THE great continent of Asia falls naturally into four parts or sub-continents. The east drains to the Pacific, and is mainly Buddhist. The north and west centre lie open in an arctic direction, and during the past century were united under Russian rule. The south-west, or Lower Asia, is the land of passage from Asia into Africa, and from the Indian ocean to the Atlantic. It is the homeland of Islām. In the middle south is the Indian subcontinent.

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The inhabitants of the United States describe their vast land as a sub-continent. As regards everything but mere area the expression is more appropriate to India. A single race and a single religion are overwhelmingly dominant in the United States, but in India a long history lives to-day in the most striking contrasts, presenting all manner of problems which it will take generations to solve.

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In the past there have been great empires in India, but it is a new thing that the entire region from the Hindu Kush to Ceylon, and from Seistān to the Irrawaddy should be united in a single political system. The one clear unity which India has possessed throughout history has been geographical. In no other part of the world, unless perhaps in South America, are the physical features on a grander scale. Yet no where else are they more simply combined into a single natural region.

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The object of this chapter is to give a geographical description of India, as the foundation upon which to build the historical chapters which follow. We will make an imaginary journey through the country, noting the salient features of each part, and will then consider it as a whole, in order to set the facts in perspective.

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The most convenient point at which to begin is Colombo, the strategical centre of British sea-power in the Indian ocean. Four streams of traffic, India-bound, converge upon Colombo from Aden and the Mediterranean, from the Cape, from Australia, and from Singapore and the Far East. From Cape Comorin, in the immediate neighbourhood of Colombo, the Indian coasts diverge to Bombay and Karāchi on the one hand, and to Madras, Calcutta, and Rangoon on the other.

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Colombo is not, however, in a technical sense Indian. It is the chief city of the luxuriant and beautiful island of Ceylon, which is about as large as Ireland. Neither to-day nor in the past has Ceylon been a mere appendage of India. The Buddhist religion of half its population, and the Dutch basis of its legal code are the embodiment of chapters in its history; it is for good historical reasons that the Governor of Ceylon writes his despatches home to the Secretary for the Colonies and not to the Secretary for India.

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The passage by steamer across the Gulf of Manaar from Colombo to Tuticorin on the mainland occupies a night. Midway on the voyage the mountains of Ceylon lie a hundred miles to the east, and Cape Comorin a hundred miles to the west. The gulf narrows northward to Palk Strait, which is almost closed by a chain of islands and shoals, so that the course of ships from Aden into the Bay of Bengal is outside Ceylon.

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Cape Comorin, the southernmost point of India, lies eight degrees north of the equator, a distance nearly equivalent to the length of Great Britain. From Comorin the Malabar and Coromandel coasts extend for a thousand miles, the one north-westward, and the other northward and then north-eastward. The surf of the Arabian sea beats on the Malabar coast, that of the Bay of Bengal on the Coromandel coast. Both the Arabian sea and the Bay of Bengal open broadly southward to the Indian ocean, for the Indian peninsula narrows between them to a point.

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The interior of the Indian peninsula is for the most part a low plateau, known as the Deccan, whose western edge is a steep brink overlooking the Malabar coast. From the top of this brink, called the Western Ghāts, the surface of the plateau falls gently eastward to a lower brink, which bears the name of Eastern Ghāts. Between the Eastern Ghāts and the Coromandel coast there is a belt of lowland, the Carnatic. Thus India presents a lofty front to the ship approaching from the west, but a featureless plain along the Bay of Bengal, where the trees of the coastline appear to rise out of a water horizon when seen from a short distance seaward.

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As the steamer approaches Tuticorin the land becomes visible some miles to the west as a low dark line along the horizon. Gradually the detail of the coast separates into a rich vegetation of trees and a white city, whose most prominent object is a cotton factory. India is a land of cotton. Its people have grown cotton, woven cotton, and worn cotton from time immemorial. The name calico is derived from Calicut, a town on the Malabar coast which was a centre of trade when Europeans first came over the ocean.

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On leaving Tuticorin we travel northward over the Carnatic plain. It is a barren looking country and dry, though at certain seasons there are plentiful rains, and crops enough are produced to maintain a dense population. Far down on the western horizon are the mountains of the Malabar coast, for in this extremity of India the Western and Eastern Ghāts have come together and there is no plateau between them. The mountains rise from the western sea and from the eastern plain into a ridge along the west coast, with summits about as high as the summits of Ceylon, that is to say some eight thousand feet. The westward slopes of these mountains, usually known as the Cardamon hills, belong to the little native states of Travancore and Cochin.

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A group of hills, isolated on the plain, marks the position of Madura, a hundred miles from Tuticorin. Madura is one of three southern cities with superb Hindu temples. The other two are Trichinopoly and Tanjore, standing not far from one another, a second hundred miles on the road from Tuticorin to Madras.

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A hundred and fifty miles west of Trichinopoly is Ootacamund, high on the Nīlgiri hills. 'Ooty,' as it is familiarly called, stands some seven thousand feet above the sea in the midst of a country of rolling downs, rising at highest to nearly nine thousand feet. This lofty district forms the southern point of the Deccan plateau, where the Eastern and Western Ghāts draw together.

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South of the Nīlgiris is one of the most important features in the geography of Southern India. The western mountains are here breached by the broad Gap of Coimbatore or Pālghāt, giving lowland access from the Carnatic plain to the Malabar coast. The Cardamon hills face the Nīlgiris across this passage, which is about twenty miles broad from north to south, and only a thousand feet above the sea.

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The significance of the Gap of Coimbatore becomes evident when we consider the distribution of population in Southern India. For two hundred miles south of Madras, as far as Trichinopoly and Tanjore, the Carnatic plain is densely peopled. There are more than 400 inhabitants to the square mile. A second district of equal density of population extends from Coimbatore through the Gap to the Malabar coast between the ancient ports of Cochin and Calicut. There are many natural harbours along the Malabar coast all the way from Bombay southward, but the precipitous and forested Western Ghāts impede communication with the interior. Only from Calicut and Cochin is there an easy road to the Carnatic markets, and this is the more important because the Coromandel coast is beaten with a great surf and has no natural harbours.

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To-day there is a railway from Madras through the Gap of Coimbatore to Cochin and Calicut, and from this railway a rack and pinion line has been constructed up into the Nīlgiri heights to give access to the hill station of Ootacamund. There are magnificent landscapes at the edge of the Nīlgiris where the mountains descend abruptly to the plains. On the slopes are great forests in which large game abound, such as sāmbar and tiger. On the heights the vegetation is naturally different from the lowland. The cultivation of the Nīlgiris is chiefly of tea and cinchona.

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Northward of the Nīlgiris, on the plateau between the Ghāts, is the large native state of Mysore. The Cauvery river rises in the Western Ghāts, almost within sight of the western sea, and flows eastward across Mysore. As it descends the Eastern Ghāts it makes great falls. Then it traverses the Carnatic lowland past Trichinopoly and Tanjore to the Bay of Bengal. The falls have been harnessed and made to supply power, which is carried electrically for nearly a hundred miles to the Kolār goldfield.

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Around the sources of the Cauvery, high in the Western Ghāts, is the little territory of Coorg, no larger than the county of Essex in England. The best of the Indian coffee plantations are in Coorg, which is directly under the British Raj, although administered apart from Madras. Mysore is separated from both coasts by the British Province or Presidency of Madras, which extends through the Gap of Coimbatore.

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All the southern extremity of India, except the greater heights, is warm at all times of the year, though the heat is never so great as in the hot season of northern India. There is no cool season in the south comparable with that of the north. In most parts of India there are five cool months, October, November, December, January, and February. March, April, and May are the hot season. The remaining four months constitute the rainy season, when the temperature is moderated by the presence of cloud. In the south, almost girt by the sea, some rain falls at all seasons, but along the Malabar coast the west winds of the summer bring great rains. These winds strike the Western Ghāts and the Nīlgiri hills, and drench them with moisture, so that they are thickly forested. At this season great waterfalls leap down the westward ravines and feed torrents which rush in short valleys to the ocean. One of the grandest falls in the world is at Gersoppa in the north-west corner of Mysore.

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The city of Madras lies low on the coast four hundred miles north of Tuticorin, but the chief military station of southern India is Bangalore on the plateau within Mysore. A hundred years ago, when Sultān Tipū of Mysore had been defeated by the British, Colonel Wellesley, afterwards the great Duke of Wellington, was appointed to command ‘the troops above the Ghāts.’ The expression is a picture of the contrast between the lowland Presidency and the upland Feudal State.

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Madras city, like the other seaports of modern India, has grown from the smallest beginnings within the European period. It has now a population of more than half a million. Until within recent years, however, Madras had no harbour. Communication was maintained with ships in the open roadstead by means of surf boats. Two piers have now been built out into the sea at right angles to the shore. At their extremities they bend inward towards one another so as to include a quadrangular space. None the less there are times when the mighty waves sweep in through the open mouth, rendering the harbour unsafe, so that the shipping must stand out to sea. Almost every summer half a dozen cyclones strike the east coast of India from the Bay of Bengal. When the Madras harbour was half completed the works were overwhelmed by a storm, and the undertaking had to be recommenced. If we consider the surf of the Coromandel coast, and the barrier presented by the Western Ghāts behind the Malabar coast, we have some measure of the comparative isolation of southern India.

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From the far south we cross the Bay of Bengal to the far east of India. Burma is the newest province of the Indian Empire, if we except sub-divisions of older units. In race, language, religion, and social customs it is nearer to China than it is to India. In these respects it may be considered rather the first land of the Far East than the last of India, the Middle East. Geographically, however, Burma is in relation with the Indian world across the Bay of Bengal, for it has a great navigable river which drains into the Indian ocean, and not into the Pacific as do the rivers of the neighbouring countries, Siam and Annam. Commercially it is coming every day into closer relation with the remainder of the Indian Empire, for it is a fruitful land of sparse population, which may perhaps be developed in the future by the surplus labour of the Indian plains.

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The approach from the sea is unimpressive, for the shore is formed by the delta of the Irrawaddy river. The easternmost of the channels by which that great stream enters the sea is the Rangoon river. The city of Rangoon stands some thirty miles up this channel. The golden spire of its great pagoda rises from among the trees on the first low hill at the edge of the deltaic plain.

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Fifty years ago Rangoon was a village. To-day it has a quarter of a million people. Like the other coast towns of India and Ceylon, it owes its greatness to the Europeans who have come over the ocean. In all the earlier ages India looked inward, not outward.

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Rangoon is placed where the river makes a bend eastward. The city lies along the north bank for some miles, to the point where the Pegu tributary enters. Black smoke hangs over the Pegu river, for there are many rice mills with tall chimneys along its banks. Rangoon harbour is always busy with shipping. Along its quays are great timber yards and oil mills, for the products of Burma are first and foremost rice, and then timber, especially great logs of teak, harder than oak, and then petroleum. The work of the port and mills is largely in the hands of Indians and Chinese. The Burmese are chiefly occupied with work in the fields.

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The geography of Burma is of a simple design. It consists of four parallel ranges of mountain striking southward, and three long intervening valleys. The easternmost range separates Burma and the drainage to the Indian ocean from Siam and the drainage to the Pacific ocean. This great divide is continued through the Malay peninsula almost to Singapore, only one degree north of the equator. The westernmost range divides Burma from India proper, and then follows the west coast of Burma to Cape Negrais. This range is continued over the bed of the ocean, and reappears in the long chain of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands. In its entirety it has a graceful waving lie upon the map, curving first to the west, then to the east, and then again to the west. The two intervening ranges separate the Salween, Sittang, and Irrawaddy valleys.

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The valley of the Salween is less deeply trenched between its bounding ranges than are the other two, and therefore has a steeply descending course broken by rapids, and is of small value for navigation. At its mouth is the port of Moulmein. The valley of the Sittang, which is a relatively short river, prolongs the upper valley of the Irrawaddy, for the latter stream makes a westward bend at Mandalay, and passes by a transverse gap through one of the parallel ridges. Beyond this gap it bends southward again, accepting the direction of its tributary, the Chindwin. The railway from Rangoon to Mandalay runs through the Sittang valley and does not follow the Irrawaddy.

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The delta of the Irrawaddy bears the name of Pegu or Lower Burma. The region round Mandalay is Upper Burma. The coastland beyond the westernmost of the mountain ranges is known as Arakan. The coastland south of the mouth of the Salween, beset with an archipelago of beautiful islands, is known as Tenasserim.

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The train from Rangoon to Mandalay crosses the broad levels of the delta, passing through endless rice or 'paddy' fields. Only the ears of the grain are lopped off; the straw is burnt as it stands. The Burmans are mostly yeomen, each owning his cattle and doing his own work in the fields. Beyond the delta the railway follows the Sittang river, with hill ranges low on the eastern and western horizons. At Mandalay it comes through to the Irrawaddy again.

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There is a hill in the northern suburbs of Mandalay, several hundred feet high, from which you may look over the city. Even when seen from this height the houses are so buried in foliage that the place appears like a wood of green trees. It has a population of about two hundred thousand, so that it is now smaller than upstart Rangoon. Mandalay is the last of three capitals a few miles apart, which at different times in the past century were the seat of the Burmese kings. Amarapura, a few miles to the south, was the capital until 1822. Ava, a few miles to the west, was the capital from 1822 to 1837.

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The navigation of the Irrawaddy extends for nine hundred miles from the sea to Bhamo, near the border of the Chinese Empire. As the steamer goes northward from Mandalay the banks are at first flat, with here and there a group of white pagodas. Great rafts of bamboo and teak logs float down the river. At Kathā the flat country is left, for the river there comes from the east through grand defiles, with wooded fronts descending to the water's edge. Bhamo lies low along the river bank beyond the narrows. It is only twenty miles from the Chinese frontier. Many of its houses are raised high upon piles, because of the river floods. Until recently the Kachin hillmen often raided the caravans passing from Bhamo into China.

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To realise the antiquity and the splendour of early Burmese civilisation we must descend the Irrawaddy below Mandalay to Pagan. There for some ten miles beside the river, and for three miles back from its bank, are the ruins of a great capital, which flourished about the time of the Norman Conquest of England. From the centre of the ruined city there are pagodas and temples in every direction.

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Pagan is situated in what is known as the dry belt of Burma, the typical vegetation of which is a tall growth of cactus. In Burma the winds of summer and autumn blow from the south-west, as they do in southern India. They bring moisture from the sea, which falls in heavy rain on the west side of the mountains and over the delta. At Rangoon there is an annual rainfall of more than one hundred inches, or more than three times the rainfall of London. At Pagan, however, lying deep in the Irrawaddy valley under the lee of the continuous Arakan range, the rainfall is small, as little as twenty inches in the year, and the climate is hot and evaporation rapid.

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Elsewhere in Burma are either rich crops, or the most luxuriant forests of tall leafy trees, full of game and haunted by poisonous snakes. Wild peacocks come from the woods to feed on the rice when it is ripe, and tigers are not unknown in the villages. Only a few years ago a tiger was shot on one of the ledges of the great pagoda in Rangoon. Notwithstanding the age of its civilisation Burma is still subject to a masterful nature. Moreover civilisation is confined to the immediate valleys and delta of the Irrawaddy and Salween. On the forested hills are wild tribes, akin to the Burmese in speech and physique—the Shans in the east, the Kachins in the north, and the Chins in the west. Burma contains but twelve million people—Burmese, Chinese, Hindus, and the hill tribes.

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From Burma the passage to Bengal is by steamer, for the Burmese and Indian railway systems have not yet been connected. The heart of Bengal is one of the largest deltas in the world, a great plain of moist silt brought down by the rivers Ganges and Brahmaputra from the Himālaya mountains. But hill country is included along the borders of the province.

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To the north the map shows the high tableland of Tibet, edged by the Himālaya range, whose southern slopes descend steeply, but with many foothills, to the level low-lying plains of the great rivers. Eastward of Bengal there is a mountainous belt, rising to heights of more than six thousand feet and densely forested, which separates the Irrawaddy valley of Burma from the plains of India. These mountains throw out a spur westward, which rises a little near its end into the Gāro hills. The deeply trenched, relatively narrow valley of the Brahmaputra, known as Assam, lies between the Gāro hills and the Himālayas. The southward drainage from the Gāro hills forms a deltaic plain, extending nearly to the port of Chittagong. This plain, traversed by the Meghnā river which gathers water from the Gāro and Khāsi range, is continuous with the delta of Bengal proper.

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To the west of Bengal is another hill spur, bearing the name of Rājmahāl, which is the north-eastern point of the plateau of central and southern India. A broad lowland gateway is left between the Gāro and Rājmahāl hills, and through this opening the Brahmaputra and Ganges rivers turn southward and converge gradually until they join with the Meghnā to form a vast estuary. The country west of this estuary is the Bengal delta, traversed by many minor channels, which branch from the right bank of the Ganges before the confluence with the Meghnā. East of the estuary is that other deltaic land whose silt is derived from the south front of the Gāro hills. It is said that the highest rainfall in the world occurs in those hills, when the monsoon sweeps northward from the Bay of Bengal, and blows against their face. The rainfall on a single day in the rainy season is sometimes as great as the whole annual rainfall of London. Little wonder that there is abundance of silt for the formation of the fertile plains below!

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The approach to the coast of Bengal, as may be concluded from this geographical description, presents little of interest. At the entrance to the Hooghly river, the westernmost of the deltaic channels, are broad grey mud banks, with here and there a palm tree. From time to time, as the ship passes some more solid ground, there are villages of thatched huts, surrounded by tall green banana plantations.

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Calcutta, the chief port and largest town of modern India, is placed no less than eighty miles up the Hooghly on its eastern bank. The large industrial town of Howrah stands opposite on the western bank. Not a hill is in sight round all the horizon. Only the great dome of the post office rises white in the sunshine. Calcutta is connected with the jute mills and engineering works of Howrah by a single bridge. Below this bridge is the port, always thronged with shipping.

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Calcutta has grown round Fort William as a nucleus. The present Fort, with its outworks, occupies a space of nearly a thousand acres on the east bank of the Hooghly below the Howrah bridge. To the north, east, and south, forming a glacis for the fort, is a wide green plain, the Maidān, and beyond this is the city. The European quarter lies to the east of the Maidān. The government offices, and beyond them the great native city, lie to the north. Calcutta with more than a million inhabitants exceeds Glasgow in size, and is the second city of the British Empire.

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Three hundred miles away to the north, approached from Calcutta by the East Bengal railway, is Darjeeling, the hill station of Calcutta, as Ootacamund is of Madras. The railway traverses the dead level of the plain, with its thickly set villages and tropical vegetation. There are some seven hundred and fifty thousand villages in India, and they contain about ninety per cent. of the total population. The Province of Bengal has a population equal to that of Great Britain and Ireland, but concentrated on an area less than that of Great Britain without Ireland. Yet it contains only one great city, as greatness of cities is measured in the British Islands.

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Mid-way from Calcutta to Darjeeling the Ganges is crossed. The passage occupies about twenty minutes from one low-lying bank to the other. Then the journey is resumed through the rice fields, with their clumps of graceful bamboo, until at last the hills become visible across the northern horizon. The train runs into a belt of jungle at the foot of the first ascent. Passengers change to a mountan railway, which carries them up the steep front, with many a turn and twist. On the lower slopes is tall forest of teak and other great trees, hung thickly with creepers. Presently the timber becomes smaller, and tea plantations are passed with trim rows of green bushes. Far below, at the foot of the steep forest, spreads to the southern horizon the vast cultivated plain. Finally trees of the fir tribe take the place of leafy trees, and the train attains to the sharp ridge top on which is placed Darjeeling, a settlement of detached villas in compounds, hanging on the slopes.

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Darjeeling is about seven thousand feet above sea-level, on an east and west ridge, with the plains to the south and the gorge of the Rangīt river to the north. In the early morning, in fortunate weather, the visitor may gaze northward upon one of the most glorious scenes in the world. Over the deep valley at his feet, still dark in the shade, and over successive ridge tops beyond, rises the mighty snow range of the Himālayas, fifty miles away, with the peak of Kinchinjunga, more than five miles high, dominating the landscape. Behind Kinchinjunga, a little to the west, and visible from Tiger hill, near Darjeeling, though not from Darjeeling itself, is Mount Everest, the highest mountain in the world, more than five and a half miles high. Across the vast chasm and bare granite summits in the foreground, the glittering wall of white mountains seems to hang in the sky as though belonging to another world. The broad distance, and the sudden leap to supreme height, give to the scene a mysterious and almost visionary grandeur. It is, however, only occasionally that the culminating peaks can be seen, for they are often veiled in cloud.

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The people of Sikkim, the native state in the hills beyond Darjeeling, are highlanders of Mongolian stock and not Indian. They are of Buddhist religion like the Burmans, and not Hindu or Muhammadan like the inhabitants of the plains. They are small sturdy folk, with oblique cut eyes and a Chinese expression, and they have the easy going humourous character of the Burmans, though not the delicacy and civilisation of those inhabitants of the sunny lowland.

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It is an interesting fact that these hill people should belong to the race which spreads over the vast Chinese Empire. That race here advances to the last hill brinks which overlook the Indian lowland. The political map of this part of India illustrates a parallel fact. While the plains are administered directly by British officials, the mountain slopes descending to them are ruled by native princes, whose territories form a strip along the northern boundary of India. North of Assam and Bengal we have in succession, from east to west in the belt of hill country, the lands of Bhutān, Sikkim, and Nepāl. From Nepāl are recruited the Gurkha regiments of the Indian army, the Gurkhas being a race of the same small and sturdy hill men as the people of Sikkim. In other words, they are of a Mongoloid stock, though of Hindu religion.

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The Rangīt river drains from the hills of Darjeeling, and from the snow mountains beyond, into a tributary of the Ganges. Several hundred such torrents burst in long succession through deep portals in the Himālayan foot hills and feed the great rivers of the plain. These torrents are perennial, for they originate in the melting of the glaciers, and the Himālayan glaciers cover a vast area, being fed by the monsoon snows. Nearly all the agricultural wealth of northern India owes its origin to the summer or oceanic monsoon, which beats against the Himālayan mountain edge. That edge, gracefully curving upon the map, extends through fifteen hundred miles. The streams which descend from it in long series gather into the rivers Brahmaputra, Ganges, and Indus.

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The valley of the Brahmaputra forms the province of Assam. Notwithstanding its vast natural resources, Assam is a country which, at most periods of its history, has remained outside the Indian civilisation. Even to-day it has but a sparse population and a relatively small commercial development, for it lies on the through road no whither. High and difficult mountains close in the eastern end of its great valley.

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The geography of Assam, though very simple, is on a very grand scale. The Tsan-po river rises high on the plateau of Tibet northward of Lucknow. For more than seven hundred miles it flows eastward over the plateau in rear of the Himālayan peaks. Then it turns sharply southward, and descends from a great height steeply through a deep gorge, until it emerges from the mountains at a level not a thousand feet above the sea. At this point, turning westward, it forms the Brahmaputra, ‘the son of Brahmā, the Creator.’ The Brahmaputra flows for four hundred and fifty miles westward through the valley of Assam, deeply trenched between the snowy wall of the Himālayas on the one hand and the forested mountains of the Burmese border and the Khāsi and Gāro hills on the other hand. The river rolls down the valley in a vast sheet of water, depositing banks of silt at the smallest obstruction. Islands form and reform, and broad channels break away from the main river in time of flood, and there is no attempt to control them. The swamps on either hand are flooded in the rainy season, till the lower valley is one broad shining sea, from which the hills slope up on either side. The traffic on the river is maintained chiefly by exports of tea and timber, and imports of rice for the labourers on the tea estates. Some day, when great sums of money are available for capital expenditure, the Brahmaputra will be controlled, and Assam will become the seat of teeming production and a dense population. The Indian Empire contains three hundred and fifteen million people, but it also contains some of the chief virgin resources of the world.

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Where the Brahmaputra bends southward round the foot of the Gāro hills the valley of Assam opens to the plain of Bengal. Across that plain westward, where the Ganges makes a similar southward bend round the Rājmahāl hills, Bengal merges with the great plain of Hindustān, which extends westward and north-westward along the foot of the Himālayas for some seven hundred miles to the point where the Jumna, westernmost of the Gangetic tributaries, leaves its mountain valley. Hindustān begins with a breadth of about a hundred miles between the Rājmahāl hills and the northern mountains, spreads gradually to a breadth of two hundred miles from the foot hills of the Himālayas to the first rise of the Central Indian hills, and then narrows again to a hundred miles where it merges with the Punjab plain between the Ridge of Delhi and the Himālayas. The great river Jumna-Ganges streams southward from the mountains across the head of the plain to Delhi, and then gradually bends south-eastward and eastward along that edge of the plain which is remote from the mountains, as though it were pinned against the foot of the Central hills by the impact of the successive great tributaries from the north. Three of these tributaries are the Upper Ganges itself, whose confluence is at Allahābād, and the Gogrā and the Gandak which enter above Patna. The Jumna-Ganges receives from the south the Chambal and Son, long rivers but comparatively poor in water.

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Access to the plains of Hindustān was formerly by the navigation of the Ganges and its tributaries. Then the Grand Trunk Road was made from Calcutta to Delhi. More recently the East Indian Railway has been built from Bengal to the Punjab. Both the road and the railway avoid the great bend round the hills by crossing the upland to the west of Rājmahāl. The road descends to the Ganges at Patna, but the railway at Benares, where it crosses by the lowest bridge over the Ganges.

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Two great provinces divide the plain of Hindustān between them. In the east is Bihār, with its capital at Patna; in the west are the United Provinces of Agra and Oudh with their capital at Allahābād. For administrative purposes Bihār is now joined with Orissa, the deltaic plain of the Mahānadī river on the coast of Bengal. A broad belt of sparsely populated hills separates Bihār from Orissa, whereas each of these fertile lowlands opens freely to Bengal, the one along the Ganges, and the other along the coast.

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When we go from Bengal into Bihār, or from Bihār into the United Provinces it is as though we crossed from one to another of the great continental states of Europe. The population of Bengal is larger than that of France. The population of Bihār and Orissa is equivalent to that of Italy. The population of the United Provinces is nearly equal to that of Germany since the War.

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Five considerable cities focus the great population of the United Provinces, Allahābād, Cawnpore, Lucknow, Agra, and Benares. Allahābād is built in the angle of confluence between the Jumna and the Ganges. A hundred miles above Allahābād, on the right or south bank of the Ganges, is the city of Cawnpore, and on the opposite or north bank extends the old kingdom of Oudh, with Lucknow for its capital, situated some forty miles north-east of Cawnpore. Agra, which gives its name to all that part of the United Provinces which did not formerly belong to Oudh, is situated on the right or south bank of the Jumna, a hundred and fifty miles west of Lucknow. All these distances lie over the dead level of the plain, dusty and like a desert in the dry season, but green and fertile after the rains. Scattered over the plain are innumerable villages in which dwell nineteen out of twenty of the inhabitants of the United Provinces.

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Eighty miles below Allāhābād, on the north bank of the Ganges is Benares, the most sacred city of the Hindus. Benares extends for four miles along the bank of the river, which here descends to the water with a steep brink. Down this brink are built flights of steps known as Ghāts, at the foot of which pilgrims bathe, and dead bodies are burnt. The south bank opposite lies low and is not sacred. The word Ghāt is identical with the name applied geographically to the west and east brinks of the Deccan Plateau.

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Cawnpore is the chief inland manufacturing city of India, contrasted in all its ways with Benares. But none of these cities are really great, when compared with the population of the United Provinces. Lucknow is the largest, and has only a quarter of a million inhabitants. Notwithstanding the great changes now in progress, India still presents in most parts essentially the same aspect as in long past centuries.

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If there be one part of India which we may think of as the shrine of shrines in a land where religion rules all life, it is to be found in the triangle of cities—Benares and Patna on the Ganges, and Gayā some fifty miles south of Patna. Benares has been a focus of Hinduism from very early times. Patna was the capital of the chief Gangetic kingdom more than two thousand years ago when the Greek ambassador Megasthenes, first of the westerns, travelled thus far into the east. Gayā was the spot where Buddha, seeking to reform Hinduism some five hundred years before Christ, obtained ‘enlightenment,’ and then migrated to teach at Benares, or rather at Sārnāth, now in ruins, three or four miles north of the present Benares. The peoples of all the vast Indian and Chinese world, from Karāchi to Pekin and Tokyo, look to this little group of cities as the centre of holiness, whether they be followers of Brahmā or of Buddha.

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The language of the United Provinces and of considerable districts to east, south, and west of them, is Hindī, the tongue of modern India most directly connected with ancient Sanskrit. Hindī is now spoken by a hundred million people in all the north centre of India. It is the language not only of Bihār and the United Provinces, but also of Delhi and of a wide district in Central India drained by the Chambal and Son rivers. Other tongues of similar origin are spoken in the regions around—Bengali to the east, Marāthī and Gujarātī to the south-west beyond the Ganges basin, and Punjābī to the north-west. Away to the south, beyond the limit of the Sanskrit tongues, in the Province of Madras and neighbouring areas, are languages wholly alien from Sanskrit. They differ from Hindī, Bengali, Marāthī, Gujarātī, and Punjābī much as the Turkish and Hungarian languages differ from the group of allied Indo-European tongues spoken in Western Europe. These southern Indian tongues are known as Dravidian. The most important of them are Telegu, spoken by twenty millions, and Tamil spoken by fifteen millions. The Dravidian south, however, and the Āryan north and centre agree generally in holding some form of Hinduism or Islām.

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Within the central hills there is a wide district drained north-eastward into the Jumna-Ganges chiefly by the rivers Chambal and Son. This district, much less fruitful than the plain of Hindustān, because less abundantly watered, and composed of rocky ground instead of alluvium, is ruled by native chiefs. The British suzerainty is exercised under the Viceroy by the Central Indian Agency. Of the chiefs of Central India the most important are Sindhia and Holkar, two Marāthās ruling Hindi populations. Sindhia's capital, Gwalior, lies a little south of Agra. It is dominated by an isolated rock fort, flat topped and steep sided, more than three hundred feet in height. Indore, Holkar's capital, lies in the land of Mālwā, on high ground about the sources of the Chambal river, a considerable distance south of Gwalior. In the neighbourhood is Mhow, one of the chief cantonments of the Indian army, placed on the high ground for climatic reasons, like Bangalore in southern India.

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The long upward slope to the Chambal headstreams ends on the summit of the Vindhya range, a high brink facing southward. From east to west along the foot of the Vindhya face runs the sacred river Narbadā in a deeply trenched valley. Thus the Narbadā has a course at right angles to the northward flowing Chambal streams on the heights above. The Son river occupies almost the same line of valley as the Narbadā, but flows north-eastward into the Ganges. On the south side of the Narbadā valley is the Sātpurā range, parallel with the Vindhya brink, and beyond this is the Tāpti river, shorter than the Narbadā, but flowing westward with a course generally parallel to that of the sacred river. The Narbadā and Tāpti form broad alluvial flats before they enter the side of the shallow Gulf of Cambay. South of the Tāpti begins the Deccan Plateau.

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Thus a line of hills and valleys crosses India obliquely from Rājmahāl to the Gulf of Cambay, and divides the rivers of the Indian Upland into three systems. North of the Vindhya brink, over an area as large as Germany, the drainage descends north-eastward to the Jumna-Ganges. Between the Vindhya range and the edge of the Deccan Plateau are the two exceptional rivers, Narbadā and Tāpti, flowing westward in deeply trenched valleys. From the Western Ghāts, and from the hills which cross India south of the Tāpti and Son to Rājmahāl, three great rivers flow southward and eastward to the Bay of Bengal—the Mahānadī, Godāvari, and Kistna. The area drained by these three streams of the plateau is a third of India.

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The first 'factory' of the English East India Company was at Surat on the lower Tāpti, but Bombay, two hundred miles farther south, long ago supplanted Surat as the chief centre of European influence in Western India. The more northern town had an easy road of access to the interior by the Tāpti valley, but the silt at the river mouth made it difficult of approach from the sea. Bombay offered the security of an island, and has a magnificent harbour between the island and the mainland, far from the mouth of any considerable stream.

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Two new facts have of recent years altered all the relations of India with the outer world, and have vitally changed the conditions of internal government as compared with those prevailing even as late as the Mutiny. The first of these facts was the opening of the Suez Canal, and the second was the construction, and as regards main lines the virtual completion, of the Indian railway system. Formerly shipping came round the Cape of Good Hope, and it was as easy to steer a course for Calcutta as for Bombay. To-day only bulky cargo is taken from Suez and Aden round the southern point of India through the Bay of Bengal to Calcutta. The fast mail boats run to Bombay, and thence the railways diverge south-eastward, north-eastward, and northward to all the frontiers of the Empire. Only the Burmese railways remain for the present a detached system. But in regard to tonnage of traffic Calcutta is still the first port of India, for the country which lies in rear of it—Bengal, Bihār, and the United Provinces—contains more than a hundred million people.

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From Bombay inland runs the Great Indian Peninsula Railway. The line branches a short distance from the coast, striking on the one hand south-eastward in the direction of Madras, and on the other hand north-eastward in the direction of Allahābād on the East Indian Railway. Each week, a few hours after the arrival of the mail steamer at Bombay, three express trains leave the Victoria Station of that city. One of them is bound south-eastward for Madras. The second runs north-eastward to Allahābād, and then on to Howrah for Calcutta. The third also runs north-eastward, but diverges northward from the Calcutta route to Agra and Delhi. When the Government of India is at Simla the last mentioned train continues beyond Delhi to the foot of the mountains. The time taken to Madras is twenty-six hours, to Calcutta thirty-six hours, and to Delhi twenty-seven hours. Recently a more direct line has been made from Bombay to Calcutta which does not pass through Allahābād, but through Nāgpur. It traverses a hilly country, much forested and relatively thinly peopled, in the upper basins of the Godāvari and Mahānadī rivers.

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The two lines of the Great India Peninsula system approach one another from Allahābād and from Madras at an angle. They are carried separately down the steep mountain edge of the Deccan Plateau by two passes, the Thalghāt and the Borghāt, which have put the skill of engineers to the test. The junction is in the narrow coastal plain at the foot of the mountains. Thence the rails pass by a bridge over a sea strait into Salsette Island, and by a second bridge over a second strait into Bombay Island.

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The island of Bombay is about twelve miles long from north to south. At its southern end it projects into the southward Colāba Point and the south-westward Malabar Point, between which, facing the open sea, is Back Bay. The harbour, set with hilly islets, lies between Bombay and the mainland, the entry being from the south round Colāba Point. Bombay is now a very fine city, but like the other great seaports of India, it is new—as time goes in the immemorial East. Calcutta was already great when Bombay was but a small place, for a riverway extends through densely peopled plains for a thousand miles inland from Calcutta, whereas the horizon of Bombay is barred beyond the harbour by the mountain face of the Western Ghāts. The real greatness of Bombay came only with the opening of the Suez Canal, and of the railway lines up the Borghāt and the Thalghāt.

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The train works up the Ghāts from Bombay through thick forests, and if it be the rainy season past rushing waterfalls, until it surmounts the brink top and comes out on to the plain of the Deccan table-land in the relative drought of the upper climate. The Western Deccan in rear of Bombay constitutes the Marāthā country. The Marāthās are the southernmost of the peoples of Indo-European speech in India. Their homeland on the plateau, round the city of Poona, now forms the main portion of the Province of Bombay. The landscape of the plateau lies widely open, studded here and there with table-topped mountains, not unlike the kopjes of South Africa. These steep-sided isolated mountain blocks have often served as strongholds in warfare.

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South-eastward of Poona, but still on the plateau country, is Hyderābād, the largest native state in India. It is ruled under British suzerainty by the Nizām. The majority of the Nizām's subjects speak Telegu and are of Hindu faith, but the Nizām is a Muhammadan. Near his capital, Hyderābād, is Golconda Fort, rising above the open plateau with flat top and cliff sides. The name of Golconda has become proverbial for immensity of wealth. Formerly it was the Indian centre of diamond cutting and polishing.

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The wide Deccan Plateau is in most parts of no great fertility. Over large areas it is fitted rather for the pasture of horses and cattle than for the plough. Agriculture is best in the river valleys. But there is one large district lying on the plateau top east of Bombay, and on the hill tops north and south of the Narbadā valley which is of a most singular fertility. The usually granitic and schistose rocks of the plateau have here been overlaid by great sheets of basaltic lava. Detached portions of these lava beds form the table tops of most of the kopje-like hills. The lava disintegrates into a tenacious black soil, which does not fall into dust during the dry season, but cracks into great blocks which remain moist. As the dry season advances these blocks shrink, and the cracks grow broader, so that finally it is dangerous for a horse to gallop over the plain, lest his hoof should be caught in one of these fissures.

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This remarkable earth is known as the Black Cotton Soil. The cotton seeds are sown after the rains, and as the young plant grows a clod of earth forms round its roots which is separated from the next similar clod by cracks. Wheat is grown on this soil in the same manner, being sown after the rainy season and reaped in the beginning of the hot season, so that from beginning to end the crop is produced without exposure to rain, being drawn up by the brilliant sunshine, and fed at the root by the moisture preserved in the heavy soil.

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Thus in the part of India which lies immediately east, north-east, and north of Bombay the lowlands and the uplands are alike fertile—the lowlands round Ahmadābād and Baroda, and in the valleys of the Narbadā and Tāpti rivers, because of their alluvial soil, and the uplands round Poona and Indore because they are clothed with the volcanic cotton soil.

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The east coast of India, where it trends north-eastward from the mouths of the Godāvari river to those of the Mahānadī, is backed by great hill and forest districts, tenanted by big game and by uncivilised tribes of men. The Eastern Ghāts are here higher than elsewhere, and they approach near to the coast, so that their foot plain affords only a relatively narrow selvage of populated country. Through this coastal plain the railway is carried from Calcutta to Madras.

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The reason for the primitive character of this part of the country, and of many of the districts which extend northward through the hills almost to the valley of the Son, is to be found in the conditions of soil and climate. There have been no volcanic outpourings on the gneissic and granitic rocks hereabouts, and the summer cyclones from the Bay of Bengal strike most frequently upon this coast and travel inland in a north-westerly direction. Some of the Gond tribes of the forests, who may perhaps be described as the aborigines of India, still speak tongues which appear to be older than Dravidian. In the more fertile parts of the upper Mahānadī and Godāvari basins are comprised the Central Provinces of the direct British Raj, whose capital is at Nāgpur. The Central Provinces have an area comparable with that of Italy, though their population is but one-third the Italian population. They must not be confused with the Central Indian Agency.

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We return to the west coast. The Bombay and Baroda railway runs out of Bombay northward and does not ascend the Ghāts, but follows the coastal plain across the lower Tāpti and Narbadā rivers to Baroda, and thence on, across the alluvial flats of the Mahī and neighbouring small rivers, to Ahmadābād. The Gaikwār of Baroda governs a small but very rich and populous lowland. His people speak Gujarātī, though the Gaikwār is a Marāthā, like Sindhia and Holkar. His territories are so mixed with those of the Bombay Presidency that the map of the plains round Ahmadābād and Baroda city is like that part of Scotland which is labelled Ross and Cromarty. Ahmadābād was once the most important Muhammadan city of Western India, and contains many fine architectural monuments, surpassed only by those of the great Mughal capitals, Delhi and Agra.

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Westward of the alluvial plains of Gujarāt, and beyond the Gulf of Cambay, is the peninsula of Kāthiāwār, a low plateau, lower considerably than the Deccan, but clothed in part with similar sheets of fertile volcanic soil. Baroda has territory in Kāthiāwār, as has also the Presidency of Bombay, but in addition there are a multitude of petty chieftainships. North of Kāthiāwār is another smaller hill district, constituting the island of Cutch. The Rann of Cutch, a marshy area communicating with the sea, separates the island from the mainland. Apart from Travancore and Cochin in the far south, Kāthiāwār and Cutch are the only part of India where Feudal States come down to the coast. There are a few diminutive coastal settlements belonging to the French and Portuguese governments, but these are too insignificant to break the general rule that the shores of India are directly controlled by the British Raj. The largest of the foreign European settlements is at Goa on the west coast south of Bombay. Goa has a fine harbour but the Ghāts block the roads inland.

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We have now completed the itinerary of the inner parts of India. What remains to be described is the north-western land of passage where India merges with Irān and Turān—Persia and Turkestān. The Himālayan barrier, and the desert plateau of Tibet in rear of it, so shield the Indian world from the north and north-east that the medieval Buddhist pilgrims from China to Gayā were in the habit of travelling westward by the desert routes north of Tibet as far as the river Oxus, and then southward over the Hindu Kush. Thus they came into India from the north-west, having circumvented Tibet rather than cross it. Great mountain ranges articulate with the Himālayas at their eastern end, and extend into the roots of the peninsula of Further India. Thus the direct way from China into India by the east is obstructed. Today as we have seen the railway systems of Burma and India are still separate.

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The Cambridge History of India, Vol. I: Ancient India v1.c15: Corrigenda

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