Travels in India (Tavernier) 130: CHAPTER XII · Continuation of the description of the principal Pagodas of the Idolaters of India
Travels in India (Ball) 130
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CHAPTER XII · Continuation of the description of the principal Pagodas of the Idolaters of India
130.1
After the pagodas of Jagannath and Benares, the most considerable used to be that of Muttra, at about 18 coss from Agra, on the road to Delhi. It is one of the most sumptuous buildings in all India, and was the place where there was formerly the greatest concourse of pilgrims ; but at present scarcely any are to be seen there, the idolaters having gradually lost the devotion which they had for this pagoda, since the river Jumna, which used to pass close to it, has changed its course, and now flows half a league away. For when pilgrims have bathed in the river it takes them too much time to return to the pagoda, and during that time they may encounter something which renders them impure and unclean. Although this pagoda, which is very large, is in a hollow, one sees it from more than 5 or 6 coss distance, the building being very elevated and very magnificent. The stones which were used in its construction are of a red colour, and are obtained from a large quarry near Agra. They split like our slates, and some of them, which are 15 feet long and 9 or 10 feet wide, are not six fingers in thickness, that is to say, they split according to wish, and as may be required; beautiful columns are made of them also. The fortress of Agra, the walls of Jahānābād, the house of the King, the two mosques, and some houses of the great nobles are built of the same stone.
130.2
Returning to the pagoda, it is seated on a great platform of octagonal shape faced over with cut stone, around which there are two courses of animals, chiefly monkeys, carved in relief. One of the courses is only 2 feet from the ground floor, and the other 2 feet from the level of the platform. It is ascended by two staircases of fifteen or sixteen steps each, the steps being only 2 feet long, so that two persons are unable to ascend side by side. One of these staircases leads to the great gate of the pagoda, and the other behind the choir. But the pagoda occupies scarcely half the platform, the other half serving as a grand area in front. Its form is that of a cross, like those of the other pagodas, and in the middle there rises a lofty dome, with two others a little smaller which are at the sides. On the exterior of the building, from base to summit, numerous figures of animals are to be seen, such as rams, monkeys, and elephants, carved in stone, and all round are niches where there are different monsters. From the foot of each of the three domes up to the summits, at intervals, there are windows from 5 to 6 feet high, and at each a kind of balcony where four persons can sit. Each balcony is covered by a small canopy, and some are sustained by four columns, others by eight, but then they are in pairs and in contact with one another. Around these domes there are also niches full of figures which represent demons, one having four arms, another four legs;
130.3
some of them have the heads of men on the bodies of beasts, with horns and long tails which twine round their legs. There are, finally, numerous images of monkeys, and it is a terrible thing to have before the eyes so many ugly representations. The pagoda has but one door, which is very high, and on both sides there are many columns and images of men and monsters. The choir is enclosed by a barricade made of stone columns of 5 to 6 inches in diameter, and no one may enter these except the principal Brahmins, who have access by a small secret door which I could not see. When at this pagoda I asked some Brahmins who were there if I might see the great Ram Ram, that is to say the great idol. They replied that if I gave them something they would go to ask leave of their Superior; this they did as soon as I had placed two rupees in their hands. I had not waited half an hour till the Brahmins opened a door which is inside the middle of the barricade (for on the outside there is none, the barricade itself being closed). I saw across it, at about 15 or 16 feet from the door, as it were a square altar covered with an old brocade of gold and silver, and on it the great idol which they call Ram Ram. Only the head, which is of black marble, can be seen, and he has for eyes what appear to be two rubies. All the body from the neck to the feet is covered by a robe of red velvet with some embroidery, and the arms cannot be seen.
130.4
There are two other idols beside him of 2 feet in height or thereabouts ; they are arranged in the same manner, save that they have the faces white, and they are called Becciior. I also saw in this pagoda a machine of 15 to 16 feet square and about 12 to 15 feet high, covered with painted calicoes which represent all kinds of demons. This machine was supported on four small wheels, and I was told that it was the portable altar, whereon their great god is placed on the solemn days when he goes to visit the other gods, and is taken to the river by the people on the occasion of their principal festival. The fourth pagoda is that of Tirupati, in the province of Carnatic, towards the Coromandel coast and Cape Comorin. I went to see it when going from Masulipatam to Gandikot to join the Nawáb Mir Jumla. It is a large pagoda, surrounded by numerous small ones, and by many dwellings for the Brahmins ; this makes it appear like a town. It has around it many tanks, and the superstition is so great that a passer-by dare not take water from them unless a Brahmin give it to him.