Ancient Indian Costume c8.s5: Styles

Ancient Indian Costume c8.s5

Language: English

Styles

c8.s5.1

In the highly civilized Gupta empire, we find jewelled head-dresses, and striped muslin *lehngas* adding to the sensuous fullness of the body and lending it a free-flowing movement. The mood is relaxed, somnolent and languorous, with sheer floating scarves and shining radiant eyes accentuating the aura of dream-like delicacy. Pearl strands decorating the archways, and looped on diadems and around necks, further enhance the undulating movements of the graceful figures.

c8.s5.2

[Figure: 54. MAIDSERVANT

c8.s5.3

ends are passed between the legs, fluted and tucked in at back centre to fall to the ankles; one end has been tucked in under the *mekhala* and the other over it

c8.s5.4

Muktavali

c8.s5.5

necklace of one strand of small pearls (*haravsti*)

c8.s5.6

Keyura

c8.s5.7

worn on the upper arms—*baju*, cylindrical, inset with pearls and tied on with ribbons

c8.s5.8

Valaya

c8.s5.9

bracelet of filigree work

c8.s5.10

Mekhala

c8.s5.11

girdle at the hips is decorated with discs; a small frill of cloth hangs at the side which could be part of the end of the *antariya* pulled around from the back after tucking in, and tucked in again at the front

c8.s5.12

Kundala

c8.s5.13

simple ring-type earrings

c8.s5.14

Nupura

c8.s5.15

anklets are simple and cylindrical

c8.s5.16

Hairstyle

c8.s5.17

hair has been drawn back into one plait, with a few curls at the forehead; a fillet is worn and also a chaplet of flowers to which a semi-circular ornament has been attached on either side of the centre parting

c8.s5.18

Antariya

c8.s5.19

worn very short in *kachcha* style; after knotting at the centre both ends are passed between the legs, fluted and tucked in at back centre to fall to the ankles; one end has been tucked in under the *mekhala* and the other over it

c8.s5.20

*It is possible that she wears a short choli of very light material. She holds a fly-whisk (chauri).*

c8.s5.22

**Muktavali** several pearl necklaces of small and large pearls including one long strand which hangs between the breasts

c8.s5.23

**Valaya** one simple and one ornamental bracelet is worn on each wrist

c8.s5.24

**Keyura** armlet of filigree work festooned with pearls on upper arms

c8.s5.25

**Bali** ring-type earrings with pearls strung; a smaller simple ring is worn on the upper part of the ear

c8.s5.26

**Anguliya** ring worn on the little finger of the right hand

c8.s5.27

**Nupura** very simple anklet

c8.s5.28

**Kirita** a decorative tiara

c8.s5.29

**Hairstyle** elaborate, adorned with flowers and jewels, the hair being worn in a large bun at the nape

c8.s5.30

*The stool or short-backed chair (piddha) has turned wooden legs very similar to those available in most parts of India today. Covering it is a pearl studded or tie-dyed cross-shaped cloth. The large cushion at the back is covered with printed cloth and the cushion used as footrest has a pearl edge.*

c8.s5.31

**55. PRINCESS** (*Ajanta, Cave I*)

c8.s5.32

**Lehnga** the *antariya* has now become the *lehnga*; it is held first at the right hip then taken once around the body and tucked in tightly at the left hip in pleats or simply as in this figure

c8.s5.33

**Uttariya** of sheer material, thrown over the breasts

c8.s5.35

56. OLD WOMAN

c8.s5.36

(*Ajanta, Cave XVII*)

c8.s5.37

**Sari** an elongated form of the *antariya*, the left end is passed between the legs and tucked in at the back; the right and longer end is taken around the body and thrown over the left shoulder from the front and is visible in folds at the left

c8.s5.38

**Muktavali** two strings of pearls at the neck

c8.s5.39

**Valaya** simple bracelets, two at each wrist

c8.s5.40

**Kundala** ring-type earrings

c8.s5.41

**Hairstyle** drawn back and knotted

c8.s5.42

*She is carrying a flower garland.*

c8.s5.44

**57. VOTARY FIGURE** *(Ajanta, Cave II)*

c8.s5.45

**Ardhoruka** langoti type of patterned striped drawers—a short strip of cloth worn around the waist with an attached strip from the centre of the waist which is drawn up between the legs and tucked in at the back

c8.s5.46

**Choli** short blouse of diaphanous material

c8.s5.47

**Vaikaksha** two long strings of pearls crossed at the chest

c8.s5.48

**Muktavali** string of pearls at the neck

c8.s5.49

**Kundala** large disc-type earrings

c8.s5.50

**Uttariya** worn over the left shoulder

c8.s5.51

**Keyura** flat simple armbands

c8.s5.52

**Valaya** bracelet, one on each wrist

c8.s5.53

**Nupura** anklets of simple design

c8.s5.54

**Headgear** a striped scarf tied round the head and knotted at the back, tassels are visible behind the right shoulder; further back on the head is a decoration of leaves with a central motif probably tied around a chignon-type hairstyle

c8.s5.55

*She carries an offering and could be of foreign origin as the scarf on the head suggests.*

c8.s5.57

(*Ajanta, Cave I*)

c8.s5.58

**Ghagri** the early form of a skirt to the knees in which there is a drawstring (*nada*); the border of the woven silk material can be seen vertically down the centre

c8.s5.59

**Valaya** graded ivory or conch-shell ban-gles

c8.s5.60

**Hara** bead necklace

c8.s5.61

**Hairstyle** centre parting with chignon on nape decorated with ribbons; a wreath of leaves is worn around the head

c8.s5.63

59. MAIDSERVANT

c8.s5.64

(*Ajanta, Cave XVI*)

c8.s5.65

| **Ghagri** a simple skirt with drawstring (*nada*) | **Keyura** armlets with incised design |
| | **Valaya** bangles and pearl bracelets |
| **Pratidhi** breast-band tied at the back | |
| | **Kundala** large ring-type earrings |
| **Girdle** ornamented, worn over the skirt for additional support | |
| | **Hairstyle** worn shoulder-length and loose |
| **Vijayantika** necklace of strings of looped pearls with precious stones | |
| | *She carries a large palm-leaf fan.* |

c8.s5.67

(*Ajanta, Cave I*)

c8.s5.68

| **Cholaka** *choli*-type blouse with an apron front and V-neck made of *pulakabandha*—tie and dye cloth | **Valaya** simple bangles |
| | **Hairstyle** simple bun with flower wreath (*mala*) |
| **Antariya** *lehnga* style, of striped cloth | |
| **Kuṅdala** ring-type earrings | |

c8.s5.70

61. DANCING GIRL

c8.s5.71

*(Ajanta, Cave I)*

c8.s5.72

**Cholaka** fitted *choli*-type blouse with an apron front; the long sleeves are of dark red brocade, while the middle is of white silk, probably tied at the back with ribbons that are visible

c8.s5.73

**Antariya** *lehnga* style, is of silk with purple, green and yellow stripes with lozenge patterns in white

c8.s5.74

**Muktavali** three-stringed pearl necklace

c8.s5.75

**Hara** necklace of large beads

c8.s5.76

**Valaya** two simple and one ornamental bangle on each wrist

c8.s5.77

**Kancala Kundala** elaborate earrings with pendants

c8.s5.78

**Mukuta** tiara of gold

c8.s5.79

**Hairstyle** large bun at the nape with wreaths of flowers and several strings of pearls or gold chain (*sarasari*) wound around and held by brooches *(Ajanta, Cave I)*

c8.s5.81

**Cholaka** double jacket of *bandhni* (tie-dye cloth) the upper one with shorter sleeves in the *angarkha* style; the lower one is green in colour with longer sleeves

c8.s5.82

**Hara** two necklaces, both of beads with the central bead of a different shape

c8.s5.83

**Hairstyle** curly hair held back by a fillet

c8.s5.84

*Appears to be a foreigner as is evident from the simple hairstyle and lack of ornate jewellery. The angarkha is shown open, the left edge of the neckline fastening is curved to fit the inside right edge probably with ties as in the modern angarkha.*

c8.s5.86

**63. YASODA** *(Deogarh)*

c8.s5.87

**Angarkha** mid-thigh length tunic with left opening and bordered edge all around; it has long sleeves and a four-pointed hem in Persian style

c8.s5.88

**Ghagri** heavily gathered skirt tied at the hips with a *nada*

c8.s5.89

**Kantha** flat heavy short necklace

c8.s5.90

**Valaya** bangle on left wrist

c8.s5.91

**Mukuta** tiara-like ornament at the forehead

c8.s5.92

**Uttariya** worn over the head and left hanging behind the shoulders; it has a decorative border

c8.s5.93

**Hairstyle** probably a thick twisted roll of padding is fixed at the centre parting and held in place by tiny plaits of hair; this is still used to hold high the head-covering by some women of north India and gives an extremely regal effect to the head veil

c8.s5.94

*The covering of the head with the veil is possibly of Parthian/Scythian origin and is seldom seen at Ajanta.*

c8.s5.96

**64. MAID** (*Ajanta, Cave XVI*)

c8.s5.97

**Angarkha** long-sleeved tunic with probably a left side-opening running down to the pointed hem

c8.s5.98

**Hara** a simple chain

c8.s5.99

**Kundala** large ring-type earrings

c8.s5.100

**Uttariya** worn over the head and left hanging behind the shoulders in Parthian or Scythian style

c8.s5.101

**Hairstyle** as in Fig. 63

c8.s5.103

65. ATTENDANT

c8.s5.104

*(Ajanta, Cave I)*

c8.s5.105

**Robe** ankle-length in white material with a pale blue frill at the hem; it has tight sleeves and a collar; the hem of the sleeves and the edge of the collar are embroidered; there is a tiraz band trimming at the upper arm and floating ribbons at the back opening

c8.s5.106

**Headgear** a round cap of red material (broadcloth or velvet) with a white border of fur or wool and white plume at the centre

c8.s5.107

*This is often referred to as the Persian Embassy scene, but the figure appears to be a Turanian Tartar from Central Asia. Turanian Tartars were influenced in their dress by the Persians, as seen in the tiraz band, floating ribbons and round cap.*

c8.s5.109

66. KING

c8.s5.110

*(Ajanta, Cave XVII)*

c8.s5.111

**Antariya** short and striped worn in the *lehnga* style with a long end visible on the cushion

c8.s5.112

**Necklace** of gems with loops

c8.s5.113

**Suddha Ekavali** necklace of pearls with a central gem

c8.s5.114

**Keyura** elaborate armlets with loops suspended from a cylinder of filigree work

c8.s5.115

**Valaya** ornamental bracelet, one on each wrist

c8.s5.116

**Anguliya** ring on little finger

c8.s5.117

**Kundala** elaborate earrings

c8.s5.118

**Kirita** tiara of metal with ornamental discs and motifs

c8.s5.119

*Silk ties on necklace are visible at the right shoulder.*

c8.s5.121

**67. MINISTER** *(Ajanta)*

c8.s5.122

**Kancuka** indigenous simple round-neck tunic with long sleeves and a front opening; probably calf-length

c8.s5.123

**Uttariya** wrapped around the waist and thrown over the left shoulder in *upavita* fashion with the final end resting on the left arm

c8.s5.124

**Bali** simple ring-type earrings with pearl suspended

c8.s5.125

**Haravsti** large pearl necklace

c8.s5.126

**Torque** simple necklet

c8.s5.127

**Hairstyle** long hair combed back smoothly

c8.s5.129

68. CHAMBERLAIN

c8.s5.130

(*Ajanta, Cave XVII*)

c8.s5.131

**Kancuka** indigenous striped white tunic with long sleeves and a front open-ing; probably calf-length

c8.s5.132

**Chaddar** cloth decorated with a fish-scale pattern; worn over the left shoulder and under the right arm in *upavita* fashion

c8.s5.133

**Torque** necklet of twisted wire with beads

c8.s5.134

**Headgear** flat turban of twisted cloth held by ribbon bands at intervals, worn as a mark of office by the chamberlain *(Ajanta, Cave II)*

c8.s5.136

**Kancuka** mid-calf length tunic with four pointed ends, V-neck and long sleeves; the cloth is star-patterned

c8.s5.137

**Trousers** gathered in *churidar* style

c8.s5.138

**Headgear** skull cap

c8.s5.139

**Kayabandh** sash tied at the waist

c8.s5.140

*This kancuka has the four-pointed hem of the Kushan–Parthian under-tunic, which was common to all Scythian races including the Kshatrapas. The indigenous influence is in the choice of thinner and more decorative cloth used to suit the climatic conditions of India, and the rich way of life at court. The lack of jewellery would also denote a foreigner.*

c8.s5.142

70. KING AND QUEEN

c8.s5.143

*(Gupta gold coins)*

c8.s5.144

| **Chugha** close-fitting coat of the Kushans with a row of decorative buttons with fastenings at the centre; the opening in front is held together and the waist edge ends in a point at the centre | **Headgear** close-fitting cap |
| | **Earrings** button style |
| **Trousers** do not appear to have creases at the knee | *The queen is dressed in indigenous costume as seen in her antariya and uttariya, her hair is worn in a bun at the top of the head. From the Licchavi tribe, she wears nupura on the ankles.* |

c8.s5.146

71. HORSEMAN

c8.s5.147

(*Ajanta, Cave XVI*)

c8.s5.148

**Quaba** calf-length striped coat with pointed collar and *tiraz band* braid on upper arms; floating ribbon ties are visible at the back

c8.s5.149

*Probably a Turanian Tartar of Mongolian stock. Their costume is very similar to that of the Persians, from whom the tiraz band trimming, pointed collar and floating ribbon ties originated. Baggy trousers tucked into boots are probably worn.*

c8.s5.150

**Headgear** dome cap with band

c8.s5.151

**Belt** worn at the waist

c8.s5.153

72. FOOT SOLDIER

c8.s5.154

(*Ajanta, Cave XVII*)

c8.s5.155

**Cholaka** short jacket covering the chest with half-sleeves and a decorative braid at the hem and sleeve-edge

c8.s5.156

**Antariya** short and of striped material with a border

c8.s5.157

**Kangan** one bracelet on each wrist

c8.s5.158

**Hairstyle** shoulder length hair; wears no headgear

c8.s5.159

**Equipment** spear and rectangular, curved shield of rhinoceros hide

c8.s5.160

*Elephant riders and foot soldiers in the Gupta army wore a similar uniform. The former were sometimes more resplendent in gold-striped antariya and skull caps or fillets on their heads.*

c8.s5.162

*(Ajanta, Cave XVII)*

c8.s5.163

**Quaba** of foreign origin, this calf-length tunic has the Persian-type pointed collar and *tiraz band* braid trimming on upper arms

c8.s5.164

**Girdle** worn at the waist

c8.s5.165

**Kundala** disc-type earrings

c8.s5.166

**Hairstyle** drawn up in a large top knot

c8.s5.167

**Equipment** oval shield and curved sword

c8.s5.168

*Although, the costume is foreign the hairstyle, sword and earrings are indigenous. This was probably a foreign uniform adopted by the Gupta army.*

c8.s5.170

**74. BHIKKU** *(Ajanta, Cave XVI)*

c8.s5.171

**Antaravasa** this lower garment was normally 36" wide and 2½ yards long and worn around the waist where it was secured by a girdle or tucked into the *nada* (drawstring)

c8.s5.172

**Uttarasanga** the upper garment is thrown over the shoulder in a loop *(Gwalior Museum)*

c8.s5.174

**Hairstyle** hair is worn with a centre parting which is covered by a decorative ornament attached to the *mukuta* (tiara) at the forehead and the jewelled braid at the left side of the nape; the braid then continues like a fillet around the crown of the head

c8.s5.175

**Mukuta** highly decorative in embossed gold or silver, has little pendants suspended from it at the forehead

c8.s5.176

**Kundala** large wheel-like earrings

c8.s5.177

**Haravsti** one strand of large pearls

c8.s5.178

**Torque** twisted wire necklace of Celtic origin

c8.s5.180

76. FEMALE VOTARY

c8.s5.181

*(Ajanta, Cave VI)*

c8.s5.182

**Hairstyle** hair is worn in a large pompadour style on the crown of the head with tiny curls along the forehead

c8.s5.183

**Ratnajali** from the elaborate tiara-like ornament around the head, strands of pearls form a net over the hairstyle; there is a central ornament at the forehead from which are suspended strands of pearls

c8.s5.184

**Mala** large flowers above the ear are used as further ornamentation to the hairstyle

c8.s5.185

**Kundala** very large ring-type earrings

c8.s5.186

**Bali** small earrings with suspended pearls; worn higher up on the ear

c8.s5.187

**Suddha Ekavali** pearl necklace with a gem at the centre; has ribbon ties

c8.s5.189

77. KING

c8.s5.190

(*Ajanta, Cave I*)

c8.s5.191

| **Hairstyle** short hair | **Valaya** bracelets of different kinds at the wrists |
| **Mukuta** tiara of floral motifs from which pearls are looped and suspended | **Sutra** simple chain at the neck |
| **Bali** earrings from which separate drops of pearls and sapphires are suspended | *He wears a brown striped silk garment. He is making an offering of lotus flowers to the Buddha on a tray which appears to be covered or painted in a design.* |