Life and Conditions of the People of Hindustan (1200–1550 A.D.) c7.s2.t1.95

c7.s2.t1.95

There is very little to describe about woman's garments. There were usually only two varieties. One consisted of a long *chadar* or fine sheet of muslin (not unlike the modern *sari*) and a bodice or *chola* with short sleeves, going down the back to the waist, with an additional *Angiya* or brassiere of a dark colour for grown up maidens or married women. This dress had the advantage of leaving their arms free and their heads just slightly covered by the hem of the *Sari*.⁷ The other variety, which was more popular in the Doab, consisted of a *lahanga* or a long and very loose skirt, a *chola* and an *angiya* as in the former case with a *rupatia* or a long scarf which was sometimes thrown over to cover the head.¹ Ladies of Gujarat wore leather shoes with gold trimmings.² Nothing is known about other provinces, but the probability is that more women wore shoes than men. Muslim ladies of the upper classes usually wore loose drawers, a shirt and a long scarf, together with the usual veil or shroud. These features of female dress are still more or less prevalent in Hindustan. It may be added that blue was the colour of mourning and except under specified cases, women avoided wearing dresses of that colour for every day use.³ In other respects women were fond of bright colours and of prints or drawings on the cloth.⁴