Travels in India (Tavernier) 31.3

31.3

The Jesuit Fathers are known at Goa by the name of Paulists, on account of their grand church dedicated to St. Paul. They do not wear hats nor three-cornered caps as in Europe, but a kind of cap which resembles, in form, a hat from which the brim has been removed, and it is somewhat like the caps of the slaves of the Grand Seigneur, which I have described in my account of the Seraglio. They have five houses in Goa, which are, the College of St. Paul, the Seminary, the Monks’ House, the Noviciate, and the Bon Jesus. The paintings of the ceiling of this last church are admirable. In the year 1663 the greater part of the College was burnt by an accident which happened in the night, and it cost them near 60,000 écus to rebuild it.
The hospital at Goa was formerly renowned throughout India; and, as it possessed a considerable income, sick persons were very well attended to. This was still the case when I first went to Goa ; but, since this hospital has changed its managers, patients are badly treated, and many Europeans who enter it do not leave it except to go to the tomb. It is but a short time since the secret of treating by frequent bleedings has been discovered ; and it is practiced according to need up to thirty or forty times, as long as bad blood comes, as was done to myself on one occasion when at Surat ; and as soon as the bad blood is removed, which is like an aposthume, the sick person is out of danger. Butter and meat are to him as poison, and if he eats of them he puts his life in danger. Formerly some small ragouts were made for the convalescent, but they must nowadays content themselves with beef-tea and a basin of rice. Generally all the poor people who begin to recover their health cry out from thirst, and beg for a little water to drink ; but those who wait upon them, who are at present blacks or Mestifs — avaricious persons, and without mercy — do not give a drop without receiving something, that is to say, unless some money is placed in their hands, and to give colour to this wickedness they give it in secret, saying that the physician forbids it. Sweets and confectionery are not wanting, but this does not contribute much to the establishment of health, which in a hot country rather requires nourishing food.
I forgot to make a remark upon the frequent bleedings in reference to Europeans — namely, that in order to recover their colour and get themselves into perfect health, it is prescribed for them to drink for twelve days three glasses of . . . — one in the morning, one at midday, and one in the evening ; but, as this drink cannot but be very disagreeable, the convalescent swallows as little of it as possible, however much he may desire to recover his health. This remedy has been learnt from the idolaters of the country, and whether the convalescent makes use of it or not, he is not allowed to leave the hospital till the twelve days have expired during which he is expected to take this drink.