釋氏要覽 1.287

1.287

毘奈耶云。僧伽梨。得兩重作（義淨云。僧伽胘。唐言重復衣）。若三重作者。得惡作罪（自九條至二十五條。得用物夾作）○四分律云。大衣七條。要割截作。若五條。得襵葉作○準律。大衣服五日成。七條四日。成。五條二日成。限日不成。尼犯墮。比丘犯突吉羅罪。非本工故○（僧祇）律云。若作衣餘人助作。恐限日不成。應麁行針。急成竟受持。後更細㓨○南山大師章服儀云。諸律成衣。隨其豐儉。先其本制。如僧伽梨。欲創裁者。二十五條。財少以次減之。乃至九條七條。又不足乃縵作又云。今有情纏嗜好。自迷針縷。動必資人。但論㓨作之纖媚。不計工價之高下。或有雇縫之直。倍於衣價履歷荒孀。譏過斯負（抄略不次）。

The Vinaya states: "The saṃghāṭī may be made of two layers" (Yijing says: "The saṅghāṭī is called a double-layered robe in Chinese"). "If one makes it of three layers, one incurs an offense of bad action (from nine strips to twenty-five strips, it may be made double with material)." / The Dharmaguptaka Vinaya states: "The great robe and the seven-strip robe must be made by cutting into strips. The five-strip robe may be made by folding panels." / According to the Vinaya, a great robe must be completed in five days; a seven-strip robe in four days; a five-strip robe in two days. If not completed within the time limit, a nun commits an offense of fall (pāyattika), and a monk commits a duṣkṛta offense, because it is not his original craft. / The Mahāsāṃghika Vinaya states: "If when making robes other people assist, and one fears not completing it within the time limit, one should sew with coarse stitches and quickly finish it to accept and keep it, and later sew it more finely." / Master Nanshan's Protocols for Robes and Attire states: "In all the vinayas, completing robes follows whether one is rich or poor, giving priority to the original regulation. For example, for the saṃghāṭī, one who is about to cut it newly [makes it of] twenty-five strips; if materials are scarce, one decreases it sequentially down to nine strips or seven strips; if still insufficient, one makes it a plain robe." It also states: "Nowadays, people are entangled by worldly preferences and confused by needles and threads; whenever they act, they must rely on others. They only discuss the delicate charm of the embroidery, disregarding whether the labor cost is high or low. Sometimes the cost of hiring a tailor doubles the price of the robe; traveling to desolate widows, the fault of criticism is thus incurred" (excerpted and abbreviated, not in sequence).