The Position of Women in Hindu Civilisation, from Prehistoric Times to the Present Day c15.s2.11

c15.s2.11

Sculptures, paintings and the *Nāṭyaśāstra* of Bharata throw a flood of light on the nature and number of different ornaments used by our women in the early centuries of the Christian era. It is not at all possible to describe them in detail in words. One can get an adequate idea of them only from their representations in sculptures and paintings. More than half a dozen different ornaments, partly made of gold and partly of pearls, and variously described as *śikhāpāśa*, *sikhājāla*, *muktājāla*, etc., were used to adorn the head and the forehead. One can get an adequate idea of their nature and gracefulness only by studying them in Ajanta paintings. The designs of earrings were very graceful. The variety in the nature of necklaces of gold and pearls is indeed striking. The *Nāṭyaśāstra* refers to four types of zones (XXIII, 27); but sculptures prove beyond any doubt that the old sage Bharata was not up-to-date in his knowledge on the point. A gauzy pearl ornament was used over the breasts. Bharata refers to an ornament to be worn over thighs called *pādapatra* (XXIII, 141); it seems to have been made of pearls, as may be gathered from a painting of Māyādevī in Cave No. 2 at Ajanta¹. This ornament seems to have now gone out of fashion. Shoulders were adorned with *keyūras*, of which there were several types. Nor was the portion just above the elbow neglected. The number of bangles worn on the hand was very large; in Bengal they were often joined together so as to form a composite ornament reaching almost to the elbow². The fashion at Ajanta, however, prescribed only a few bangles for the hand. They were often set with pearls or diamonds. The number of bangles worn on the feet was a large one; some of them used to produce a gingling sound, when their wearers were in motion.