Annals and Antiquities of Rajasthan, or the Central and Western Rajput States of India v3.c40.t1: Itinerary

Annals and Antiquities of Rajasthan, or the Central and Western Rajput States of India v3.c40.t1

Language: English

Itinerary

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³ [Many of the places named in this Itinerary are merely temporary halting-places in the desert, which do not appear in modern maps. Hence, in several cases, the transliteration is conjectural, and depends on the method of the Author in the case of well-known localities. A series of similar routes is given by Lieut. A. H. E. Boileau, Narrative of a Tour through Rajwara in 1835 (Calcutta, 1837), p. 192 ff.]

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Jaisalmer to Sehwan, on the right bank of the Indus, and Haidarabad, and return by Umarkot to Jaisalmer

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Kuldra (5 coss).—A village inhabited by Paliwal Brahmans ; two hundred houses ; wells. Gajia-ki-basti (2 do.).—Sixty houses ; chiefly Brahmans ; wells. Khaba (3 do.).—Three hundred houses ; chiefly Brahmans ; a small fort of four bastions on low hills, having a garrison of Jaisalmer. Kanohi (5 do.).—An assemblage of hamlets of four or five huts Sum (5 do.).—on one spot, about a mile distant from each other, conjointly called Sum, having a burj or tower for defence, garrisoned from Jaisalmer ; several large wells, termed beria ; inhabitants, chiefly Sindis of various tribes, pasture their flocks, and bring salt and khara (natron) from Deo Chandeswar, the latter used as a mordant in fixing colours, exported to all parts. Half-way between Sum and Mulana is the boundary of Jaisalmer and Sind.

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Mulana ¹ (24 coss).—A hamlet of ten huts; chiefly Sindis; situated amidst lofty sandhills. From Sum, the first half of the journey is over alternate sandhills, rocky ridges (termed magra), and occasionally plain; for the next three, rocky ridges and sandhills without any flats, and the remaining nine coss a succession of lofty tibas. In all this space of twenty-four coss there are no wells, nor is a drop of water to be had but after rain, when it collects in some old tanks or reservoirs, called nadi and taba, situated half-way, where in past times there was a town.

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¹ There are two routes from Mulana to Sehwan. The Dhati went the longest on account of water. The other is by Sakrand, as follows:

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It is asserted, that before the Muhammadans conquered Sind and these regions, the valley and desert belonged to Rajput princes of the Pramar and Solanki tribes; that the whole thal (desert) was more or less inhabited, and the remains of old tanks and temples, notwithstanding the drifting of the sands, attest the fact. Tradition records a famine of twelve years' duration during the time of Lakha Phulani, in the twelfth century, which depopulated the country, when the survivors of the thal fled to the kachhi, or flats of the Sind. There are throughout still many oases or cultivated patches, designated by the local terms from the [332] indispensable element, water, which whether springs or rivulets, are called wah, bah, beria, rar, tar, prefixed by the tribe of those pasturing, whether Sodhas, Rajars, or Samaichas. The inhabitants of one hamlet will go as far as ten miles to cultivate a patch.

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Deo Chandeswar Mahadeo (2 do.).—When the Sodha princes held sway in these regions, there was a town here, and a temple to Mahadeo, the ruins of which still exist, erected over a spring called Suraj kund, or fountain of the Sun. The Islamite destroyed the temple, and changed the name of the spring to

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| | Coss. | | Coss. | |
| Palri | . . . | 5 | Sakrand | . . | 3 ¹ | |
| Padshah-ki-basti | . . | 6 | Nala | . . | 0½ | This |
| Udani | . . . | 5 | Makrand | . | 4 | appears |
| Mitrao | . . . | 10 | Koka-ki-basti | . | 6 | very |
| Mir-ki-khoi | . . | 6 | The Sind | . | 10 | circuit- |
| Supari | . . . | 5 | Sehwan | . | 0½ | ous. |
| Kambhar-ka-nala | . . | 9 | | | | |

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¹ Town high road from Upper to Lower Sind.

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Dinbawa, or ‘waters of the faith.’ The kund is small, faced with brick, and has its margin planted with date trees and pomegranates, and a Mulla, or priest from Sind, resides there and receives tribute from the faithful. For twelve coss around this spot there are numerous springs of water, where the Rajars find pasture for their flocks, and patches to cultivate. Their huts are conical like the wigwams of the African, and formed by stakes tied at the apex and covered with grass and leaves, and often but a large blanket of camel's hair stretched on stakes.

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Chandia-ki-basti (2 coss).—Hamlet inhabited by Muslims of the Chandia tribe, mendicants who subsist on the charity of the traveller.

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Udhania (7 do.).—Twelve huts; no water between it and the last hamlet.

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Nala (5 do.).—Descent from the thal or desert, which ceases a mile east of the nala or stream, said to be the same which issues from the Indus at Dara, above Rohri-Bakhar; thence it passes east of Sohrab's Khairpur, and by Jinar to Bersia-karar, whence there is a canal cut to Umarkot and Chor.

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Mitrao (4 do.).—Village of sixty houses, inhabited by Baloch; a thana, or post here from Haidarabad; occasional low sandhills.

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Mir-ki-kui (6 do.).—Three detached hamlets of ten huts each, inhabited by Aroras.

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Sheopuri (3 do.).—One hundred and twenty houses, chiefly Aroras: small fort of six bastions to the south-east, garrisoned from Haidarabad.

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Kamera-ka-Nala (6 do.).—This nala issues from the Indus between Kakar-ki-basti and Sakrand, and passes eastward; probably the bed of an old canal, with which the country is everywhere intersected.

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Sakrand (2 do.).—One hundred houses, one-third of which are Hindus; patches of cultivation; numerous watercourses neglected; everywhere overgrown with jungle, chiefly jhau and [333] khejra (tamarisk and acacia). Cotton, indigo, rice, wheat, barley, peas, grain, and maize grow on the banks of the watercourses.

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Jatui (2 do.).—Sixty houses; a nala between it and Jatui.

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Kazi-ka-Shahr (4 do.).—Four hundred houses; two nalas intervene.

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Makera (4 coss).—Sixty houses; a nala between it and Jatui. Kakar-ki-basti (6 do.).—Sixteen houses; half-way the remains of an ancient fortress; three canals or nalas intervening; the village placed upon a mound four miles from the Indus, whose waters overflow it during the periodic monsoon. Pura or Hamlet (1 do.).—A ferry. The Indus (1 do.).—Took boat and crossed to Sewan or Sehwan (1½ do.).—A town of twelve hundred houses on the right bank, belonging to Haidarabad ¹ [334].

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¹ Sehwan is erected on an elevation within a few hundred yards of the river, having many clumps of trees, especially to the south. The houses are built of clay, often three stories high, with wooden pillars supporting the floors. To the north of the town are the remains of a very ancient and extensive fortress, sixty of its bastions being still visible; and in the centre the vestiges of a palace still known as Raja Bhartrihari-ka-Mahall, who is said to have reigned here when driven from Ujjain by his brother Vikramaditya. Although centuries have flown since the Hindus had any power in these regions, their traditions have remained. They relate that Bhartrihari, the eldest son of Gandharap Sen, was so devoted to his wife, that he neglected the affairs of government, which made his brother expostulate with him. This coming to his wife's ears, she insisted on the banishment of Vikrama. Soon after a celebrated ascetic reached his court, and presented to Bhartrihari the Amarphul, or ‘fruit of immortality,’ the reward of years of austere devotion at the shrine of Mahadeo. Bhartrihari gave it to his wife, who bestowed it on an elephant-driver, her paramour; he to a common prostitute, his mistress; who expecting to be highly rewarded for it, carried it to the raja. Incensed at such a decided proof of infidelity, Bhartrihari, presenting himself before his queen, asked for the prize—she had lost it. Having produced it, she was so overwhelmed with shame that she rushed from his presence, and precipitating herself from the walls of the palace, was dashed to pieces. Raja Bhartrihari consoled himself with another wife, Rani Pingula, to whose charms he in like manner became enslaved; but experience had taught him suspicion. Having one day gone a-hunting, his huntsman shot a deer, whose doe coming to the spot, for a short time contemplated the body, then threw herself on his antlers and died. The Shikari, or huntsman, who had fallen asleep, was killed by a huge snake. His wife came to seek him, supposing him still asleep, but at length seeing he was dead, she collected leaves, dried reeds, and twigs, and having made a pyre, placed the body under it; after the usual perambulations she set fire to, and perished with it. The raja, who witnessed these proceedings, went home and conversed with Pingulani on these extraordinary Satis, especially the Shikari’s, which he called unparalleled. Pingulani disputed the point, and said it was the sacrifice of passion, not of love; had it been the latter, grief would have required no pyre. Some time after, having again gone a-hunting, Bhartrihari recalled this conversation, and having slain a deer, he dipped his clothes in the blood, and sent them by a confidential messenger to report his death in combat with a tiger. Pingulani heard the details; she wept not, neither did she speak, but prostrating herself before the sun, ceased to exist. The pyre was raised, and her

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Sehwan to Haidarabad

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Jat-ki-basti (2 coss).—The word *jāt* or *jat* is here pronounced Zjat. This hamlet ‘basti,’ is of thirty huts, half a mile from the Indus : hills close to the village.

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remains were consuming outside the city as the raja returned from his excursion. Hastening to the spot of lamentation, and learning the fatal issue of his artifice, he threw off the trappings of sovereignty, put on the pilgrim’s garb, and abandoned Ujjain to Vikrama. The only word which he uttered, as he wandered to and fro, was the name of his faithful Pingulani ! “Hae Pingula! Hae Pingula!” The royal pilgrim at length fixed his abode at Sehwan; but although they point out the ruins of a palace still known even to the Islamite as the Am-khass of Raja Bhartrihari, it is admitted that the fortress is of more ancient date. There is a *mandir*, or shrine, to the south of the town, also called, after him, Bhartri-ka-mandir. In this the Islamite has deposited the mortal remains of a saint named Lal Pir Shahbaz, to whom they attribute their victorious possession of Sind.¹ The cenotaph of this saint, who has the character of a proselyte Hindu, is in the centre of the mandir, and surrounded by wooden stakes. It is a curious spectacle to see both Islamite and Hindu paying their devotions in the same place of worship; and although the first is prohibited from approaching the sacred enceinte of the Pir, yet both adore a large salagram, that vermiculated fossil sacred to Vishnu, placed in a niche in the tomb. The fact is a curious one, and although these Islamite adorers are the scions of conversion, it perhaps shows in the strongest manner that this conversion was of the sword, for, generally speaking, the converted Hindu makes the most bigoted and intolerant Musalman. My faithful and intelligent emissaries, Madari Lal and the Dhati, brought me a brick from the ruins of this fortress of Sehwan. It was about a cubit in length, and of symmetrical breadth and thickness, uncommonly well burnt, and rang like a bell. They also brought me some charred wheat, from pits where it had been burned. The grains were entire and reduced to a pure carbon. Tradition is again at work, and asserts its having lain there for some thousand years. There is very little doubt that this is the site of one of the antagonists of the Macedonian conqueror, perhaps Mousikanos,² or Mukh-Sehwan, the chief of Sehwan. The passage of the Grecian down the Indus was marked by excesses not inferior to those of the Ghaznavede king in later times, and doubtless they fired all they could not plunder to carry to the fleet. There is also a Nanak-bara, or place of worship sacred to Nanak, the great apostle of the Sikhs, placed between the fortress and the river. Sehwan is inhabited by Hindus and Islamites in equal proportions : of the former, the mercantile Samaicha-ki-basti (2½ coss).—Small village. Lakhi (2½ do.).—Sixty houses; one mile and a half from the river : canal on the north side of the village; banks well cultivated. In the hills, two miles west, is a spot sacred to Parbati and Mahadeo, where are several springs, three of which are hot.¹ Umri (2 do.).—Twenty-five houses, half a mile from River; the hills not lofty, a coss west. Sumri (3 do.).—Fifty houses, on the River hills; one and a half coss west. Sindu or San (4 do.).—Two hundred houses and a bazar, two hundred yards from the River; hills one and a half coss west. Manjhand (4½ do.).—On the River two hundred and fifty houses, considerable trade; hills two coss west. Umar-ki-basti (3 do.).—A few huts, near the river. Sayyid-ki-basti (3 do.). Shikarpur (4 do.).—On the river; crossed to the east side.

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¹ [The reference is to Lāl Shāhbāz, Qalandar, head of the Jalāli order, who died at Sehwān, A.D. 1274. For a full account see R. F. Burton, Sindh, 211 f.]

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² [Mousikanos was the stiff-necked king of Alor or Aror who opposed Alexander, was captured and executed (Smith, EHI, 100 f.; McCrindle, Alexander, 395).]

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tribe of Mahesri from Jaisalmer, is the most numerous, and have been fixed here for generations. There are also many Brahmans of the Pokharna ¹ caste, Sunars or goldsmiths, and other Hindu artisans; of the Muslims the Sayyid is said to be the most numerous class. The Hindus are the monied men. Cotton and indigo, and great quantities of rice in the husk (paddy), grown in the vicinage of Sehwan, are exported to the ports of Tatta and Karachi Bandar by boats of considerable burthen, manned entirely by Muhammadans. The Hakim of Sehwan is sent from Haidarabad. The range of mountains which stretch from Tatta nearly parallel with the Indus, approaches within three miles of Sehwan, and there turns off to the north-west. All these hills are inhabited as far as the shrine of Hinglaj Mata ² on the coast of Mekran (placed in the same range) by the Lumri, or Numri tribe, who though styling themselves Baloch, are Jats in origin.³

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¹ These springs are frequented, despite the difficulties and dangers of the route from the savage Numri, by numerous Hindu pilgrims. Two of them are hot, and named Suryakund and Chandrakund, or fountains of the sun and moon, and imbued with especial virtues; but before the pilgrim can reap any advantage by purification in their waters, he must undergo the rite of confession to the attendant priests, who, through intercession with Mahadeo, have the power of granting absolution. Should a sinner be so hardened as to plunge in without undergoing this preparatory ordeal, he comes out covered with boils!!! This is a curious confirmation that the confessional rite is one of very ancient usage amongst the Hindus, even in the days of Rama of Kosala.—See Vol. I. p. 94.

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¹ See Annals of Jaisalmer, Vol. II. p. 1256. ² This famous shrine of the Hindu Cybele, yet frequented by numerous votaries, is nine days' journey from Tatta by Karachi Bandar, and about nine miles from the seashore. ³ These are the Nomurdies of Rennel. [See p. 1299 above.]

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Haidarabad (3 coss).—One and a half coss from the river Indus. Haidarabad to Nasarpur, nine coss; to Sheodadpur, eleven do.; to Sheopuri, seventeen do.; to Rohri-Bakhar, six do.—total forty-three coss.

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Haidarabad via Umarkot, to Jaisalmer

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Sindu Khan ki-basti (3 do.).—West bank of Phuleli river. Tajpur (3 do.).—Large town, north-east of Haidarabad [335]. Katrel (1½ do.).—A hundred houses. Nasarpur (1½ do.).—East of Tajpur, large town. Alahyar-ka-Tanda (4 do.).—A considerable town built by Alahyar Khan, brother of the late Ghulam Ali, and lying south-east of Nasarpur. Two coss north of the town is the Sangra Nala or Bawa,¹ said to issue from the Indus between Hala and Sakrand and passing Jandila. Mirbah (5 do.).—Forty houses; *Bah, Tanda, Got, Purwa*, are all synonymous terms for habitations of various degrees. Sunaria (7 do.).—Forty houses. Dangana (4 do.).—To this hamlet extend the flats of Sind. Sandhills five and six miles distant to the north. A small river runs under Dangana. Karsana (7 do.).—A hundred houses. Two coss east of Karsana are the remains of an ancient city; brick buildings still remaining, with well and reservoirs. Sandhills two to three coss to the northward. Umarkot (8 do.).—There is one continued plain from Haidarabad to Umarkot, which is built on the low ground at the very extremity of the *thal* or sand-hills of the desert, here commencing. In all this space, estimated at forty-four kachha coss, or almost seventy miles of horizontal distance, as far as Sunaria the soil is excellent, and plentifully irrigated by *bawahs*, or canals from the Indus. Around the villages there is considerable cultivation; but notwithstanding the natural fertility, there is a vast quantity of jungle, chiefly babul (*Mimosa arabica*), the evergreen *jhal*, and *jhau* or tamarisk. From Sunaria to Umarkot is one continued jungle, in which there are a few cultivated patches dependent on the heavens for irrigation; the soil is not so good as the first portion of the route. Katar (4 do.).—A mile east of Umarkot commences the *thal* or sandhills, the ascent a hundred and fifty to two hundred feet. A few huts of Samaichas who pasture; two wells. Dhat-ki-basti (4 do.).—A few huts; one well; Dhats, Sodhas, and Sindis cultivate and pasture.

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¹ This is the Sankra of Nadir Shah’s treaty with Muhammad Shah of India, which the conqueror made the boundary between India and Persia, by which he obtained the whole of that fertile portion of the valley of Sind, east of that stream. Others say it issues from Dara, above Rohri Bakhar.

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Dharnas (8 coss).—A hundred houses, chiefly Pokharna Brahmans and Banias, who purchase up the ghi from the pastoral tribes, which they export to Bhuj and the valley. It is also an entrepôt for trade; caravans from the east exchange their goods for the ghi, here very cheap, from the vast flocks pastured in the Rui.

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Kherlu-ka-Par (3 do.).—Numerous springs (par) and hamlets scattered throughout this tract.

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Lanela (1½ do.).—A hundred houses; water brackish; conveyed by camels from Kherlu.

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Bhoj-ka-Par (3 do.).—Huts; wells; patches of cultivation.

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Bhu (6 do.).—Huts.

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Garara (10 do.).—A small town of three hundred houses, belonging to Sawai Singh Sodha, with several puras or hamlets attached to it. This is the boundary between Dhat or the Sodha raj and Jaisalmer. Dhat is now entirely incorporated in Sind. A dani, or collector of the transit duties, resides here.

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Harsani (10 do.).—Three hundred houses, chiefly Bhattis. It belongs to a Rajput of this tribe, now dependent on Marwar [336].

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Jinjiniali (10 do.).—Three hundred houses. This is the fief of the chief noble of Jaisalmer; his name Ketsi,¹ Bhatti. It is the border town of Jaisalmer. There is a small mud fortress, and several talaos, or sheets of water, which contain water often during three-fourths of the year; and considerable cultivation in the little valleys formed by the tibas, or sand-ridges. About two miles north of Jinjiniali there is a village of Charans.

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¹ See Annals of Jaisalmer for an account of the murder of this chieftain, Vol. II. p. 1233.

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Gaj Singh-ki-basti (2 do.).—Thirty-five houses. Water scarce, brought on camels from the Charan village.

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Hamirdeora (5 do.).—Two hundred houses. There are several beras or pools, about a mile north, whither water is brought on camels, that in the village being saline. The ridge of rocks from Jaisalmer here terminates.

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Chelak (5 do.).—Eighty houses; wells; Chelak on the ridge.

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Bhopa (7 do.).—Forty houses; wells; small talao or pool.

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Bhao (2 do.).—Two hundred houses; pool to the west; small wells.

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Jaisalmer (5 do.).—Eighty-five and a half coss from Umarkot to Jaisalmer by this route, which is circuitous. That by Jinjiniali 26 coss, Girab 7, Nilwa 12, Umarkot 25—in all 70 pakka coss, or about 150 miles. Caravans or kitars of camels pass in four days, kasids or messengers in three and a half, travelling night and day. The last 25 coss, or 50 miles, is entire desert: add to this 44 short coss from Haidarabad to Umarkot, making a total of 129½ coss. The most direct road is estimated at 105 pakka coss, which, allowing for sinuosities, is equal to about 195 English miles. Total of this route, 85½ coss.

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Jaisalmer to Haidarabad, by Baisnau

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Kuldar (5 coss). Khaba (5 do.). Lakha-ka-ganw (30 do.).—Desert the whole way; no hamlets or water. Baisnau (8 do.). Bersia-ka-Rar (16 do.).—Wells. Thipra (3 do.). Mata-ka-dher (7 do.).—Umarkot distant 20 coss. Jandila (8 do.). Alahyar-ka Tanda (10 do.).—Sankra, or Sangra nala. Tajpur (4 do.). Jam-ka-Tanda (2 do.). Haidarabad (5 do.). { In the former route the distance from Alahyar-ka-Tanda, by the town of Nasarpur, is called 13 coss, or two more than this. There are five nalas or canals in the last five coss. } Total of this route, 103 coss.

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Jaisalmer, by Shahgarh, to Khairpur of Mir Sohrab

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Anasagar (2 do.). Chonda (2 do.). Pani-ka-tar (3 do.).—Tar or Tir, springs [337]. Pani-ki-kuchri (7 do.).—No village. Kuriala (4 do.). Shahgarh (20 do.¹).—Rui or waste all this distance. Shahgarh is the boundary; it has a small castle of six bastions, a post of Mir Sohrab, governor of Upper Sind. Garsia (6 do.). Garhar (28 do.).—Rui or desert the whole way; not a drop of water. There are two routes branching off from Garhar, one to Khairpur, the other to Ranipur. Baloch-ki-basti (5 do.). Samaicha-ki-basti (5 do.). } Hamlets of Baloch and Samaichas. Nala (2 do.).—The same stream which flows from Dara, and through the ancient city of Alor; it marks the boundary of the desert.

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¹ Shaikh Abu-l-barakat makes the distance only nine coss from Shahgarh to Kuriala, and states the important fact of crossing the dry bed of the Ghaggar, five coss west of Kuriala; water found plentifully by digging in the bed. Numerous beras, to which the shepherds drive their flocks.

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Khairpur ¹ (18 coss).—Mir Sohrab, governor of Upper Sind, and brother of the prince of Haidarabad, resides here. He has erected a stone fortress of twelve bastions, called Nawakot or New-castle. The 18 coss from the nala to Khairpur is flat, and marks the breadth of the valley here. The following towns are of consequence.

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¹ [IGI, xv. 215 f.]

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Khairpur to Larkhana.—Twenty coss west of the Indus, held by Karam Ali, son of the prince of Haidarabad.

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Khairpur to Lakhi.—Fifteen coss, and five from Shikarpur.

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Khairpur to Shikarpur (20 do.).

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Garhar to Ranipur

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Pharara (10 do.).—A village of fifty houses, inhabited by Sindis and Karars; several hamlets around. A dani, or collector of transit dues, resides here on the part of Mir Sohrab, the route being travelled by kitars or caravans of camels. The nala from Dara passes two coss east of Pharara, which is on the extremity of the desert. Commencement of the ridge called Takar, five coss west of Pharara, extending to Rohri Bakhar, sixteen coss distant from Pharara. From Pharara to the Indus, eighteen coss, or thirty miles breadth of the valley here.

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Ranipur ² (18 do.).

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² Considerable town on the high road from Upper to Lower Sind. See subsequent route.

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Jaisalmer to Rohri Bakhar

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Kuriala (18 do.).—See last route.

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Banda (4 do.).—A tribe of Muslims, called Undar, dwell here.

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Gotru (16 do.).—Boundary of Jaisalmer and Upper Sind. A small castle and garrison of Mir Sohrab’s; two wells, one inside; and a hamlet of thirty huts of Samaichas and Undars; tibas heavy.

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Udat (32 do.).—Thirty huts of shepherds; a small mud fortress.

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Rui, a deep and entire desert, throughout all this space; no water [338].

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Sankram or Sangram (16 do.).—Half the distance sand-hills, the rest numerous temporary hamlets constructed of the juar, or maize stalks; several water-courses.

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Nala-Sangra (½ do.).—This nala or stream is from Dara, on the Sind, two coss and a half north of Rohri Bakhar; much cultivation; extremity of the sand-hills.

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Targatia (½ do.).—A large town; Bankers and Banias, here termed Karar and Samaichas.

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Low ridge of hills, called Takar (4 do.).—This little chain of silicious rocks runs north and south; Nawakot, the Newcastle of Sohrab, is at the foot of them; they extend beyond Pharara, which is sixteen coss from Rohri Bakhar. Gumat is six coss from Nawakot.

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Rohri (4 coss). Bakhar (½ do.). Sakhar (½ do.). } On the ridge, on the left bank of the Indus. Crossed over to Bakhar; breadth of the river near a mile. Bakhar is an island, and the other branch to Sakhar is almost a mile over also. This insulated rock is of silex, specimens of which I possess. There are the remains of the ancient fortress of Mansura, named in honour of the Caliph Al-Mansur, whose lieutenants made it the capital of Sind on the opening of their conquests. It is yet more famed as the capital of the Sogdoi of Alexander; in all probability a corruption of Sodha, the name of the tribe which has ruled from immemorial ages, and who till very lately held Umarkot.

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N.B.—Kasids or messengers engage to carry despatches from Jaisalmer to Rohri Bakhar in four days and a half; a distance of one hundred and twelve coss.

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Bakhar to Shikarpur

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Lakhi, also called Lakhisar (12 do.). Sindu Nala (3½ do.). Shikarpur (½ do.). Total of this route, 16 do. Bakhar to Larkhana (28 do.). Shikarpur to Larkhana (20 do.).

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Jaisalmer to Dahir Ali Khairpur

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Kuriala (18 do.). Khara (20 do.).—Rui or desert all the way. This is the dohadd, or mutual boundary of Upper Sind and Jaisalmer, and there is a small mitti-ka-kot or mud fort, jointly held by the respective troops; twenty huts and one well. Sutiala (20 do.).—Rui all the way. A dani for the collection of duties; six wells. Khairpur (Dahir Ali) (20 do.).—Rui, and deep jungle of the evergreens called lawa and jhal, from Sutiala to Khairpur. Total of this route, 78 do.

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Khairpur (Dahir Ali) to Ahmadpur

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Ubaura (6 do.).—Considerable town; Indus four coss west. Sabzal-ka-kot (8 do.).—Boundary of Upper Sind and Daudputra. This frontier castle, often disputed, was lately taken by Mir Sohrab from Bahawal Khan. Numerous hamlets and watercourses [339].

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Ahmadpur (8 coss).—Considerable garrison town of Daudputra ; two battalions and sixteen guns. Total of this route, 22 coss.

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Khairpur (Dahir Ali) to Haidarabad

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Mirpur (8 do.).—Four coss from the Indus. Matela (5 do.).—Four coss from the Indus. Gotki (7 do.).—Two coss from the Indus. Dadla (8 do.).—Two coss from the Indus. Rohri Bakhar (20 do.).—Numerous hamlets and temporary villages, with many water-courses for cultivation in all this space.

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| | Coss. | |
| Khairpur (Sohrab-ka-) | 8 | Six coss from the Indus. |
| Gumat | 8 | |
| Ranipur (See route to it from Garhar). | 2 | The coss in this distance seems a medium between the pakka of two coss and the kachha of one and a half. The medium of one and three quarter miles to each coss, deducting a tenth for windings, appears, after numerous comparisons, to be just. This is alike applicable to all Upper Sind. |
| Hingor | 5 | |
| Bhiranapur | 5 | |
| Haliani | 1 | |
| Kanjara | 3 | |
| Naushahra | 8 | |
| Mora | 7 | |
| Shahpura | 3 | |
| Daulatpur | 3 | |
| Mirpur | 3 | On the Indus. Here Madari crossed to Sehwan, and returned to Mirpur. |
| Kazi-ka-Got | 9 | |
| Sakrand | 11 | The coss about two miles each ; which, deducting one in ten for windings of the road, may be protracted. |
| Hala | 7 | |
| Khardao | 4 | |
| Matari | 4 | |
| Haidarabad | 6 | |
| | TOTAL 145 COSS. | |

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Jaisalmer to Ikhtyar Khan-ki-Garhi

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Brahmsar (4 coss). Mordesar (3 do.) . Gugadeo (3 do.) . Kaimsar (5 do.) .

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These villages are all inhabited by Paliwal Brahmans, and are in the tract termed Kandal or Khadal, of which Katori, eight coss north of Jaisalmer, is the chief town of about forty villages.—N.B. All towns with the affix of sar have pools of water.

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Nohar-ki-Garhi (25 do.).—Rui or desert throughout this space. The castle of Nohar is of brick, and now belongs to Daudputra, who captured it from the Bhattis of Jaisalmer. About forty huts and little cultivation. It is a place of toll for the kitars or caravans; two rupees for each [340] camel-load of ghi, and four for one with sugar; half a rupee for each camel, and a third for an ox laden with grain. Murid Kot (24 coss).—*Rui* or desert. Rangarh is four coss east of this. Ikhtyar-ki-Garhi (15 do.).—*Rui* until the last four coss, or eight miles. Thence the descent from the *tibas* or sand-hills to the valley of the Indus. Total of this route, 79 coss.

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| | Ikhtyar to Ahmadpur | 18 | coss |
| | ” Khanpur | 5 | ” |
| | ” Sultanpur | 8 | ” |

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Jaisalmer to Sheo-Kotra, Kheralu, Chhotan, Nagar-Parkar, Mitti, and return to Jaisalmer.

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Dabla (3 do.).—Thirty houses, Pokharna Brahmans. Akali (2 do.).—Thirty houses, Chauhans, well and small talao. Chor (5 do.).—Sixty houses, mixed classes. Devikot (2 do.).—A small town of two hundred houses; belongs to the Jaisalmer fisc or khalisa. There is a little fort and garrison. A talao or pool excavated by the Paliwals, in which water remains throughout the year after much rain. Sangar (6 do.).—*N.B.* This route is to the east of that (following) by Chincha, the most direct road to Balotra, and the one usually travelled; but the villages are now deserted. Biasar (2 do.).—Forty houses, and talao. Bhikarae 2 coss distant. Mandai (frontier) (2½ do.).—Two hundred and fifty houses. Sahib Khan Sahariya with a hundred horse is stationed here; the town is khalisa and the last of Jaisalmer. The ridge from Jaisalmer is close to all the places on this route to Mandi. Gunga (4½ do.).—Thana, or post of Jodhpur. Sheo (2 do.).—A large town of three hundred houses, but many deserted, some through famine. Chief of a district. A Hakim resides here from Jodhpur; collects the transit dues, and protects the country from the depredations of the Sahariyas. Kotra (3 do.).—Town of five hundred houses, of which only two hundred are now inhabited. On the north-west side is a fort on the ridge. A Rathor chief resides here. The district of Sheo Kotra was taken from the Bhattis of Jaisalmer by the Rathors of Jodhpur. Vesala (6 do.).—In ancient times a considerable place; now only fifty houses. A fort on the ridge to the south-west, near two hundred feet high; connected with the Jaisalmer ridge, but often covered by the lofty *tibas* of sand.

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Kheralu (7 coss).—Capital of Kherdhar, one of the ancient divisions of Marusthali. Two coss south of Vesala crossed a pass over the hills.

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Chhotan (10 do.).—An ancient city, now in ruins, having at present only about eighty houses, inhabited by the Sahariyas [341].

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Bankasar (11 do.). Formerly a large city, now only about three hundred and sixty houses.

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Bhil-ki-basti (5 do.) Chauhan-ka-pura (6 do.) } Few huts in each.

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Nagar (3 do.).—A large town, capital of Parkar, containing one thousand five hundred houses, of which one-half are inhabited.

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Kaim Khan Sahariya-ki-basti (18 do.).—Thirty houses in the thal; wells, with water near the surface; three coss to the east the boundary of Sind and the Chauhan Raj.

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Dhat-ka-pura (15 do.).—A hamlet; Rajputs, Bhils, and Sahariyas.

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Mitti or Mittri-ka-kot (3 do.).—A town of six hundred houses in Dhat, or the division of Umarkot belonging to Haidarabad; a relative of whose prince, with the title of Nawab, resides here; a place of great commerce, and also of transit for the caravans; a fortified mahall to the south-west. When the Shah of Kabul used to invade Sind, the Haidarabad prince always took refuge here with his family and valuables. The sand-hills are immensely high and formidable.

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Chailasar (10 do.).—Four hundred houses, inhabited by Sahariyas, Brahmans, Bijaranis, and Banias; a place of great importance to the transit trade.

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Samaicha-ki-basti (10 do.).—Thal from Chailasar.

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Nur Ali, Pani-ka-Tar (9 do.).—Sixty houses of Charans, Sultana Rajputs and Kauravas (qu. the ancient Kauravas ?) water (pani-ka-tar) plenty in the thal.

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Rual (5 do.).—Twelve hamlets termed bas, scattered round a tract of several coss, inhabited by different tribes, after whom they are named, as Sodha, Sahariya, Kaurava, Brahman, Bania and Sutar, as Sodha-ka-bas, Sahariya-ka-bas, or habitations of the Sodhas; of the Sahariyas, etc. etc. (see p. 1263).

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Deli (7 do.).—One hundred houses; a dani, or collector of duties, resides here.

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Garara (10 do.).—Described in route from Umarkot to Jaisalmer.

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Raedana (11 do.).—Forty houses; a lake formed by damming up the water. Agar, or salt-pans.

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Kotra (9 do.).

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Sheo (3 do.).—The whole space from Nagar to Sheo-Kotra is a continuous mass of lofty sand-hills (thal-ka-tiba), scattered with hamlets (purwas), in many parts affording abundant pasture for flocks of sheep, goats, buffaloes, and camels;

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the *thal* extends south to Nawakot and Balwar, about ten coss south of the former and two of the latter. To the left of Nawakot are the flats of Talpura, or Lower Sind.

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Jaisalmer to Sheo Kotra, Barmer, Nagar-Gura and Suigam.

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Dhana (5 coss).—Two hundred houses of Paliwals; pool and wells; ridge two to three hundred feet high, cultivation between the ridges. Chincha (7 do.).—Small hamlet; Sara, half a coss east; ridge, low *thal*, cultivation. Jasrana (2 do.).—Thirty houses of Paliwals, as before; Kita to the right half a coss. Unda (1 do.).—Fifty houses of Paliwals and Jain Rajputs; wells and pools; country as before [342]. Sangar (2 do.).—Sixty houses; only fifteen inhabited, the rest fled to Sind during the famine of 1813; Charans. Grand *thal* commences. Sangar-ka-talao (½ do.).—Water remains generally eight months in the talao or pool, sometimes the whole year. Bhikarae (1½ do.) Kharel (4 do.) } Between is the *sandh* or boundary of Jaisalmer and Jodhpur. Bhikarae has one hundred and twenty houses of Paliwals; wells and pools at both places. Rajarel (1 do.).—Seventy houses; most deserted since famine. Gonga (4 do.).—Hamlet of twenty huts; beras, or small wells and pools; to this the ridge and *thal* intermingle. Sheo (2 do.).—Capital of the district. Nimla (4 do.).—Forty houses; deserted. Bhadka (2 do.).—Four hundred houses; deserted. This is “the third year of famine!” Kapulri (3 do.).—Thirty huts, deserted; wells. Jalepa (3 do.).—Twenty huts; deserted. Nagar (Gurha) (20 do.).—This is a large town on the west bank of the Luni River, of four to five hundred houses, but many deserted since the famine, which has almost depopulated this region. In 1813 the inhabitants were flying as far as the Ganges, and selling themselves and offspring into slavery to save life. Barmer (6 do.).—A town of twelve hundred houses. Guru (2 do.).—West side of the Luni; town of seven hundred houses; the chief is styled Rana, and of the Chauhan tribe. Bata (3 do.).—West side of river. Patarna (1 do.) } West side of river. Gadla (1 do.) Ranas (3 do.).—East side of river. Charani (2 do.).—Seventy houses; east side. Chitalwana (2 do.).—Town of three hundred houses; east side of river ; belonging to a Chauhan chief, styled Rana. Sanchor seven coss to the south. Ratra (2 coss).—East side of river ; deserted. Hotiganw (2 do.).—South side of river ; temple to Phulmukheshwar Mahadeo. Dhuta (2 do.) Tapi (2 do.) { North side. On the west side the thal is very heavy; east side is plain; both sides well cultivated. Lalpura (2 do.).—West side. Surpura (1 do.).—Crossed river. Sanloti (2 do.).—Eighty houses, east side of river. Butera (2 do.).—East side ; relation of the Rana resides here. Narke (4 do.).—South side river ; Bhils and Sonigiras. Karoi (4 do.).—Sahariyas [343]. Pitlana (2 do.).—Large village ; Kolis and Pitals. Dharanidhar (3 do.).—Seven or eight hundred houses, nearly deserted, belonging to Suigam. Bah (4 do.).—Capital of Rana Narayan Rao, Chauhan prince of Virawah. Luna (5 do.).—One hundred houses. Sui (7 do.).—Residence of Chauhan chief.

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Balotra on the Luni River to Pokaran and Jaisalmer.

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Panchbhadra (3 do.).—Balotra fair on the 11th Magh—continues ten days. Balotra has four to five hundred houses in the tract called Siwanchi; the ridge unites with Jalor and Siwana. Panchbhadra has two hundred houses, almost all deserted since the famine. Here is the celebrated Agar, or salt-lake, yielding considerable revenue to the government. Gopti (2 coss).—Forty houses ; deserted ; one coss north of this the deep thal commences. Patod (4 do.).—A considerable commercial mart; four hundred houses ; cotton produced in great quantities. Sivai (4 do.).—Two hundred houses, almost deserted. Serara (1 do.).—Sixty houses. To Patod the tract is termed Siwanchi; from thence Indhavati, from the ancient lords of the Indha tribe. Bungara (3 do.) Solankitala (4 do.) Pongali (5 do.) { Bungara has seventy houses, Solankitala four hundred, and Pongali sixty. Throughout sand-hills. This tract is called Thalecha, and the Rathors who inhabit it, Thalecha Rathors. There are many of the Jat or Jāt tribe as cultivators. Pongali a Charan community. Bakri (5 do.).—One hundred houses ; inhabited by Charans. Dholsar (4 do.).—Sixty houses, inhabited by Paliwal Brahmans. Pokaran (4 do.).—From Bakri commences the Pokaran district; all flat, and though sandy, no tibas or hills.

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Udhania (6 coss).—Fifty houses ; a pool the south side. Lahti (7 do.).—Three hundred houses ; Paliwal Brahmans. Sodhakur (2 do.) } Sodhakur has thirty houses and Chandan fifty ; Channda (4 do.) } Paliwals. Dry nala at the latter ; water obtained by digging in its bed. Bhojka (3 do.).—One coss to the left is the direct road to Basanki, seven coss from Chandan. Basanki-talao (5 do.).—One hundred houses ; Paliwals. Moklet (1½ do.).—Twelve houses ; Pokharna Brahmans. Jaisalmer (4 do.).—From Pokaran to Udhania, the road is over a low ridge of rocks ; thence to Lahti is a well-cultivated plain, the ridge being on the left. A small thal intervenes at Sodhakur, thence to Chandan, plain. From Chandan to Basanki the road again traverses the low ridge, increasing in height, and with occasional cultivation, to Jaisalmer [344].

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Bikaner to Ikhtyar Khan-ki Garhi, on the Indus.

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Nai-ki-basti (4 do.) Gajner (5 do.) Gurha (5 do.) Bitnok (5 do.) Girajsar (8 do.) Narai (4 do.) } Sandy plains ; water at all these villages. From Girajsar, the Jaisalmer frontier, the tibas, or sand-hills commence, and continue moderate to Bikampur.

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Bikampur (9 do.) } Bikampur to Mohangarh, rui or desert all the way, having considerable sand-hills and jungle. Mohangarh (16 do.) }

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Nachna (16 do.).—Tibas, or sand-hills throughout this space. Narai (9 do.).—A Brahman village. Nohar-ki-Garhi (24 do.).—Deep rui or desert ; the frontier garrison of Sind ; the garhi, or castle, held by Haji Khan. Murid Kot (24 coss).—Rui, high sand-hills. Garhi Ikhtyar Khan-ki (18 do.)—The best portion of this through the Kachhi, or flats of the valley. Garhi on the Indus. Total 147 coss, equal to 220½ miles, the coss being about a mile and a half each ; 200 English miles of horizontal distance to be protracted [345].

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