by three or four of them, and thus I expended my 20,000 pagodas in one or two hours. The transaction having been completed and the money paid, he told the merchants that as they had dealings with an honest man they ought to present me with a souvenir. This they did with a good grace, giving me a diamond worth nearly 100 écus. As for the Governor himself, he gave me a turban and waistband. ### [87.3.4](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.87.3.4) I have to record a rather singular and curious account of the manner in which the Indians, whether they are idolaters or Muhammadans, make their sales of all kinds of commodities. All passes in complete silence and without any one speaking. The seller and the buyer are seated facing one another, like two tailors, and one of the two opening his waistband the seller takes the right hand of the buyer and covers his own with the waistband, under which, in the presence of many other merchants, who occupy themselves sometimes in the same manner, the sale is accomplished secretly without any one having cognisance of it. For the seller and buyer talk neither by means of their lips nor their eyes, but only by the hand, which they manage to do in the following manner:—When the seller takes the whole hand of the buyer that means 1000, and as many times as he presses it so many thousands of pagodas or rupees, according to the coin which may be in question. When he takes only five fingers that means 500, and when he takes only one it means 100. In taking only the half up to the middle joint, 50 is meant, and the end of the finger up to the first signifies 10. This is the whole of the mystery employed by the Indians in their sales, and it often happens that in the same place, where there are many people, a single parcel will change hands five or six times without those present knowing for how much it has been sold on each occasion. ### [87.3.5](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.87.3.5) As for the weight of the stones, one need not be deceived if he does not buy in secret. For when one buys them in public there is a man specially employed by the King to weigh diamonds. who receives no fees from private persons. When he names the weight, both buyer and seller accept his statement, since he has no interest in favouring either party. Having completed my business at the mine, the Governor gave me six horsemen, in order that I might traverse, with greater security, the tract under his authority, which extends up to a river separating the Kingdom of Bijapur from that of Golconda. The transit of this river is very difficult, because it is wide, deep, and rapid, and there is neither bridge nor boat. In order to cross it the same contrivances are used as those of which I have elsewhere spoken for the passage of certain Indian rivers, alike for men as for their goods, carriages, cattle, and horses. A round vessel of 10 or 12 feet in diameter made of branches of osier, like our hampers, and covered outside with ox hides, serves in place of a boat, and I have described in the same place how the passengers adjust themselves. Good boats or a bridge over this river might be provided, but the Kings of Golconda and Bijapur do not allow them, because the river serves to separate the two Kingdoms. ### [87.3.6](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.87.3.6) Every evening the boatmen on both banks are obliged to report to the two sub-governors, who reside on either side, at about a quarter of a league from the river, an exact statement of the people, beasts of burden, and merchandise which have crossed during the day. When I arrived at Golconda, three days had elapsed since the death of Boete, the apothecary, and the room where I had left him had been sealed with two seals — one being of the Kázi, who corresponds to the Chief Justice, and the other of the Sháh-Bandar, who is the Provost of the merchants. An officer of justice watched the door of the chamber together with the servants whom I had left with the defunct. Immediately on my arrival the fact was announced to the Kázi and the Sháh-Bandar, and forthwith they sent to seek for me. ### [87.3.7](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.87.3.7) After I had saluted them, the Kázi asked me whether the money which was in the chamber of the defunct was mine, and how I could prove it. I said I had not any better proof to give him than the letters of exchange which I had given to the Shroff, and that since my departure he had by my orders paid the sum to the defunct; that I had instructed the latter in case the Shroff paid in silver to change it into pagodas, and forward them to me. Upon this reply which I made to them, they sent to call the two Shroffs who had paid my bills, to know if it was true, and as they averred that it was, the Kázi forthwith ordered his lieutenant to go and open the door of the room, and see if the seals were intact on all the bags. He did not leave till he had my assurance that I had found the full sum, and nothing was wanting. I returned with him to make the same declaration to the Kázi and the Sháh Bandar, and to thank them for their trouble, and it ended by my signing a document which they had written in Persian, in which I testified my satisfaction. The lieutenant told me that I must pay the charges of the burial of Boete, and those due to the persons who had placed the seals, as well as those of the officer who had kept guard at the door of the chamber. These all amounted to but 9 rupees, or 4½ écus of our money. One would not have got off so easily in most places in Europe. --- Source: [https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.87](https://indike.org/pramana/in.darkages.travel.tavernier~en-ball.87) · Pramāṇa