History of Technology in India, Vol. I: From Antiquity to c. 1200 A.D. v1.c23.s4.7

v1.c23.s4.7

Ornamentation on the loom can be achieved by introducing variations in color while maintaining a simple tabby weave (Fig.8). Similar effects can be achieved by using double cloth techniques in which warp ends are manipulated at two or more levels by relevant shafts and heddles. An example of this technique may be found in the khes²⁷ of Punjab (Figs.9a-b.). Items similar in patterning and technique and dated between the 12th and 16th centuries in the Dumbarton Oaks, collection, U.S.A., have been assigned an Egyptian provenance. This corresponds to the period between the Ayyubid and Mamluk dynasties thus reinforcing a Near Eastern origin for the sub- category called majñu in India (Thompson, pp. 35-36; Lamm, p.60, plate XXA, B).