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Minerals and Metals in Ancient India v2.c38.s5: Ornaments and Gems

Minerals and Metals in Ancient India v2.c38.s5

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Ornaments and Gems

v2.c38.s5.1

In the *Ṛgveda*, silver has been mentioned only once (*rajata*, 8.25.22). The Sarasvatī Valley has been far from the sources of silver. The Indus system of rivers however provided bank sands containing alluvial gold particles. These rivers were called *hiraṇyavartanī* (6.61.7, 8.26.18, 10.75.8), the golden ways.

v2.c38.s5.2

Quite naturally, the *Ṛgveda* contains references to many golden objects such as a pitcher made of gold (1.117.12). *Khādi* was the general term for golden ornaments: bracelet, armlet or bangle *hasteṣu khādi* (1.168.3) *khādi hastaṃ* (5.58.2), anklet, *patsu khādayo* (5.54.11), shoulder decoration, *aṃseṣu khādayo* (7.56.13) etc. On the finger, *khādi* was known as *vṛṣakhādi* or ring (1.64.10). Armlet or *kavaca* was also known as *pratyatkān* (5.55.6). The golden crown or tiara was known as *śiprā*; this was worn on the forehead:

v2.c38.s5.3

शिप्राः शीर्षसु वितता हिरण्ययीः
*śiprāḥ śīrṣasu vitatā hiraṇyayīḥ*
(5.54.11, 8.7.25)

v2.c38.s5.4

*Rukmā* was defined as the chest ornament made of gold : *vakṣaḥsu rukmā* (5.54.11).

v2.c38.s5.5

Gold ornamental pieces to decorate neck were known as *niṣka* (2.33.10). *Niṣkagrība* meant golden necklace (5.19.3). There was no minted money or golden coin during the *Ṛgvedic* era, but possibly *niṣka*, as a golden lump, often served as the barter or exchange unit of money (1.126.2, 4.37.4, 5.27.2).

v2.c38.s5.6

*Añji* (5.53.4) and *svadhā* (4.10.6) were certain kinds of ornaments, the details of which are not known. *Karṇaśovana* (8.78.3) was evidently the golden ornament for the ear. Excavations at Banawālī have yielded gold necklaces, gold beads and gold-plated terracotta beads. (Bisht, 1982)

v2.c38.s5.7

The *Ṛgveda* refers to gems or *ratna* several times starting from its very first hymn (1.1.1). The other name of gem was *maṇi*, that which decorates (*maṇḍana*). Gems other than metallic gems were specially recognised.

v2.c38.s5.8

हिरण्येन मणिना श्रुम्भमानाः
*hiraṇyena maṇinā śrumbhamāṇāḥ*
(1.33.8)

v2.c38.s5.9

हिरण्यकर्ण मणीग्रीवम्
*hiraṇyakarṇam maṇigrīvam*
(1.122.14)

v2.c38.s5.10

The latter reference alludes to golden ear-ring and a necklace made of gems the like of which has been found at Banawālī. (Bisht, 1982) The *Rgveda* does not discuss different kinds of gems but at least one, namely pearl or *kṛśana* has been specifically mentioned: *abhivṛtam kṛśanai* (1.35.4).

v2.c38.s5.11

Archaeological excavations at Kālībaṅgan have yielded bangles of copper, shell and terracotta, beads of shell, copper, agate and carnelian copper mirrors, ivory combs, etc. At Banawālī we find in the Pre-Harappan level beads of gold, semi-precious stones, steatite (including disc beads), faience, shell, bone and clay; bangles of shell, faience and copper. At the Mature-Harappan level, a jewellery dealer’s large house has been excavated. This was found to contain beads of etched carnelian, gold and lapis lazuli. Also found were gold-plated terracotta beads and numerous steatite seals. At Banawālī, beautiful golden ornaments and finely cut smoky brown crystal stones showed the heights of fine gem craftsmanship. Evidently this river-port was an important and prosperous trading centre. During the Post-Harappan period, the cultural pattern changed at Banawālī. The Harappan seal, chert weights, steatite disc beads, etc. disappeared. The Indus economy had collapsed. But the qualitative and quantitative profusion of faience ornaments such as bangles, anklets, rings, beads and *pipal*-leaf-shaped ear-rings continued to meet the local requirements. The faience items had noteworthy and shiny silvery coatings.

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