Jain Miniature Paintings from Western India c11.s2: Costume: Period I, A.D. 1100—1300

Jain Miniature Paintings from Western India c11.s2

Language: English

Costume: Period I, A.D. 1100—1300

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Interesting details of the Gujarātī costumes and ornaments are preserved in Western Indian miniatures, which confirm the description of the costume of Gujarāt given by Ibn Haukal (11th century), Chao-Ju-Kua (12th century), and Duarte Barbosa (stayed in India from 1500—1516 A.D.). Ibn Haukal says⁵⁷ that the people of the Gulf of Cambay and Malabar coast wore *izār* and *mizār* after the fashion of the Muhamadans settled there. This costume acted as a guard against the extreme heat, and for that very reason it was adopted by the people of Multān. The merchants wore the respective costume of their countries. Chao-Ju-Kua⁵⁸ describes the costumes and ornaments of the 12th century Gujarātīs, both men and women as follows : “ Both men and women have double rings hanging down their ears ; they wear tight clothes, and are wrapped in plain cotton cloth ; they wear on their hair white hoods, and on their feet shoes of scarlet leather.” From the above descriptions of the costumes of the Gujarātīs in the 11th and 12th centuries, it is clear that the men, perhaps after the fashion of the Muhammadans, wore shorts and jackets, as the light clothes of Chao-Ju-Kua and the *izār* and *mizār* of Ibn Haukal would signify. Then, according to Chao-Ju-Kua, the women wore *sārīs*. Both men and women also covered their heads with scarves and perhaps wore shoes.

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⁵⁷ M. Renaud, Mémoire geographique historique et scientifique sur l'Inde, p. 283 Paris, 1849.

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⁵⁸ J. R. A. S., 1896, p. 481.

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Fig. 199

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Now reverting to Western Indian miniatures from roughly 1100 to 1300 A.D. we find that the observations of Ibn Haukal and Chao-Ju-Kua about the costume of the Gujarātīs are true to a very great extent. The following costumes types may be distinguished in this period.

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The typical costumes of the princes, bankers and merchants, as represented in the painted wooden book-covers from the Jaisalmer Jñāna Bhaṇḍār⁵⁹, are of two types. In the Jain temple and in the presence of Śrī Jinadatta Sūri, the men wear tight fitting shorts made of elaborately embroidered or printed materials; zig-zags, cheques and small flowers being the chief patterns (Fig. 242). The shorts are tightly secured with the *kamarbands* to which are attached *paṭkās*. On the shoulders may be seen *dupaṭṭas* with their both ends dangling. In one case at least, the *dupaṭṭa* is worn transversely across the chest. The upper parts of their bodies is devoid of any clothing, and this may be due to their presence in a temple whose sanctity demands uncovering of the body.

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⁵⁹ *Bhāratīya Vidyā* (Hindi-Guj.), III, Pls. a—i.

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In the scene representing Kumuda-chandra and Devasūri the true costume of the people is shown. Their shorts, *kamarbands* and *paṭkās* are of the same type, but there is an addition of an open, half-sleeved, tight jacket reaching to the waist (Fig. 243). These jackets were made of plain or tie-dyed materials. The musicians and the gate-keeper wear the same type of costume. That this type of costume was worn by the princes or at least rich merchants is evident from the costume of Kumārapāla depicted in a palm-leaf miniature dated 1237 A.D.⁶⁰ Here the king is shown wearing an ultra-marine open jacket and shorts with the pattern in yellow indicating gold.

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⁶⁰ *Jaina-chitra Kalpadruma*, Fig. 13.

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For this open jacket the *Mānasollāsa* seems to have used the word *aṅgikā* while describing the costume of a king.⁶¹ For shorts *kaipika*? (amended *kośika*) has been used. Elsewhere in the *Mānasollāsa*⁶², the shorts are called *dvipaḍī*, which was worn by both men and women while hunting.

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⁶¹ *Mānasollāsa*, II, p. 89, s. 32.

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It would be interesting to trace the origin of the jacket. It does not seem to be of Indian origin, as it does not occur in Ajaṇṭā paintings. Perhaps, it is of Central Asiatic or Persian origin brought over to Gujarāt by the merchants from those countries, as observed by Ibn Haukal.

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In the late 12th century painted wooden book-cover, representing a fight between Bharata and Bāhubali, the typical military costume of the period is indicated. It consisted of a half sleeved indigo coloured tunic, tight fitting shorts made of striped material, *kamarband* and top-boots. The head seems to have been covered with a scarf (Fig. 244).

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The Śvetāmbara Jain monks wear a white *dhotī* and a *chādar* worn transversely across the chest (Fig. 245).

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In the illustrated palm-leaf manuscript, dated 1278 A.D., from Pāṭan, the Śvetāmbara nuns are shown wearing what appears like a *sārī*, loose tunic and a *chādar* (Fig. 246). All parts of their bodies are fully covered.

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The following varieties in the costume of the womenfolk may be distinguished:—

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In the illustrated book-cover representing Jinadatta Sūri in his audience hall, the two women represented wear *sārīs* and tight *chādars* covering their coiffure and falling at their back (Fig. 247). It is remarkable that no bodice covers their breasts. This may be due to their deference to the temple custom.

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The typical costume of the women of Gujarāt in the 12th century is illustrated in the figures of the Vidyādevīs in a palm-leaf manuscript from Chhāṇi, near Baroda, dated 1161 A.D.⁶³ Their dress consists of richly patterned *sārīs* reaching the ankles, *paṭkās* matching the *sārīs*, tight half-sleeved *cholīs* covering the entire chest and the stomach and the light scarves worn on the shoulders (Fig. 248). That the *cholīs* did not always cover the entire chest is evident from the illustrated book-cover depicting the battle between Bharata and Bāhubali. Here the women are shown wearing striped *sārīs* and *paṭkās*, and their breasts are covered with half-sleeved *cholīs*, made of striped or flowered materials which leave the stomach exposed (Fig. 249).

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⁶³ *Jaina-chitra Kalpadruma*, Figs. 16–36.

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The preference for bodice by the Gujarātī women is referred to in the contemporary Sanskrit literature. Thus, the *Mānasollāsa*⁶⁴ mentions that the Gujarātī women wore full sleeved bodice (*āpāṇikṛta-kañchuka*). In the commentary of the *Kāvya-Prakāśa* (5th Ullāsa), the covered breasts of Gujarātī women are mentioned (*no gurjāristanaivātitarām nigūdhah*).

Linked texts (2)

Kāvyaprakāśa — Mammaṭa & Alaṭa, Sanskrit
Mānasollāsa (Abhilaṣitārthacintāmaṇi) — Someśvara III, Sanskrit