Jain Miniature Paintings from Western India c11.s3.21

c11.s3.21

We have already observed that Gujarāt in the beginning of the 14th century came under the Muslim rule. We know from the accounts of the contemporary travellers and historians the costumes of the Muslim kings, courtiers and soldiers, but it is only in Western Indian paintings that we find them visualised. We find that the costume was Turkish with strong Mongol influence. Al Qalqshandī, in his *Subh ul A'sha*⁷⁴, devotes a few chapters to India, one of which deals with the costume of the people. "The dress of the soldiers including Sultāns, Khāns, Maliks and the other officers," observes al Qalqshandī, "are given on the authority of Sheikh Mubarak ul Anbati as, 'Tartaric gowns (*Tatariyat*), *Jakalwat* and Islamic *qabas* of Khwarizm buckled in the middle of the body and short turbans which do not exceed five or six forearms (*dīra*). Their dress is of Bayd and Jūkh '."⁷⁵