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History of Technology in India, Vol. I: From Antiquity to c. 1200 A.D. v1.c37.s1.t3: Leather Sandal

History of Technology in India, Vol. I: From Antiquity to c. 1200 A.D. v1.c37.s1.t3

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English

Leather Sandal

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A leather sandal took the main role in life according to Kauṭilya 4th century B.C. and therein he says ‘Smearing sandals made of camel hide with the fat of the owl Fig.2. Ancient leathercraft for defence use a) Armour for horse arment b) Armour gauntlet for the right hand and forearm c) Egyptian war chariot d) & (e) Leather shield and the vulture, covering them with leaves of the banyan tree, one walks fifty yojanas without being fatigued’. We know, at present, that it is very comfortable to walk a long distance with shoes instead of bare footed. According to the Hindu caste system, cāmār is the tanner and mocī, the shoe maker. Manu Smriti (first century B.C.) mentions that a pair of leather sandals was a suitable gift for a guru. In the ‘Mitra records’ Toy Cart of Sudraka (first century B.C.) a lady with muslin attire with a pair of leather slippers showing that in ancient time as, at present, woman of the town were in the habit of wearing shoes. The Visnu Purana recommends the use of shoes when walking out of the house, particularly in thorny place and on hot sand. The sun god presented a pair of chappals and umbrella to Jamadagni for protection against the hot sun.

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(a) (b) (c) (d) (e)

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Panini, the grammarian (350 B.C.) speaks of the anūpadina - a variety of boots. Paramananda (57 B.C.) also mentions it in his Amarkośamālā. The use of hog skin for the preparation of shoes has also been mentioned in the Vedas. Arians says in 2000 B.C., ‘They, the Indians wore shoes made of white leather (probably alum tanned) and they are elaborately trimmed while the shoes are variegated and made of great thickness to make the wearer seem much taller’.

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The footwear worn by Kannappa Nayanar of 10th century A.D. exhibited in the Tanjore Art Gallery appears to have been made of leather. Some miniatures also show the practice of wearing footwear by the ancient Indian rulers. The disciple Raidas, a shoe maker, used to present to all wandering ascetics new shoes. Shoes were offered not only to sadhus but also to gods. Different patterns of Farmers’ shoe like the shepherd shoe, Okhai shoe etc. are available throughout Saurashtra and Kutch regions. Made by the native artisans, these are primarily used by the peasants and other village folks and normally not worn by the educated class of people. Made from the vegetable tanned leather, some varieties are usually heavy and sturdy; some are extremely light and soft. The leather soles and heels are made with several layers and laced with leather thongs tucked with horse shoes and other iron pieces and nails, the sole and heels are noticeably strong to withstand wear and tear. Some variety is plain and simple, but some are heavily adorned with eyelets, tinsels, coloured threads.

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Generally the shoes are not marked for the right or the left which also indicates these are very ancient. The toes are sometimes upturned. Velvet upper with leather lining is used for ladies’ shoes. The marriage shoes are admirably ornamented.

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Kolhapuri chappal is a model footwear of Indian tradition (Fig 3). Its name and fame have gained popularity even across the oceans. The lightness, softness and the walking comforts are the characteristics of Kolhapuri. This is also known as ‘Attani’ and ‘Nippam’ chappal as the ancestors of Kolhapuri chappal makers are said to have hailed from Attani and Nippani in Mysore. Finely decorated with braided laces, the slipper is handmade from bark tanned leather. The sole is laced with leather thongs, the straps of the chappal are attractively made and perforated with hand tools.

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Maharashtra is also the home for another Indian traditional footwear called ‘Horāci’ chappal. The upper of this type of slipper is made from hand woven laces.

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(a) (b) (c) (d)

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Fig.3. Ancient leathercraft for footwear a) Sūrya’s Boot (Delhi National Museum), b) Buddha’s Sandal (Egmore Museum), c) Leather Sandal in Egyptian Tomb (Coutesy Metropolitan Museum of Art) d) Carftsmanship from Punjab The fancy form of Chamba sandal of Himachal is handed down for centuries. The noticeable features of the Chamba sandal are the colourful hand embroidery; and the upturned toe is an elongated strap skillfully incorporated into the woven vamp. The age old pattern of Kabul sandal of the north western frontier and Punjab have some similarities in construction.

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Ladies slipper (juti) from white leather without the mark for the right or left foot are found in Punjab and the neighbouring states. The hand embroidery work of the footwear in white silk are similar to those of the Punjab ‘phulkāri’ techniques.

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The toes of the closed type slippers are broad somewhat round and narrow. The open type is flat.

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It is difficult to reckon how old the pattern of ‘nāgrā juti’ is. The exquisite needle work in gold and silver threads of the juti for both men and woman reflects the Persian style. The gilt ornamental slipper is also known as the bridal shoe ‘Zari juti’ etc. A photograph of excellent embroidered juti has been recorded by John Waterer. The artistic footwear was so fascinating that the native crafts were patronised by the rulers and rich families of India. The artisans flourished mainly in and around Delhi, Rajasthan and Punjab and other northern states. Light in weight, hand dyed and hand stitched, the designs of nāgrā are sometimes plain, sometimes decorated with spangles, tinsels and eyelets. ‘Nari juti’ (slipper for woman) like other ‘nāgrā’ pattern, does not mark for right or left foot as it was common in the ancient time in India and other countries.

Cites (6)