Ancient Indian Costume c5.s8: Style

Ancient Indian Costume c5.s8

Language: English

Style

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Forceful sculptures carved during the Mauryan-Sunga period in the first century B.C. in the north at Bharut and Sanchi give us a feeling of superhuman power. The drapery hangs in heavy folds and the jewellery is massive and somewhat coarse. Turbans coil and twist with the hair to form protuberances, with serpentine armlets and anklets closing in on strong limbs. The head veils of the women are voluminous; long-beaded aprons and crossed scarves at the chest suggest fruitful abundance, and necklaces and strings with amulet boxes suspended on the breasts indicate a fear of the evil and dark forces around. With the coming of the Sunga dynasty there is greater emphasis on detail in the elaborate jewellery of the women, which is more elegant and finer and adorns the figures seen in soft relaxed postures.

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cotton with fluted ends in front, worn in *kachcha* style, that is between the legs

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**Uttariya** upper cloth of printed cotton worn crosswise on the head

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**Kayabandh** embroidered flat cloth band, *pattika* style, worn in a looped knot with fringed ends

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**Mekhala** six-stringed hip belt of gold or silver beads

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**Lambanam** long necklace made of chains held at intervals by flat bands, *phalakahara* style

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**Kantha** short necklace of five strings of beads in gold or silver

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**Karnika** trumpet-shaped earrings

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**Kangan** ten bracelets adorning each hand

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**Baju Band** decorative armlets worn on upper arms

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**Kara** anklets of twisted wire worn on both ankles

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1. DONOR FIGURE

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(*Bharut*)

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**Sitara** star-shaped forehead ornament of gold or silver with a stamped pattern

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**Antariya** lower cloth, calf length, of fine **2. YAKSHI** *(Baranmara)*

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attached to a cord at the waist

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**Uttariya** there are two: one has an embroidered border and is worn crosswise over the head with a *jhalar* (network fringe) at the forehead; the other is draped across the back and over both arms

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**Kayabandh** flat cloth band, *pattika* style, worn in a looped knot

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**Mekhala** four-stringed bead hip belt

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**Patka** a strip of woven beads tucked in at the front of the waist reaching the ankles

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**Atkan** bead necklace worn aslant over the left shoulder and under the right arm

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**Kangan** five bead bracelets on each wrist

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**Baju Band** three rows of beads on upper arms

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**Karnika** trumpet-shaped earrings

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**Lambanam** long necklace of beads

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**Kantha** short necklace of beads

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**Antariya** *langoti* style small strip of cloth drawn between the legs and

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**Sankla** anklets made of thick chains

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3. KUVERA YAKSHA

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(*Bharut*)

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**Antariya** *kachcha* style, both equal ends being taken between the legs after knotting in front; these ends are then held diagonally, fluted and tucked into the waist at the back to hang between the legs up to the ground

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**Uttariya** *upavita* fashion, worn across the chest and over the left shoulder

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**Kayabandh** *muraja* style, drum-headed knobs at the ends, tied in a looped knot

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**Baju Band** armlets with elaborate incised pattern

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**Kangan** several bracelets on each wrist

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**Karnika** trumpet-shaped earrings or *karnaphul*

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**Mauli** turban of printed cloth held by decorative bands wound over the top knot of hair and at the side of the head

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4. DONOR FIGURE

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(*Bharut*)

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**Antariya** worn in same style as in Fig. 3 except that only one long end is tucked in at the back, the other is a finely pleated apron tucked into the centre front of the *antariya*

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**Uttariya** looped at the chest and thrown back over both shoulders

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**Kayabandh** embroidered flat cloth band, *pattika* style

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**Lambanam** *phalakahara* style necklace

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**Baju Band** simple leaf-patterned armlet

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**Kangan** three bracelets of beads on each wrist

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**Karnika** trumpet-shaped earrings, *karnaphul*

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**Mauli** turban in which the long hair and cloth are twisted together, wound around the head and made into a top knot in front, the cloth then continues to be wound around the head and fixed with a separate band **5. WARRIOR** *(Bharut)*

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**Antariya** knee-length, worn in *kachcha* style with fluted end tucked in at centre front

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**Tunic** one of the earliest depictions of the cut-and-sewn garment; it has short sleeves and a round neck, full front opening with ties at the neck and waist, and is hip length

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**Boots** fitting to the knees

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**Headband** tied at the back over short hair

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*A broad flat sword with cross straps on the sheath is suspended from the left shoulder.*

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6. DONOR FIGURE

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(*Bharut*)

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**Uttariya** printed or woven in a lozenge design in stripes, with a border; it is worn crosswise on the head and thrown back hanging to the waist like a pouch

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**Kantha** short necklace with granulated design

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**Lambanam** in *phalakahara* style

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**Hair ornament** jewelled and worn below centre parting of the hair

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7. COURTIER

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(*Bharut*)

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long hair is twisted into a top knot at the left around which the turban is wound so as to completely cover it, an ornamental heart-shaped brooch is fixed on the right front and a decorative band visible at the forehead is tied under the turban

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8. COURTIER

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(*Bharut*)

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turban is wound around the long hair tied in a top knot; to fix the turban in place a decorative band has been used; large disc-type earrings and two strings of beads adorn the neck

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9. NECKLACE

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*(Bharut)*

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**Kantha** short necklace called *tilari* (three-stringed); each string consists of graduated pearls and a central gem

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*four-stringed: chaulari* *five-stringed: paklari* *seven-stringed: satlari*

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له

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10. GIRDLE

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*(Bharut)*

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**Mekhala** elaborate seven-stringed *saptaki*, the two outer strands are square, interspersed with rows of round and oval inlaid beads; with it are worn two rows of beads across and aslant the hips in gold or hard stone, and are early imitations of the strings of the red *rati* seeds that were originally worn; the *pattika*, a flat ribbon-shaped embroidered girdle of cloth of gold is also worn

Ancient Indian Costume c5.s8: Style

Style

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