History of Dharmashastra (Ancient and Mediaeval Religious and Civil Law in India) v2.c24.s1.15

v2.c24.s1.15

A brahmacārī had to wear two garments, one for the lower part of the body (vāsas), another for covering the upper part of the body (uttarīya). Āp. Dh. S. (I. 1. 2. 39–I. 1. 3. 1–2) says that 'the garment⁶⁴⁵ (vāsas) for a brāhmaṇa, kṣatriya or vaiśya brahmacārī is respectively to be made of hemp, flax, ajina (deerskin), some teachers prescribe that the lower garment should be of cotton but coloured reddish-yellow for brāhmaṇas; dyed with madder for kṣatriyas, dyed with turmeric for vaiśyas.' Pār. gṛ. (II. 5), Manu (II. 41) speak of 'āvika' (made of wool) for vaiśya instead of 'ajina'. Vas. Dh. S. (XI. 64-67) says that a brāhmaṇa (brahmacārī) should wear a (lower) garment which is white and unblemished (or new) and for a kṣatriya or vaiśya it should be the same as in Āp. Dh., but for vaiśya Vas. prescribes also one made of kuśa grass or he says that all should wear cotton cloth that is undyed.' Gaut. (I. 17–20) on the other hand says 'for all the lower garment may be made of hemp, flax or kuśa grass (*cīra*) or of the hair of the mountainous goat (kutapa); other teachers prescribe coloured garments, one coloured with the juice of trees for brāhmaṇas and madder-red and yellow for kṣatriya and vaiśya. Āśv. gṛ. (I. 19. 8), Pār. gṛ. (II. 5), Vas. Dh. S. (XI. 61–63), Baud. gṛ. (II. 5. 16) say that the upper garment for a brāhmaṇa should be the skin of a black deer, for kṣatriya the skin of ruru deer and for a vaiśya of cow-skin or of goat skin. Baud. and Āśv. prescribe only goat skin. Pār. gṛ. adds that if any one cannot secure a skin suited to one's varṇa, he may wear an upper garment of cow-hide as the cow is the chief among animals.⁶⁴⁶ Baud. gṛ. II. 5. 16 prescribes the skin of black deer for all in the same circumstances. Āp. Dh. S. (I. 1. 3. 7–8) gives the option to all varṇas to use a sheep skin (as upper garment) or a woollen plaid (*kambala*). Āśv. gṛ. (I. 19. 8–9) appears to suggest that the lower and upper garments may be of the same skin or that the lower garment may be white or coloured (as stated above by Āp. Dh. S.). The Kāṭhaka gṛ.⁶⁴⁷ (41. 13) says that the upper garment for the three varṇas should be respectively of the skins of black deer, tiger and *ruru* deer. A vestige of these rules survives in the modern practice of tying a small piece of deer skin to the yajñopavīta of the boy when his upanayana is performed.