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Life in Ancient India as Depicted in the Jain Canons, with Commentaries: An Administrative, Economic, Social and Geographical Survey c9.s19: Dress

Life in Ancient India as Depicted in the Jain Canons, with Commentaries: An Administrative, Economic, Social and Geographical Survey c9.s19

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English

Dress

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After food the most immediate necessity of life is clothing. Cotton clothes were commonly worn. People had a common taste for good clothing, perfumes, garlands and ornaments (*vatthagandhamallālaṅkāra*).⁶⁰ Clothes are mentioned among the requisites of a gentleman.⁶¹ Four kinds of garments are mentioned : the garments worn daily, after bath, at the festivals and fairs, and while visiting king or nobles, etc.⁶²

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⁶⁰ Cf *Kalpa Sū* 4 82.

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⁶¹ *Brh. Bhā.* 1-2557.

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⁶² *Ibid* Pt. 644.

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People were fond of luxuries and varieties of luxurious cloth are mentioned. The oldest list of textiles is given in the *Ācārāṅga*.⁶³ Cloth made from wool (*jaṅgiya* or *jaṅghika*), *bhaṅga*⁶⁴ (*bhaṅgiya*), hemp (*sāṇya*), palm leaves⁶⁵ (*pottaga*), linen⁶⁶ (*khomiya*) and *tūla* (*tūlakada*). It is stated that a monk or a nun may beg for above mentioned cloths.⁶⁷

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⁶³ II. 5 1. 364, 368, , also cf *Milindapañha*, p 267.

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⁶⁴ *Bhāṅgeya* is also mentioned in the *Vinayavastu* of the Mūlasarvāstivāda, p 92. It is a kind of cloth made from the fibre of *bhāg* tree still produced in the Kumon district of U P and is known as *bhāgelā*, See Dr Motichand's article in the *Bhāratī Vidyā*, Vol I, Pt , 1, p 41

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⁶⁵ According to the commentary on the *Brhatkalpa Bhāṣya*, (2 3661), *pottaga* is cotton

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⁶⁶ According to the commentator *khomiya* is cotton. It was very common and was used for making *cīvara* of the Buddhist Bhikkus, (*Mahāvagga*, VIII 3 1), also see Girija Prasanna Majumdar's article on Dress in *Indian culture* Vol. I, 1-4, p 196 f

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⁶⁷ The *Brh Kalpa Sū* (2 24) and the *Thā* (5 446) mention *tiridapaṭṭa* in place of *tūlakada* which was made from the bark of the *tirida* tree Also see *Vinayavastu* of the Mūlasarvāstivāda, p. 94 According to Monier Williams, however, *tirida* (*Simplocos Racemosa*) is a kind of head dress

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The following kinds of cloth were considered as very expensive and a monk or a nun was forbidden to use them; cloth made from skin,⁶⁸ (*āṇaga*, com *ajina*), fine cloth (*sahina*, com.*sūksma*), fine and beautiful cloth (*sahina-kallāṇa*), cloth made from goat's hair (*āya*)⁶⁹, blue cotton (*kāya*),⁷⁰ linen (*khomiya*), from the fibres of the *dugulla* plant (*dugulla*),⁷¹ *patta* fibres (patta),⁷² malaya fibres (malaya), bark-fibres⁷³ (panunna or pattunna in the Nisi. cū.), amsuya cloth (amsuya), china silk (cināmsuya), coloured cloth⁷⁴ (desarāga), spotless cloth⁷⁵ (amila), cloth making rustling noise⁷⁶ (gajjaphala), cloth as clear as crystal (phaliya),⁷⁷ “fluffy blanket”⁷⁸ (koya-va), blanket (kambalaga) and mantles (pāvāra)⁷⁹; skin cloth such as made from udra⁸⁰ (udda), from pesa fur⁸¹ (pesa), embroidered with pesa fur (pesala), made from the skin of black deer (kanhamigāina), blue deer (nīla), yellow deer (gora); cloth made from other materials, such as golden cloth (kanaka), cloth interwoven with golden tissues⁸³ (kanagakānta), cloth with borders woven with golden tissues⁸³ (kanagakānta), embroidered with golden thread⁸⁴ (kanagakhaciya), tinsel-printing⁸⁵ (kanagaphusiya),⁸⁶ cloth made from tiger’s skin (vaggha), panther’s skin (vivaggha), printed with one pattern such as leaf etc.⁸⁷ (ābharana), printed with many patterns such as leaf, candralekhā, svastika, ghantikā and mauktika etc.⁸⁸ (ābharana-vicitta).⁸⁹

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⁶⁸ Skin as material for clothing is mentioned in the *Mahāvagga* (V. 10, 6, 8) In those days the skins of lion, tiger, leopard, cow and deer were used for clothing as well as for bedsheet etc.

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⁶⁹ According to the *Nisī cū* (7, p 467), the *āya* cloths were made from the moss tha clung to the goats' hoofs in the country of Tosali, but this seems to be unintelligible

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⁷⁰ According to the *Nisī cū* (*ibid*), the *kāya* cloths were made from *kākajaṅghā* (*Abrus Precatorious*) in the country of Kāka, which does not seem to be intelligible.

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⁷¹ *Nisī. cū* (*ibid*); but according to Śīlāṅka, *dukūla* cloths were made from the cotton rpoduced in Gauda (Bengal).

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⁷² According to the Anu Sū. 37, the kiṭaja cloth is of five varieties, viz paṭṭa, malaya amsuga, cināmsuya and himirāga (suvanna in the Brh Kalpa Bhā 2 3662) The commentator explains the production of paṭṭa cloth from the insects that gathered round the flesh stored for the purpose in the jungle, the malaya cloth was produced in Malaya country, amsuya was produced in the country outside China, and cināmsuya in China itself According to the commentator of the Brhatkalpa Bhāsya (2 3662) amsuka is silk manufactured of soft yarn, cināmsuka is either cocoon silk or chinese silk, and suvanna is golden coloured thread produced by a certain variety of silk worms Silk is referred to in the Mahābhārata as kiṭaja which was the product of Cina and Vāhlika According to the Mc' Crindle, raw silk was from the interior of Asia and manufactured at Kos If this is true, Kauseya garment refers to the town of Kos and not to the cocoons (Dr Moticand, Bhāratī Vidyā, 1 1 p 46 f)

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⁷³ According to Monier Williams (Sanskrit Dictionary), it is Calosanthes Indica Patrorna is also mentioned in the Mahābhārata (II 78 54)

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⁷⁴ Nisi cū (ibid)

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⁷⁵ ibid, but according to Śilānka, amila is camel

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⁷⁶ Nisi cū ibid

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⁷⁷ ibid

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⁷⁸ It was a luxurious woolen article mentioned in the Mahāagga (VIII.1 36) According to the commentator of the Anu Sū (37), koyava was made from the hair of a mouse (undura), or a goat (chāgala, Bṛh Bhā Vr 2 3662), koyava is included among the five kinds hairy cloth mentioned in the Jain texts, others being unna (made from the sheep wool), uṭṭiya (from the camel wool), muyaloma (from deer), and kiṭṭa (mixed with the hair of sheep etc), Anu op cit; Brh. Bhā, op, cit

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⁷⁹ Kambala or prāvāra are mentioned in the Mahābhārata (II 71.48)

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⁸⁰ in the Tattv

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⁸¹ In the Vedic period the pesa was gold---- designs The making of such a garment was a regular occupation of women, as is indicated by the word pesakārī (Vedic Index II, p 22)

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⁸³ Kanagena jassa paṭṭā katā, Nisi cū (ibid)

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⁸⁴ antā jassa kanagena katā (ibid)

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⁸⁵ Kanagasuttena phulliyā jassa pādiyā (ibid).

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⁸⁶ The material used in wax-cloth ornamentation is an oleaginous substance (roghan) that is thickened with lime and coloured with pigments before being applied In tinsel-printing an adhesive substance is printed over the texture and subsequently dusted with colouring matter In tinsel-printing the designs are printed with blocks At first glue, gum, lac or other adhesive substance is first printed over the fabric and gold leaf, silver leaf, tin foil, mercury amalgam or other colour materials, Indian Art at Delhi 1903, pp 267 f, by Sir George Watt,

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⁸⁷ Kanagena jassa phullitāu duṇṇāu, jahā kaddamena uddeddyati (Nisi. cū. ibid).

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⁸⁸ Paṭṭakacandalekhasvastikaghantikāmottikāmadhīm manditā (ibid).

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⁸⁹ Acā. ibid.; Nisi. cū. ibid.

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The *Bhagavatī* along with *kappāsīya*, *patta* and *dugulla* mentions the *vaḍaga* cloth, which is explained as *tasar* by the commentator.⁹⁰ The *Anuyogadvāra Sūtra*, which is undoubtedly a later work, mentions the following five varieties of cloth: cloth made from eggs⁹¹ (*aṇḍaga*), cotton stalks (*boṇḍaya*), insects (*kīḍaya*), hair (*vālaya*) and bark (*vāgaya*).

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⁹⁰ 11. 11

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⁹¹ According to the commentary (Su 37), it was made from the egg of a swan (*haṃsa*), which is unintelligible Perhaps it is same as '*aṇḍi*' cloth in Hindi

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*Dūsa* or *dūsya* was another variety of cloth. *Devadūsa* (divine *dūsa*) is mentioned. It is stated that Mahāvīra joined the ascetic order wearing it on his left shoulder. Later on, this piece of cloth was estimated costing hundred thousand pieces of money (*sayasahassamollam*).⁹² With the *vijayadūsa* is mentioned another variety of cloth which was as white as the conch-shell, *kunda* flower, spray of water and foam of the ocean.⁹³ The *Brhatkalpa Bhāṣya* mentions five kinds of *dūsya* : *koyava*, *pāvāraga*,⁹⁴ clean white cloth like the row of teeth (*dādhūlī*), sacks, elephant-housing, etc. which are woven with coarse yarn (*pūri*) and cloth woven with double yarn (*virali*).⁹⁵ The commentary on the *Thāṇāṅga* gives *palhavi* or *pallavi* (a cloth thrown on elephant’s back) and *navayaa* (woollen sheet) in place of the last two mentioned articles.⁹⁶ Another list of the five *dūsyas* is : pillow (*upadhāna*, also known as *bibboyaṇa*), mattress stuffed with cotton (*tūlī*),⁹⁷ mattress of the size of a human being (*āliṅganī* or *āliṅgaṇa*), cushions for cheek (*gaṇḍovahāna*) and round cushions (*masūraka*)⁹⁸.

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⁹² *Ācā cū*, p 268 Cf *Sūyagaḍa* *dūsa* in the *Mahāvagga* (VIII 1 29) , it was a cloth piece from Sivi costing hundred thousands pieces of money. *Dussayugam* is mentioned in the *Majjhima* I p 215.

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⁹³ *Rāya*. 43, p 100

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⁹⁴ See Supra Also cf the explanation given by the commentator.

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⁹⁵ 3 3823 f.

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⁹⁶ 4 310, p. 222.

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⁹⁷ *Tūlikā* (quilts stuffed with cotton wool) is also mentioned in the *Dīgha*, 1, p. 7.

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⁹⁸ *Brh Bhā*, op. cit

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We came across various other terms such as couch, bedsheet and cushions. The couch (*sayaṇijja*) of Tisalā was furnished with the mattress of a man’s length (*sāliṅganavattu*), with pillows (*bibboana*) on both sides, it was raised on both sides and hollow in the middle, was extremely soft, was covered with linen and *dukūla* cloth, it contained a well-worked bedsheet (*ayattāṇa*), and covered with a beautiful red cloth (*rattaṃsuya*) soft to touch like fur, cotton fibres and butter.⁹⁹

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⁹⁹ *Kalpa* 3. 32 ; *Nāvā*. 1. p. 4.

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Soft towels dyed with fragrant saffron were used to rub the body after bath¹⁰⁰ Then the *Kalpa sūtra* refers to a curtain (*javaṇiyā*) adorned with different jewels and precious stones, manufactured in a famous town (*varapaṭṭanuggaya*),¹⁰¹ its soft cloth was covered with hundreds of patterns and decorated with pictures of wolves, bulls, horses, men, dolphins, birds, snakes, *kinnaras*, deer, *sarabhas*, yaks, elephants, shrubs and plants.¹⁰²

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¹⁰⁰ *Oū Sū* 31, p. 122.

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¹⁰¹ Brought from a noble workshop (*Anta*. trans. by Barnett, p. 22).

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¹⁰² 4.63.

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The celacilimili is described another curtain for the use of the Jain monks¹⁰³. It is divided into four classes : made from yarn (suttamai), made from strings (rajjumai), made from bark-strips (vāgamai), made from sticks (daṇḍamai) and made from bamboo-sticks (kaḍagamai). These curtains were five hands in length and three in width.¹⁰⁴

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¹⁰³ Brh sū 1 18, cf cilumikā in the Cullavagga, VI 2 6.

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¹⁰⁴ Brh Bhā 1. 2374 f, also 3. 4804 4811, 4815, 4817.

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Then bhoyaḍā or an underwear was worn in Mahārāṣṭra by girls from their childhood. They continued wearing it till they married and conceived. Then the relations were invited and bhoyaḍā was removed following a ceremony. Bhoyaḍā was known as kaccha in the country of Lāṭa¹⁰⁵

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¹⁰⁵ Nisi cū Pi ,p 46.

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About the dress we hear of new (ahaya) and costly (sumahaggaha) clothes.¹⁰⁶ We read that Mahāvīra was clad in a pair of robes (paṭṭa-juyala) so light that the smallest breath would carry them away, they were manufactured in a famous city, praised by clever artists, soft as the fume of horses, embroidered with golden thread by skilful artists and ornamented with designs of flamingoes (haṃsalakkhaṇa).¹⁰⁷

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¹⁰⁶ Ovā Sū 31, p 122

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¹⁰⁷ Ācā II, 2 15, p 390. Also Rāmāyaṇa I. 73 31.

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People wore two pieces of cloth, the upper garment and the lower garment. The former (uttarīya) is described as beautiful with swinging pearl pendants ; it was one piece of cloth (egasāḷiya).¹⁰⁸ Sewing was known. The needle and thread (suisuttaga)¹⁰⁹ are mentioned. The monks were allowed to sew the pieces of cloth.¹¹⁰

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¹⁰⁸ Ovā. p 45

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¹⁰⁹ Sūya 4 2.12

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¹¹⁰ Ācā II 5 1 304

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