Travels in India (Tavernier) 130.1

130.1

After the pagodas of Jagannath and Benares, the most considerable used to be that of Muttra, at about 18 coss from Agra, on the road to Delhi. It is one of the most sumptuous buildings in all India, and was the place where there was formerly the greatest concourse of pilgrims ; but at present scarcely any are to be seen there, the idolaters having gradually lost the devotion which they had for this pagoda, since the river Jumna, which used to pass close to it, has changed its course, and now flows half a league away. For when pilgrims have bathed in the river it takes them too much time to return to the pagoda, and during that time they may encounter something which renders them impure and unclean. Although this pagoda, which is very large, is in a hollow, one sees it from more than 5 or 6 coss distance, the building being very elevated and very magnificent. The stones which were used in its construction are of a red colour, and are obtained from a large quarry near Agra. They split like our slates, and some of them, which are 15 feet long and 9 or 10 feet wide, are not six fingers in thickness, that is to say, they split according to wish, and as may be required; beautiful columns are made of them also. The fortress of Agra, the walls of Jahānābād, the house of the King, the two mosques, and some houses of the great nobles are built of the same stone.