[Pramāṇa](https://indike.org/pramana/) › [Studies](https://indike.org/pramana/ins) › [Science, technology and education](https://indike.org/pramana/ins.science) › [History of Technology in India, Vol. I: From Antiquity to c. 1200 A.D.](https://indike.org/pramana/ins.science.bag-1997) › v1.c23.s3 # History of Technology in India, Vol. I: From Antiquity to c. 1200 A.D. v1.c23.s3: Indian Predelictions in colour and levels attained in Dye Technology History of Technology in India, Vol. I: From Antiquity to c. 1200 A.D. v1.c23.s3 - **Language:** English ### Indian Predelictions in colour and levels attained in Dye Technology ### [v1.c23.s3.1](https://indike.org/pramana/ins.science.bag-1997.v1.c23.s3.1) By and large, pre-Islamic Indian predelictions in colour tended towards a sober palate ²¹. The range of colour in cotton dyeing was based on blue and black from \*Indigofera tinctoria\*, black from iron acetate or a ferrugenous earth from Kutch called \*Khayo\*, red from either \*Rubia cordifolia\*, \*Morinda citrifolia\* or \*Ventilago madraspatana\*, yellow from \*Curcuma longa\* (turmeric), \*Punica granatam\* (pomegranate rind) or \*Mangifera indica\* (mango bark extract). Different shades could be obtained by combining individual dyeing procedures. Tanning and mordanting were very important pre-dyeing operations for cotton ²². In Egypt mordanting in linen was practiced but the importance of tanning for fixing of the mordant was mastered in India ²³. There is some variation in methods of dyeing and dyes used in the range of fibres such as silk and wool ²⁴. In the case of silk, efficient degumming is essential for success in subsequent dyeing operations. Generally, the yarn rather than the woven fabric has been dyed. ### [v1.c23.s3.2](https://indike.org/pramana/ins.science.bag-1997.v1.c23.s3.2) Techniques of patterning achieved through variation in colour are associated with the practice of \*ikat\*, \*plāngī\*, painting or block printing. Batik as practiced in Indonesia involving usage of cold dyes is alien to the Indian tradition. However, in Mundhra, Kutch, there is a tradition of resist dyeing in which the resist paste, \*minia\*, is made of a mixture of top soil of goats pens which includes goats droppings, \*gugul\* local incense resin, olibanum, Fuller's earth and gum made into paste consistency which withstands hot dyeing. The colour palette comprised red, white and black. (Oral information: Shri Khodidas Parmar, Bhavnagar.) The earliest methods of dye patterning were accomplished by resisting through knotting of either the yarn as in \*ikat\*, or the finished product, as in \*plāngī/bandhanī\*, prior to processes of colouration. Fabrics could also be dye-patterned either by means of painting, or by stamping of mordant and resist with wooden blocks, the end product was called \*Kalamkari\* or Cit²⁵. Tie & dye may be practiced on wool, silk and cotton. In India painting and stamping has tended to predominate on cotton. ### [v1.c23.s3.3](https://indike.org/pramana/ins.science.bag-1997.v1.c23.s3.3) ²⁵ \*Kalamkari\* or Cit. --- Source: [https://indike.org/pramana/ins.science.bag-1997.v1.c23.s3](https://indike.org/pramana/ins.science.bag-1997.v1.c23.s3) · Pramāṇa