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An Encyclopaedia of Indian Archaeology v1.c15.s3: 10.3 Other Ornaments

An Encyclopaedia of Indian Archaeology v1.c15.s3

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10.3 Other Ornaments

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In India ornaments were treasured not only because of their decorative and intrinsic value but also because they were considered auspicious. It is however strange that in spite of the profusion of ornaments displayed in plastic arts and described in literature actual finds in excavations are scarce. This may largely be attributed to the practice of cremating the dead with ornaments on, as a result of which no graves—treasure house of jewellery as in C. Asia and elsewhere—have been left to the archaeologist.

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A study of ornaments based on excavated finds only remains incomplete unless supplemented by texts, sculptures, paintings and the like. This is specially true of the historical period. On sculptures, for example, we find portrayal of a wide variety of ornaments like girdles, *udara-bandha*, *yajñopavīta*, amulets worn across the chest, *channavīra* and ornaments for the back of the hand, but these are absent in archaeological finds. Texts further add to our knowledge and provide vivid descriptions of the materials used for ornaments and their mode of manufacture. These have not been utilized below. Further owing to the geographical limitations of this work the treatment of sites in Pakistan, which have yielded rich hoards of ornaments, has been minimal.

10.3.1 Head ornaments

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The bulk of head ornaments displaying an amazing variety comes from the Harappa [4.9] sites. Cones of gold, silver, ivory, shell, terracotta and faïence were used for adorning the head. Another popular head ornament of faïence was fan-shaped. An 8-shaped ornament from Harappa was possibly used for decorating the bun at the back of the head. Fillets with attached round ornaments were worn on the forehead. Hairpins were made of bronze, ivory, steatite and shell and their heads were tastefully decorated with spirals and animal figures, thus presenting foreign analogies (Wheeler, 1968).

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Later on head ornaments present a poor array. The Megalithic [4.17] urn burials at ADICHANALLUR have yielded gold and bronze diadems worn on the forehead. Two large shells with copper riveting from the Mauryan levels at NASIK have also been described as head ornaments. Crescent-shaped terracotta pendants from BRAHMAPURI and KONDAPUR, dating to the Sātavāhana period, may have been worn on the forehead. Hairpins are scarce and are restricted to a few plain specimens of copper and ivory. A few ivory combs [18.3] recovered from the early historical levels at UJJAIN, NEVASA and TRIPURĪ may also have been used as head ornaments.

10.3.2 Nose ornaments

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Mackay, 1938, has identified some studs found at Mohenjo-daro as nose ornaments. NEVASA and KAUŚĀMBĪ are said to have yielded noserings belonging to the early centuries of the Christian era. The evidence provided by sculptures and literary sources on the use of nose ornaments is however negative and it is the general opinion of scholars (Chandra, 1964, pp. 45-56) that nose ornaments were first introduced in India only in the 16th-17th centuries.

10.3.3 Ear ornaments

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Holes in the ears of terracotta figurines from the Harappa sites suggest that women of the Harappa culture had their ears pierced for wearing ornaments. These sites have yielded ear tops with a knob at the back and a variety of ear pendants made of faïence and steatite. Ear-rings of copper, bronze and silver have also been recovered. Another form of ear ornament was in the shape of copper cones.

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An interesting specimen of ear ornaments of bone in the shape of an arrowhead has been recovered from the Neolithic levels of CHIRAND. The Chalcolithic sites of AHAR² and NAVDATOLI have yielded ear studs and cylindrical ornaments made of terracotta, bone, shell and ivory. Megalithic MAHURJHARI has yielded gold spirals used as ear-rings, circular ear ornaments of gold and a complete ear ornament of gold wire with three coils inserted into it. Pulley-shaped ear ornaments of crystal, agate, jasper and chert have been reported from a large number of early historical sites throughout the country. Their earliest occurrence is at HASTINĀPURA in the PGW [4.15] levels and they are quite popular during Mauryan and Sātavāhana times. SISUPALGARH has yielded a few specimens from its mid-levels. At SALIHUNDAM terracotta spools have been reported as late as 5th-8th centuries. Another type of wide prevalence during the early centuries of the Christian era was disc-shaped with a cylindrical stem. VAIŚĀLĪ has produced three different types of gold ear ornaments dating to the 4th-5th centuries. One is an S-shaped ornament decorated with a rosette, commas, cones and acanthus, another is a pair of ear-rings with clamps and the third is a pair of rings fitted with cylindrical tubes and top bosses.

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*10.3.4 Neck ornaments.* Beads of all shapes and sizes are of abundant occurrence in excavations [10.1], but complete necklaces of beads are rare. Of the prehistoric sites mention may be made of Harappa, Mohenjo-daro, LOTHAL, KAYATHA, NEVASA, CHANDOLI, JUNAPANI and MAHURJHARI. These have yielded necklaces made of semiprecious stones, shell, gold, copper and steatite.

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Pendants of various materials and of different forms and shapes have been found in profusion. Of great interest are clay bullae, possibly worn around the neck [6.4].

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Amulets [12.1] have been worn from the earliest times, possibly as a protection against the evil eye. A large number of amulets in the shape of animals like tortoise, elephant, lion, bull and birds have been recovered from the Harappa sites. They continue to be popular till the early centuries of the Christian era. Not uncommon are amulets in the form of human figures, the earliest occurrence being that from a Harappa site.

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*10.3.5 Arm and wrist ornaments.* The earliest occurrence of bangles made of shell, copper and terracotta is in the pre-Harappa levels of KALIBANGAN. The Harappa settlements have yielded a large number of bangles of different materials such as gold, silver, copper, faïence, shell, steatite and terracotta. Heart-shaped bangles of faïence with cog-wheel edges come from Harappa. The only Neolithic [4.6] site to yield bangles is CHIRAND. The materials are limited to tortoise shell, bone and terracotta. Arm and wrist ornaments from Chalcolithic [4.14] assemblages comprise bangles of terracotta, shell and copper; they are generally plain, the exceptions being decorated shell bangles from PRAKASH, spiral copper bangles from PANDU RAJAR DHIBI and ivory bangles from INAMGAON. Copper and terracotta were also materials used for bangles in the OCW culture [4.12] as evidenced at LAL QILA.

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Of great importance is the discovery of monochrome glass bangles from PGW levels at HASTINĀPURA and ROPAR. This greatly pushes back the antiquity of monochrome glass bangles in India. Somewhat later evidence comes from UJJAIN and ŚRĀVASTĪ. Since then such bangles have continued in use and are popular to the present day. Polychrome bangles however came into vogue much later and the evidence from PRAKASH, UJJAIN and YELLESWARAM suggests the close of the 1st millennium A.D. as the probable date.

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Excavation of the Megalithic [4.17] graves at MAHURJHARI has produced copper bangles with etched decoration on the outer surface of the terminals.

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Bangles of shell, terracotta, copper and bronze, both plain and decorated, are of widespread occurrence at the early and late historical sites throughout the country. Of interest are decorated shell bangles recovered from Mauryan and late Mauryan levels at AHAR,² RAIRH, NEVASA and MAHESHWAR. These have a broad groove on the outer surface for gold-leaf inlay [10.2]. Some bangle fragments have copper rivetments, also probably for decoration.

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Bangles of agate and chalcedony have been found in the Mauryan levels at KAUṆḌINYAPURA. Gold bangles are considerably rarer, one of the few being from the early historical levels of BRAHMAGIRI. In contrast to this a good number of gold bangles and bracelets have been recovered from Taxila.

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Even though terracotta and sculptures point to the use of armlets, these are not common from excavations. Possibly large-sized bangles may have been used as armlets.

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*10.3.6 Finger rings.* Plain rings of copper and terracotta are of widespread occurrence from ancient times. Other materials used are gold, silver, ivory, shell and during historical times glass. Of interest is a circular brass signet ring from BESNAGAR (1st century B.C.).

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*10.3.7 Foot ornaments.* Two skeletons with anklets of paste beads found at Harappa (Wheeler, 1947, p. 86) testify to the prevalence of anklets during Harappa times. In excavated finds anklets are limited to those of copper and are reported from very few sites. An interesting find of a foot ornament is that of a Harappa painted terracotta ring, possibly a toe-ring.

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*10.3.8 Miscellaneous.* Buttons and brooches have been reported from the Harappa sites.

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Chandra, Rai Govind, 1964, *Studies in the Development of Ornaments & Jewellery in India*, Varanasi (with full bibliography). Dikshit, M.G., 1951-2, in *Bull. Prince of Wales Museum*, Bombay, 2 (for amulets); 1967, *Glass in India*, Bombay. Mackay, E.J.H., 1938, *Further Excavations at Mohenjo-daro*, Delhi. Margabandhu, C., 1976, in *Vishveshvaranand Indological Jour.*, 14, pp. 274-82 (for pendants from Amreli). Marshall, J., 1931, *Mohenjo-daro & the Indus Civilization*, London, 2. Vats, M.S., 1940, *Excavations at Harappa*, Delhi, 1. Wheeler, R.E.M., 1947, in *AI*, 3; 1968, *Indus Civilization*, Cambridge. For other sites see respective entries in vol II. —H.P. RAY

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