The Memoirs of Jahāngīr (Jahāngīrnāma) 12: Journey to Kabul.
Dwázda-Sála-i Jahángírí; Wáki’át Jahángírí, of the Emperor Jahángír (Elliot & Dowson, extracts) 12
- Language
- English
Contents
Journey to Kabul.
12.1.1
On the 7th of Zi-l hijja, at a prosperous hour, I left the fort of Lahore, and crossing the Ravi, alighted at the garden of Dilamez, and stopped there for four days. I passed Sunday, the 19th of Farwardin, which was the day of the Sun’s entry into Aries, in that garden. Some of my servants were favoured with promotion. Ten thousand rupees in cash were given to Husain Beg, the ambassador of the ruler of Iran. I left Kalij Khan, Miran Sadr-jahan, and Mir Sharif Amali at Lahore, and authorized them to conduct all transactions in concert with each other. On Monday I marched from the garden to the village called Haripur, three and a half kos from the city. On Tuesday, my flags waved in Jahangirpur, which was a hunting-ground of mine. Near this village a minaret was raised by my orders over an antelope of mine, called “Raj,” which was not only the best fighter in my possession, but was the best decoy for wild ones. Mulla Muhammad Husain of Kashmir, who in caligraphy excelled all persons of his profession, had engraved the following words on a piece of stone : “ In this delightful spot an antelope was caught by the Emperor Nuru-d din Muhammad Jahangir, which in the space of a month became entirely tame, and was considered the best of all the royal antelopes.” Out of regard to this animal I ordered that no one should hunt antelopes in this forest, and that their flesh should be considered as unlawful as that of a cow to the infidel Hindus, and as that of a hog to the Musulmans.
12.1.2
The stone of its tomb was carved into the shape of a deer. I ordered Sikandar Mai, the jagirdar of the pargana, to erect a fort in Jahangirpur. On Thursday, the 14th, we encamped in the pargana of Chandwala, and, after one intervening stage, arrived on Saturday at Hafizabad, and put up in the buildings erected under the superintendence of Mir Kiranu-d din, who held the office of krori at that station. In two marches more I reached the banks of the Chinab. On Thursday, the 21st Zi-l hijja, I crossed the river over a bridge of boats, and pitched my tents in the pargana of Gujarat. When the Emperor Akbar was proceeding to Kashmir, he built a fort on the other side of the river, and made the Gujars, who had been hitherto devoted to plunder, dwell there. The place was consequently named Gujarat, and formed into a separate pargana. The Gujars live chiefly upon milk and curds, and seldom cultivate land.
12.1.3
On Friday we arrived at Khawaspur, five kos from Gujarat, which was peopled by Khawas Khan, a servant of Sher Khan Pathan. Beyond it, after two marches, we reached the banks of the Behat, and pitched our tents there. In the night a very strong wind blew, dark clouds obscured the sky, and it rained so heavily that even the oldest persons had never seen such rain within their memory. The rain ended with showers of hailstones, which were as large as hens’ eggs. The torrent of water and the wind combined broke the bridge. I with my ladies crossed the river in a boat, and as there were but very few boats for the other men to embark on, I ordered that they should wait till the bridge was repaired, which was accomplished in a week, when the whole camp crossed the river without any trouble.
12.1.4
The source of the river Behat is a fountain in Kashmir, called Virnag. The name signifies in the Hindi language a snake, and it appears that at one time a very large snake haunted the spot. I visited this source twice during the lifetime of my father. It is about twenty kos from the city of Kashmir. The spring rises in a basin, of an octangular form, about twenty yards in length, by twenty in breadth. The vestiges of the abodes of devotees, numerous chambers made of stone, and caves, are in the neighbourhood. Its water is so clear that although its depth is said to be beyond estimation, yet if a poppy-seed be thrown in, it will be visible till it reaches the bottom. There are very fine fish in it. As I was told that the fountain was unfathomably deep, I ordered a stone to be tied to the end of a rope and thrown into it, and thus it was found that its depth did not exceed the height of a man and a half. After my accession, I ordered its sides to be paved with stones, a garden to be made round it, and the stream which flowed from it to be similarly decorated on both sides. Such elegant chambers and edifices were raised on each side of the basin, that there is scarcely anything to equal it throughout the inhabited world. The river expands much when it reaches near the village of Pampur, which is ten kos from the city.
12.1.5
All the saffron of Kashmir is the product of this village. Perhaps there is no other place in the world where saffron is so abundantly produced : the quantity annually yielded there being 500 maunds of Hindustan, or 4000 maunds of Kabul (wiláyat). I visited this place once with my father in the season in which the plant blossoms. In all other trees we see they first get the branches, then the leaves, and after all the flower. But it is otherwise with this plant. It blossoms when it is only about two inches high from the ground. Its flower is of a bluish colour, having four leaves and four threads of orange colour, like those of safflower, in length equal to one joint of the finger. The fields of saffron are sometimes a kos, sometimes half a kos in length, and they look very beautiful at a distance. In the season when it is collected, it has such a strong smell that people get headache from it. Although I had taken a glass of wine, yet I was also affected by it. I asked the Kashmirians, who were employed in collecting it, whether it took any effect upon them, and was surprised by the reply, which was, “they did not know even what the headache was.”
12.1.6
The stream that flows from the fountain of Virnag is called Behat in Kashmir, and becomes a large river, when it is joined by many other smaller ones on both sides. It runs through the city. In some places its breadth does not exceed the reach of an arrow shot from a bow. Nobody drinks its water, because it is very dirty and unwholesome. All people drink from a tank called Dal, which is near the city. The river Behat, after falling into this tank, takes its course through Barah-Mulah, Pakali, and Damtaur, and then enters the Panjab. There are many rivulets and fountains in Kashmir, but Darah-lar, which joins the Behat at the village of Shahabu-d dinpur, is the best of all the streams.
12.1.7
This village is one of the most famous places in Kashmir; and in it, in a piece of verdant land, there are nearly a hundred handsome plane trees, the branches of which interlace and afford a deep and extensive shade. The surface of the land is so covered with green that it requires no carpet to be spread on it. The village was founded by Sultan Zainu-l ’Abidin, who ruled firmly over Kashmir for fifty-two years. He is called there Baroshah, or the Great King. He is said to have performed many miracles. The remains of his many buildings are still to be seen there; and among these there is a building called Rain Lanka, which he built with great difficulty in the middle of the lake called Ulur (Wulur), about three or four in circumference. This lake is exceedingly deep. To form the foundation of the building, boat-loads of stone were thrown into the lake; but as this proved of no use, some thousands of boats laden with stones were sunk, and so with great labour a foundation of a hundred yards square was raised above the water, and smoothed. On one side of it were erected a palace and a place for the worship of God, than which no finer buildings can anywhere be found. Generally he used to come to this place in a boat, and devoted his time there to the worship of Almighty God. It is said that he passed many periods of forty days in this place. One day one of his sons came into the sacred place, with a drawn sword in his hand, with the intention of killing him.
12.1.8
But as soon as his eye fell upon him, the natural affection of the son and the royal dignity of the parent struck him with dismay, and diverted him from his purpose. After a short time the King came out, and having embarked in the same boat with his son, returned towards the city. Midway he told his son that he had left behind him his rosary, and asked him to return in a skiff and bring it to him. When the Prince went back to the building, he was amazed to find the King also there. He was exceedingly sorry for what he had done, and immediately fell at his feet, soliciting forgiveness for his conduct. The King is said to have performed many such miracles, and that he could assume any form he liked. Reflecting on the habits and manners of his sons, and knowing that they were very impatient and anxious to ascend the throne, he told them that with him it was easy to resign the crown and to die, but that they could do nothing after him, for their government would not last long, and but few days would elapse before they would see the reward of their conduct. Having said this, he left off eating and drinking, and passed forty days in the same manner. He did not even doze during this interval of time, but like a great saint he directed his whole attention to the worship of the Omnipotent God. On the fortieth day he delivered his soul to the angel of death, and met with the mercy of his Maker.
12.2.1
He left three sons, viz. Adam Khan, Haji Khan, and Bahram Khan. They quarrelled among themselves, and at last lost the dominions of their father. The sovereignty of Kashmir fell into the hands of a class called Chaks, who were formerly but common soldiers. Three rulers of this tribe constructed three buildings on the remaining three faces of the foundation which was laid by Zainu-l ’Abidin in the lake of Ulur, but none of them is so substantial as the first one built by that King. Kashmir is a delightful country in the seasons of autumn and spring. I visited it in the former season, and found it even more charming than I had anticipated. I never was there in spring, but I hope some time or other to be there during that season.
12.2.2
On Saturday, the 1st of Muharram, I marched from the bank of the Behat to Rohtas, with one stage intervening. The fort of Rohtas is one of the buildings of Sher Khan Afghan, and is constructed amongst the ravines, where it was scarcely conceivable that so strong a position could have been obtained. As this tract is near the country of the Gakkhurs, a troublesome and turbulent race, it came into his head to build this fort for the purpose of overawing and controlling them. Sher Khan died when only a portion of the work was done, but it was completed by his son Salim Khan. Over one of the doors the cost of the fort is engraven on a stone, which is set in the wall. The amount is 16,10,00,000 dams and something more, which is 34,25,000 rupees of Hindustan, 120,000 tumans of Iran, or 1,21,75,000 khanis of Turan. On Tuesday, the 4th, I marched four kos and three-quarters to Tillah, which means “a hill” in the Gakkhur language.
12.2.3
From that place I marched to the village of Bhakra, which in the language of the same people is the name of a shrub with white flowers without any odour. From Tillah to Bhakra I marched the whole way through the bed of a river, in which water was then flowing, and the oleander bushes were in full bloom, and of exquisite colour, like peach blossoms. In Hindustan this evergreen is always in flower. There were very many growing at the sides of this stream, and I ordered my personal attendants, both horse and foot, to bind bunches of the flowers in their turbans, and I directed that the turbans of those who would not decorate themselves in this fashion should be taken off their heads. I thus got up a beautiful garden. On Thursday, the 6th, Hatya was the encamping ground. On this march a great many Palas shrubs were found in blossom. This shrub is also peculiar to the jungles of Hindustan. It has no fragrance in its flowers, which are of a fiery orange colour. The trunk is black. The flowers are the size of a red rose, or even bigger. It was such a sight that it was impossible to take one’s eyes off it. As the air was very charming, and as, in consequence of a veil of clouds obscuring the light of the sun, there was a slight shower, I indulged myself in drinking wine. In short, I enjoyed myself amazingly on this march.
12.2.4
This place is called Hatya because it was founded by a Gakkhur named Hati. The country from Margalla to Hatya is called Pothuwar. Within this tract there are but few crows to be found. Between Rohtas and Hatya is the country of the Bugyals, who are of the same stock, and connected with the Gakkhurs. On Friday I marched four kos and three-quarters to Pakka, so called because it has a sarai built of baked bricks; and Pakka in the Hindi language means "baked." There was nothing but dust on the road; and in consequence of the annoyances I experienced, I found it a very troublesome march. In this place most of the sorrel brought from Kabul got injured. On Saturday, the 8th, I marched four and a half kos to a place called Khar, which means "broken ground" in the Gakkhur language. This country is very bare of trees.
12.2.5
On Sunday I pitched my camp on the other side of Rawal Pindi, so called because it was founded by a Hindu named Rawal, and Pindi in that language means "a village." Near this place there is a stream of flowing water in a ravine, which empties itself into a tank. As the place was not destitute of charms, I remained there for a short time. I asked the Gakkhurs what the depth of the water was. They gave no specific answer, and added, “We have heard from our fathers that there are alligators in this water, which wound and kill every animal that goes into it, and on this account no one dares enter it.” I ordered a sheep to be thrown into the water, which swam round the whole tank, and came out safe. After that I ordered a swimmer to go in, and he also emerged safe. It was therefore evident that there was no foundation for what the Gakkhurs asserted. The breadth of this water is about a bow-shot. On Monday I encamped at Kharbuza. The Gakkhurs in former days erected a domed structure here, in which they used to collect tolls from travellers. As the dome is in shape like a melon, it was called Kharbuza.
12.2.6
On Tuesday, the 11th, the camp moved to Kala-pani, which means in Hindi “black water.” On this march there occurs a hill called Margalla. Mdr, in Hindi, signifies “to rob on the highway,” and galla, “a caravan,”—that is, it is a place where caravans are plundered. Up to this extends the boundary of the country of the Gakkhurs. These fellows are strange animals, always squabbling and fighting with one another. I did all I could to effect a reconciliation, but without effect. “The life of fools is held very cheap in troublous times.” On Wednesday, our encamping ground was Baba Hasan Abdal. About a kos to the east of this place there is a cascade, over which the water flows with great rapidity. On the whole road to Kabul there is no stream like this, but on the road to Kashmir there are two or three of the same kind. Raja Man Singh raised a small edifice in the middle of the basin whence the water flows. There are several fish in it, of half or a quarter of a yard long. I stayed three days at this charming spot, and drank wine with my intimate companions. I also had some sport in the way of fishing. I had never, up to this time, thrown the safra net, which in Hindi they call “Bhawar Jál” and is one of the commonest kind. To throw this net is a matter of some difficulty, but I tried it with my own hand, and succeeded in getting twelve fish. I strung pearls in their noses, and let them go again in the water.
12.2.7
I asked the inhabitants and people acquainted with history who Baba Hasan Abdal was, but no one could give me any specific information. The most noted spot there is where a spring issues from the foot of the hill. It is exceedingly pure and clear, and the following verse of Mir Khusru may well be applied to it. “The water is so transparent, that a blind man in the depth of night could see the small particles of sand at the bottom.” Khwaja Shamsu-d din Khwáfí, who was for a long time the minister of my respected father, erected a small summer-house there, and excavated a cistern into which the water of the spring flows, supplying the fields and gardens with the means of irrigation. Close to it he built a domed tomb for himself, but it was not his fate to be buried there. Hakim Abu-l Fath Gilani and his brother Hakim Humam, who were the most intimate friends of my father, and to whom he entrusted all his secrets, were buried there by his orders.
12.2.8
On the 15th I encamped at Amardi, a most extraordinary green plain, in which you cannot see a mound or hillock of any kind. At this place and in the neighbourhood there are seven or eight thousand houses of Khaturs and Dilazaks, who practise every kind of turbulence, oppression, and highway robbery. I gave orders that the sarkar of Attak, as well as this tract of country, should be made over to Zafar Khan, the son of Zain Khan Koka, and I gave him directions, that before the return of the royal camp from Kabul, he should march off the whole of the Dilazaks towards Lahore, and should seize the chiefs of the Khaturs, and keep them in prison and fetters. On Monday, the 17th, I encamped near the fort of Attak, on the banks of the river Nilab, after making one march intermediately. At this place I promoted Mahabat Khan to the rank of 2500. This fort, which is very strong, was constructed under the direction and superintendence of Khwaja Shamsu-d din Khwafi by order of my father. In these days the Nilab was very full, insomuch that the bridge consisted of eighteen boats, over which people passed with great ease and security. The Amiru-l Umara was so weak and sick, that I left him at Attak, and as the country around Kabul was not able to subsist so large a camp as accompanied me, I ordered the bakhshis to allow no one to cross the river except my own friends and household ; the main camp being ordered to wait at Attak till my return.
12.2.9
On Wednesday, the 19th, I embarked with the Prince and a few attendants on a raft, and passing over the Nilab in safety, landed on the bank of the Kama, the river which flows under Jalalabad. These rafts are composed of bamboos and grass, and placed on inflated skins. Here they call them Jál, and in rivers where there are many stones, they are safer than boats. I gave 12,000 rupees to Mir Sharif Amali and the officers who were left on duty at Lahore, to be distributed to the poor ; and orders were given to ’Abdu-r Razak M’amuri and Bihari Das, paymaster of the Ahadis, to make arrangements for supplying with every necessary the party who had been left behind with Zafar Khan. From that ground we moved, one march intervening, to my camp near Sarai Bara. On the opposite side of the river Kama there is a fort, built by Zain Khan Koka, when he was appointed to exterminate the Yusufzai Afghans. It is called Naushahra, and nearly 50,000 rupees were expended in its construction. They report that His Majesty Humayun hunted wolves in these parts, and I have heard my father say, that he had himself attended his father two or three times on these excursions. On Tuesday, the 25th, I moved to Sarai Daulatabad. Ahmad Beg Kabuli, the jagirdar of Peshawar, brought the Yusufzai and Ghorya-khail chiefs with him to pay their respects. As I was not pleased with his services, I removed him from the government of that country, and bestowed it upon Sher Khan Afghan.
12.2.10
On Wednesday, the 26th, I arrived at the garden of Sardar Khan, near Peshawar. Ghorkhatri, a famous place of worship amongst the Jogis, is in this neighbourhood, and I went to see it in the possible chance of seeing some fakir, from whose society I might derive advantage: but such a man is as rare as the Philosopher’s Stone or the ’Anka; and all that I saw was a small fraternity without any knowledge of God, the sight of whom filled my heart with nothing but regret. On Thursday Jamrud was our encamping ground. On Friday we went through the Khaibar Pass, and encamped at ’Ali Masjid. * * *