Ancient Indian Costume c5.s3: Headgear and Hairstyles
Ancient Indian Costume c5.s3
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Headgear and Hairstyles
c5.s3.1
Women generally covered their heads with the *uttariya*, worn straight or crosswise, often resplendent with beautiful borders. The hair, centrally parted, was made into one or two plaits or in a large knot at the back. The *uttariya* could be worn simply hanging down at the back or secured to the head with a head band, or with one end arranged in a fan at the top of the head. Skull caps were sometimes worn under or over the *uttariya* to keep it in place, or at times it could be decorated with a fringe or pendants. Helmets too are seen as headgear for Phrygian women who probably served in the king's bodyguard. These Amazons wore a long-sleeved tunic with tight-fitting trousers and a Phrygian cap which was conical and had ear flaps. In India, the Amazons wore in addition, the crossed-at-chest belt *vaikaksha*, with metal buckles, shield, and sword. Turbans of decorated cloth were sometimes used by women.
c5.s3.2
As regards male headgear, in the early Mauryan period there is no trace of the turban *mauli*, but in the Sunga period we find great emphasis on this form of male headdress. These were remarkable head-dresses in which the hair itself was often twisted into a braid along with the turban cloth. This twisted braid was then arranged to form a protuberance at the front or the side of the head but never at the centre top, as this style could be used only by priests. Over the turban a band was sometimes used to hold it in place. In addition, decorative elements like a jewelled brooch or a *jhalar* (fringe) could be attached to the turban, or one end folded in pleats and tucked in like a fan.