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History of Technology in India, Vol. I: From Antiquity to c. 1200 A.D. v1.c20.s2.t1: Hair dyes

History of Technology in India, Vol. I: From Antiquity to c. 1200 A.D. v1.c20.s2.t1

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English

Hair dyes

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People in ancient India were highly fashion conscious and they used special dyes to blacken their grey hair. Varāhamihira gives a method of preparing hair dyes from kodrava taṇḍula (grains of harika, Paspalum scrobiculatum) and Loha cūrṇa.(Bṛh. S.77.1-3) In the Bower manuscript, there is a mention of sulphates of copper and iron boiled with the oil of beleric myrobalan as a remedy for turning grey hair into black in a formula for hair-dye (Bower Ms.,Ray, p.68). Even though the manuscript is said to be of the 14th century A.D., the contents should represent knowledge acquired in earlier centuries. P.K. Gode had made mention of a very ancient work Nāvanītaka of 2nd century A.D. in which recipes for hair dyes are given. It is advised that after washing the hair with chebulic and emblic myrobalans, the hair should be anointed with a paste of alambusa (Sphaerantus indicus) and indigo. A paste of indigo, rock salt, long pepper with water is a hair-dye which will turn the grey hair black as antimony. Several such recipes are given to prepare hair dyes (Nāvanītaka, Gode, Vol.I)

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Among the several ingredients prescribed for the preparation of hair-dyes, several plants and minerals are included as colouring agents. Rocana (Bezoar), Kācamācī (Solanum nigrum), nīlikā, nīlī (dyers indigo), abhaya (harītakī), inknut, ayoraja, powder gum, tuttham (copper sulphate), kāsīsam (iron sulphate, green vitriol), nīlotpala (blue lily), jambū (black plum), kakubhaphalam (fruit of Arjuna tree), añjanavarṇa (mud of the colour of añjana), asana kaṣāya (extract or dicoction of asaṇa), mardayati (henna) and a few more.

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Madayantikā, which is mentioned in many ancient texts, is mentioned in Navanītaka as an ingredient for hair-dye. It is identified as mendī also for colouring nails. Hence madayantikā was, no doubt, a plant yielding a dye used in the preparation of cosmetics and hair-dyes during the 2nd and 3rd centuries A.D. Some of the ingredients given above were obviously used as dye- producing agents in hair-dyes. Some among them were used as dye- producing agents in ink manufacture also.

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