四分律刪繁補闕行事鈔 3.31

3.31

Eighth: the method for making the robes. Dharmaguptaka: The great robe and seven-stripe robe must be cut into sections; the five-stripe robe may have pleated folds. Mahāsāṃghika: If making a robe with others assisting and it is feared it cannot be completed in one day, one should make coarse stitches to finish quickly; after formally determining it, one then stitches it finely. The Madhyama-āgama states: 'The Bhagavat personally cut out the three robes for Aniruddha, and eight hundred bhikṣus joined them together simultaneously, whereupon they were completed.' Dharmaguptaka: If a bhikṣuṇī fails to finish the saṃghāṭī in five days, she incurs a pāyattika; a bhikṣu incurs a duṣkṛta. Sarvāstivāda: If, due to conditions, one obtains a piece of cotton cloth and designates it for making the three robes, one does not commit the offense of keeping an extra robe. If [the cloth] falls short of one robe beyond five cubits, or short of two robes beyond ten cubits, if there is an excess, one must declare it for purification. Dharmaguptaka: If one obtains an undivided robe whose width and length are sufficient, but if cut and tailored into a robe it would be deficient, he is ordered to make it with patched folds. If making a robe of five patched strips and one obtains a fragment of fine-colored cloth, it may also be cut to make the robe of five patched strips. Pañcavargika: If one dyes an undivided robe to make stripes, or stitches folds onto the robe (nowadays, patched folds are often sewn on), or pleats it to make folds (the Dharmaguptaka permits pleating the lower robe), or makes folds half facing upward and half facing downward, all are duṣkṛta. If one stitches onto the robe with multicolored threads where the stripes and panels are, this is a tīrthika practice and is a sthūlātyaya. Ānanda received instruction to make the robes for the bhikṣus: the left stripes lay to the left, the right stripes lay to the right, and the middle stripe's folds lay to both sides. If the cloth obtained is insufficient, one may make it with even one long and one short [panel]; if it is still too little, he is permitted to make it with patched folds; if still insufficient, he is permitted to make an undivided antarvāsa. Following this, originally it was a great robe, but due to insufficiency it is completed according to the lower precedent; the formal determining procedure properly accords with the two grades, and logically must be applied analogously; in the Daśādhyāya-vinaya, there is an undivided saṃghāṭī and so forth. Mahāsāṃghika: One must not paint the folds and stitch them edge to edge; one must cut them out to make the folds. At the widest they should be four fingers, and at the narrowest like a grain of wheat. Horizontal folds must not directly face each other. After sewing the folds of the robe, if the robe frays, one should make horse-tooth stitches; if the top or bottom of the robe tears, one should attach a border, which must be backstitched. In urgent circumstances, distinguish as stated before. If borrowing a layperson's quilt to make into one of the three robes, first purify it, attach the loop and fastener, and formally determine it. In the Daśādhyāya-vinaya, the Buddha personally taught the bhikṣus the method of attaching the loop and fastener: four fingers away from the border in front, attach the loop; eight fingers away from the border in back, attach the fastener; it should be made like this. According to this, it is because on the left shoulder, it is constantly covered by the right corner of the robe; this is from the Vinaya. The Daśādhyāya-vinaya also states: 'Backstitching is permitted by the Buddha and may be kept and used according to Dharma; straight stitching is not permitted, as it is the clothing of worldly people; this is to differ from the worldly and also to guard against tīrthikas.' It also states: 'If patching a robe with cloth of one or two feet, all must be backstitched; if straight-stitched, when the robe's owner passes away, this piece of cloth should be removed and given to the saṃgha and to the caretaker of the sick.' The Dharmaguptaka only mentions sewing the saṃghāṭī; one should apply the Daśādhyāya-vinaya by analogy. The Sanqian weiyi says: 'Patch the four corners of the three robes.' The Daśādhyāya-vinaya says the same. The Dharmaguptaka says to pull the corners straight and attach patches, etc. It also says: 'One should attach hooks and loops, and attach patches on the shoulder to block grime and sweat.' Daśādhyāya-vinaya: If a bhikṣu wearing pāmśukūla robes, because the Buddha prohibited entering villages without wearing a cut robe, then patches it to make borders and borders around it, the Buddha said: 'He should cut it immediately and attach patches above; it then counts as formally determined.' The clear text of the Daśādhyāya-vinaya permits wearing it to enter [villages]. According to this, for those poor and short of robes, entering the secular realm is definitely permitted.