History of Technology in India, Vol. I: From Antiquity to c. 1200 A.D. v1.c23.s3.1

v1.c23.s3.1

By and large, pre-Islamic Indian predelictions in colour tended towards a sober palate ²¹. The range of colour in cotton dyeing was based on blue and black from *Indigofera tinctoria*, black from iron acetate or a ferrugenous earth from Kutch called *Khayo*, red from either *Rubia cordifolia*, *Morinda citrifolia* or *Ventilago madraspatana*, yellow from *Curcuma longa* (turmeric), *Punica granatam* (pomegranate rind) or *Mangifera indica* (mango bark extract). Different shades could be obtained by combining individual dyeing procedures. Tanning and mordanting were very important pre-dyeing operations for cotton ²². In Egypt mordanting in linen was practiced but the importance of tanning for fixing of the mordant was mastered in India ²³. There is some variation in methods of dyeing and dyes used in the range of fibres such as silk and wool ²⁴. In the case of silk, efficient degumming is essential for success in subsequent dyeing operations. Generally, the yarn rather than the woven fabric has been dyed.