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Life in Ancient India as Depicted in the Jain Canons, with Commentaries: An Administrative, Economic, Social and Geographical Survey c9.t10: Textiles—Spinning and Weaving

Life in Ancient India as Depicted in the Jain Canons, with Commentaries: An Administrative, Economic, Social and Geographical Survey c9.t10

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Textiles—Spinning and Weaving

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Now we come to the various manufacturing industries prevalent in those days. Next to agriculture, spinning and weaving was the most important industry. The cloth makers (*nantikka : kolia*) are described as one of the five important craftsmen, others being the potters, the carpenters, the black-smiths and the barbers.¹¹⁷ Mention is made of dealers in dussa (*dosiya*), yarn (*sottiya*) and cotton (*kappāsiya*). Then there were tailors (*tunnāga*), weavers (*tantuvāya*) and makers of silken cloth (*pattakūla*).¹¹⁸ The *sivaga* (tailors) and *chimpāya* (calico printers, *chimpi* in Hindi) were included among important craftsmen.¹¹⁹

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¹¹⁷ Ava, cū., p. 156, Ava. Ti, (Hari.), 947, p. 426a

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¹¹⁸ Panna. 1. 37.

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¹¹⁹ Jambu. Ti, 3, p 193a.

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Carding is mentioned. The seduga cotton after the seeds were removed were carded (*pinjiya*) and from this slivers (*pelu*) were prepared.¹²⁰ Spinning of cotton¹²¹ and that of the bark of *dugulla* tice¹²² and grass¹²³ (*vaccaka, muñjam*) was also known.

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¹²⁰ Brh. Bhā., 1. 2996.

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¹²¹ Sūya Ti II., 6. p 388.

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¹²² Nisī cū, 7, p. 467

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¹²³ Brh Bhā., 2 3675.

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Weaving sheds (*tantuvāyasālā*) are mentioned; one such shed was situated outside the suburb of Nālandā.¹²⁴ Various kinds of cloths were known and regular trade was carried on in cloths.

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¹²⁴ Ava. cū., p 282.

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Then there was the washing and dyeing industry. Washermen were included among eighteen corporations. Soda (*sajjyākhāra*) is mentioned as washing material The clothes were moistened with it and heated on fire and then washed with clean water.¹²⁵ Thrashing against stone,¹²⁶ brushing (*ghattha*), rubbing (*mattha*), and perfuming (*sampadhūmiya*) of clothes was known.¹²⁷ Mention is also made of laundries (*rayagasālā*).¹²⁸

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¹²⁵ Nāyā, 5, p. 74; also Ava., cū II. p 61.

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¹²⁶ Pinda Nir 34.

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¹²⁷ Acā II 5. 1. 367; Brh. Sū, 1. 45.

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¹²⁸ Vya. Bhā., 10,484.

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Clothes such as towels etc. were dyed in saffron.¹²⁹ Clothes dyed in red colour (*kāsāi*) were worn in hot weather.¹³⁰ The *parivrājakas* used to wear clothes dyed in red ochre (geruya).¹³¹ The profession of a rajaka, washerman, combined with itself the profession of a dyer as well.

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¹²⁹ Nāyā 1, p. 7.

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¹³⁰ Brh. Bhā. Pi., 613.

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¹³¹ Nisī. Cū., 13. p. 865.

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