The Legacy of Muslim Rule in India c5.s8.5

c5.s8.5

In matters of clothing also, India was better placed than many other countries in the middle ages. The textile industry of India was world-famous. The Sultan, the nobles and all the rich dressed exceedingly well.¹⁰⁶ The costly royal robes, the gilded and studded swords and daggers, the parasols (*chhatra*) of various colours were all typically Indian paraphernalia of royal pomp and splendour. The use of rings, necklaces, ear-rings and other ornaments by men was also due to Indian wealth and opulence. The dress of the Sultan and the elite consisted of kulah or head-dress, a tunic worked in brocade and long drawers. The habit of dyeing the beard was common. It added in the old a zest for life as did the slanting of cap in the young. The Hindu aristocracy dressed like the Muslim aristocracy,¹⁰⁷ except that in place of *kulah* they used a turban, and in place of long drawers they wore *dhoti* trimmed with gold lace. The Muslims dressed heavily but the Hindus were scantily dressed. They cannot wear more clothing on account of the great heat, says Nicolo Conti.¹⁰⁸ The orthodox Muslims wore clothes made of simple material like linen. The dress worn by scholars at the Firoz Shahi Madrasa consisted of the Syrian *jubbah* and the Egyptian *dastar*.¹⁰⁹ But there was no special uniform for any one, not even for soldiers. In the villages the poor put on only a loin-cloth (*langota*) which Babur takes pains to describe in detail.¹¹⁰