History of Indian and Eastern Architecture v1.c17.s2: Polonnaruwa.
History of Indian and Eastern Architecture v1.c17.s2
- Language
- English
Polonnaruwa.
v1.c17.s2.1
¹ In inscriptions the city is called Pulastipura and Kalingapura, and its modern name is Topâwæwa or Topâwa. As, however, that here given is the only one by which it is known in English literature, it is retained.
v1.c17.s2.2
Although very much more modern in date, and consequently less pure in style, the ruins at Polonnaruwa are scarcely less interesting than those of the northern capital to which it succeeded. They form a link between the ancient and modern styles at a time when the Buddhists had ceased to exist, or at least to build, on the continent of India, and, when properly illustrated, will enable us to speak with confidence of much that we find beyond the Ganges. Much of what we know of these ruins is due to the publications of Sir Emerson Tennent,² which, though most valuable contributions, were far from exhausting the subject. According to this authority, the principal ruins extend in a line nearly north and south for about a mile and a half from the palace to the Gal Vihâra, and comprise two dâgabas, besides a number of smaller edifices. The greater part seems to have been erected during the reign of Parâkrama Bâhu I., 1153-86, though, as the city became the capital of the kingdom in the 9th century, it is probable that investigation may yet reveal some of earlier date; while, as it was not finally deserted till 1293, some of them may also be more modern.
v1.c17.s2.3
² 'Christianity in Ceylon,' Murray, 1850; 'An Account of the Island of Ceylon,' 2 vols., Longmans, 1859. Mr. Lawton's and Captain Hogg's photographs added considerably to the precision but not to the extent of our knowledge. Mr. Smither's volume on Anurâdhapura is by far the most important addition yet made to the architecture of Ceylon. Mr. Bell's 'Progress Reports' are a mine of information, but require to be digested and arranged with fuller and better architectural illustrations. As yet the survey of Polonnaruwa is not published, but Mr. Bell has very kindly supplied me with a proof of his 'Annual Report' for 1903, which, with three preceding, is devoted chiefly to the remains at that place.
v1.c17.s2.4
If not the oldest, certainly the most interesting group at Polonnaruwa is that of the rock-cut sculptures known as the Gal Vihâra. They are not rock-cut temples in the sense in which the term is understood in India, being neither residences nor chaitya halls. On the left, on the face of the rock, is a figure of Buddha, seated in the usual cross-legged conventional attitude, 15 ft. in height, and backed by a throne of exceeding richness: perhaps the most elaborate specimen of its class known to exist anywhere. Next to this is a cell, with two pillars in front, on the back wall of which is another seated figure of Buddha, but certainly of a more modern aspect than that last described. Beyond this is a figure standing in the open air, now supposed to represent Ananda—the cousin of Buddha;³ and still further to the right another of Buddha, lying down in the conventional attitude of his attaining Nirvâna. This figure is 46 ft. long, while the standing one is only 23 ft. high.¹ These Nirvâna figures are rare in India, but there is one in the most modern cave at Ajantâ, No. 26, 23 ft. 3 in. long (Woodcut No. 29 on page 101), and others in the latest caves at Nâsik and Salsette. None of these, however, so far as I know, ever attained in India such dimensions as this.
v1.c17.s2.5
³ This is a modern local designation: except perhaps in China, Ananda scarcely appears in Buddhist iconography.
v1.c17.s2.6
¹ There are two colossal statues of Buddha, one at Sæseruwa, in the North-Western Province, 39 ft. 3 in. high, the other at a place called Aukana, to the east of the Kalâwæwa tank, in the North Central Province, 39 ft. high. They are extremely similar to one another, and—except in dimensions and position of the arms—to that at the Gal Vihâra.—‘Sessional papers,’ xl., 1904, pp. 6 and 12. A descriptive inventory of the monuments of Ceylon is a great desideratum.
v1.c17.s2.7
Not far south of the Gal Vihâra stands one of the principal religious groups of the city, consisting first of the Jetawanârâma Temple, built of brick, 170 ft. long by 70 ft. wide, with walls 12 ft. in thickness covered with chunam, and still about 70 ft. high. It was divided into two halls, the inner or shrine being wider than the outer or eastern one, and containing an erect statue of Buddha built of brick, 58 ft. in height, much injured. The entrance is flanked by two polygonal turrets, on the bases of which were dwârpâlas or yakshas in high relief, and the highly carved stone steps at the entrance were each 20 ft. long. On the north side of it is the Kiri Dâgaba—about 70 ft. in diameter and nearly 100 ft. in height—with two smaller topes, standing on raised platforms; the whole space, measuring 577 ft. by 500 ft., was apparently at one time entirely filled with objects of religious adoration. The whole certainly belongs to the age of Parâkrama Bâhu I. It was, however, built of brick, and plastered, which gives it an appearance of inferiority even beyond what is due to the inferior style of that age.
v1.c17.s2.8
Next in importance to this is the Rankot Dâgaba, about 500 yards south of the Jetawanârâma, 186 ft. in diameter, and of about the same in height. This, though only half that of some of those in the older capital, is still larger than any known to exist on the continent of India. It is ascribed to Kîrtî Nissanka Malla, a Kalinga prince, at the end of the 12th century, and is in fair preservation. Its base is surrounded, like those in Burma, by eight small brick shrines—two at each of the cardinal points—having conical roofs, and between each pair is an *âsana*, or seat for a Dhyâni Buddha.
v1.c17.s2.9
At some five furlongs south from this stands the Sât Mahal Prâsâda (Woodcut No. 137), which is one of the most interesting buildings of the place, as it is one of the most perfect representations existing of the seven-storeyed temples of Assyria.
v1.c17.s2.10
It is also interesting as affording a hint as to the appearance of the five or nine-storeyed monasteries mentioned in a previous
v1.c17.s2.11
137. Sât Mahal Prâsâda and Galpota, from the south. (From a Photograph.)
v1.c17.s2.12
page (239). This one, however, never was a residence, nor does it simulate one, like the raths at Mâmallapuram or other buildings in the Dravidian style, which will be described in a subsequent chapter. Its base is 28 ft. 6 in. square, each storey diminishes in size and height—the uppermost being ruined—but the total height is still 53 ft. Statues of stucco, in high relief, ornamented each storey; and there is a flight of steps, but it reaches only to the top of the first storey.¹ The style of this peculiar tower suggests a comparison with those structures known in Cambodia as "Prasats," from which it seems to be copied; and about the time when this one was erected by Nissanka Malla at the end of the 12th century, Ceylon was in pretty close intercourse with Cambodia.²
v1.c17.s2.13
¹ Cave’s ‘Ruined Cities of Ceylon,’ p. 154; Mr. Bell’s ‘Report for 1903.’
v1.c17.s2.14
² Compare illustrations of Prasats in Lajonquière, ‘Inventaire Descriptif des Monuments du Cambodge,’ tome i. pp. xx., xxii., 199, 201, 218; Aymonier, ‘Le Cambodge,’ tome ii. p. 427, etc.; ‘Mahâwansa,’ ch. 76, vv. 21, 22.
v1.c17.s2.15
In front of it lies a splendid stone table 26 ft. 10 in. long, 4 ft. 7 in. broad, and from 16 to 26 in. thick. It is known as the Galpota or stone book, and bears a long inscription THE WATA-DÂGE (From a Photograph, 1907.)
v1.c17.s2.17
This image contains a blank page with no text or illustrations to transcribe.
v1.c17.s2.19
recording the acts and virtues of King Kîrtî Nissanka Malla (1187-1196). The carving on its border represents a double row of hansas or sacred geese—always a favourite subject of the Buddhist sculptors.¹ At each end of this stone is engraved a representation of Srî with her two elephants with their water-pots (Woodcut No. 3).
v1.c17.s2.20
¹ They occur also on Asoka’s pillars in the earliest known sculptures in India (Woodcut No. 6).
v1.c17.s2.21
Beside the Sât Mahal Prâsâda is the Wata-Dâ-ge, a circular building, which, so far as is at present known, is all but unique.² It is a circular enclosure, open to the sky, 58 ft. 2 in. in diameter, and surrounded by a wall 14 ft. high, once decorated with paintings (Plate No. III.). Inside were found the remains of a small brick dâgaba and broken figures of Buddhas at the cardinal points, as also the broken shafts of pillars of two circles that had surrounded the dâgaba. Round the outer circumference of the wall is a narrow passage, enclosed by a highly ornamental screen about 3 ft. high, adorned with a range of thirty-two slender pillar shafts, 6 ft. in height with highly carved capitals, like those of the outermost circle at the Thûpârâma dâgaba (Woodcut No. 130). Below this is a richly carved stylobate, about 4 ft. 6 in. high, standing on a circular platform 120 ft. in diameter, about 20 ft. broad and 4 ft. 6 in. above the ground level. The principal entrance is from the north side, but at the other cardinal points also are flights of steps leading up to the enclosure, more elaborate than any others that have yet been discovered in Ceylon. They all have highly carved thresholds or moonstones to start from. Their risers are each adorned with twelve figures of dwarfs, and their side pieces, or jambs, are of exceptional richness, and each has a pair of Nâga-headed dwârpâls at the sides of its steps.³ Altogether this is one of the most interesting buildings in Ceylon, as well as one of the richest in sculptural decorations.⁴
v1.c17.s2.22
² Mr. Bell mentions the ruins of a very similar “Circular Relic-shrine” at Mediri-giriya, 20 miles north of Polonnaruwa.—‘Annual Report, 1903.’
v1.c17.s2.23
³ This is probably the Daladâ Mâli-gâwa, erected by Parâkrama Bahu in the second half of the 12th century.—‘Mahâwansa,’ ch. 73 and 78.
v1.c17.s2.24
⁴ Smither’s ‘Anurâdhapura,’ p. 12.
v1.c17.s2.25
Close to the Wata-Dâ-ge, on its south-west side, is the Thûpârâma temple, a large, oblong brick structure, built by Parâkrama Bahu I., the walls of which are full 5 ft. in thickness (Plate No. IV.). The principal entrance is on the east side and a smaller one on the north, and it has four narrow windows divided by round mullions. The temple consists of a vestibule and inner hall, vaulted in the Hindû method by corbelling inwards the successive layers of brick. Over this is a low, square tower. Round the base of the building runs a low dado of lions somewhat boldly worked in stucco.
v1.c17.s2.26
Besides these, there are at Polonnaruwa several of those groups of pillars, without roofs or walls, which we tried to describe in speaking of Anurâdhapura. One, called the Audience Hall,¹ seems to be very similar to those of the northern capital; a vihâra, the so-called Heta-Dâ-ge, close to the Sât Mahal Prâsâda, is more extensive, and has been profusely ornamented;² but no mere description is of much use, and till we see the plans and more details it is needless speculating on what they may or may not have been.
v1.c17.s2.27
¹ '*Indian Antiquary*,' vol. ii. p. 247; Mr. Bell's '*Annual Report*, 1900,' p. 9.
v1.c17.s2.28
² The proof of Mr. Bell's '*Annual Report*, 1903,' contains a description of this vihâra, but no plan or section is there given.
v1.c17.s2.29
Polonnaruwa likewise possesses another point of interest of considerable importance, though hardly germane to our present subject. Among its ruins are several buildings in the Dravidian style of architecture: one of these, miscalled the Daladâ Mâligâwa, is really a Saiva temple, erected probably by Nissanka Malla, about A.D. 1190. It is built of granite and, except the roof and outer mandapa, is in fair preservation.³ Another building, though called the Vishnu Dewala, was also dedicated to the worship of Siva, as is testified by the presence of the bull alongside of it, and also apparently on its roof (Plate No. V.). It is the lowest and flattest of those buildings I have yet met with, and whilst in general style and carving resembling the preceding, it is more like a direct literal copy from a constructive vihâra than even the raths at Mâmallapuram (Woodcut No. 185, p. 329). This may arise either from its being a copy of an actual vihâra existing at the time it was built, or to its being very old. Those at Mâmallapuram, even if older than this one, may have gone through certain stages towards their present conventional forms before they were cut in the rock.⁴
v1.c17.s2.30
³ Nissanka Malla was of a Kalinga family, and would naturally incline to the Hindû style of architecture. There are remains also of a group of Hindû temples, chiefly of brick, but too much ruined to be of architectural importance.
v1.c17.s2.31
⁴ The Editor is indebted to Lord Stanmore, G C.M.G., Mr. James G. Smither, F.R.I.B.A., and Mr. H. C. P. Bell, Archæological Commissioner in Ceylon, for much valued assistance in the revision of this chapter.
v1.c17.s2.32
It is unfortunate for the history of architecture in Ceylon that the oldest and finest of her rock-cut temples—as those, for instance, at Dambulla—are only natural caverns, slightly improved by art; and those mentioned above, as the Isurumuniya at Anurâdhapura, and Gal Vihâra rock temple at Polonnaruwa, with a recumbent figure of Buddha entering Nirvâna hewn on the rock, besides being comparatively modern, have little architecture about them, and that little by SAIVA TEMPLE AT POLONNARUWA.
v1.c17.s2.34
no means of a good class. Generally speaking, what architecture these Sinhalese caves do possess is developed on applied façades of masonry, never of the same age as the caves themselves, and generally more remarkable for grotesqueness than beauty. Besides, the form of these caves being accidental, they want that interest which attaches so strongly to those of India, as illustrating the religious forms and ceremonies of the early Buddhists. Indeed, their only point of interest seems to consist in their being still used for the celebration of the same rites to which they were originally dedicated 2000 years ago.
v1.c17.s2.35
There are some interesting ancient bridges, formed on upright stone pillars, over which stone lintels are placed, and on these other stone beams, about 5½ feet in length from one lintel to another, to form the road; but these have no architectural features worth attention.¹
v1.c17.s2.36
¹ 'Third Archæological Report,' p. 7.