四分律行事鈔資持記 3.22

3.22

財體中，初科，前示如法。熟緻即紬絹麻苧熟練厚緻者。然據律文，猶通紬絹。若準《章服儀》、《感通傳》，皆非如法，今略引之。傳中，天人云：佛法東傳六七百載，南北律師曾無此意；安用殺生之財，而為慈悲之服，師何獨拔此意？祖師答曰：余因讀《智度論》，見佛著麁布伽梨，因懷在心，何得乖此？及聽律後，便見蠶衣臥具，縱得已成，並斬壞塗埵；由此重增景仰。又云：復見西來梵僧，咸著布㲲，具問，答云：五天竺國，無著蠶衣，由此興念，著《章服儀》等。義淨三藏《內法傳》中，反加誹毀；彼學小乘有部，故多偏執；今宗大乘了義，非彼所知。若下，簡非法。生疎即今有用生紗生苧蕉葛等物作袈裟，並是非法。文中紗別生熟俱非，紬即生者不得。綃，古云：生絲繒也；又云：蜀中出細薄絹名綃，引證三段。《四分》證上綾綺。《僧祇》證上生疎；毛髮樹皮等，並外道服。《五百問》，紬絹等不現身者，雖生而厚，障形不露，故云如法。

In "Material Substance": In the first heading, the preceding text shows what accords with the Dharma. "Tightly woven" refers to pongee, fine silk, hemp, and ramie that are boiled and processed to be thick and dense. However, according to the Vinaya text, pongee and fine silk are still permissible. If following the Rituals for Monastic Robes and the Record of Miraculous Communications, neither accords with the Dharma; they are now briefly cited. In the Record, a celestial being said: "The Buddha's Dharma has been transmitted eastward for six or seven hundred years, yet Vinaya masters of north and south have never had this intention: why use wealth obtained from killing living beings to make the robe of compassion? Why do you alone extract this intention?" The Patriarchal Master replied: "When reading the Mahāprajñāpāramitā-śāstra, I saw that the Buddha wore a coarse cloth saṃghāṭī. I kept this in mind: how could I go against it? And after studying the Vinaya, I saw that as for bedding made of silkworm fabric, even if already completed, it must be chopped, ruined, and smeared over with mud; because of this, my admiration deepened further." He also said: "Furthermore, I saw Indian monks coming from the west who all wore cotton cloth. Upon inquiring in detail, they answered: 'In the five Indias, no one wears silkworm clothing.' It was from this that the thought arose to write the Rituals for Monastic Robes and other texts." Tripiṭaka Master Yijing, in his Record of the Inner Dharma, reversely slandered this; he studied the Hīnayāna Sarvāstivāda, and thus had many partial attachments. Now we take the definitive Mahāyāna as our school, which is not what he understands. "If..." below eliminates what is not in accordance with the Dharma. "Raw and coarse" means that today some use raw gauze, raw ramie, plantain, kudzu, and other materials to make kaṣāyas; all these are not in accordance with the Dharma. In the text, for gauze, whether raw or processed, both are disallowed; for pongee, raw pongee may not be used. Xiao (綃), the ancients said, is raw silk fabric; others say that the fine, thin silk produced in Shu is named xiao. Three passages of evidence are cited: The Four-Part Vinaya proves the damask and patterned silks mentioned above. The Mahāsāṃghika-vinaya proves the raw and coarse [materials] above; hair, tree bark, and so forth are all the clothing of non-Buddhists. In the Five Hundred Questions, pongee, fine silk, and the like that do not reveal the body—though raw, they are thick and obstruct the form without exposing it—are therefore said to accord with the Dharma.