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Ancient Indian Costume c9: Glossary

Ancient Indian Costume c9

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Glossary

c9.1

| *ajina* | skin of antelope or goat |
| *ajinayajnopavita* | a deer skin worn over the left shoulder by Hindu ascetics |
| *angada* | armlet like a coiled snake |
| *angarkha* | tunic with side fastening |
| *anguliya* | finger ring |
| *antariya* | lower garment |
| *ardhoruka* | *langoti* type of drawers worn by women |
| *atkan* | bead necklace |
| *baju band* | armlet for upper arm |
| *bali* | ring-type earring with pearl strung on it |
| *bashylk* | Scythian pointed felt cap |
| *bhairnivasani* | earliest form of skirt, a tubular cloth held up in gathers around the waist by a girdle |
| *bindi* | forehead ornament |
| *calanika* | antariya worn between the legs and then wrapped around the hips |
| *chaddar* | a large shawl |
| *chalana* | loose or close-fitting trousers |
| *channavira* | crossbelt on chest |
| *chattra* | umbrella, symbol of royalty |
| *chattradhara* | attendant who carried the royal umbrella |
| *chaulari* | four-stringed necklace |
| *chauri* | fly whisk, made from yak's tail |
| *cinacola* | sleeveless metal armour, probably of Chinese origin |
| *cholaka* | short blouse with apron front |
| *choli* | short blouse |
| *chudamani* | lotus-shaped ornament for hair, its petals ornamented with pearls and precious stones |
| *chugha* | coat worn over tunic by Kushans |
| *dehri* | disc-type earring |
| *dhammilia* | an elaborate hairstyle consisting of flowers, pearls and jewels |
| *dhanush* | bow |

c9.2

| *ekavali* | single-strand pearl necklace |
| *gada* | heavy club |
| *ghagri* | simple stitched skirt |
| *gurnakuntala* | a style of wearing hair (male), shoulder length, curled and hanging loose to the shoulder, sometimes held in place with a head band or a string of pearls |
| *hara* | necklace |
| *haravsti* | large pearl necklace |
| *hemasutra* | chain for neck made of gold with precious stones in the centre |
| *hemavaikaksha* | two long wreaths of flowers or pearls crossed at the chest, worn mainly by women |
| *himru* | intricately woven brocade of today with cotton for its main warp |
| *hiranya* | gold |
| *jalaka* | metallic wire gauze used in making coats of mail |
| *jamiwar* | intricately woven brocade of today, of silk floral design on a wool background |
| *jatabhara* | heavy, bundled top-knot of matted locks worn by Hindu ascetics |
| *jhangia* | short drawers |
| *jimiki* | large earrings with tassels |
| *kabaribandha* | simple hairstyle in which the hair is twisted into a chignon or bun |
| *kachcha* | a style in which the *antariya* is drawn up between the legs to form a trouser-like garment |
| *kakshyabandha* | a thick jewelled roll worn aslant at the hips |
| *kalabaku* | many-stringed cummerbund |
| *kambala* | blanket |
| *kanaka-kamala* | a full-blown lotus design earring set in rubies, still used in south India |
| *kancala-kundala* | elaborate earrings with pendants |
| *kanci* | hip girdle with bells |
| *kancuka* | tunic |
| *kangan* | bracelet |
| *kantha* | short necklace, broad and flat |
| *kantopa* | cap with flaps covering the ears |
| *kara* | simple ring-type anklet |
| *karnika* | earring |
| *karnaphul* | flower-shaped earring |

c9.3

| *kaseyyaka* | high quality cotton or silk |
| *katisutra* | string for suspending the hip belt |
| *kausheya* | a type of tussar silk |
| *kayabandh* | cummerbund, sash |
| *kesapasa* | hairstyle in which the hair was looped close to the head in an elongated knot |
| *keyura* | armlet for upper arm |
| *khadga* | sword |
| *khadgavahini* | a female attendant to royalty who carried the royal sword on her shoulder |
| *khinkhwab* | brocade of silk and gold or silver wires interwoven |
| *kushalaka* | waist cloth of Buddhist monks |
| *kinkini* | anklet with small bells suspended |
| *kirita* | crown or tiara |
| *kosha* | sheath for sword |
| *kundala* | simple ring or circle earring |
| *kurta* | under-shirt of Parthian, Kushan, Scythian origin, with four-pointed hem and ruched sleeves |
| *lambanam* | long necklace |
| *langoti* | a narrow strip of cloth suspended from a waist cord and drawn up between the legs |
| *lehnga* | style in which the *antariya* is wrapped like a skirt around hips |
| *makarika* | ornament for the hair in the shape of a fish-crocodile |
| *mala* | garland of flowers |
| *malai* | gold coin necklace of south India |
| *mangamalai* | gold coin necklace of south India set with gems |
| *maninupura* | anklets of jewelled beads |
| *manjira* | hollow anklets which made a tinkling sound in movement |
| *mauli* | turban |
| *maulibandha* | an elaborate style of wearing the turban |
| *maulimani* | jewelled clasp for the turban |
| *mekhala* | girdle or hip belt |
| *muktajaia* | a net of pearls worn over the chignon to decorate the hair |
| *muktavali* | necklace of single strand of pearls |
| *muktayajnopavita* | sacred thread made of pearls |
| *mukuta* | crown |
| *muraja* | a sash with drum-headed knots at the ends |

c9.4

*nada* drawstring through skirt for holding it up *nicola* designed bedcovers *nishka* necklace of coins *nivi bandha* the preliminary knot made to tie the *antariya* at the waist *nupura* anklet *opasa* fillet for hair *padapatra* garter-like decorative ornament for the thigh *paklari* five-stringed necklace *patka* a decorative panel of cloth tucked in at the waist over the *antariya* *patra* a begging bowl *pattabandha* ornamented gold strip for holding the turban in position *pattika* flat, ribbon-shaped elaborately embroidered cummerband *phalaka* slab-like gems *phalakahara* necklace with slab-like gems at intervals *phalakavalaya* bracelet with slab-like gems set into it *piddha* low chair or stool *pracchadapata* designed bedcover *pratidhi* breast-band *praveni* plait of hair *pulakabandha* tie-dyeing of Gujarat and Rajasthan *putalya* contemporary gold coin necklace of Maharashtra *rallaka* rugs or floor carpets *rasana* girdle made up of linked chains or strung with pearls, beads, or precious stones *ratna* precious stones *ratnajali* a net of braid and pearls worn around chignon by women *ratnanguliya* finger-ring studded with precious stones *ratnavali* jewelled net worn around the chignon *rupya* silver *samghati* cloak of Buddhist monks *samkaksika* buckled belt of Buddhist monks *sankla* thick chain-type anklet *satlari* seven-stringed necklace *sirastra* helmet *sirastrajala* helmet *sitara* star-shaped forehead ornament for women *sraja* garland of flowers *stanamsuka* Persian-influenced knee- or thigh-length tunic

c9.5

| *suddha-ekavali* | pearl necklace with gem at the centre |
| *sutra* | chain for neck |
| *suvarna* | gold |
| *talapatra* | earring which originated from a small strip of palm leaf rolled and inserted into the lobe |
| *tamra* | copper |
| *tarahara* | a single strand of big pearls |
| *tilari* | three-stringed necklace |
| *tiraz band* | ornamented braid decorating the upper part of the sleeve |
| *torque* | a simple necklace of gold wire originally of Celtic origin |
| *tulakoti* | heavy anklets with the two ends enlarged at their meeting point |
| *tulapansi* | light-weight cotton from central India |
| *upavita* | upper garment worn over left shoulder and under right arm |
| *urna* | a symbol of perfection in the Buddha, a tuft of hair between the eyebrows |
| *ushnisa* | turban |
| *uttarasanga* | upper cloth used by Buddhist monks and nuns |
| *uttariya* | unstitched upper garment or scarf |
| *vaikaksha* | straps crossed at the chest |
| *valaya* | bracelet |
| *valkala* | bark-strip garments worn by Hindu ascetics |
| *vethaka* | simple sash |
| *yajnopavita* | sacred cord |
| *yashti* | necklace of gems and gold beads with large central bead |