Ancient Indian Costume c8.s2.2

c8.s2.2

Many forms of cut-and-sewn garments became fashionable, especially at court. These garments were not totally foreign to the Indians. Changes had been occurring gradually and the indigenous *kancuka*, associated with guardians and attendants of the harem in earlier times, probably inspired the brocaded tunic with long or short sleeves worn by ministers, guards, door-keepers, and court attendants. Just as often is seen a simpler version, the white calf-length tunic which the chamberlain wore, a *chaddar* adding dignity to his attire. The lower garment was usually the *antariya* and with it was sometimes worn the *kancuka* which could be tucked in like a shirt. The *kayabandh* was used to hold the garment in place. The *ushnisa* (turban) was slowly becoming obsolete, and was now associated mainly with certain dignitaries, ministers and other officials.