Ancient Indian Costume c8.s2: Costume : Men
Ancient Indian Costume c8.s2
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Costume : Men
c8.s2.1
In this period there was a marked preference for the stitched garment, as compared to any previous age, and clearly defined garments for north India and the Deccan began to emerge, which later crystallized into the garment preference we see in India today. With the Kushans, the stitched garment had gained in status and it was now linked to royalty, for the Kushan kings and their nobles had ruled a large part of India and Central Asia for more than a 100 years. The Gupta kings realized the value of adopting a dress that had traditionally become identified with royalty. They are shown on Gupta coins in full Kushan dress, that is, the coat, trousers and boots. They continued, however, to wear the indigenous *antariya, uttariya* and *kayabandh* for informal occasions.
c8.s2.2
Many forms of cut-and-sewn garments became fashionable, especially at court. These garments were not totally foreign to the Indians. Changes had been occurring gradually and the indigenous *kancuka*, associated with guardians and attendants of the harem in earlier times, probably inspired the brocaded tunic with long or short sleeves worn by ministers, guards, door-keepers, and court attendants. Just as often is seen a simpler version, the white calf-length tunic which the chamberlain wore, a *chaddar* adding dignity to his attire. The lower garment was usually the *antariya* and with it was sometimes worn the *kancuka* which could be tucked in like a shirt. The *kayabandh* was used to hold the garment in place. The *ushnisa* (turban) was slowly becoming obsolete, and was now associated mainly with certain dignitaries, ministers and other officials.
c8.s2.3
Foreigners at court were a common sight as trade and commercial intercourse between India and Persia in this period was at its height. Persia's influence on Indian art is most clearly seen in the rich floating ribbon decoration which was in fashion at the Persian court of Khusrau II (a.d. 600).
c8.s2.4
In northern India where climatic conditions were more suitable, there was greater emphasis on the stitched garments, but in the south, as is apparent even today, the indigenous *antariya, uttariya* and *kayabandh* held their own. Strangely enough, although royalty on the Gupta coins is shown wearing the sewn garments of the Kushan kings, in the Ajanta paintings the king and other members of the nobility are still seen in their fine silk or muslin *antariyas*.
c8.s2.5
The king's costume was most often of striped blue closely woven silk with a floating *uttariya*. Both these garments invariably had woven borders. Instead of the *kayabandh* a plain cord or belt became more popular, wound once or twice around and then buckled or knotted in a variety of ways to secure the *antariya*. Sometimes the *uttariya* itself was twisted thickly and worn aslant the waist with a large knot at the left hip on which the hand could rest, or it was casually thrown over the left shoulder. It was the elaborate *mukuta* (crown) and exquisite jewellery that really set apart kings and high dignitaries from other members of the royal entourage. Some scholars believe that these elaborate *mukuta* were never actually used, but were merely signs of divinity or royalty.