Mediaeval Sinhalese Art c26.22

c26.22

So much for the weft thread. That required for the warp is wound off the bamboo and string reel directly, to form a skein. This skein is laid (process called dig-gahanavā) on a temporary frame of sticks, and is the length of the warp required. The weaver walks up and down along this framework, disposing the thread upon it with the aid of a little forked stick (paḍu kule). When completed, the skeins are lifted off, and rods passed through the ends, the whole laid horizontally a couple of feet above the ground, and kept on the stretch by strings attaching the rods to posts at each end. Strung bows (heṭ-li) are passed through the warp, to prevent tangling and to preserve the lease or plane in which it lies. The warp is next well sized on both sides with a starchy decoction (process called näl velanavā), after which the threads are well brushed, and then carefully separated and arranged (process called palal lanavā). The number of threads, of course, depends upon the width of cloth required. Ordinarily, 120 threads are reckoned to the span. When finally dry, the warp is lifted up and re-adjusted on the loom itself, the cloth beam of which has a groove into which is laid the rod carrying the warp, which is held tightly when a turn is given to the beam. The most troublesome part of the process is passing the threads through the heddles and reed, for which purpose they have to be broken one by one, and rejoined after being threaded through the loops and teeth. The length of the warp is often made sufficient for two cloths in order to reduce this labour.