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Manasara Series (I. A Dictionary of Hindu Architecture; II. Indian Architecture according to Manasara-Shilpashastra; III. Manasara on Architecture and Sculpture: Sanskrit Text; IV. Architecture of Manasara: Translation; V. Architecture of Manasara: Illustrations; VI. Hindu Architecture in India and Abroad; VII. An Encyclopaedia of Hindu Architecture) v2.c14.s37: Chapter L: The Ornaments of the Body and Articles of Furniture (Bhūshaṇa-lakshaṇa-vidhāna)

Mānasāra Series (I. A Dictionary of Hindu Architecture; II. Indian Architecture according to Mānasāra-Śilpaśāstra; III. Mānasāra on Architecture and Sculpture: Sanskrit Text; IV. Architecture of Mānasāra: Translation; V. Architecture of Mānasāra: Illustrations; VI. Hindu Architecture in India and Abroad; VII. An Encyclopaedia of Hindu Architecture) v2.c14.s37

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Chapter L: The Ornaments of the Body and Articles of Furniture (Bhūshaṇa-lakshaṇa-vidhāna)

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In the first verse it is announced that the chapter is devoted to a description of the ornaments of gods and kings. But in reality only the first part of the chapter deals with ornaments proper, and the remaining portion deals with certain miscellaneous articles of furniture, such as lamp-posts, fans, mirrors, swings, and so forth.

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The first part is called 'ornaments of the body' (*aṅga-bhūshaṇa*), and the second 'external ornaments' (*bahir-bhūshaṇa*).

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Ornaments proper are here divided into four classes, namely, *patra-kalpa*, *chitra-kalpa*, *ratna-kalpa*, and *miśrita*. All these are suited to the deities. The emperor or universal monarch (*chakravartin*, *sārvabhauma*) can put on all these ornaments excepting the *patra-kalpa*. The *adhirāja* and *narendra* can wear both the *ratna-kalpa* and the *miśrita*. The *miśra-kalpa* is prescribed for all other kings.

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The *patra-kalpa* ornaments are so called, because they show foliated decoration. The *chitra-kalpa* kind consists of floral and foliated designs, precious stones, and *nāṭaka*. The *ratna-kalpa* variety is made of flowers and jewels. The *miśra-kalpa* decoration consists of leaves and jewels, and, in short, a mixture of all others. These four kinds, it should be observed, are specially made for the images of gods and kings only.

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The following is a list of the personal ornaments mentioned in the course of the chapter :

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*Kirīṭa*—a diadem, a crown.
*Śiro-vibhūshaṇa*—a head-ornament.
*Chūḍāmaṇi*—a crest-jewel.
*Kuṇḍala*—an ear-ring.
*Tāṭaṅka* (or *tāḍaṅka*)—a kind of ear-ornament.
*Makara-bhūshaṇa*—an ear-pendant decorated with *makaras* (*makarāṅkita-kuṇḍala*).
*Kaṅkaṇa*—a bracelet.
*Keyūra*, *kaṭaka*—an armlet worn on the upper-arm.
*Valaya*—an armlet worn round the upper-arm (*bāhumūle*) or on the fore-arm (*prakoṣhṭha*).
*Maṇi-bandha-kalāpa*¹—a jewelled ornament worn on the fore-arm.
*Kiṅkiṇī-valaya*—a bracelet (or anklet) fitted with little bells.
*Aṅgulīyaka*—a finger-ring.
*Ratnāṅgulīyaka*—a jewelled finger-ring.

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¹ Cf. *muktā-kalāpa* (Kumāra-sambhava I, 43).

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.Hāra [¹] / Ardha-hāra a string of pearls worn round the neck. *Mālā*—a garland or necklace hanging down from both shoulders. *Vana-mālā*—a garland of wild flowers (?). *Nakshatra-mālā* ²—a necklace of 27 pearls. *Dāman*—a garland or string worn round the shoulders. .Stana-sūtra / Suvarṇa-sūtra a cord or chain worn round the breasts. *Pura-sūtra*—a cord or chain worn round the chest. *Udara-bandha*—a girdle worn round the waist. *Kaṭi-sūtra*—a cord or chain worn round the loins. *Mekhalā*— a girdle, a belt. *Suvarṇa-kañchuka*— a golden cuirass (or bodice?). *Nūpura*—an anklet. *Valaya*—a bracelet. *Pāda-jāla-bhūshaṇa*—a net-like ornament worn on the feet.³

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¹ According to *Brihat-saṁhitā*, LXXXII, 32, a chain of 108 strings is styled a *hāra* and a chain of 64 strings an *ardhahāra* KERN'S *Verspr. Geschr.* vol. II, p. 101

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² A *nakshatramālā* (lit. a star-cluster) consists of 27 pearls in accordance with the number of *nakshatras* or lunar mansions. Cf. *Brihat-saṁhitā*, LXXXII, 34

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³ A few more terms of uncertain meaning are mentioned, namely: *viśeshika* (=*tilaka*?), *bālapaṭṭa*, *chūlikā*, *pūrima*, *kesakūṭaka* and *mallikā*

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The following articles, which are reckoned to belong to the ‘external’ ornaments (*bahirbhūshaṇa*), are described in great detail : (1) the *dīpa-daṇḍa* (lamp-post) ; (2) the *vyajana* (fan) ; (3) the *darpaṇa* (mirror) ; (4) the *mañjūshā* (basket, chest, box) ; (5) the *dolā* (swing or palanquin) ; (6) the *tulā* (balance) of kings ; and (7) the *pañjara* (cage), *nīḍa* (nest) for domestic animals and birds.

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The lamp-posts (*dīpa-daṇḍa*)⁴ are of two kinds, the stationary, placed in front of the house, and the movable. The former are made of wood, iron or stone, the latter of wood or iron. They may be square, octagonal, or circular in shape. The *vedikā* (platform) or the pedestal at the bottom of these is generally shaped like a lotus. Lamp-posts generally taper from the bottom upwards. Various other parts and also the mouldings of lamp-posts are described in detail. Their measurements are also given.

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⁴ In literature we find the evidently synonymous expression *dīpavṛiksha* (*lit.* lamp-tree). *Mahābh.* XII, 7204 ; XIV, 1737. *Rām.* (ed. GORRESIO) II, 5, 18 ; *Buddhacharita* (ed. COWELL), V, 44. Monumental lamp-pillars of stone, now-a-days designated by the name of *dīpdān*, are found especially in the South of India. Cf. FERGUSSON, *History of Indian and Eastern Architecture*, Revised edition, vol. I, pp. 347 sq. and II, 81.

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The fan-post (*vyajana-daṇḍa*) as well as the fan itself is described in a like manner. These posts are made of timber or iron, but the fans appear to be made of leather.

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Nine alternative measurements are prescribed for the mirror, namely, from 5 (or 6) *aṅgulas* up to 21 (or 22) *aṅgulas*. Mirrors should be quite circular (*suvṛtta*) with the edge a little raised. The surface must be perfectly bright, the rim being decorated with linear ornament (*rekhā*) and the reverse with the figures of Lakshmī and others. An account of the various parts is given in detail.

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Three kinds of *mañjūshas* are described in detail. They are made of either timber or iron, and are square, rectangular or circular in shape. They generally consist of one, two or three compartments or chambers (*koshṭha*). The *parṇa-mañjūshā* looks like a box or trunk. The *taila* (oil) *mañjūshā* is apparently a receptacle for oil. It does not differ from the other, except in its greater height. The third kind is called *vastra-mañjūshā* and is easily identified with a wardrobe or linen-chest. Its breadth is said to vary from one to three cubits, the height and length being proportionate to the breadth.

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The word *dolā* means both a swing and a palanquin. But as the description opens with the statement that the height of the post or pillar (*pāda*) varies from three to eight cubits, there can be little doubt that the passage refers to a swing. We may assume that the *phalaka*, which is repeatedly mentioned in this connection, must be the swing-board. The swing is said to be used by both gods and men.

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The balance¹ consists of the horizontal balancing rod or beam, the strings by which the scale pans are suspended, and the scale pans themselves. The two pans are made of iron, the rod of timber or iron, and the *jihvā* (lit. tongue) and the *toraṇa* (lit. arch) are always made of iron. The various parts of the balance are described minutely together with their measurements.

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¹ From the description given in the text it may be conjectured that 'the royal balance' in question was meant to be used by kings in performing the ceremony of having themselves weighed against gold and precious stones which were afterwards distributed among the Brāhmaṇas. This ceremony, known as *tulā-purusha-dāna*, was performed on certain special occasions, such as the coronation, or on the day of a solar or lunar eclipse, or on New Year's day. Cf. A. H. LONGHURST, The *tulā-purusha-dāna* monument at Hampi. *Annual Report Archaeological Survey of India* for 1912—13, pp. 142 qqs, plates LXXXIV.

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A large portion of the chapter is devoted to a description of cages (*pañjara*). A number of birds and other animals are enumerated, and the size of the cage in which they are kept is given, the measurements admitting in each instance of nine different varieties. The following is a complete list :—

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| | Size of cage | Increment |
| *Mṛga-nābhi-biḍāla* (musk cat?) ... | 1—2 *hastas* | 3 *aṅgulas*. |
| *Śuka* (parrot) ... ... | 9—23 *aṅgulas* ¹ | 2 ,, |
| *Chātaka* (rains-cuckoo or cuculus melanoleucus) | 7—23 ,, | 2 ,, |
| *Chakora* (partridge or perdix rufa) ... | 7—23 ,, | 2 ,, |
| *Marāla* (a crow-phesant,? a goose or duck) | 7—23 ,, | 2 ,, |
| *Pārāvata* (turtle dove) ... ... | 7—23 ,, | 2 ,, |
| *Nīlakaṇṭha* (roller) ... ... | 25—73 ,, | 6 ,, |
| *Kuñjarīya* (ground-man)... ... | 5—21 ,, | 2 ,, |
| *Khañjarīṭa* (?) ... ... | 7—23 ,, | 2 ,, |
| *Kukkuṭa* (cock) ... ... | 15—31 ,, | 2 ,, |
| *Kulāla* (phasianus gallus) ... | 15—31 ,, | 2 ,, |
| *Nakula* (mongoose, viverra ichneumon) ... ... | 11—27 ,, | 2 ,, |
| *Tittiri* (francolin partridge) ... | 7—23 ,, | 2 ,, |
| *Godhāra* (?) ... ... | 9—25 ,, | 2 ,, |
| *Vyāghra* (tiger) ... ... | 1½—3½ *hastas* | 6 ,, |

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¹ Evidently there is a mistake here in the figures, which would yield only eight varieties of size. Another mistake seems to the size of cages, which in many cases is absurdly small

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