Social and Political Life in the Vijayanagara Empire (A.D. 1346 – A.D. 1646) v2.c23.s2: Section 2. Dress and Ornaments
Social and Political Life in the Vijayanagara Empire (A.D. 1346 – A.D. 1646) v2.c23.s2
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Section 2. Dress and Ornaments
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Kṛṣṇa Dēva Rāya remarks thus about dress and ornaments: "Take a gem that is flawless and wear it always. On all the days of the week a king should wear the dress and ornaments made of gems befitting his own greatness and the occasions."³ 'Abdur Razzāq describes the dress of the monarch when he sat in the audience-hall ready to receive foreign ambassadors. "The king (Dēva Rāya II) was seated in great state in the forty-pillared hall, and a great crowd of Brahmans and others stood on the right and left of him. He was clothed in a robe of *zaitūn* (olive coloured?)⁴ satin, and he had round his neck a collar composed of pure pearls of regal excellence, the value of which a jeweller would find it difficult to calculate."¹ Evidently the maxim of Kṛṣṇa Dēva Rāya had already found favour with his predecessors.
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³ *Amuktamālyada*, v, 283, *J. I. H.*, IV, P. III, p. 76.
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⁴ Elliot, *Hist of India*, IV, p. 113, n. (2).
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¹ Elliot, Hist. of Ind, IV. p. 113; Sewell, For. Emp., p. 92.
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Foreign travellers were interested also in the garments worn by the monarch. Varthema says: "The king wears a cap of gold brocade two spans long, and when he goes to war he wears a quilted dress of cotton, and over it he puts another garment full of golden piastres, and having all around it jewels of various kinds."² Paes gives many details about the personality of the great ruler Kṛṣṇa Dēva Rāya,³ and also about the dress he wore when he received foreign ambassadors. "The king was clothed in certain white cloths embroidered with many roses in gold, and a pateca of diamonds on his neck of very great value, and on his head he had a cap of brocade in fashion like a Galician helmet, covered with a piece of fine stuff all of fine silk, and he was barefooted..."⁴
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² Varthema, Jones, p. 129; Temple, p. 53; Sewell, ibid., p. 118.
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³ Sewell, ibid., pp. 246-7.
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⁴ Ibid., pp. 251-2. Cf. the description of Harshavardhana given by Bāṇa, Harshacharita, p. 61.
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There was one new feature, therefore, in the dress of the monarch which did not exist in the days of Deva Raya II, and this was the high cap worn "like a Galician helmet". Paes in his description of the twenty women-porters already cited elsewhere, tells us that they also wore high caps called 'collaes' (kullāyi), "and on these caps they wear flowers made of large pearls".⁵ Nuniz confirms him in this detail of the high caps worn by the kings. "The King never puts on any garment more than once, and when he takes it off he at once delivers it to certain officers who have charge of this duty, and they render an account; and these garments are never given to any one. This is considered to show great state. His cloths are silk cloths (pachois) of very fine material and worked with gold, which are worth each one ten pardaos; and they wear at times bajuris of the same sort, which are like shirts with a skirt; and on the head they wear caps of brocade which they call *culaes*, and one of these is worth some twenty cruzados. When he lifts it from his head he never again puts it on."¹ Duarte Barbosa and Caesar Frederick, as we shall presently narrate, also speak of these high caps which, according to them, were worn by the common people. From the statues of Kṛṣṇa Dēva Rāya the Great and of the Nāyakas of Madura found in the temples of the south, it is evident that these high caps were the rule of the day from Kṛṣṇa Dēva Rāya's times.²
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⁵ Sewell, ibid., p. 273 and n. (1).
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¹ Sewell, *For. Emp.*, p. 383.
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² For an account of the statues in the Pudumaṇṭapam, read Heras, *Q. J. M. S.* XV, p. 211; *Aravidu*, p. 303; Gangolly, *South Indian Bronzes* Pl. LXXXIV, p. 60; Veṅkaṭēśvara-Viśvanātha, *Ep. Ind.*, XIII, p. 124.
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The origin of these caps is given by Barros. While describing an action under the command of Don Menezes, Barros relates that that leader ordered twenty men of his troops to jump into the water and to swim, while he himself at the head of a piece of artillery charged like a furious lion. Don Menezes then called the Moors to retire, whereupon they retired, and charging upon those who were standing with their artillery, he captured it. At this time, "he discerned a great troop of people that was coming towards where he stood, among whom he saw a hat of high peak which covered the head of a horseman and thereby he knew him to be a noble person. This kind of costume comes to India from the China country and as only noblemen can wear it,—as it is a sign of nobility we may call it *quira sol*, the form and use of which it resembles—usually it is six to eight palms in diameter; its stalk (or peak) is little more than fifteen. There are men so skilful in holding it that although the master goes at a gallop on his horse, the sun does not touch him in any part of the body and these they call in India *buiyes*;³ and to see in the court of the prince the lord who accompanied him covered with those hats with high peaks gives them great majesty, because they are handsome to the sight and of much dignity".⁴
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³ The *Bōyees*.
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⁴ Barros, *Este genero de sombrero es trage venido a la India de la Region Chino*, Libro Nonodela, p. 98 (1628 ed.).
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There are a few notices of the dress of the nobles of some parts of the Empire. Varthema in the characteristic manner of foreigners ignorant of the climatic conditions and habits of the people, writes thus about the ruler of Honnāvūru : " Travelling thence for two days, we went to another place called Onor, the king of which is a pagan, and is subject to the King of Narsinga. This King is a good fellow, and has seven or eight ships, which are always cruising about. He is a great friend of the king of Portugal. As to his dress, he goes quite naked, with the exception of a cloth about his middle."¹ Barbosa speaks of the "rich litters borne by their servants, with many led horses and mounted men", in connection with the nobles summoned to the royal presence on a charge of misdemeanour.²
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¹ Varthema, Jones, pp. 121-2; Temple, pp. 49-50.
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² Barbosa, Dames; I., p. 209; Stanley, p. 89; Sewell, For. Emp. p. 130.
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Nicholas Pimenta observed the following about the Nāyaka of Gingee in A. D. 1599 : " We found him lying on a silken Carpet leaning on two Cushions, in a long silken Garment, a great Chaine hanging from his necke, distinguished with many Pearles and Gemmes, all over his brest, his long haire tyed with a knot on the crowne, adorned with Pearles ; some Princes and Brachmanes attended him."³
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³ Pimenta, Purchas, Pilgrims, X., p. 208. Cf. Bāṇa, Harshacharita, p. 121.
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Pietro della Valle thus describes the appearance of Sadāśiva Nāyaka, the nephew of Veṅkaṭapa Nāyaka. "I saw passing along the street a Nephew of Venktapā Naieka, his Sister's son, a handsome youth and fair for that Country; he was one of those who aspire to the succession of this State, and was now returning from the fields without the Town, whither he uses to go every morning. He is called Sedāsiva Naieka, and was attended with a great number of Souldiers, both Horse and Foot, marching before him and behind, with many Cavaliers and Captains of quality, himself riding alone with great gravity. He had before him Drums, Cornets and every sort of their barbarous instruments. Moreover both in the Front and in the rear of the Cavalcade were (I know not whether for magnificence, or for guard) several Elephants carrying their guides upon their backs, and amongst them was also his Palanchino".¹
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¹ Pietro della Valle, Travels, II., pp. 262-3.
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The same traveller describes the dress of the great personages who accompanied the Bednur ambassador. "Vitulā Sinay and some other personages, who came with them to accompany the Ambassador, were all cloth'd with white garments of very fine Silk, and other rich Silken surcoats upon the same, to honour the solemnity; and upon these they had such colour'd clothes as in Persia they call Scial (Shāl, Shawl), and use for girdles, but the Indians wear them across the shoulders, cover'd with a piece of very fine white Silk, so that the colour underneath appears; or else white Silk alone.
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"As soon as we came out of doors Musē Bai presented to the Ambassador one of the colour'd Skarfs inclos'd in white Silk to wear about his Neck; and the Ambassador gave him a piece of, I know not what, Cloth, and in the meantime a public Dancing-Woman, whom they had hir'd, danc'd in the presence of us all."²
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² Ibid., pp. 248-9.
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The statues of the Nāyakas at Tanjore referred to above, disclose the upper garments worn by the nobles extending from the waist to the ankles, a rich belt, beautiful garlands obviously of golden flowers interlaced with precious stones, and the poniard worn sometimes on the right and sometimes on the left side.³
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³ Heras, Q. J. M. S., XV., pp. 209-10. Cf. The dress of the chieftans given by Bāṇa, Harshacharita, pp. 202-3.
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We now have to ascertain the dress of the common people. 'Abdur Razzāq tells us the following: "All the inhabitants of the country, whether high or low, even down to the artificers of the bazar, wear jewels and gilt ornaments in their ears and around their necks, arms, wrists and fingers."⁴
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⁴ Elliot, Hist. of India, IV., p. 109; Major India, p. 26.
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In a general description of the dress of the people, applicable, on the whole, to the inhabitants of the south as well as the north, Nicolo dei Conti says: "They have no beards, but very long hair. Some tie their hair at the back of their head with a silken cord, and let it flow over their shoulders, and in this way go to war. They have barbers like ourselves. The men resemble Europeans in stature and the duration of their lives. They sleep upon silken mattresses, on beds ornamented with gold. The style of dress is different in different regions. Wool is very little used. There is great abundance of flax and silk, and of these they make their garments. Almost all, both men and women, wear a linen cloth bound round the body, so as to cover the front of the person, and descending as low as the knees, and over this a garment of linen or silk, which, with the men, descends to just below the knees, and with the women to the ankles. They cannot wear more clothing on account of the great heat, and for the same reason they only wear sandals, with purple and golden ties, as we see in ancient statues. In some places the women have shoes made of thin leather, ornamented with gold and silk. By way of ornament they wear rings of gold on their arms and on their hands; also around their necks and legs, of the weight of three pounds, and studded with gems ... The manner of adorning the head is various, but for the most part the head is covered with a cloth embroidered with gold, the hair being bound up with a silken cord. In some places they twist up the hair upon the top of their head, like a pyramid, sticking a golden bodkin in the centre, from which golden threads, with pieces of cloth of various colours interwoven with gold, hang suspended over the hair. Some wear false hair, of a black colour, for that is the colour that is held in highest estimation. Some cover the head with the leaves of trees painted, but none paint their faces, with the exception of those who dwell near Cathay."¹
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¹ Major India, pp. 22-3.
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Such of the features as are applicable to the inhabitants of the south, given in the above passage, may be compared with those given by the eye-witnesses in the Vijayanagara Empire, who speak of the various parts of the country. Varthema in A. D. 1502 summarily describes the people of Maṅgaḷūr : "The inhabitants are pagans and Moors. Their mode of living, their customs, and their dress, are like those above described."¹ He is here referring to his own observations made in connection with the people of Honnāvūru, which we have seen. While describing the citizens of the capital, he says : "They live like pagans. Their dress is this : the men of condition wear a short shirt, and on their head a cloth of gold and silk in the Moorish fashion, but nothing on their feet. The common people go quite naked with the exception of a piece of cloth about their middle."² According to the same traveller, "Their (i.e, of the people of Paleachet or Pulicat) laws, manner of living, dress, and customs, are the same as at Calicut, and they are a warlike people, ..."³
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¹ Varthema, Jones, p. 122; Temple, p. 50.
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² Ibid., Jones, p. 129; Temple, p. 53.
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³ Ibid, Jones, p. 195; Temple, p. 74. In regard to Calicut, see ibid Jones, p. 143; Temple p. 58.
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Barbosa says the following about the dress of the people: "The natives of this land are Heathen like himself (i.e., the king); they are tawny men, nearly white. Their hair is long, straight and black. The men are of good height with 'physnomies' like our own: the women go very trimly clad; the men wear certain clothes as a girdle below, wound very tightly in many folds, and short white shirts of cotton or silk or coarse brocade, which are gathered between the thighs but open in front: on their heads they carry small turbans, and some wear silk or brocade caps, they wear their rough shoes on their feet (without stockings). They wear also other large garments thrown over their shoulders like capes, and are accompanied by pages walking behind them with their swords in their hands. The substances with which they are always anointed are these: white sanders-wood, aloes, camphor, musk, and saffron, all ground fine and kneaded with rose water. With these they anoint themselves after bathing, and so they are always very highly scented. They wear many rings set with precious stones and many earrings set with fine pearls in their ears. As well as the page armed with a sword, whom, as I have said, they take with them, they take also another who holds an umbrella (lit. a shade-hat with a handle) to shade them and to keep off the rain, and of these some are made of finely worked silk with many golden tassels, and many precious stones and seed-pearls. They are so made as to open and shut, and many cost three to four hundred cruzados."¹
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¹ Barbosa, Dames, I., pp. 205-7. Dames gives a valuable note on these umbrellas, p. 206, n (1). See also Stanley, pp. 87-8.
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Paes remarks thus: ".... the majority of the people, or almost all, go about the country barefooted. The shoes have pointed ends, in the ancient manner, and there are other shoes that have nothing but soles, but on the top are some straps which help to keep them on the feet. They are made like those which of old the Romans were wont to wear, as you will find on figures in some papers or antiquities which come from Italy."²
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² Sewell, For. Emp., p. 252. We may observe here Mr. Moreland's comments (India at the Death of Akbar, p. 276) on the same subject. He says that "the tradition of nakedness in the south extends to the feet", and tries to prove his case by quoting a part of the statement of Paes given above, thus—"John of Montecorvino reported that shoe-makers were as little required as tailors. Nikitin said, as we have seen, that the people of the Deccan went barefooted. Paes says the same thing of 'the majority of the people, or almost all', in Vijayanagar." But it would have been better if the other statements relating to shoes, given by Paes, had also been cited, since the testimony of Paes, specially when taken in conjunction with that of Nicolo and Barbosa, proves that shoes were common in the south. B.A.S.
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That shoes were common in the south is also proved by the reference to the tax levied on shoe-makers, found in inscriptions. We are told in a record dated A. D. 1375 that shoe-makers were taxed.³
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³ E. C., X., Ct. 94, p. 262.
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Caesar Frederick relates the following about the articles used in Vijayanagara. "The Merchandize that went every yeere from Goa to Bezeneger were Arabian Horses, Velvets, Damaskes, and Sattens, Armesine of Portugall, and pieces of China, Saffron and Scarlets: and from Bezeneger they had in Turkie for their commodities, Jewels, and Pagodies which be Ducates of gold: The apparel that they use in Bezeneger is Velvet, Satten, Damaske, Scarlet, or white Bumbast cloth, according to the estate of the person, with long Hats on their heads, called Colae, made of Velvet, Satten, Damaske, or Scarlet, girding themselves in stead of girdles with some fine white Bumbast cloth: they have breeches after the order of the Turkes: they weare on their feet plaine high things called of them Aspergh, and at their eares they have hanging great plentie of Gold."1 Linschoten, while describing the Canariins and Corumbiins, says: "They weare onely a tuske of haire on the top of their Heads, which they suffer to grow long: the rest of their haire is cut short......"2
Linked texts (4)
- Āmuktamālyada — Kṛṣṇadevarāya 1515, Telugu
- Harṣacarita — Bāṇabhaṭṭa, Sanskrit
- Epigraphia Carnatica
- Grant of Vishnuvarman: the 28th Year — Sanskrit