History of Technology in India, Vol. I: From Antiquity to c. 1200 A.D. v1.c34.s2.2

v1.c34.s2.2

Accordingly, the art of gems and jewellery reached the culminating points during the Gupta-age. The earlier ornaments were continued and modified and so also many fresh forms were introduced to suit the new social traits and traditions. The use of precious stones with splendorous shades on the glittering surface of the gold became the characteristic feature of the Gupta jewellery. It necessitated the *Ratnaparīkṣā* or the examination of jewels, which was included among the sixty-four subsidiary branches of knowledge in Vatsyayana’s *Kāmasūtra*. The Buddhist chronicle, *Divyāvadāna*, prescribes this science as a part of training to the sons of trading merchants (*Divya*, p. 26, 99-100). Another important work, *Bṛhat-Saṃhitā* of Varāhamihira, gives a vivid account of different gems, their provence, colours and other characteristic features (Kern, 1865). The numerous literary sources provide countless references to the use of gems for various purposes, such as their appliance in jewellery, costumes, furniture, seals and other objects of household. The gems were encrusted as well as inlaid on the objects of exceeding beauty. The art of cutting and polishing the precious stones was pursued with great vigour and industry.