Travels in the Mogul Empire (Bernier) 5.8.7

5.8.7

In another direction, and at a distance of two or three leagues from Dehli, is the King's country house, called Chah-limar, a handsome and noble building, but not to be compared to Fontainebleau, Saint Germain, or Versailles. assure you there are no such places in the vicinity of Dehli, nor seats such as Saint Cloud, Chantilly, Meudon, Liancour, Vaux, or Ruelies, or even the smaller country houses belonging to private gentlemen, citizens, or merchants; but this will create no surprise when it is considered that no subject can hold landed property in his own right. Between Dehli and Agra, a distance of fifty or sixty leagues, there are no fine towns such as travellers pass through in France; the whole road is cheerless and uninteresting; nothing is worthy observation but Maturas, where an ancient and magnificent temple of idols is still to be seen; a few tolerably handsome caravansaries, a day's journey from each other; and a double row of trees planted by order of Jehan-Guyre, and continued for one hundred and fifty leagues, with small pyramids or turrets, erected from kosse to kosse, for the purpose of pointing out the different roads. Wells are also frequently met with, affording drink to travellers, and serving to water the young trees. What I have said of Dehli may convey a correct idea of Agra, in regard at least to its situation on the Gemna, to the fortress or royal residence, and to most of its public buildings.