History of Technology in India, Vol. I: From Antiquity to c. 1200 A.D. v1.c34.s1.12

v1.c34.s1.12

*Girdles*: There are numerous references to female girdles in early Sanskrit and Pali literature. The various names of female girdles seem to have been based on the number of strands in the ornament or the tinkling sound produced at the time of movement. The names, such as *Mekhalā*, *Kāñci*, *Saptakī*, *Rasanā* and *Sārasanā*, which are found mentioned in *Amarakośa*, are said to have signified the number of strands composing the girdle (Sivaramamurti, 1956). For instance, the term, "*Saptakī*" denotes a girdle with seven strings. "*Rasanā*" is probably the tinkling girdle with small bells suspended downwards. Sivaramamurti believes that the *Rasanā* or *Rasanākalapa* probably resembled a *mekhalā* but was fashioned like a cord or chain with numerous links composing it (Sivaramamurti, 1956). Similarly, the names *Kāñci* or *Kakṣa*, as Cunningham suggests, denote the specific girdles composed of brilliant red seeds of *Guñja* or *Abrus Precatorious* (Cunningham, 1962). The same scholar, on the basis of early Buddhist literature, takes the term *Mekhalā* as being "set with gems in newly burnished gold and silver" (Cunningham, 1962). The other names of girdles, such as the *Maddavīna*, *Kalābuka*, *Muraj* and *Deddubhaka* had their special characteristic qualities (Cunningham, 1962). The *Maddavīna* type of girdle had a rich, jewelled border. The *Kalābuka* was composed of many strips plaited together. The *Muraj* had drum-shaped knobs and the *Deddubhaka* had knobs in the form of a water snake.