History of Indian and Eastern Architecture v2.c25.s22: Gwâliar.
History of Indian and Eastern Architecture v2.c25.s22
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Gwâliar.
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Perhaps the most historically interesting of these Central Indian palaces is that of Gwâliar. The rock on which that fortress stands is of so peculiar a formation, and by nature so strong, that it must always have been occupied by the chiefs of the state in which it is situated. Its temples have already been described, but its older palaces have undergone the fate of all similar edifices ; it, however, possesses, or possessed, in that built by Mân Singh (A.D. 1486-1518), the most remarkable and interesting example of a Hindû palace of an early age in India. The external dimensions of this palace are 300 ft. by 160 ft., and on the east side it is 100 ft. high, having two underground storeys looking over the country. On all its faces the flat surface is relieved by tall towers of singularly pleasing design, crowned by cupolas that were covered with domes of gilt copper when Bâbar saw them in 1527.¹ His successor, Vikrama Shâhi, added another palace, of even greater extent, to this one in 1518;² and Jahângîr and Shâh Jahân added palaces to these two, the whole making up a group of edifices unequalled for picturesqueness and interest by anything of their class that exists in Central India (Plate XXVIII.).³ Among the apartments in the palace was one called the Bâradarî, supported on twelve columns, and 45 ft. square, with a stone roof, which was one of the most beautiful apartments of its class anywhere to be found. It was, besides, singularly interesting from the expedients to which the Hindû architect was forced to resort to imitate the vaults of the Moslims. They had not then learned to copy them, as they did at the end of that century, at Brindâban and elsewhere, under the guidance of the tolerant Akbar.
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¹ Erskine's 'Memoirs of Baber,' p. 384.
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² Cunningham's 'Archæological Reports,' vol. ii. pp. 346 *et seqq.*, plates 87 and 88.
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³ We occupied the fort during the mutiny, and retained it long after. The first thing done was to occupy the Bâradarî as a mess-room; to fit up portions of the palace for military occupation; then to build a range of barracks, and clear away a lot of antiquarian remains to make a parade ground. What all this means is only too easily understood. M. Rousselet — no unfriendly critic — observes: — "Les Anglais sont très-activement occupés à simplifier la besogne de l'archéologue, et à faire disparaître ce précieux document de l'histoire de l'Inde. Déjà toutes les constructions à la gauche de la porte de l'est sont livrées à la pioche, et le même sort est réservé au reste" ('L'Inde des Rajahs,' p. 362). And, again: "Mais, hélas! l'Ourwahaï lui aussi a vécu. Quand j'y revins en décembre, 1867, les arbres étaient coupés, les statues volaient en éclats, sous les pics des travailleurs, et le ravin se remplissait des talus d'une nouvelle route construite par les Anglais: talus dans lesquels dorment les palais des Chandêlas et des Touars, les idoles des Bouddhistes et des Jaïnas." — *Loc. cit.* p. 366.
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Of these buildings, which so excited the admiration of the Emperor Bâbar, probably little now remains. The Moslims added to the palaces of the Hindûs and spared the temples and the statues of the Jains; we have ruthlessly set to work to destroy whatever interferes with our convenience, and during the few years we occupied the fort, probably did more to disfigure its beauties, and obliterate its memories, than was caused by the Moslims during the centuries they possessed or occupied it. Better things were at one time hoped for, but the fact seems to be that subordinates and contractors are allowed to do as they please, and if they can save themselves trouble, there is nothing in India that can escape the effect of their unsympathising ignorance.