釋氏要覽 1.287

1.287

The Vinaya states: "The saṃghāṭī may be made of two layers" (Yijing says: "The saṅghāṭī is called a double-layered robe in Chinese"). "If one makes it of three layers, one incurs an offense of bad action (from nine strips to twenty-five strips, it may be made double with material)." / The Dharmaguptaka Vinaya states: "The great robe and the seven-strip robe must be made by cutting into strips. The five-strip robe may be made by folding panels." / According to the Vinaya, a great robe must be completed in five days; a seven-strip robe in four days; a five-strip robe in two days. If not completed within the time limit, a nun commits an offense of fall (pāyattika), and a monk commits a duṣkṛta offense, because it is not his original craft. / The Mahāsāṃghika Vinaya states: "If when making robes other people assist, and one fears not completing it within the time limit, one should sew with coarse stitches and quickly finish it to accept and keep it, and later sew it more finely." / Master Nanshan's Protocols for Robes and Attire states: "In all the vinayas, completing robes follows whether one is rich or poor, giving priority to the original regulation. For example, for the saṃghāṭī, one who is about to cut it newly [makes it of] twenty-five strips; if materials are scarce, one decreases it sequentially down to nine strips or seven strips; if still insufficient, one makes it a plain robe." It also states: "Nowadays, people are entangled by worldly preferences and confused by needles and threads; whenever they act, they must rely on others. They only discuss the delicate charm of the embroidery, disregarding whether the labor cost is high or low. Sometimes the cost of hiring a tailor doubles the price of the robe; traveling to desolate widows, the fault of criticism is thus incurred" (excerpted and abbreviated, not in sequence).